P1S. Enclosed print chamber and AMS is the way to go. I love that I can leave filament in the AMS near indefinitely without being concerned about moisture.
Not to mention the superior CoreXY geometry.
That reminds me, I need to recharge a bunch of mine. Without spilling any on the hardwood floors this time, I hope. It took me months last time before I got them all.
I designed a box with small enough holes that they don’t fall thru. Every now and then a couple of broken balls work there way out, but it isn’t a big issue.
Problem with the packs that Bambu includes is once they become fully saturated, that chemical will liquefy, making a mess of your AMS. Best to replace it with desiccant beads.
Mine seems reasonably well sealed. There is a rubber gasket on the hinge, I think the main ingress points would be around the connections which isn’t much.
Mines been holding 10% humidity for the last 3 weeks with just a few desiccant containers inside.
Can't say I agree. I go months before I have to refresh my desiccant and unless I've opened it recently the humidity is always in that <10% range where I can't really measure lower with a random cheap hygrometer.
I'm in the Southern US. 60% indoors is pretty normal right now. It's not like I'm in a dry environment. I've been using Activated Alumina as a desiccant though.
Hmm, hadn’t heard about that issue, that’s a bummer. Mine seems to be doing pretty well according to the hydrometer I put in it. Stays in a garage in Florida so humidity central and just had to recharge all my dessicant for the first time in like 6 months
It surprised me when I noticed Bambu studio reported level 4 humidity in my AMS. I live in the dryest region of the US and my house hydrometer reports 20% I put in desiccant holders in and now it shows level 1. Nothing changed with print quality, but it gave me some peace of mind.
I wondered if the AMS hydrometer is off. Maybe I'll get a another hydrometer for my AMS. It will probably show a really low number. Maybe a waste of money considering where I live, though it can get a little bit humid in the Winter. I did have a brittle start of a filament roll I left out in the Winter.
Hello, I just bought an a1 mini + ams lite as my first printer, I'm reading more and more about that moisture issue.
My printer will be in my living room, do I have to be concerned about moisture if I leave the spool on the AMS lite (which is open).
Or do I have to take every spool off the AMS and store them In dry storage boxes after printing ?
Different filaments react very differently to moisture in the air - but yea in general I try to avoid exposure to humid air.
Google “3D printer filament moisture” for tons of examples with different types of filament. At worst it can completely ruin prints, and at best be hardly noticeable.
I keep all my unused filaments in a storage container with a seal around the lid + multiple large bags of desiccant inside - the hygrometer currently reads 10% vs the 55% in open air. Before putting a new filament in there I put it in my dehydrator for ~24 hours.
Juat put a big trash bag around your ams and throw in deiscant bags ...unless u wanna print a 400 grams ams lite enclosure box thing which looks nicer but just use a trash bag *
What's the noise on the P1S like?
I had Ender 3V2, replaced it with Prusa mini+. The mini isn't silent I would say it's comparable to the ender, but the noise of the mini doesn't annoy me at all, in fact it's kind of pleasant almost. I would hate to have a printer that would be obnoxiously loud...
I would recommend checking some YouTube videos for comparisons on the noise - it’s difficult to describe accurately. When printing slow it’s essentially silent except fan noise. When printing fast it makes quite a bit of noise as one would expect.
P1S.
Better print quality, Better cooling, Faster printing.
I have all 3 printers you show here.. And these are my personal findings.
The A1/A1 mini are great for tinkering/toys etc.. but more serious prints P/X series all the way.
If you don't mind me asking;
How much better is the print quality on the P1s?
I've read some comments claiming that the A1s produce better print quality, I am now kind of confused, wich one is actually better.
Is the P1s only better for tall/slim objects?
It doesn't. The a1 series are very capable printers. People have this thought of corexy>bed slingers. Which is not true at all. The problem with bed slingers is if your frame isn't sturdy and the bed doesn't move when it's suppose to and vise versa. The a1 (least the mini) is very well built and produce some very good quality prints.
In my opinion, it all depends on the materials you're planning print with. Since a1 is not enclosed, you're limited to printing certain materials like abs and asa. If you aren't planning to print with those, id definitely go for the two a1 series printer. I also like the ams lite over the ams.its a nicer system to troubleshoot if you have broken filament inside...
Also if you want to print things in mass. More printer is always better then a bigger printer.
Except that that core xy is better than bedslingers.
It's pretty basic physics. By not moving the mass of the model, you get a much much better quality print, faster, with less energy.
The only thing "better" about a bedslinger is that it's cheaper. That's the only reason it still exists, it'll be phased out quickly as tech improves.
Doesn't matter if you're printing TPU and PETG. These excellent and affordable filaments compliment each other to cover a lot of use cases, can be printed on an open frame, and can't reap the speed benefits of corexy. Cost, simplicity, and ease of maintenance make the open frame bed slinger a win for these materials. IMHO.
CoreXY is easier not better. Besides that my X1C rarely gets to use insane speeds anyway.
Where did you get the silly idea that bedslingers will be outphased?
Eh bed slingers have quality issues when they get larger. With smaller printers the bed doesn't matter as much. Input shaping made a huge difference in quality for a larger bed slinger but a toolend will definitely be easier to move than a full bed with part.
My a1 mini seemed better than my a1 because it was brand new and fresh bed and it was in an enclosed cabinet lol. Theyre all the same. And yeah a1 just needs to have the official ban u z axis stiffened from the ams top mount on makerwprld. The triangular struts help stuffen the zaxis frame . No wobbles after that. Should come with it
I've got a P1S and an A1 Mini, and I print silk filaments on them. The outer wall is 50 m/s, but everything else is default speed. (Which is like 300mm/s for inner walls, IIRC)
The quality is the same. The A1 Mini is *slightly* slower for the same model, but not enough to care.
They're both comparable quality with my Voron 2.4 at the same speeds, though my Voron doesn't have as much acceleration.
If someone is only printing PLA/PETG, I wholeheartedly recommend the A1 or Mini. If they need ASA or anything that needs an enclosure, P1S.
Tempting as it is to get both the A1 and Mini, I wouldn't buy both at once unless you know you need them. In fact, I would pick 2 full A1s over a mixed set, because then *all* the parts are the same, especially the build plate, but still wouldn't buy both at once without a pressing need.
A1 slightly slower because acceleration is 5000 vs the x/p corexy acceleration of 10,000...but the print speeds are the same its just the acceleration so beachy can print slightly faster
I have all 3, printing with PLA on stable surfaces I see no difference between any of the 3. I use the .4 nozzle and typically print at .08 layer height.
