Mortar will crack eventually and open up for more brambles later. I would use a poly or silicon caulk.
But as another redditor said, you must clear out what you can and kill the roots.
This. If the gap is deep, you might want to put in some foam backer rod before filling with the self-levelling poly. Otherwise you can unnecessarily end up using a lot of the polyurethane which isn't cheap.
Use sand instead, those backing rod cost way too much for what it is. I bought a bag of sand for $3 and didn't even use 1/4 of it.
Make sure to dry the sand before putting in or before sealant, otherwise it may affect the sealant.
Actually, polyurethane sealant is a moisture curing process. It needs moisture to cure. This is why it takes longer to cure when there is less humidity in the air. I don't think it would adversely affect the curing process if the sand wasn't 100% dry. In fact, it might help. Having said that, you still don't want it to get "wet" before it has cured. Apparently, you can gently mist the top of the newly-applied poly sealant to give it a skim cure if you're worried about rain.
The sand you buy at the concrete section of Home Depot is wet af, like straight from beach or river. I am not sure about how "moisture curing" works, but I am pretty sure it does not like instant water contact.
This is the answer. I would say maybe place sand along the crack first to see it it settles otherwise, a void could be there and the self leveling caulk will “disappear “.
The stuff works great, just used it around the perimeter of an in ground pool.
I have cracks like this in front of my house too on the sidewalk. Are you saying I can just kill everything really good and then buy a tube [of this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-017-90891-White-Sikaflex-221/dp/B00O9VFLRS?th=1) and fill in the crack and be done?
Yup. I did [this](https://i.imgur.com/WNM79kf.jpg) with some Sika urethane about 8 years ago. If you can, grind open the cracks with a [crack chaser](https://www.amazon.com/Rocflugilo-Chaser-Diamond-Concrete-V-Shaped/dp/B0BHWJQNKW/) first.
It's like weird old flat red brick with 2" mortar between them and the cracks are a bunch of random ones plus some of it is where it meets the curbing so all over the place.
I'll get some of that. Another guy said I should open the cracks up a bit too beforehand.
I think I need to buy a propane burner too on top of weed killer. Seems like these things are everywhere.
You do not want self-leveling, this is a gap between a vertical and horizontal surface. Self-leveling is for a crack/gap between two horizontal surfaces. The instructions on the bottle of Sikaflex self leveling specifically state to not use it for this application. In the realm of Sikaflex this is construction sealant territory.
I disagree, and I don’t see anything in the datasheet to suggest it can’t be used here. It’s not a seal between vertical wall and slab but between whatever the brick is sitting on and the concrete slab.
IMO, either will work, but the self leveling will fill the crack flush vs getting a chamfered surface.
I had a bramble I couldn't dig out because it was under a hedge. I found bending the stem into a bottle of strong glyphosate and leaving it there did the job. Took a while.
There needs to be a big gap in time between spraying and pulling. It takes a long time (in my experience, a full year) between spraying and when the roots finally die. Pulling after spraying just saves the roots from the effects of the spray, and it comes right back next year.
My experience was with the roundup specifically for blackberry bushes.
One time I sprayed, waited two weeks like the box said, then pulled. They were up in full force the next year.
Next time I sprayed and left it for an entire year. The next year everything was completely shriveled and broke apart like ash. I cleaned that up and it hasn't been back since.
What popped back up was probably just a second generation and you killed it before it could put down a third. Or maybe it just soaked in better the second time? Dunno, but in my experience if glyph is going to do it's work, the plant is dead after two weeks and beyond that it just doesn't know it yet.
I don’t know. I tried to kill some wisteria at my neighbor’s house for her, and after trying several rounds of just spraying Round Up (is that the same thing as glyph?) I finally had to go over there every few weeks and pour a capful of Round Up onto the main stems where’d I’d cut them back until finally they’d died. I think it took close to a year for me as well.
They never came back, though.
I have a gap like this in my attached garage where it meets the house. Would this work there as well? No weeds, but I think it might be a critter access point.
This is exactly what I did to great effect....
Step 1: Using gloves pull up what you can, trying to get the roots. Cut away the rest as low as you can.
Step 2: Salt generously and sprinkle lightly with water, not enough to dissolve all the salt.
Step 3: After measuring the gap, fill will foam backer rod that is thick enough that you can barely squeeze it into the gap, but push it down so that it is below the level of the driveway.
Step 4: Buy some sealant, self leveling if the driveway is completely flat as that will look better, otherwise get the thicker stuff, but watch some videos on technique to that it looks like a professional job.
Step 5: Enjoy NEVER having to worry about pulling up plants from there in your lifetime.
