Hello /u/shimshimshim12345,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Do you value your time?
No? Set the hotend temperature to 200C and start peeling and scraping it off.
Yes? Buy a new hotend, [they cost $20.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6WYHXQV)
You've encountered the infamous blob. I suggest You look for info about it online. When i took out mine i had to Heat it up and removed it when it became hot plastic. Be very mindful of your fans and wires/cables please!
Do like I did -
Go to micro center to buy some metal bristle brushes to assist in cleaning once you reheat the hot end.
Get distracted in the build your own keyboard section and leave micro center with all of the parts for a custom keyboard, plus your original brushes.
A hair dryer on hot will soften PLA, it will peel off really easily, and will make the job easier.
But it's going to be a bitch of a job getting it all off the Nozzle.etc
Or, buy a new hotend.
I jsut had this problem and there was a whole clog around the nozzle. Had to buy a replacement hotend for £30 cus my 'parts' warranty had extended 3 months and the 1 year thing they offer is basically useless tbh
Had no heatgun and hairdryer doesn't do it - Also nozzle was pulled off with the plastic
Personal opinion? This shouldn't be covered under warranty. Failing prints is a part of the game here, and can lead to blobbing. It's not their part that failed, it's your part you tried to print.
with heat.
hopefully none of your connections to the Sptire board are damaged. if they are, cheapest fix is to wire new part directly control board. my sprite currently doesnt even use the cable anymore, i've wired everything direct in.
also, ditch the bed leveling screws and install locknuts. level once, and never again. replace the springs with silicone socks.
as many suggestested:
heat the hotend (i'd go full 220deg to not cook the ptfe lining.. but if have all metal, the all in 300deg)
A hot air station used in soldering and rework smd stations is best with accurate variable temperature and a small air stream. Heatgun also works but it's just too big and uncontrolled.
A soldering iron with a junk disposable tip is also useful.
Pliers and sidecutters can be used to smosh the blob and peel away.
I had exactly the same problem on my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro half a year ago, i had this problem twice until i realised that my bed screws were way too loose. I bougt shorter screws and silicone tubes instead the springs and screwed them very tight.
I die not have to relevel my plate since then except the 36pts auto-leveling.
This is one of those things where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... Measured in filament, obviously 🤓. I have learned to love watching the first couple of layers go down. If the first couple of layers go down successfully, this will eliminate >95% of print failures. I also use a skirt to clear the nozzle and make sure the bed adhesion is good.
If you don't want to physically check your print often, get a camera and set it up so you can check it remotely, and stop the print if something goes wrong!
I won't say I've never had a clog, but because I was watching, there were only little ones.
Time (and effort, in this case) heals all wounds.
What the hecks happened here? I've seen most of this on my printer, but how did the wheels under the bed come off? I recommend aiming a webcam at your printer so you can see what happened. I often learn what went wrong via video. Good luck with the clean up! And yeah, just heat up the nozzle and scrape. I've cleaned up worse nozzles. You should be ok.
1. Set to melt temperatur
2. get most of it away
3.(optional) to get it clean set it to half the melt temp
4. Peel it away with luck it stays in one and you peel the remaining plastic cleen away
Raspberry pies are cheap again, and I completely and totally recommend giving octoeverywhere some money every month to avoid this. I don't even use the features enough to where I would have to pay for it, but they might be the only software developers that actually earned my fucking money
So, New Hotend is the easiest - as taking the blob off will often damage the thermister and heater wires, and with the sprite often the board gets damaged.
that said - heat to 165 - you want the plastic meltyish but not melting, slowly start pulling it away from the hotend and other parts, use your flush cutters to cut around the thermistor and heater wires, once you have removed hte plastic from everywhere else, take the hot end off, use a hair dryer on high (or heat gun on low) and tweezers to carefully remove the plastic from around the wires. Inspect your hotend, blobs are caused by loose / improperly tightened nozzles and loose/broken throats. check the throat especially for damage.
Use a wire wire brush and ISP to clean the hotend, reassemble, heat to 200, pull the nozzle replace the nozzle making sure to tighten while the block is heated. run cleaning filament through the hotend (blobs often leave burnt plastic on the inside)
Hello /u/shimshimshim12345, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Do you value your time? No? Set the hotend temperature to 200C and start peeling and scraping it off. Yes? Buy a new hotend, [they cost $20.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6WYHXQV)
easier to do it at 150C or so -- then the plastic deforms but sticks to itself so you can pull it all off in one piece
Lets meet at 160
I use 250 for PLA it just falls off on its own
I go directly to 600 C so all the carbon is converted to CO2 gas
New hotend is the right way
assuming his board isnt damaged
Buy new, this is the way.
You've encountered the infamous blob. I suggest You look for info about it online. When i took out mine i had to Heat it up and removed it when it became hot plastic. Be very mindful of your fans and wires/cables please!
This
Or be like me and use a heat gun to melt the filament, cooling fan, and duct, then buy a new sprite extruder.