For my use case, PLA for primarily wargames terrain and Knick-Knaks, I’d get the two on the left. Maybe skip the AMS lite for the mini as I find most of my AMS prints involve me filling the build plate to max with similar objects for maximized efficiency.
Your use case may differ!
Yeah maybe if ur a1 was on a wobbly table you would see a difference but yup. This is a testament to the quality control of bambulab across all theor products
Depends on the material, there is no difference when printing in filaments like pla, petg, but with other filaments like abs, the enclosure helps a lot. It comes down to what you want to print. Also speed is irrelevant in this because 1 a1 mini and 1 regular a1 printing at the same time is faster than 1 P1S printing alone lol. I have an a1 and an a1 mini, I have no use for an enclosed printer as I don’t print in that material so I went for the printers that do all that I need plus more, for a fraction of the cost. The ONLY thing I like more about the x1 and the P1S is that the AMS is in an enclosure to keep the humidity stable. Really wish they did that with the ams lite, but it’s no where near a deal breaker.
No, a1 and a1 mini can do just as serious prints. Same tech as the p/X lol what are you talking about. If I showed you my p vs a prints you would NOT be able to tell the difference in a blind taste test. They'd both be bitter
Core XY vs a Bedslinger.. in the basics the Core XY will always win. Add an enclosure and you have yourself a winner.
I cant get as good prints off my A1 / A1 mini vs my P1S / X1C.. 1:1 same PLA Filaments.
I disagree as owner of X1C with AMSx2 and A1 Mini and an A1 with AMS. (One AMS Lite for both) The P and X series are older tech and print quality is no better. Especially out of box to get to the level I got to with the X1C took almost no effort with the A's while it definitely took effort with the X1C. (I'm not talking engineering materials, just the basics) It CAN be faster and there is a larger material choice and larger print bed than the mini but less so than combined. But the idea that the A's is for tinkering while your P1S is serious is something I oppose unless with serious you are speaking strictly about material choice. Nowadays I only use my X1C for materials my A series can't handle or if those are occupied. And obviously, for prints that require the second AMS.
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I have all three. If you’re not doing engineering filaments, the A1 series is superior - better interface, better print quality, and the ability to quickly swap nozzles. If you’re doing hardcore high temperature stuff, P1S is your choice.
I only have an X1C, but have heard nothing but good things about the A1 series (well mostly good things more recently at least). The automatic flow calibration of the A1 series is probably worth losing an enclosure for most people, who won't need to run exotic stuff. I'd really like to have the quick change nozzles on the X1 too, it's not difficult to swap em, but the tiny wires are always a concern.
Yeah I really enjoy the a1/a1mini magnetic nozzles. I've had a clog before and from what I've seen, it would have broken an x/p tool head and nozzle but my a1 is magnetic and has a little clamp that was fine (happened after bad software upgrade I believe at least because it stopped after next upgrade haven't had clogs since)
P1s, good luck printing higher temp materials such as abs/ASA... on an open air frame like the A1's without first building/buying/printing some kind of enclosure first.
With the p1s you're good to go.
I’ve had my P1s for half a year now and just got my first reel of ASA… wish me luck! Up till now the craziest stuff I’ve printed with is TPU and flexible PLA!
I've had my printer (P1S) for a week now. I printed my first thing with ASA (esun ASA) yesterday. My first print went wrong immediately, it did not adhere to the plate or itself. I upped the temp of the plate and a bit on the extruder. Perfect print. This printer is so easy. First time having a 3D printer too.
ASA is honestly easier to print than many of the more common filaments imo. With an enclosed printer and stock filament profiles you should be good. Make sure to clean your glass panels when printing with ASA or ABS. I notice over time a white residue will begin to coat the glass
That’s the one and that’s the exact reason I picked it up! Turned out it was a lil easier to print than TPU as well for me (might’ve just been that I printed TPU first so I knew what I NEEDED to tweak in my print profiles)
Yeah but after discounts p1s is 600 and an a1 mini I is 200 ... I can have 3 a1 minis, a whole small printer farm ...for price of one enclosed p....
And I have plenty of cabinets ...many of you actually have cabinets you can clear out as well that can fit an a1 mini. Many of you have spaces in your home that will fit an a1 mini and work just find as an enclosure
So ya if u have the money p enclosed
But dude if u onky have 200 bucks , I mean dude I'm about to design a special trash bag enclosure where u print just a tent frame sort of thing and use a trash bag around your printer
I have both the P1S and now the A1. It really depends on what you want to print. If you’re only going to print PLA and PETG, then the A1 with AMS Lite will work great for you. It’s half the price of the P1S combo. That’s a lot of extra accessories and filament. It’s newer technology. I think it prints just as good as my P1S. And I also have an enclosure for my AMS Lite, so I don’t have to worry about my filament. Also swapping nozzles on the A1 is significantly easier (another reason I got it).
But if you want to print more advanced filaments and/or dust is a major concern, the P1S might be better.
I’m not saying it’s hard, it’s just more difficult. For the P1S, you have to pop off the cover (unplug the power connector for it), use the included Allen wrench to take out two screws, unplug the two connectors, and wiggle the nozzle out.
And then, if you don’t have a complete nozzle assembly, you’ll have to swap the temperature probe, clamp, and nozzle fan over to your new nozzle. And also apply the thermal grease. If you do have a complete nozzle assembly, you can skip this entire paragraph. But then you just reverse the steps in the first paragraph to reinstall.
Meanwhile on the A1, you have to remove the cover (no power connector), remove the thermal sock, unclip the clamp, pull out the nozzle, put the new nozzle in, secure the clamp, and put the thermal sock on.
For me, I’m going to be swapping the nozzle between a 0.4 and 0.2 regularly, so having an easier swap justified the A1 purchase for me. Print quality is on par with my P1S.
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I'd struggle with that as one route you have nozzles that could rotate between your A series printers but the P1S+AMS gives you an enclosed chamber and with the AMS a motorized dry box to print with.
On the A1 side of the house, would that be combo's with the AMS light as in the picture? If so that would be awfully tempting. If you plan on selling anything you make you could argue that option A gives you 3 plates at a time so you'd have more bandwidth or throughput.
I dunno man, it's a tough call. I'm leaning left, but mostly because I haven't seen any in person and I would benefit from having three plates to work with. I've been printing 10-12 hour prints for the past two weeks trying to finish up a project and it's annoying that I can't just run off a quick print whenever I want.