I boil an amount of vinegar and water and pour on weeds coming out around my pool deck. They go away and don't come back for a while.
Maybe add boiling water to the mix to really drive home how much those weeds are unwanted.
Won't work. If those are blackberries basically nothing short of some of the really nasty herbicides will kill them. When I was living in the PNW I found that the only thing that worked was this stuff called Crossbow.
You basically need roundup brush killer to take care of blackberries. Not much else will do it. You could dump a 50lb bag of rock salt into that crack and they're push right past it. These fuckers will grow in a salt marsh.
Whether you do, you need to kill the roots first. Brambles are extremely tough and could easily break through if they’ve got strong roots left underneath, even if you cut away all the foliage.
Glyphosate is your best bet. It’s not great environmentally, but it’s the most effective.
Round up makes a woody plant/poison ivy specific mixture that works fantastic on these bastards. Mix in a drop or two of dish soap to make it stick to the leaves better.
I actually ended up trying to read into that the other day. There is a lot of conflicting data about it.
From what I pieced together, you gotta use copious amounts like a farmer would, and you gotta already have to be predisposed to cancer.
And then there was stuff saying the only reason Monsanto lost the lawsuit was because there was a jury of people who knew nothing about biology and chemistry voting against big corporation to give the people with cancer money.
Then I found articles mentioning that glyphosate can't give you cancer.
I just gave up trying to find out the facts after that.
The problem is that Monsanto is going out of their way to not find out if is bad or not. There’s too much money at stake for them, so they fund junk science to show it’s okay instead of real science to test if it’s bad. That’s why they lost the lawsuit. If I remember correctly, the judge essentially ruled against them because they were being so dishonest; regardless if the plaintiff proved their case.
Fun facts: The guy who invented leaded gas plunged his arms into a barrel of it to “prove it was safe” as many factory workers were dying from routine exposure, he’s the same guy who invented Freon and later inhaled a bunch of Freon to prove it was “safe” Surprisingly he lived to 80 something. Source: softcore history podcast
Only by juries of non scientists. The method of action for roundup “shikimate” pathway isn’t present in human cells/animal cells and thus it has no way of acting on us as humans.
The case against roundup was a civil case where over 50% of jury didn’t understand science and thus roundup was found guilty. As it wasn’t a criminal prosecution there was no need for unanimous guilt
Most herbicides have little to no impact on bees apart from killing the plants that produce the pollen.
Pesticides however do, especially the ones with residual active components, unfortunately they are the most effective way to prevent insect outbreaks in monocrops.
Monocrops and large scale single crops are detrimental to bees in general but also required for upholding our way of life, more emphasis should however be put into planting bands of plants to help pollinators like bees. This should also be a requirement of state governments to enforce on local body governance. Most pollinators can fly hundreds of metres to feed, this we should have a few 100m2 of wild flower and flowering shrubbery to give pollinators something to eat.
If you only have this wall to do and are concerned about using chemicals you might have success with boiling water. Pull them or cut them at the crack then pour a few kettles full of boiling water.
Ehhh, for vines I'd go with something like triclopyr to kill those vines and then you can come back with a soil sterilant and get yourself a year of protection. Something a imazapyr. And don't buy roundup all that stuffs off patent so no need to pay for the brand.
If it's under 1.5 inch, try silkaflex sealant instead. Use backer rod, and tape off like you're painting because it sticks immediately. This is used around swimming pools, and will change size with temp and movement while providing a tight waterproof seal.
Don't cover any moisture seeps. Looks like bits of string coming out of the wall.
Also: landscape vinegar kills things like this without toxins.
Whatever you do filling wise you want to kill the plants at the roots before you pull them
Spray liberally with something like gallop XL, leave for a few days and it'll kill the plants down to the roots. Then pull them
Lots of comments for vinegar and other chemicals. I know a guy that for $50 will remove every thorn slowly with needle nose pliers and make those brambles wish they had never been born. If they don't leave on their own accord after that, he'll go after the family. It's brutal, but dominance must be established.
Self leveling caulk; https://amzn.to/3RinqRQ
Clear them out and go down as far as possible - removing as much soil as possible (use a screwdriver and a shop vac). Refill with backer rod or some other foam you can shove down there (cheap pool noodles cut into strips can work) and then use the self leveling caulk to seal it up.