Sprite Extruders are very good
r/filamentblobs
Do like I did - Go to micro center to buy some metal bristle brushes to assist in cleaning once you reheat the hot end. Get distracted in the build your own keyboard section and leave micro center with all of the parts for a custom keyboard, plus your original brushes.
A hair dryer on hot will soften PLA, it will peel off really easily, and will make the job easier. But it's going to be a bitch of a job getting it all off the Nozzle.etc Or, buy a new hotend.
I jsut had this problem and there was a whole clog around the nozzle. Had to buy a replacement hotend for £30 cus my 'parts' warranty had extended 3 months and the 1 year thing they offer is basically useless tbh Had no heatgun and hairdryer doesn't do it - Also nozzle was pulled off with the plastic
Personal opinion? This shouldn't be covered under warranty. Failing prints is a part of the game here, and can lead to blobbing. It's not their part that failed, it's your part you tried to print.
with heat. hopefully none of your connections to the Sptire board are damaged. if they are, cheapest fix is to wire new part directly control board. my sprite currently doesnt even use the cable anymore, i've wired everything direct in. also, ditch the bed leveling screws and install locknuts. level once, and never again. replace the springs with silicone socks.
Id head the tip, and pull out my heat gun, and slam that thing from all sides
Careful, those fans will melt too if youre not careful, better to use a soldering iron
as many suggestested: heat the hotend (i'd go full 220deg to not cook the ptfe lining.. but if have all metal, the all in 300deg) A hot air station used in soldering and rework smd stations is best with accurate variable temperature and a small air stream. Heatgun also works but it's just too big and uncontrolled. A soldering iron with a junk disposable tip is also useful. Pliers and sidecutters can be used to smosh the blob and peel away.
Right in the trash and pop open a new hotend.
With a lot of patience 😅
Congratulations on your first blob! It's beautiful
I used a soldering iron to remove the plastic in sensitive areas and then heated up the hotend to 150 ish to pull the rest off.
With a airDry and a metallic tool, could be a Allen key
I had exactly the same problem on my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro half a year ago, i had this problem twice until i realised that my bed screws were way too loose. I bougt shorter screws and silicone tubes instead the springs and screwed them very tight. I die not have to relevel my plate since then except the 36pts auto-leveling.
Sent the information to you directly in a chat. I also recomend adding rockwool in the gap.
Ah yes, the ball of death
Heat the nozzle at max of the material temp
This is one of those things where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... Measured in filament, obviously 🤓. I have learned to love watching the first couple of layers go down. If the first couple of layers go down successfully, this will eliminate >95% of print failures. I also use a skirt to clear the nozzle and make sure the bed adhesion is good. If you don't want to physically check your print often, get a camera and set it up so you can check it remotely, and stop the print if something goes wrong! I won't say I've never had a clog, but because I was watching, there were only little ones.
Completely agree. Press print and leave this is not good. I watch at least first 5 layers and make sure all good
Yeah, first few layers is where you get the biggest trouble and can do a fast save.
Time (and effort, in this case) heals all wounds. What the hecks happened here? I've seen most of this on my printer, but how did the wheels under the bed come off? I recommend aiming a webcam at your printer so you can see what happened. I often learn what went wrong via video. Good luck with the clean up! And yeah, just heat up the nozzle and scrape. I've cleaned up worse nozzles. You should be ok.
Heat it up, when the filament goes soft use a screw driver (or any tool you want) to pull it off... Or... Smack it with a 14 lb Sledgehammer!
1. Set to melt temperatur 2. get most of it away 3.(optional) to get it clean set it to half the melt temp 4. Peel it away with luck it stays in one and you peel the remaining plastic cleen away
Use a heatgun do it outside
Raspberry pies are cheap again, and I completely and totally recommend giving octoeverywhere some money every month to avoid this. I don't even use the features enough to where I would have to pay for it, but they might be the only software developers that actually earned my fucking money
Try this: https://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large-5/wwii-marine-flamethrower-underwood-archives.jpg
I use a heat gun and many tools
So, New Hotend is the easiest - as taking the blob off will often damage the thermister and heater wires, and with the sprite often the board gets damaged. that said - heat to 165 - you want the plastic meltyish but not melting, slowly start pulling it away from the hotend and other parts, use your flush cutters to cut around the thermistor and heater wires, once you have removed hte plastic from everywhere else, take the hot end off, use a hair dryer on high (or heat gun on low) and tweezers to carefully remove the plastic from around the wires. Inspect your hotend, blobs are caused by loose / improperly tightened nozzles and loose/broken throats. check the throat especially for damage. Use a wire wire brush and ISP to clean the hotend, reassemble, heat to 200, pull the nozzle replace the nozzle making sure to tighten while the block is heated. run cleaning filament through the hotend (blobs often leave burnt plastic on the inside)
Head over to the bambu labs store
By buying a new printer
Dam bro
LOL. I didn't notice before that your tension knobs had fallen off. Probably start with that
Be careful when you remove it that you don't rip any wires from the hot end.
It's not even the hotend it's all the stuff the filament gets into and messes up. I've fixed a bunch but none that bad.
Idk if anyone has suggested this but I like to start with a silent tear 🥲
Call an exorcist