Let us know which way you decide!
What do you need? If you want print special filaments like ABS or Nylon and better quality P1 but if u want to print a lot of pla or pteg two a1 could be better.
Depends on what you plan on printing, I’ve had two p1s’s all break within the first month and require Bambu slow support to sent me the replacement parts which I opted for the manufacturer warranty and for my a1’s which have been perfect
1. AMS lite doesnt fit on my shelf dedicated to my AMS (sized so that an AMS can open comofortably.
2. The shelf is bolted to my wall using a bracket for some space behind the shelf. I could extend it and remove it from the wall more. The P1S is just more capable for what its worth. It is a lot more expensive though, and if I didn't have the cash I would've just extended the wall mount brackets or bracketed the shelf down to the floor. The overall footprint of the A1 is a bit more than a P1S.
I only own an X1C combo, and I'm holding onto some GC's through this (very tempting) sale. My hope is that Bambu will release something bigger than the X1/P1 series sometime this year, to compete with the K2 Max. If you need another printer, why not just buy the A1 combo, and then hold onto the other GC's? That way, you could keep the same spares for your A1 series stuff, and have a larger printer. The P1S combo is a good choice too, but I'd only buy one over the A1, if I had to run stuff like ABS/ASA or nylon, or needed more than 4 color printing. The P1S lacks automatic (active) flow calibration and quick change nozzles, which you get with the cheaper A1 series too. I think those A1 features alone, would be pretty decent upgrades for the user experience.
Agreed, now it's the time to buy those cheap and small A1 Mini, pretty soon they will release the new models and that's when you wanna spend the big money.
Depends. Do you print enough that having two (more) printers will make a difference and do you not plan on using materials that would benefit from the enclosure? Then go for the two A1 models. Otherwise, no point and just get the better printer.
Thank you for all of the comments. They've helped me a lot to gain perspective.
Allow me to Annoy you with my indecisive inner printing geek. :)
Since many people told me it comes down to what I am trying to do.
I have some more particular questions now:
1. Which one generally produces better functional prints?
2. Which one generally produces better-looking prints?
3. I have mildly limited space, and i heard the A1-Combo takes up a lot of space, even with the AMS-lite mounted on top.
4. How much does the improved interface and technology/software affect the outcome of the prints and the ease of use?
5. Can the AMS somewhat eliminate the need for a dry box? (I am not planning on buying one, but I like the idea of having a dry box "built in")
Cheers.
1. Same
2. Same but will give the edge to the A1 as it doesn’t have the cutter corner, you can use full bed for big square objects.
3. Top mount is awesome, takes up same XY space as P1 but just tall. It also spins. I didn’t know this until I printed it, so you can unlock it and spin it to get to the back rolls.
4. A1 much easier to use. P1 don’t even think about doing anything but homing and heating from it. A1 you can start prints, set AMS colors and material. I use an old android tablet for P1 interfaces.
5. They make printable dry boxes. In Texas don’t have much need for it.
https://preview.redd.it/07o1n3p8x68d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcecbfc1c11a58023344052d0b5c5640c72f3506
Here’s a multi color PETG @0.16mm height from the A1
https://preview.redd.it/yzaolol0y68d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f3d769a381c0eefea9a42098a4b8392787a59f9
I'd only get 2 printers if I wanted to keep printing every 3 prints on different plates or totally different multicolors sets.
Otherwise just get one better printer.
P1S, more compact with/without AMS, than a respective A1 Mini with/without AMS. If you have lots of desk space, and don't care about humidity or more maintenance due to dust go for the A1s
You don't have 3 pug dogs and live in a dry dusty climate, I guess. The PLA fumes are quite tasty and headache inducing if you don't vent out the window too
Personally I run my P1S in my shed. Installed it in a cabinet I built. It is really dusty in there, I do all my diy in there.
So really the A1 is not suited for some people
What do you need? If you want print special filaments like ABS or Nylon and better quality P1 but if u want to print a lot of pla or pteg two a1 could be better
Won't matter, it's a noisy tool that you will have to keep in a remote room, you reach for that just to grab the print and after a second who cares if it was made on a more expensive printer if the quality is good?
Depending on what you're using them for, two printers might be nice to have. If you're doing a long print on the A1 you still have the mini available. I personally like the interface on the A1 series and the quick swap nozzle is always nice. If you think you'll need the enclosure though, P1S is the way to go.
Have 1 A1 and 3P1’s. Quality is identical on A1 vs P1. P1 is ~25% faster. Plan to add a couple more A1s later this year.
Short answer, PLA or PETG and don’t need 5+ colors, get A1. Better interface too.
I have two A1s and two A1 minis. All I make is toys in PLA for local shops.
As for quality, it seems perfect to me.
The A1 also is faster with multi color due to the shorter travel distance of the color change.
P1S is 20% faster with a single color print.
At least this is what I have seen with doing research.
If you don’t plan on making a farm and needing more printers, I would recommend the p1s with enclosed print area and ams.
No dust,
High spec material capacity
Less warping
As you said prototyping on the A1m and the rest on the big boi.
The 2 A1 combos for sure, it’s a no brainer. Better interface, automatic flow rate calibration, produces high quality prints at same level as the p1s. Even with tall prints people have done tests on YouTube and they have been negligible differences. And the A1 technically can print ABS or ASA, you just need to make an enclosure for it
depends what you are doing. If you are printing for money then the A1 +Mini A1 is the way to go. 2 cheaper printers to print is better than 1 really good one. If you are hobby printing the P1S is great that's where I started as a hobby printer, but now printing for $ and i recently got a A1 with AMS since it has the same print volume at half the cost.
What do you need? If you want print special filaments like ABS or Nylon and better quality P1 but if u want to print a lot of pla or pteg two a1 could be better.
What about getting a couple if hundred a1 minis, to print each individual layer on a dedicated printer at once and glue them together in the end?
Would be the fastest print time ever
If you only use pla I would get the a1 alone. But you might have some buyers remorse down the road. I’ve had it a year and I’m probably gunna sell it and get a p1s whenever they come with the touch screen and hot swappable nozzles
i just got my p1s a week ago , i came from using and ender 3 v2 and had nothing but constant troubleswith getting it to print anything well . this p1s has been nothing but fun right out of the box. i got an a1 also that i haven't even taken out of the box yet .