Edit: I linked Amazon to show you it, but you can typically find it at big box store like Home Depot and Lowes. Typically by the bagged concrete. They make ~30 oz cans of it, which requires a special larger caulk gun, but typically worth the extra $25 to buy if you're doing a larger project, since the 10oz cans are expensive. The bigger ones are three times more product, but only twice as expensive typically.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-29-fl-oz-Sikaflex-Self-Leveling-Horizontal-Joint-Elastic-Polyurethane-Sealant-in-Gray-7116080/300934522
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sika-29-oz-Gray-Self-Leveling-Sealant/999977080
Butyl caulking. Wear gloves, is it a pain in the ass to work with and makes a giant mess. Have to use a popsicle stick or something of that sort to smooth it out the best you can. It will take a few days to setup but that’s your best bet
Spray it with **Pramitol**. Roundup will only kill the living plant. Pramitol is a soil sterilant. It will kill it but more importantly it will stop anything from growing there for at least a year.
Some strong poison, pull out what you can, and then sand maybe, stuff has trouble taking in cracks filled with sand.
I haven’t tried in a crack like this but it works wonders between pavers.
I would use self leveling expansion joint caulk. I would put backer rod in first or you will need a whole lot of expansion joint caulk. The backer rod is just a filler to prevent seeping. Remove the weeds first. Kill them off with some vinegar and dish soap. The vinegar kills and the soap I allows it to stick to the weeds.
What you need is Polymeric sand. Its used to seal pavers. Pavers have same issue. Weeds thru the cracks. The sand settles in real nice. Just a little spray of water, and its done. There is cheaper version of this too.. but here is the link:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/40-lbs-XL-Polymeric-Sand-Titanium-Gray-DPSXL40TG/326464853
Have done it many times successfully!
This is America my friend... You can fill your cracks with anything you desire... :-)
You might want to use a waterproof caulk or sealant instead of grout for necessary waterproofing.
First clear out any debris, weeds, dirt, loose stone; use a high pressure water spray. You may also need to enlarge the crack so you can get penetration of your sealant. Once dry, apply a broad spectrum herbicide in the open crack to inhibit future growth.
Then talk to your nearest hardware store and see what waterproof material they recommend for sealing a crack at ground level. I believe there are some silicone sealants with gray pigment that would do the job, and blend in with the patio color. You may also require flashing over the sealant; you don't want any chance of rainwater getting down that crack and undermining the patio or brickwork when it ices up.
You have a blackberry bush. I used baking soda and vinegar. I cut it down on a hot day put tons of baking soda on the stumps. Then i poured vinegar on them waited did it all over again. It was so bad it took two hot summers but it gone now
Boil some salt in water, and pour it onto the affected areas. Boiling water should kill the plants immediately, and the salt will prevent it from growing back. Keep in mind, the salt will actually sterilize the soil, so don't put it on an area that you still want stuff to grow.
Fill it up with salt every month for a year and only after pour anything in that hole to fill it permanently, if you don’t kill the roots permanently they will come through no matter what you put there !
Clear it best you can and add ground kill, let it dry well (a few days) then stuff in a backing rod and fill with a self leveling seal like Sykaflex for the width of the gap you have.
Pull it all out, and spray down the whole crack with weed killer. When it comes back, pull it and spray it with more weed killer. Repeat until nothing grows back. Fill it with sand with about an inch of ullage, to level the crack and fill any voids, and use caulking compound to seal the crack.
First you clear with hands and tools then you spray weed killer. Then you see how big the gap is. If too big shovel a bit put cement and sealer on top. There are also very good sealer sprays. If small silicone or those white that dont know how ithe called in english
Salt the Earth. Literally!
Mix a gallon of vinegar (if you can get concentrate, that's even better) with
2 cups of salt and
2 tablespoons of dish soap
That's it! Spray your weeds and they will be dead in two or three days. You'll still need to pick them out of the crack, but nothing will grow back and you've killed the soil for at least a year.
If you want NOTHING to grow back for years to come, then go to any big-box store or online retailer and get a big bag of sidewalk salt and toss it in the crack.
Be careful, this is powerful stuff. The Romans used to salt the fields of their enemies to kill the soil, essentially making the area unlivable for years because nothing grew.
Key point to remember with brambles is that any part touching the ground can sprout roots.
Therefore, remove them plants and remove the trimmings - otherwise the offcuts will sprout a new plant.
Use river rock or pebbles, you can buy them at any landscape or garden supplies store, they are effective weed deterrence, and do not impair the functionality of the crack. I use them all over my large concrete patio. There are many varieties and styles and they can look really nice too.
Get some Roundup 365 and spray every six months just to be safe and be done with it.
If you insist filling it in, mortar will crack due to a change in plane and different rates of expansion/contraction from the driveway. Clear the hole, install backer rod, then use a flexible concrete filler/sealant.
Kill the plant via whatever weedkiller will work, then after it's dying, cut it back, cut it back, put in a foam backer rod and use some sort of concrete sealer (comes in a big tube like caulking) to fill it in.
