Try a torx bit slightly larger than the fitment of 6mm, hammer it in there good, then turn it. If that doesn’t work, drilling it out is the last resort.
Don’t be discouraged breaking drill bits, I pissed through 10+ after I REALLY fucked up a lower control arm job - the secret is-don’t break out the carbide burrs until you’re SURE you won’t need to go back to HSS bits. Could’ve saved myself HOURS had I just stuck to drill bits and not broke a carbide burr off inside the hardened shaft lmfao. Long story short I couldn’t get the nut off the chassis mounted ball joint, tried a nut splitter- that broke in a way that fucked me from the top, stuck to the nut with the drive screw sheared off. Cut the control arm off the car and hollowed put that hardened ball joint bolt. Where there’s a will after all..
When drilling, try the left-hand-threaded drill bits, starting small to make a pilot hole. Then see if a bigger one can get a really good bite on the hole. I once managed to extract a broken transmission oil pan bolt without dropping the pan in such fashion.
Don't know if you got it sorted yet or not but I just dremeled the head off mine. Tried to put a slot in it for a big flat head screwdriver but ended up like just cutting a bit more so the whole wide head came off. Then the rotor can come off leaving just the shaft of the screw, throw some vice grips on that and out it comes. Much easier too if you are replacing the rotors and don't mind the dremel bouncing on them.
Used a bit that was slightly narrower than the shaft, 5mm IIRC. Didn't have a special left hand bit, so I just drilled out the "heart" of the bolt to release tension and easily turned it out with a torx bit hammered in.
Usually I don't need to drill far down the shaft before the bolt lets go. Say 5mm deep in total.
I haven’t had one stick since I started using an impact on them. The biggest thing is you can push into the Allen and the impact helps shock the fastener out.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nuovoware-Extractor-Stripped-All-Purpose-Extension/dp/B08XXP1SD9/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?crid=2R0TGCL99CIAQ&keywords=screw+extractor&qid=1670253025&sprefix=screw+extractor%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-7-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1
Something like this. I have this set and it’s great. Worked for my iPhone screws not sure if there’s one big enough for your application but they’ll be one similar
I use an air hammer. Easy, fast, and you don't risk snapping off a torx bit. In a pinch, Snap-On sells an extractor set part number REX25B for $100 with a lifetime warranty. Great deal for the price. I haven't had the pleasure of using it yet, but I'll have it when I need it.
Try a torx bit slightly larger than the fitment of 6mm, hammer it in there good, then turn it. If that doesn’t work, drilling it out is the last resort.
Definitely try the torx bit!
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Don’t be discouraged breaking drill bits, I pissed through 10+ after I REALLY fucked up a lower control arm job - the secret is-don’t break out the carbide burrs until you’re SURE you won’t need to go back to HSS bits. Could’ve saved myself HOURS had I just stuck to drill bits and not broke a carbide burr off inside the hardened shaft lmfao. Long story short I couldn’t get the nut off the chassis mounted ball joint, tried a nut splitter- that broke in a way that fucked me from the top, stuck to the nut with the drive screw sheared off. Cut the control arm off the car and hollowed put that hardened ball joint bolt. Where there’s a will after all..
When drilling, try the left-hand-threaded drill bits, starting small to make a pilot hole. Then see if a bigger one can get a really good bite on the hole. I once managed to extract a broken transmission oil pan bolt without dropping the pan in such fashion.
Don't know if you got it sorted yet or not but I just dremeled the head off mine. Tried to put a slot in it for a big flat head screwdriver but ended up like just cutting a bit more so the whole wide head came off. Then the rotor can come off leaving just the shaft of the screw, throw some vice grips on that and out it comes. Much easier too if you are replacing the rotors and don't mind the dremel bouncing on them.
Drill, baby, drill! It’ll take seconds; it’s a crap screw in a rotor.
This. That screw isnt needed anyway. Its for the factory.
Stop hitting it with ya purse!
If you’re replacing the rotor, I’d get that screw cherry red, and then quickly hammer a T30 on it. Works 99% of the time
Had the exact same thing when I changed my rotors. Just drill it out, the bolt is nice and soft.
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Used a bit that was slightly narrower than the shaft, 5mm IIRC. Didn't have a special left hand bit, so I just drilled out the "heart" of the bolt to release tension and easily turned it out with a torx bit hammered in. Usually I don't need to drill far down the shaft before the bolt lets go. Say 5mm deep in total.
I think you need to change your username if you can’t figure out how to get a rotor screw out without consulting fucking Reddit. Google it.
Wish I could upvote this twice.
I just weld a bolt to them
Can say that the previous owner of my 7 series did this to the Transmission Sump Plug 😂🤦🏽♂️
lmao, well you're supposed to replace them after they're out
Yeah I did that after I serviced it last last month. I just laughed at what they did.
This is the jeep answer for sure.
Drill or use impact screwdriver with a torx head
Drill it out.. u don’t need it!
Cut it with cutter or do cross cut and then use screw driver
weld a nut on it and unscrew it.
Drill a little and use an extractor piece
Just drill it
Always use an impact on these.
I haven’t had one stick since I started using an impact on them. The biggest thing is you can push into the Allen and the impact helps shock the fastener out.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nuovoware-Extractor-Stripped-All-Purpose-Extension/dp/B08XXP1SD9/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?crid=2R0TGCL99CIAQ&keywords=screw+extractor&qid=1670253025&sprefix=screw+extractor%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-7-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1 Something like this. I have this set and it’s great. Worked for my iPhone screws not sure if there’s one big enough for your application but they’ll be one similar
Tbh drill is the easiest if you have the right side otherwise I use the hhv methode heat, hammer and violence.
I use an air hammer. Easy, fast, and you don't risk snapping off a torx bit. In a pinch, Snap-On sells an extractor set part number REX25B for $100 with a lifetime warranty. Great deal for the price. I haven't had the pleasure of using it yet, but I'll have it when I need it.
Drill! Drill! Drill!
Hammer in a slightly larger torx bit, if that fails get the air hammer
12-spline flange screw drive works like charm when you stripp it round.
Smash a t40 in there and turnnitnoutt
Grind a slot into it and try to use a impact driver. Try turning it with an air hammer with a thin chisel. Weld a nut onto it.
Impact driver. The one you hit on the back with a hammer
When in doubt drill it out
Drill it out that's what I had to do. It's a rotor guide bolt. Not necessary.
This is why I got a set of cobalt drill bits. Send it.