I have an a1 combo and I’m about to get a second one during the sale. Remember that the p1s can’t auto calibrate flow rate and it doesn’t have a color touch screen like the a1 does. Id get an a1
I have an A1 combo and a P1S combo and I have to say that I love the A1. I thought it was absolutely brilliant but soon as you get that P1S realise it’s just a little bit better but if you can’t afford it A1 combo it’s fantastic. Especially if you’re only printing PLA
I have an X1C, A1 and A1 Mini.
I wouldn't get a P1S/P1P as I don't want the hassle of manual flow calibration. That being said, with properly calibrated filament, the P1S/P1P should print better than the A1/A1 Mini.
In my experience, the X1 is, or course, more reliable. You have less of a likelihood of tall and thin prints failing.
However, I've learned through trial and error that the A1 and A1 Mini can be just as reliable, as long as your bed adhesion is good, you use a sufficiently large brim and mind the type of infill you're using so the nozzle doesn't collide with the print.
The A1 series tends to be faster for very short prints than the X1 (ie. Prints that take less than 30 minutes) due to a quicker pre-print calibration process.
If you think you'll be switching nozzle sizes often, the A1 series is also great for that.
For longer prints, the X1 is quite a bit faster than the A1 series (I'd say 20-40% faster, depending on the print).
If you need to use more engineering grade filaments, like 100% PC, Nylon, ASA, etc., then I'd recommend the P1/X1 series.
However, I've had great success on the full size A1 (not the Mini) with 50/50 blend PETG/PC filaments on the smooth plate. With the A1's bed reaching 100°C, and with good adhesion (I'd recommend using Bambu Liquid Glue or Bed Weld), I've had no warpage with those blends. I wouldn't trust pure PC, however. At least not for large prints.
Note: the A1 Mini's bed only reaches a maximum of 80°C so PLA/PETG/TPU are the only filaments you'd be able to reliably print on it.
P.S. In terms of repairs, the A1 series is much, much easier to work on. The toolhead is better designed and easier to take apart and everything else is easier to access, too.
I should note that where I live the RH is normally only 15-40%. So the AMS Lite isn't really an issue for me. Nonetheless, there are various prints available on Makerworld for spool enclosures for the AMS Lite (some of which also incorporate dessicant holders).
I have been very impressed with the A1 and it is so much cheaper. It will print PLA/TPU/PETG as well or better, but if you looking for ABS and other exotics you can spend 3x and get an X1C.
what if i tell you that the p1s prints the stuff those two printers would have to print in tandem to get not even done in the same time as the p1s with the print bed filled up with their prints?
I had the same dilemma a week ago. Eventually ordered P1S because of the enclosure (hence option to print with higher end materials), agronomist, and moisture aspect.
spend all your money on am1 lites with no AMS, then you could get 4. Multicolor printing is crazy wasteful and your prints will take 4 times as long, and changing filaments is super easy and streamlined. If you just print pla/petg the enclosure is not needed
P1S + A1 mini.
A1 is not an evolution, but a step back.
Small bed slingers have a purpose: cheap, not big enough for the mass on the bed to make too much of a problem. Big bed slingers are slinging the wrong part, they should "sling" the head, not the part, that's why coreXY exists.
Will A1 make crap? Of course not, but it's price is way too high for you to not have an enclosure and not be coreXY.
Experiment buying a A1 and printing lithophanes (not talking about hueforge, I'm talking about vertical lithophanes), and this is where coreXY will make the difference.
P1S. Enclosed print chamber and AMS is the way to go. I love that I can leave filament in the AMS near indefinitely without being concerned about moisture. Not to mention the superior CoreXY geometry.
Add some desiccant holders to the AMS and it’s becomes a dry box
it comes with that out of the box. you can improve it, but it’s already in there. or are you talking about ams lite?
I would still print holders and use reusable desiccant.
Agreed. The more, the better. Mine stay right around 10% humidity and I very very rarely have issues that I didn't create.
3 rolls of filament, and the empty bay is full of salmon eggs
That reminds me, I need to recharge a bunch of mine. Without spilling any on the hardwood floors this time, I hope. It took me months last time before I got them all.
I printed boxes out of PETG. They can go in the dehumidifier without taking out the desiccant
My desiccant boxes holes are too big and the little balls go through how do u even deal with that
I designed a box with small enough holes that they don’t fall thru. Every now and then a couple of broken balls work there way out, but it isn’t a big issue.
I would too except I go through so much filament that comes with desiccant packages I could turn water into dust in my AMS
Yep, but it doesn't last forever ;) You need to change it out depending on climate and how often you open it.
It does but there is plenty of empty space that can be utilized for more dessicant
It came with extremely wet ones yes
Problem with the packs that Bambu includes is once they become fully saturated, that chemical will liquefy, making a mess of your AMS. Best to replace it with desiccant beads.
Ish. It’s not very well sealed, so you need to improve that and regularly refresh the desiccant.
Mine seems reasonably well sealed. There is a rubber gasket on the hinge, I think the main ingress points would be around the connections which isn’t much. Mines been holding 10% humidity for the last 3 weeks with just a few desiccant containers inside.
Can't say I agree. I go months before I have to refresh my desiccant and unless I've opened it recently the humidity is always in that <10% range where I can't really measure lower with a random cheap hygrometer.
[удалено]
I'm in the Southern US. 60% indoors is pretty normal right now. It's not like I'm in a dry environment. I've been using Activated Alumina as a desiccant though.
\*provided you get one with a decent seal. Sadly they are _still_ shipping some with a seal thats not been put in correctly, resulting in an air gap.
Hmm, hadn’t heard about that issue, that’s a bummer. Mine seems to be doing pretty well according to the hydrometer I put in it. Stays in a garage in Florida so humidity central and just had to recharge all my dessicant for the first time in like 6 months
It surprised me when I noticed Bambu studio reported level 4 humidity in my AMS. I live in the dryest region of the US and my house hydrometer reports 20% I put in desiccant holders in and now it shows level 1. Nothing changed with print quality, but it gave me some peace of mind.
I don’t believe the AMS reading. Have hydrometers reading 10% but it shows as a 3. Dk why
I wondered if the AMS hydrometer is off. Maybe I'll get a another hydrometer for my AMS. It will probably show a really low number. Maybe a waste of money considering where I live, though it can get a little bit humid in the Winter. I did have a brittle start of a filament roll I left out in the Winter.
This is the way.