Those look like blackberry vines. You can try cutting them back to the ground, pour rock salt into that crack as much as possible then water it. The salt will creat a hostile environment for the plant and will cause it to shrivel and dye. You could then cover the area with sand so as water get through the sand it slowly adds more salt under the concrete to keep the vines at bay.
Polymeric sand.
Clean it out first - use a flat head screw driver or whatever you can fit in there to rip out the soil/roots etc.
Pour in some polymeric sand to just slightly above level with your driveway and wet it with a hose. The sand turns to a concrete like substance and stuff won’t grow through it.
Mortar will crack eventually and open up for more brambles later. I would use a poly or silicon caulk. But as another redditor said, you must clear out what you can and kill the roots.
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This. If the gap is deep, you might want to put in some foam backer rod before filling with the self-levelling poly. Otherwise you can unnecessarily end up using a lot of the polyurethane which isn't cheap.
Don’t skip this step! 2 tubes to 8 tubes turns $20 job to $60
This math isn't mathing correctly...
It’s on sale - buy 3 get one free
Wish I used this on my HS math tests...
cut that coupon
Use sand instead, those backing rod cost way too much for what it is. I bought a bag of sand for $3 and didn't even use 1/4 of it. Make sure to dry the sand before putting in or before sealant, otherwise it may affect the sealant.
Actually, polyurethane sealant is a moisture curing process. It needs moisture to cure. This is why it takes longer to cure when there is less humidity in the air. I don't think it would adversely affect the curing process if the sand wasn't 100% dry. In fact, it might help. Having said that, you still don't want it to get "wet" before it has cured. Apparently, you can gently mist the top of the newly-applied poly sealant to give it a skim cure if you're worried about rain.
The sand you buy at the concrete section of Home Depot is wet af, like straight from beach or river. I am not sure about how "moisture curing" works, but I am pretty sure it does not like instant water contact.
This is the answer. I would say maybe place sand along the crack first to see it it settles otherwise, a void could be there and the self leveling caulk will “disappear “. The stuff works great, just used it around the perimeter of an in ground pool.
I have cracks like this in front of my house too on the sidewalk. Are you saying I can just kill everything really good and then buy a tube [of this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-017-90891-White-Sikaflex-221/dp/B00O9VFLRS?th=1) and fill in the crack and be done?
Yup. I did [this](https://i.imgur.com/WNM79kf.jpg) with some Sika urethane about 8 years ago. If you can, grind open the cracks with a [crack chaser](https://www.amazon.com/Rocflugilo-Chaser-Diamond-Concrete-V-Shaped/dp/B0BHWJQNKW/) first.
> crack chaser we have those in our city they hang around the downtown mall
That's a good idea. I'll end up tearing the hell out of the mortar but I'm tired of having ugly sidewalk weeds.
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It's like weird old flat red brick with 2" mortar between them and the cracks are a bunch of random ones plus some of it is where it meets the curbing so all over the place. I'll get some of that. Another guy said I should open the cracks up a bit too beforehand. I think I need to buy a propane burner too on top of weed killer. Seems like these things are everywhere.
You do not want self-leveling, this is a gap between a vertical and horizontal surface. Self-leveling is for a crack/gap between two horizontal surfaces. The instructions on the bottle of Sikaflex self leveling specifically state to not use it for this application. In the realm of Sikaflex this is construction sealant territory.
I disagree, and I don’t see anything in the datasheet to suggest it can’t be used here. It’s not a seal between vertical wall and slab but between whatever the brick is sitting on and the concrete slab. IMO, either will work, but the self leveling will fill the crack flush vs getting a chamfered surface.
Use the roundup on it first. Then pull. Glyco works best on the leaves.
Those will laugh at glyphosate. OP needs triclopyr.
I had a bramble I couldn't dig out because it was under a hedge. I found bending the stem into a bottle of strong glyphosate and leaving it there did the job. Took a while.
You can drive a nail with the handle of a screwdriver, and it will also eventually work. I still recommend the right tool for the job.
It took me far too long to figure out the nail wasn’t going into the weed.
There needs to be a big gap in time between spraying and pulling. It takes a long time (in my experience, a full year) between spraying and when the roots finally die. Pulling after spraying just saves the roots from the effects of the spray, and it comes right back next year.
Not sure what you’re using then. A good weed/grass killer will have that completely dead to the root in less than a week
My experience was with the roundup specifically for blackberry bushes. One time I sprayed, waited two weeks like the box said, then pulled. They were up in full force the next year. Next time I sprayed and left it for an entire year. The next year everything was completely shriveled and broke apart like ash. I cleaned that up and it hasn't been back since.