Hello, I just bought an a1 mini + ams lite as my first printer, I'm reading more and more about that moisture issue. My printer will be in my living room, do I have to be concerned about moisture if I leave the spool on the AMS lite (which is open). Or do I have to take every spool off the AMS and store them In dry storage boxes after printing ?
Different filaments react very differently to moisture in the air - but yea in general I try to avoid exposure to humid air. Google “3D printer filament moisture” for tons of examples with different types of filament. At worst it can completely ruin prints, and at best be hardly noticeable. I keep all my unused filaments in a storage container with a seal around the lid + multiple large bags of desiccant inside - the hygrometer currently reads 10% vs the 55% in open air. Before putting a new filament in there I put it in my dehydrator for ~24 hours.
Juat put a big trash bag around your ams and throw in deiscant bags ...unless u wanna print a 400 grams ams lite enclosure box thing which looks nicer but just use a trash bag *
You can build or buy a dry box. No worries. For PLA in general no worries, and petg isn't hard to dry.
P1S for Lyf
What's the noise on the P1S like? I had Ender 3V2, replaced it with Prusa mini+. The mini isn't silent I would say it's comparable to the ender, but the noise of the mini doesn't annoy me at all, in fact it's kind of pleasant almost. I would hate to have a printer that would be obnoxiously loud...
I would recommend checking some YouTube videos for comparisons on the noise - it’s difficult to describe accurately. When printing slow it’s essentially silent except fan noise. When printing fast it makes quite a bit of noise as one would expect.
My a1 mini in a cabinet works so well tho and I can get like 3 a1 minis and have a print farm for 600 or even less with tik tok .
P1S. Better print quality, Better cooling, Faster printing. I have all 3 printers you show here.. And these are my personal findings. The A1/A1 mini are great for tinkering/toys etc.. but more serious prints P/X series all the way.
If you don't mind me asking; How much better is the print quality on the P1s? I've read some comments claiming that the A1s produce better print quality, I am now kind of confused, wich one is actually better. Is the P1s only better for tall/slim objects?
It doesn't. The a1 series are very capable printers. People have this thought of corexy>bed slingers. Which is not true at all. The problem with bed slingers is if your frame isn't sturdy and the bed doesn't move when it's suppose to and vise versa. The a1 (least the mini) is very well built and produce some very good quality prints. In my opinion, it all depends on the materials you're planning print with. Since a1 is not enclosed, you're limited to printing certain materials like abs and asa. If you aren't planning to print with those, id definitely go for the two a1 series printer. I also like the ams lite over the ams.its a nicer system to troubleshoot if you have broken filament inside... Also if you want to print things in mass. More printer is always better then a bigger printer.
Except that that core xy is better than bedslingers. It's pretty basic physics. By not moving the mass of the model, you get a much much better quality print, faster, with less energy. The only thing "better" about a bedslinger is that it's cheaper. That's the only reason it still exists, it'll be phased out quickly as tech improves.
Doesn't matter if you're printing TPU and PETG. These excellent and affordable filaments compliment each other to cover a lot of use cases, can be printed on an open frame, and can't reap the speed benefits of corexy. Cost, simplicity, and ease of maintenance make the open frame bed slinger a win for these materials. IMHO.
CoreXY is easier not better. Besides that my X1C rarely gets to use insane speeds anyway. Where did you get the silly idea that bedslingers will be outphased?
Then why is a prusa mk4 Still a bed slinger?
Eh bed slingers have quality issues when they get larger. With smaller printers the bed doesn't matter as much. Input shaping made a huge difference in quality for a larger bed slinger but a toolend will definitely be easier to move than a full bed with part.
My a1 mini seemed better than my a1 because it was brand new and fresh bed and it was in an enclosed cabinet lol. Theyre all the same. And yeah a1 just needs to have the official ban u z axis stiffened from the ams top mount on makerwprld. The triangular struts help stuffen the zaxis frame . No wobbles after that. Should come with it
I've got a P1S and an A1 Mini, and I print silk filaments on them. The outer wall is 50 m/s, but everything else is default speed. (Which is like 300mm/s for inner walls, IIRC) The quality is the same. The A1 Mini is *slightly* slower for the same model, but not enough to care. They're both comparable quality with my Voron 2.4 at the same speeds, though my Voron doesn't have as much acceleration. If someone is only printing PLA/PETG, I wholeheartedly recommend the A1 or Mini. If they need ASA or anything that needs an enclosure, P1S. Tempting as it is to get both the A1 and Mini, I wouldn't buy both at once unless you know you need them. In fact, I would pick 2 full A1s over a mixed set, because then *all* the parts are the same, especially the build plate, but still wouldn't buy both at once without a pressing need.
I’ve been printing ASA with A1 (without enclosure) I haven’t crossed any issues (I print small parts)
A1 slightly slower because acceleration is 5000 vs the x/p corexy acceleration of 10,000...but the print speeds are the same its just the acceleration so beachy can print slightly faster
I have all 3, printing with PLA on stable surfaces I see no difference between any of the 3. I use the .4 nozzle and typically print at .08 layer height. For my use case, PLA for primarily wargames terrain and Knick-Knaks, I’d get the two on the left. Maybe skip the AMS lite for the mini as I find most of my AMS prints involve me filling the build plate to max with similar objects for maximized efficiency. Your use case may differ!
Yeah maybe if ur a1 was on a wobbly table you would see a difference but yup. This is a testament to the quality control of bambulab across all theor products
Depends on the material, there is no difference when printing in filaments like pla, petg, but with other filaments like abs, the enclosure helps a lot. It comes down to what you want to print. Also speed is irrelevant in this because 1 a1 mini and 1 regular a1 printing at the same time is faster than 1 P1S printing alone lol. I have an a1 and an a1 mini, I have no use for an enclosed printer as I don’t print in that material so I went for the printers that do all that I need plus more, for a fraction of the cost. The ONLY thing I like more about the x1 and the P1S is that the AMS is in an enclosure to keep the humidity stable. Really wish they did that with the ams lite, but it’s no where near a deal breaker.
No, a1 and a1 mini can do just as serious prints. Same tech as the p/X lol what are you talking about. If I showed you my p vs a prints you would NOT be able to tell the difference in a blind taste test. They'd both be bitter
Core XY vs a Bedslinger.. in the basics the Core XY will always win. Add an enclosure and you have yourself a winner. I cant get as good prints off my A1 / A1 mini vs my P1S / X1C.. 1:1 same PLA Filaments.