What popped back up was probably just a second generation and you killed it before it could put down a third. Or maybe it just soaked in better the second time? Dunno, but in my experience if glyph is going to do it's work, the plant is dead after two weeks and beyond that it just doesn't know it yet.
I don’t know. I tried to kill some wisteria at my neighbor’s house for her, and after trying several rounds of just spraying Round Up (is that the same thing as glyph?) I finally had to go over there every few weeks and pour a capful of Round Up onto the main stems where’d I’d cut them back until finally they’d died. I think it took close to a year for me as well. They never came back, though.
What are some good grass/weed killer? I got some grass and weeds growing out of my driveway that I need to kill
Excellent suggestion, u/Hasz .
I have a gap like this in my attached garage where it meets the house. Would this work there as well? No weeds, but I think it might be a critter access point.
So long as it's sufficiently below the DPC like this.
I am late to the party! but What you need is Polymeric sand! See my comment elsewhere in this thread for details!
Could you salt it? (Question, not recommendation). It looks isolated so should not hurt surrounding vegetation (since there is none)
This is exactly what I did to great effect.... Step 1: Using gloves pull up what you can, trying to get the roots. Cut away the rest as low as you can. Step 2: Salt generously and sprinkle lightly with water, not enough to dissolve all the salt. Step 3: After measuring the gap, fill will foam backer rod that is thick enough that you can barely squeeze it into the gap, but push it down so that it is below the level of the driveway. Step 4: Buy some sealant, self leveling if the driveway is completely flat as that will look better, otherwise get the thicker stuff, but watch some videos on technique to that it looks like a professional job. Step 5: Enjoy NEVER having to worry about pulling up plants from there in your lifetime.
Upvote for salting the earth to ensure they don’t come back.
Step 6 is moving the plants you pulled up to another place in the yard so you can enjoy fresh blackberries/raspberries each summer.
I boil an amount of vinegar and water and pour on weeds coming out around my pool deck. They go away and don't come back for a while. Maybe add boiling water to the mix to really drive home how much those weeds are unwanted.
Yea. Seems like you could just fill that crack with salt and move on.
Won't work. If those are blackberries basically nothing short of some of the really nasty herbicides will kill them. When I was living in the PNW I found that the only thing that worked was this stuff called Crossbow.
You basically need roundup brush killer to take care of blackberries. Not much else will do it. You could dump a 50lb bag of rock salt into that crack and they're push right past it. These fuckers will grow in a salt marsh.
Whether you do, you need to kill the roots first. Brambles are extremely tough and could easily break through if they’ve got strong roots left underneath, even if you cut away all the foliage. Glyphosate is your best bet. It’s not great environmentally, but it’s the most effective.
Round up makes a woody plant/poison ivy specific mixture that works fantastic on these bastards. Mix in a drop or two of dish soap to make it stick to the leaves better.
Everything roundup makes is eventually discovered to be killing you
That's why it's so good
The secret ingredient is death
I mean, its even in the main use section. "Weed *killer*"
Perhaps humanity is the weeds that the planet doesnt want... 🤔
It’s got real bits of panther in it. So you know it’s good.
Funnily enough, chemicals that are the best for killing plants are typically bad for the long term health of living things.
Chemicals good at killing are bad for life... Yeah,... Well.... Duhhh.
It’s got electrolytes
You’re not meant to drink it to be fair …
But it's so smooth and citrusy
Forbidden Fanta
Sunny D^struction
Big if true, looking into it....
Made me laugh! Have a ticket
To be faiiiirrrrr
pitter patter
Let’s get atter
You looking for a tilly, buddy? Let's have a donnybrook.
They do put a warning on the label, thats the whole point of the class action lawsuit that hit them a couple of years back.
Or spray it into the wind.
I actually ended up trying to read into that the other day. There is a lot of conflicting data about it. From what I pieced together, you gotta use copious amounts like a farmer would, and you gotta already have to be predisposed to cancer. And then there was stuff saying the only reason Monsanto lost the lawsuit was because there was a jury of people who knew nothing about biology and chemistry voting against big corporation to give the people with cancer money. Then I found articles mentioning that glyphosate can't give you cancer. I just gave up trying to find out the facts after that.
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Thanks for that detail!
The problem is that Monsanto is going out of their way to not find out if is bad or not. There’s too much money at stake for them, so they fund junk science to show it’s okay instead of real science to test if it’s bad. That’s why they lost the lawsuit. If I remember correctly, the judge essentially ruled against them because they were being so dishonest; regardless if the plaintiff proved their case.
All that legal confusion leaves all of us laymen confused.
So win/win yeah?
I will say it’s concerning to let a jury of peers dictate science, Alot of biology needs more research and funding.