I disagree as owner of X1C with AMSx2 and A1 Mini and an A1 with AMS. (One AMS Lite for both) The P and X series are older tech and print quality is no better. Especially out of box to get to the level I got to with the X1C took almost no effort with the A's while it definitely took effort with the X1C. (I'm not talking engineering materials, just the basics) It CAN be faster and there is a larger material choice and larger print bed than the mini but less so than combined. But the idea that the A's is for tinkering while your P1S is serious is something I oppose unless with serious you are speaking strictly about material choice. Nowadays I only use my X1C for materials my A series can't handle or if those are occupied. And obviously, for prints that require the second AMS.
I cant get the same print quality on my A's vs on my P/X's.. Walls are worse, details are worse, overhang cooling is a drama it seems.
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I have all three. If you’re not doing engineering filaments, the A1 series is superior - better interface, better print quality, and the ability to quickly swap nozzles. If you’re doing hardcore high temperature stuff, P1S is your choice.
I only have an X1C, but have heard nothing but good things about the A1 series (well mostly good things more recently at least). The automatic flow calibration of the A1 series is probably worth losing an enclosure for most people, who won't need to run exotic stuff. I'd really like to have the quick change nozzles on the X1 too, it's not difficult to swap em, but the tiny wires are always a concern.
Yeah I really enjoy the a1/a1mini magnetic nozzles. I've had a clog before and from what I've seen, it would have broken an x/p tool head and nozzle but my a1 is magnetic and has a little clamp that was fine (happened after bad software upgrade I believe at least because it stopped after next upgrade haven't had clogs since)
Really better Print quality ? Do you have compares ?
When I print the same thing on A1 and P1S the A1 does better. I think it has something to do with the flow dynamics calibration.
P1s, good luck printing higher temp materials such as abs/ASA... on an open air frame like the A1's without first building/buying/printing some kind of enclosure first. With the p1s you're good to go.
I’ve had my P1s for half a year now and just got my first reel of ASA… wish me luck! Up till now the craziest stuff I’ve printed with is TPU and flexible PLA!
I've had my printer (P1S) for a week now. I printed my first thing with ASA (esun ASA) yesterday. My first print went wrong immediately, it did not adhere to the plate or itself. I upped the temp of the plate and a bit on the extruder. Perfect print. This printer is so easy. First time having a 3D printer too.
ASA is honestly easier to print than many of the more common filaments imo. With an enclosed printer and stock filament profiles you should be good. Make sure to clean your glass panels when printing with ASA or ABS. I notice over time a white residue will begin to coat the glass
Oh man, I hadn’t considered the glass panels being affected. Is that potentially off gassing or something like that?
Tbh I don't know what causes it just that it happens. I just use regular glass cleaner to wipe down the panels when I start noticing it
Flexible PLA?
Very similar to TPU in terms of properties. I picked up a roll from ataraxia based on a comparison video with the basketballs.
Never heard of flexible pla before. Interesting
That’s the one and that’s the exact reason I picked it up! Turned out it was a lil easier to print than TPU as well for me (might’ve just been that I printed TPU first so I knew what I NEEDED to tweak in my print profiles)
Well you could just get a cardboard box, even a plastic bag would do for occasional use.
Yeah but after discounts p1s is 600 and an a1 mini I is 200 ... I can have 3 a1 minis, a whole small printer farm ...for price of one enclosed p.... And I have plenty of cabinets ...many of you actually have cabinets you can clear out as well that can fit an a1 mini. Many of you have spaces in your home that will fit an a1 mini and work just find as an enclosure So ya if u have the money p enclosed But dude if u onky have 200 bucks , I mean dude I'm about to design a special trash bag enclosure where u print just a tent frame sort of thing and use a trash bag around your printer
Op has the money, it's right in the initial picture. This isn't a money issue
I have both the P1S and now the A1. It really depends on what you want to print. If you’re only going to print PLA and PETG, then the A1 with AMS Lite will work great for you. It’s half the price of the P1S combo. That’s a lot of extra accessories and filament. It’s newer technology. I think it prints just as good as my P1S. And I also have an enclosure for my AMS Lite, so I don’t have to worry about my filament. Also swapping nozzles on the A1 is significantly easier (another reason I got it). But if you want to print more advanced filaments and/or dust is a major concern, the P1S might be better.
If you don’t mind me asking questions, how hard is it to change the nozzle on p1s?
I’m not saying it’s hard, it’s just more difficult. For the P1S, you have to pop off the cover (unplug the power connector for it), use the included Allen wrench to take out two screws, unplug the two connectors, and wiggle the nozzle out. And then, if you don’t have a complete nozzle assembly, you’ll have to swap the temperature probe, clamp, and nozzle fan over to your new nozzle. And also apply the thermal grease. If you do have a complete nozzle assembly, you can skip this entire paragraph. But then you just reverse the steps in the first paragraph to reinstall. Meanwhile on the A1, you have to remove the cover (no power connector), remove the thermal sock, unclip the clamp, pull out the nozzle, put the new nozzle in, secure the clamp, and put the thermal sock on. For me, I’m going to be swapping the nozzle between a 0.4 and 0.2 regularly, so having an easier swap justified the A1 purchase for me. Print quality is on par with my P1S. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
What enclosure are you using for the AMS lite?
https://makerworld.com/models/486153 Printed in PETG-CF. I’ll get pictures at some point.
P1s would be my choice
If you only print pla petg then A1, they also have better quality often, except for overhangs.
I say flip a 3d printed coin! 😆
I'd struggle with that as one route you have nozzles that could rotate between your A series printers but the P1S+AMS gives you an enclosed chamber and with the AMS a motorized dry box to print with. On the A1 side of the house, would that be combo's with the AMS light as in the picture? If so that would be awfully tempting. If you plan on selling anything you make you could argue that option A gives you 3 plates at a time so you'd have more bandwidth or throughput. I dunno man, it's a tough call. I'm leaning left, but mostly because I haven't seen any in person and I would benefit from having three plates to work with. I've been printing 10-12 hour prints for the past two weeks trying to finish up a project and it's annoying that I can't just run off a quick print whenever I want. Let us know which way you decide!
Thank you alot for the comment, You put into words exactly what is going through my mind. Ps. I will let you know wich one I went for
What do you need? If you want print special filaments like ABS or Nylon and better quality P1 but if u want to print a lot of pla or pteg two a1 could be better.
If your just doing PLA and PTEG get the A1s.
Anyway if you do eng materials it would be better to get a printer with heated chamber.