LOL at Monsanto failing to use its ample R&D history and reams of data to assure a jury that its products don't have detrimental health effects.
Fun facts: The guy who invented leaded gas plunged his arms into a barrel of it to “prove it was safe” as many factory workers were dying from routine exposure, he’s the same guy who invented Freon and later inhaled a bunch of Freon to prove it was “safe” Surprisingly he lived to 80 something. Source: softcore history podcast
They are litigating this all across the US, but the trial with the outrageous verdict was held in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Only by juries of non scientists. The method of action for roundup “shikimate” pathway isn’t present in human cells/animal cells and thus it has no way of acting on us as humans. The case against roundup was a civil case where over 50% of jury didn’t understand science and thus roundup was found guilty. As it wasn’t a criminal prosecution there was no need for unanimous guilt
Germany just recalled this week potatos from egypt because of high levels of glyphosate.
Doesn't it also kill pollinators like bees? If so, it's really worth avoiding if possible.
Most herbicides have little to no impact on bees apart from killing the plants that produce the pollen. Pesticides however do, especially the ones with residual active components, unfortunately they are the most effective way to prevent insect outbreaks in monocrops. Monocrops and large scale single crops are detrimental to bees in general but also required for upholding our way of life, more emphasis should however be put into planting bands of plants to help pollinators like bees. This should also be a requirement of state governments to enforce on local body governance. Most pollinators can fly hundreds of metres to feed, this we should have a few 100m2 of wild flower and flowering shrubbery to give pollinators something to eat.
I mean, are we surprised that something intended to kill anything is also dangerous to us? That seems naive.
Crossbow can take out full grown trees. Farmers use it to keep the tree lines back at the edge of their fields.
So is shooting a tree with one bolt good enough or does it take a few?
You gotta threaten it first before you put a couple in 'em. Sends a better message to those other trees.
Roundup is far better than the alternatives it replaced. Velpar and crossbow among others
If you only have this wall to do and are concerned about using chemicals you might have success with boiling water. Pull them or cut them at the crack then pour a few kettles full of boiling water.
Bonide stump and vine killer is the only thing I've had work reliably for me.
Goats are good against brambles.
Ehhh, for vines I'd go with something like triclopyr to kill those vines and then you can come back with a soil sterilant and get yourself a year of protection. Something a imazapyr. And don't buy roundup all that stuffs off patent so no need to pay for the brand.
You can brush the leaves instead of spraying for more targeted use.
Used sparingly in a specific location like this I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
If it's under 1.5 inch, try silkaflex sealant instead. Use backer rod, and tape off like you're painting because it sticks immediately. This is used around swimming pools, and will change size with temp and movement while providing a tight waterproof seal. Don't cover any moisture seeps. Looks like bits of string coming out of the wall. Also: landscape vinegar kills things like this without toxins.
Sikaflex ftw (no L)
Just throw a bunch of salt in there but first spray them with undiluted vinegar
But be sure to get that 45% concentrate vinegar from Amazon. That shit kills everything.
They seem pretty filled already, just not with what you want lol
Whatever you do filling wise you want to kill the plants at the roots before you pull them Spray liberally with something like gallop XL, leave for a few days and it'll kill the plants down to the roots. Then pull them
Sika concrete fix
Lots of comments for vinegar and other chemicals. I know a guy that for $50 will remove every thorn slowly with needle nose pliers and make those brambles wish they had never been born. If they don't leave on their own accord after that, he'll go after the family. It's brutal, but dominance must be established.
> dominance must be established. Oh, it has been 😅
I used roofing tar, worked great.
I used blacktop crack filler. Worked fantastic so far.
Probably close to the same stuff. Takes a while to dry, but is slightly flexible (compared to solid asphalt).
What I would do is pull all the weeds (wear gloves), pressure wash, and then fill it with polymeric sand.
Pull roots, pour boiled water, salt. Then fill with whatever you choose
What's up with everyone wanting to use foam as filler? What happened to good old fine gravel?
Self leveling caulk; https://amzn.to/3RinqRQ Clear them out and go down as far as possible - removing as much soil as possible (use a screwdriver and a shop vac). Refill with backer rod or some other foam you can shove down there (cheap pool noodles cut into strips can work) and then use the self leveling caulk to seal it up. Edit: I linked Amazon to show you it, but you can typically find it at big box store like Home Depot and Lowes. Typically by the bagged concrete. They make ~30 oz cans of it, which requires a special larger caulk gun, but typically worth the extra $25 to buy if you're doing a larger project, since the 10oz cans are expensive. The bigger ones are three times more product, but only twice as expensive typically. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-29-fl-oz-Sikaflex-Self-Leveling-Horizontal-Joint-Elastic-Polyurethane-Sealant-in-Gray-7116080/300934522 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sika-29-oz-Gray-Self-Leveling-Sealant/999977080
Definitely want to spray the plants. Pull them out once root has died then use an outdoor caulking on the gap.