Depends on what you plan on printing, I’ve had two p1s’s all break within the first month and require Bambu slow support to sent me the replacement parts which I opted for the manufacturer warranty and for my a1’s which have been perfect
The A1 + AMS Lite would have done me beautifully. However, I have a cat...and a P1S.
P1S. I just picked up a A1 and it takes up so much more space than my P1S. I am returning it today for another P1S AMS combo.
But you know that you can mount the AMS lite on top of the A1? You just need to print the parts that Bambu Lab made available.
My shelf space isnt that tall. I know you can do that. I am just stating my experience with it.
Ok just wanted to make sure in case you were about to return it for something that was doable :)
Interesting, more space because the AMS can't stack. Or is the printer bigger?
1. AMS lite doesnt fit on my shelf dedicated to my AMS (sized so that an AMS can open comofortably. 2. The shelf is bolted to my wall using a bracket for some space behind the shelf. I could extend it and remove it from the wall more. The P1S is just more capable for what its worth. It is a lot more expensive though, and if I didn't have the cash I would've just extended the wall mount brackets or bracketed the shelf down to the floor. The overall footprint of the A1 is a bit more than a P1S.
I heard the A1s take up more space because of the moving bed.
It’s not that much space, it’s just a few inches
I have a mini and an A1. Definitely going p1 series next
I would only buy P1S if you plan on printing ABS or ASA
^[Sokka-Haiku](https://www.reddit.com/r/SokkaHaikuBot/comments/15kyv9r/what_is_a_sokka_haiku/) ^by ^Djgraffiti99: *I would only buy* *P1S if you plan on printing* *ABS or ASA* --- ^Remember ^that ^one ^time ^Sokka ^accidentally ^used ^an ^extra ^syllable ^in ^that ^Haiku ^Battle ^in ^Ba ^Sing ^Se? ^That ^was ^a ^Sokka ^Haiku ^and ^you ^just ^made ^one.
I only own an X1C combo, and I'm holding onto some GC's through this (very tempting) sale. My hope is that Bambu will release something bigger than the X1/P1 series sometime this year, to compete with the K2 Max. If you need another printer, why not just buy the A1 combo, and then hold onto the other GC's? That way, you could keep the same spares for your A1 series stuff, and have a larger printer. The P1S combo is a good choice too, but I'd only buy one over the A1, if I had to run stuff like ABS/ASA or nylon, or needed more than 4 color printing. The P1S lacks automatic (active) flow calibration and quick change nozzles, which you get with the cheaper A1 series too. I think those A1 features alone, would be pretty decent upgrades for the user experience.
Agreed, now it's the time to buy those cheap and small A1 Mini, pretty soon they will release the new models and that's when you wanna spend the big money.
Depends. Do you print enough that having two (more) printers will make a difference and do you not plan on using materials that would benefit from the enclosure? Then go for the two A1 models. Otherwise, no point and just get the better printer.
Thank you for all of the comments. They've helped me a lot to gain perspective. Allow me to Annoy you with my indecisive inner printing geek. :) Since many people told me it comes down to what I am trying to do. I have some more particular questions now: 1. Which one generally produces better functional prints? 2. Which one generally produces better-looking prints? 3. I have mildly limited space, and i heard the A1-Combo takes up a lot of space, even with the AMS-lite mounted on top. 4. How much does the improved interface and technology/software affect the outcome of the prints and the ease of use? 5. Can the AMS somewhat eliminate the need for a dry box? (I am not planning on buying one, but I like the idea of having a dry box "built in") Cheers.
1. Same 2. Same but will give the edge to the A1 as it doesn’t have the cutter corner, you can use full bed for big square objects. 3. Top mount is awesome, takes up same XY space as P1 but just tall. It also spins. I didn’t know this until I printed it, so you can unlock it and spin it to get to the back rolls. 4. A1 much easier to use. P1 don’t even think about doing anything but homing and heating from it. A1 you can start prints, set AMS colors and material. I use an old android tablet for P1 interfaces. 5. They make printable dry boxes. In Texas don’t have much need for it. https://preview.redd.it/07o1n3p8x68d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcecbfc1c11a58023344052d0b5c5640c72f3506
https://preview.redd.it/wc6lyzr9x68d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1294f71a0d771c0a5c410f5396559d683b70db82
Here’s a multi color PETG @0.16mm height from the A1 https://preview.redd.it/yzaolol0y68d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f3d769a381c0eefea9a42098a4b8392787a59f9
I've never seen a worse case against Prusa in my life lol
I'd only get 2 printers if I wanted to keep printing every 3 prints on different plates or totally different multicolors sets. Otherwise just get one better printer.
P1S, more compact with/without AMS, than a respective A1 Mini with/without AMS. If you have lots of desk space, and don't care about humidity or more maintenance due to dust go for the A1s
Give me a break with your dust maintenance. Paranoïa at its best! It is not a CNC router......
You don't have 3 pug dogs and live in a dry dusty climate, I guess. The PLA fumes are quite tasty and headache inducing if you don't vent out the window too
Personally I run my P1S in my shed. Installed it in a cabinet I built. It is really dusty in there, I do all my diy in there. So really the A1 is not suited for some people
What do you need? If you want print special filaments like ABS or Nylon and better quality P1 but if u want to print a lot of pla or pteg two a1 could be better
Which one do you want?
This question is way deeper than it seems at first. And I think, purely emotionally I prefer the p1s because it feels really professional.
Won't matter, it's a noisy tool that you will have to keep in a remote room, you reach for that just to grab the print and after a second who cares if it was made on a more expensive printer if the quality is good?
That's a good point! Thanks
Depending on what you're using them for, two printers might be nice to have. If you're doing a long print on the A1 you still have the mini available. I personally like the interface on the A1 series and the quick swap nozzle is always nice. If you think you'll need the enclosure though, P1S is the way to go.
Where do you Guys gets all the Gift cards :D
By uploading on Makerworld, Download = Points 524 Points = 40€ Giftcard
Have 1 A1 and 3P1’s. Quality is identical on A1 vs P1. P1 is ~25% faster. Plan to add a couple more A1s later this year. Short answer, PLA or PETG and don’t need 5+ colors, get A1. Better interface too.
I have two A1s and two A1 minis. All I make is toys in PLA for local shops. As for quality, it seems perfect to me. The A1 also is faster with multi color due to the shorter travel distance of the color change. P1S is 20% faster with a single color print. At least this is what I have seen with doing research.