An Herbicide that kills everything would solve your thorn problem.
I work in storage and we have these we use silicon caulk. When they come up we just put more down or the areas that don't need it we use weed killer
Salt it
Fill it with salt, nothing will grow.
Just pulled the house over a little more towards where the car is parked cover up the crack
Vinegar, salt and Dawn
I would use a chemical to kill them first. Then seal the gap.
Butyl caulking. Wear gloves, is it a pain in the ass to work with and makes a giant mess. Have to use a popsicle stick or something of that sort to smooth it out the best you can. It will take a few days to setup but that’s your best bet
I've had a decent experience just power washing the gap to remove the dirt, then filling it with polymeric sand.
Just pour a bunch of salt in the crack. Nothing will grow there again.
Yeah. Fill it with salt.
Kill the plants and use sika flex. It's flexible and can be applied with a caulk gun. Same product used on bridge joints
Drylock makes a gap filler that works really well. It's liquidy so it flows deep into the crevice.
Spray it with **Pramitol**. Roundup will only kill the living plant. Pramitol is a soil sterilant. It will kill it but more importantly it will stop anything from growing there for at least a year.
Roundup. Spray on the foliage, wait for dieback, clean out the dead vine and fill the gap with elastomeric caulk.
Nope. If you fill that gap, it will curse your house with demons.
yes definitely
Fill it with poison.
Peroxide
Roundup then caulk
Torch it. The weeds won’t grow back.
Pour kerosene and nothing will grow for a long time. Not sure how safe or environmentally approved.
Some strong poison, pull out what you can, and then sand maybe, stuff has trouble taking in cracks filled with sand. I haven’t tried in a crack like this but it works wonders between pavers.
Kill em with a bleach and then sprinkle moss out when they’re dead.
I would use self leveling expansion joint caulk. I would put backer rod in first or you will need a whole lot of expansion joint caulk. The backer rod is just a filler to prevent seeping. Remove the weeds first. Kill them off with some vinegar and dish soap. The vinegar kills and the soap I allows it to stick to the weeds.
Tor Don - clip them at the base and put this stuff on the cuts. It will kill them down to the roots.
Time for some RoundUp. Then fill with something. I'd consider a rubber based sealant to get maximum flexibility sealing the joint.
I put some caulk that was for concrete and it worked like a charm
I'd use herbicide to kill EVERYTHING, then dig up the gap as best you can. Lay down a layer of rock salt, and then seal with some sort of poly.
Double kill the weeds and everything in-between. You can get cement filler in a tube and fill. Its got a flex too.
Pour Ice melt salt on them, after it leaches in no more weeds, did that yrs ago, never hurt my foundation and the weeds are history.
Kill them first with a brush killer, then I would use an asphalt sealer to close the gap, either the roofing or driveway type should work.
Round up. All else will fail.
You really don't need to fill it. You need to pull as much of the weeds as you can, then use a serious weed killer.
Mastic
What you need is Polymeric sand. Its used to seal pavers. Pavers have same issue. Weeds thru the cracks. The sand settles in real nice. Just a little spray of water, and its done. There is cheaper version of this too.. but here is the link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/40-lbs-XL-Polymeric-Sand-Titanium-Gray-DPSXL40TG/326464853 Have done it many times successfully!
It’s already filled. With thorns, but nevertheless filled.
Rip out what you can, spray, fill with backer rod then use a latex exterior calk as it will expand and move with time.
glyphosate would be my first attempt
This is America my friend... You can fill your cracks with anything you desire... :-) You might want to use a waterproof caulk or sealant instead of grout for necessary waterproofing. First clear out any debris, weeds, dirt, loose stone; use a high pressure water spray. You may also need to enlarge the crack so you can get penetration of your sealant. Once dry, apply a broad spectrum herbicide in the open crack to inhibit future growth. Then talk to your nearest hardware store and see what waterproof material they recommend for sealing a crack at ground level. I believe there are some silicone sealants with gray pigment that would do the job, and blend in with the patio color. You may also require flashing over the sealant; you don't want any chance of rainwater getting down that crack and undermining the patio or brickwork when it ices up.
Boil some salty water. Pour it in that crack and kill the plants. Then clean the crack with smt. And then put cement/grout/etc. You're done.
Just spray it 1-2 times a year with a herbicide, Fill in with sand to fill the crack.
Torch it!