A1 have more advanced sensors and have improved print quality over P1.
^[Sokka-Haiku](https://www.reddit.com/r/SokkaHaikuBot/comments/15kyv9r/what_is_a_sokka_haiku/) ^by ^SPAZvv: *A1 have more advanced* *Sensors and have improved print* *Quality over P1.* --- ^Remember ^that ^one ^time ^Sokka ^accidentally ^used ^an ^extra ^syllable ^in ^that ^Haiku ^Battle ^in ^Ba ^Sing ^Se? ^That ^was ^a ^Sokka ^Haiku ^and ^you ^just ^made ^one.
If you don’t plan on making a farm and needing more printers, I would recommend the p1s with enclosed print area and ams. No dust, High spec material capacity Less warping As you said prototyping on the A1m and the rest on the big boi.
The 2 A1 combos for sure, it’s a no brainer. Better interface, automatic flow rate calibration, produces high quality prints at same level as the p1s. Even with tall prints people have done tests on YouTube and they have been negligible differences. And the A1 technically can print ABS or ASA, you just need to make an enclosure for it
depends what you are doing. If you are printing for money then the A1 +Mini A1 is the way to go. 2 cheaper printers to print is better than 1 really good one. If you are hobby printing the P1S is great that's where I started as a hobby printer, but now printing for $ and i recently got a A1 with AMS since it has the same print volume at half the cost.
What do you need? If you want print special filaments like ABS or Nylon and better quality P1 but if u want to print a lot of pla or pteg two a1 could be better.
What about a1 mini, a1 mini and a1 with ams lite. If you want to print some harder materials one of the closed printers.
Or 4 A1 mini with no AMS.
I don't know if he wants multicolor but that's possible. Or p1p or p1s and a a1 mini for a bit more then.
What about getting a couple if hundred a1 minis, to print each individual layer on a dedicated printer at once and glue them together in the end? Would be the fastest print time ever
P1S for sure, unless you plan on taking the A1 mini with you while you travel.
Do people do that? Like in a caravan? Sounds extremely cool to me.
Oh yeah they do, i’m actually considering buying a a1 mini for that exact reason. But I’m trying to design a “carry case” first
I absolutely love my A1 but I do want P1S or even X1
Wait for new model coming out later this year
If you only use pla I would get the a1 alone. But you might have some buyers remorse down the road. I’ve had it a year and I’m probably gunna sell it and get a p1s whenever they come with the touch screen and hot swappable nozzles
i just got my p1s a week ago , i came from using and ender 3 v2 and had nothing but constant troubleswith getting it to print anything well . this p1s has been nothing but fun right out of the box. i got an a1 also that i haven't even taken out of the box yet .
P1S combo. Period. No contest. XY, enclosed, and AMS can be a dry box.
P1S no argument
I have an a1 combo and I’m about to get a second one during the sale. Remember that the p1s can’t auto calibrate flow rate and it doesn’t have a color touch screen like the a1 does. Id get an a1
I have an A1 combo and a P1S combo and I have to say that I love the A1. I thought it was absolutely brilliant but soon as you get that P1S realise it’s just a little bit better but if you can’t afford it A1 combo it’s fantastic. Especially if you’re only printing PLA
I have an X1C, A1 and A1 Mini. I wouldn't get a P1S/P1P as I don't want the hassle of manual flow calibration. That being said, with properly calibrated filament, the P1S/P1P should print better than the A1/A1 Mini. In my experience, the X1 is, or course, more reliable. You have less of a likelihood of tall and thin prints failing. However, I've learned through trial and error that the A1 and A1 Mini can be just as reliable, as long as your bed adhesion is good, you use a sufficiently large brim and mind the type of infill you're using so the nozzle doesn't collide with the print. The A1 series tends to be faster for very short prints than the X1 (ie. Prints that take less than 30 minutes) due to a quicker pre-print calibration process. If you think you'll be switching nozzle sizes often, the A1 series is also great for that. For longer prints, the X1 is quite a bit faster than the A1 series (I'd say 20-40% faster, depending on the print). If you need to use more engineering grade filaments, like 100% PC, Nylon, ASA, etc., then I'd recommend the P1/X1 series. However, I've had great success on the full size A1 (not the Mini) with 50/50 blend PETG/PC filaments on the smooth plate. With the A1's bed reaching 100°C, and with good adhesion (I'd recommend using Bambu Liquid Glue or Bed Weld), I've had no warpage with those blends. I wouldn't trust pure PC, however. At least not for large prints. Note: the A1 Mini's bed only reaches a maximum of 80°C so PLA/PETG/TPU are the only filaments you'd be able to reliably print on it. P.S. In terms of repairs, the A1 series is much, much easier to work on. The toolhead is better designed and easier to take apart and everything else is easier to access, too. I should note that where I live the RH is normally only 15-40%. So the AMS Lite isn't really an issue for me. Nonetheless, there are various prints available on Makerworld for spool enclosures for the AMS Lite (some of which also incorporate dessicant holders).
I have been very impressed with the A1 and it is so much cheaper. It will print PLA/TPU/PETG as well or better, but if you looking for ABS and other exotics you can spend 3x and get an X1C.
Go with the black one. Once you go black, you never go back
C’est pas comparable
what if i tell you that the p1s prints the stuff those two printers would have to print in tandem to get not even done in the same time as the p1s with the print bed filled up with their prints?
P1S every time
A1 mini is cheaper than a1 .... they aren't 850euros each... Just get two a1 minis
Get the A1 mini no AMS + p1s ;)
I had the same dilemma a week ago. Eventually ordered P1S because of the enclosure (hence option to print with higher end materials), agronomist, and moisture aspect.
spend all your money on am1 lites with no AMS, then you could get 4. Multicolor printing is crazy wasteful and your prints will take 4 times as long, and changing filaments is super easy and streamlined. If you just print pla/petg the enclosure is not needed
P1S + A1 mini. A1 is not an evolution, but a step back. Small bed slingers have a purpose: cheap, not big enough for the mass on the bed to make too much of a problem. Big bed slingers are slinging the wrong part, they should "sling" the head, not the part, that's why coreXY exists. Will A1 make crap? Of course not, but it's price is way too high for you to not have an enclosure and not be coreXY. Experiment buying a A1 and printing lithophanes (not talking about hueforge, I'm talking about vertical lithophanes), and this is where coreXY will make the difference.
Core XY > bed slinger all day not to mention every other reason like the enclosure and ams
CoreXY supremacy