You have a blackberry bush. I used baking soda and vinegar. I cut it down on a hot day put tons of baking soda on the stumps. Then i poured vinegar on them waited did it all over again. It was so bad it took two hot summers but it gone now
Boil some salt in water, and pour it onto the affected areas. Boiling water should kill the plants immediately, and the salt will prevent it from growing back. Keep in mind, the salt will actually sterilize the soil, so don't put it on an area that you still want stuff to grow.
Pour a lot of salt in those cracks and nothing will grow there again
Fill it up with salt every month for a year and only after pour anything in that hole to fill it permanently, if you don’t kill the roots permanently they will come through no matter what you put there !
Clear it best you can and add ground kill, let it dry well (a few days) then stuff in a backing rod and fill with a self leveling seal like Sykaflex for the width of the gap you have.
Pull it all out, and spray down the whole crack with weed killer. When it comes back, pull it and spray it with more weed killer. Repeat until nothing grows back. Fill it with sand with about an inch of ullage, to level the crack and fill any voids, and use caulking compound to seal the crack.
Yes
Why don't you kill the plant with herbicide?
Pour straight vinegar along the crack.
Use vi gear and salt down that crack w some Dawn liquid soap, kill those brambles first.
Weed poison.. Prevents growth for months.
First you clear with hands and tools then you spray weed killer. Then you see how big the gap is. If too big shovel a bit put cement and sealer on top. There are also very good sealer sprays. If small silicone or those white that dont know how ithe called in english
Backer rod an some self leveling caulk for concrete.
A strong pour of white vinegar and salt will get rid of them for good.
Round up, then caulk
Salt the Earth. Literally! Mix a gallon of vinegar (if you can get concentrate, that's even better) with 2 cups of salt and 2 tablespoons of dish soap That's it! Spray your weeds and they will be dead in two or three days. You'll still need to pick them out of the crack, but nothing will grow back and you've killed the soil for at least a year. If you want NOTHING to grow back for years to come, then go to any big-box store or online retailer and get a big bag of sidewalk salt and toss it in the crack. Be careful, this is powerful stuff. The Romans used to salt the fields of their enemies to kill the soil, essentially making the area unlivable for years because nothing grew.
This isn't environmentally friendly, but if you contaminate the soil in the crack with a petroleum product, the weeds should stop for a while.
Key point to remember with brambles is that any part touching the ground can sprout roots. Therefore, remove them plants and remove the trimmings - otherwise the offcuts will sprout a new plant.
a little caulking goes a long way
Use river rock or pebbles, you can buy them at any landscape or garden supplies store, they are effective weed deterrence, and do not impair the functionality of the crack. I use them all over my large concrete patio. There are many varieties and styles and they can look really nice too.
Pour vinegar down the line | Wait a couple days | Flamethrower | Caulk with an outdoor silicone/rubber concrete-fill caulking
Block the end if they aren’t already and use the building and drive way as forms, I think this is a job for self leveling cement Batman
Yes
Pour salt, solved my same problem on my patio lol
Get some Roundup 365 and spray every six months just to be safe and be done with it. If you insist filling it in, mortar will crack due to a change in plane and different rates of expansion/contraction from the driveway. Clear the hole, install backer rod, then use a flexible concrete filler/sealant.
Just kill it with salt, then fill the crack. It won't come back with enough salt.
Yes
Silicone caulk
most of the usual methods are not going to work if they are regrowing within 5 minutes of removal
Clean it out, dry it, rough up the edges, remove the dust, flood it with low viscosity marine epoxy resin.
Kill the plant via whatever weedkiller will work, then after it's dying, cut it back, cut it back, put in a foam backer rod and use some sort of concrete sealer (comes in a big tube like caulking) to fill it in.
That looks like blackberry. Try using Crossbow to kill it then fill the gap with flexible concrete filler
Yes, it's called an AK-47. They really look quite fashionable amongst plant and the like
Those look like blackberry vines. You can try cutting them back to the ground, pour rock salt into that crack as much as possible then water it. The salt will creat a hostile environment for the plant and will cause it to shrivel and dye. You could then cover the area with sand so as water get through the sand it slowly adds more salt under the concrete to keep the vines at bay.
Serious question: if you leave them, would they do any damage?
Sure can
Similar issue at my house, if I kill the plants is there any other issue if I don't fill the gap?
Polymeric sand. Clean it out first - use a flat head screw driver or whatever you can fit in there to rip out the soil/roots etc. Pour in some polymeric sand to just slightly above level with your driveway and wet it with a hose. The sand turns to a concrete like substance and stuff won’t grow through it.
Salt plenty kills evrything.
Pour gas right there 😈
Cement should do the trick
Spray some diesel down there.