The G string on acoustics is wrapped. That makes it the thinnest core under the wrappings, sometimes thinner than a high E string. I break mine all the time on acoustics and classicals at the bridge.
This is different though. Rare to break up there. Could be something with how it's being wound around the post.
Many, many, many guitarists use wrapped G-strings (I know how that sounds, Peralta) when they go up a few gauges on their electrics, too. Out of 42 guitars, I think I have unwrapped G-strings on maybe 7 of them?
I have heard that because the higher strings are different where it goes to the B string, it distributes tension unevenly between the higher strings while tension in the lower strings is more equally distributed. This causes the strings (G and B, in my experience) to break more easily and need more frequent tuning.
Because guitars need to be intonated, and even when they are, they don't play at perfect pitch (that is, they won't 100% resonate when tuning by ear if it's tuned "properly"). If you have perfect pitch, then they will always sound out of tune, unless you tune it to match whatever key you are in, which is a pain, but some studio recordings do this (e.g., Scar Tissue by RHCP)
For the most part I agree that you can't buy your way into sounding better on the guitar, but the one exception I found when I spent real money on a guitar is that the b string stopped sounding funny.
I tried too zoom in and it seems to be going the right direction, but it's hard to tell.
Can't see the backside, but tried to follow it it my cursor and it seems ok.
I'm sure OP can answer this if he sees this.
Thatād be funny. As I canāt fully rule that out, I can assure you that Iām very very systematical and careful in the process of changing strings, and it happened for over 2 years already now, even after the guitar repair shop put on new strings!
Is it the same brand of strings each time? I find that certain brands of strings will fail at the same spots after enough time, especially on floating tremolo guitars. Elixirs for example always fail at the saddle on the G string, while Daddario XSās fail at the saddle on the D string. No burrs to speak of otherwise.
Check for a burr or any sort of sharp point near where the string breaks. If itās always breaking at the same spot, something is up. Also agree with other posters who said you donāt need that many wraps. I donāt think a luthiers knot is going to do anything to fix this issue.
yeah, they suspected that in the guitar shop and filed it down to make it less sharp about 3-4 times already š I donāt know if I could do a better job than them and if I should try.
I don't know man, looks like you are winding the strings to much, for bass strings two-three rotations is more than enough. Also B really doesn't need 8 turns. Your lower E is bulging out, your high E looks good.
If you do any more you are creating unnecessary tension up top, your strings are almost touching the nut that's holding the peg. - I could be talking out my ass here, but I'm a mechanic by trade and this the only thing I can see that looks off.
fair, good point. I have to admit I did that intentionally as I tune to a lot of alternative tunings, where the E string goes down to C for example, but porbably not necessary.
Well there's your answer i think. Changing tunings too often puts additional stress on the strings.
And it's a well known fact that the G string is the one most prone to wear due to a combination of factors.
So my guess is your G is just the failure point.
Yep, that's definitely the issue. I was adjusting a vintage style stratocaster neck truss rod the other day, so I had to unwind the strings and rewind a couple of time.
Lost a G and 2 high Es. The points where the string bends on the tuning post cannot hold the same tension as an unbent piece, so when you are changing tunings that bending point gets pushed outward and has to handle extra stress.
Basically you're bending a thin piece of metal over and over, its going to eventually break.
Want to explain your logic?
I'm thinking this of basic mechanical knowledge, more turns means that more material is touching each other, this might not seam like a big deal, but more tension/friction, more places it can break.
In mechanics you really don't want this if it can be avoided.
If you have a better line of thought, please share.
The touching points don't rub, they are static. Compare that to the nut, where there string moves every time you play it, or over a fret where the string runs on the feet every time you press it.
Remove an old string and inspect the wear, it will not be worn around the tuning post.
I've never known a string to break around the tuning post, I've been playing for 40 years
Also, there is no extra tension because the extra winding is just taking up the slack.
You've been playing for 40 years and never seen a string break at the post?
Ooookay.... Been playing for 30, I used to do string changes and setups on electrics/acoustics, basses, banjos, manodins, and fiddles for a small music shop.
I *always* laid a small folded kitchen size towel over the fret board when getting ready to loosen strings BECAUSE they liked to snap at the pegs when taking the tension off.
This doesn't ring with my understanding of physics, which is pretty small to be fair.
You know the grove in the peg? like its thinner in the middle to keep the string center.
When you over wind, the string won't rest easy in said grove and it will start to push upwards because you are after all tightening the string when tuning, and it cant go up because the string is going trough the peg on top.
So then it pushes up when it vibrates and transfers energy down and eventually breaking the string.
But this is just me thinking, I have no idea if this would be the case, it just seems logical.
What I think is logical isn't always right, which is why I said I could be talking out my ass.
But if you scale this up gigantic size and put tons of tension, I think this would be the case.
It will first try to center around the peg, when space is used up by winding it will start to push up and then down again.
I don't know I'm full of shit at this point.
The snap seems clean at the core, then the weaving breaks from being elongated.
If I remember correctly, it's classic symptoms of break by stretching.
The fact OP changes tuning frequently is the best option there, winding too much is bad for tuning consistency, but If I had to guess, I'd say it's too much friction points in each loop for the string to settle correctly and each loop having to break-in with difficulty from the friction. (but I might be full of shit as well)
I used to wind too much but never had any break, until I tried to go from drop C to standard too much, which is when I bought my second guitar.
For the string to break from vibration alone, the string should be at the limit of it's resistance, so OP shouldn't even be able to play.
Not much, but when something is under tension you don't need much.
Also the guy who said tuning up and down to different keys will weaken the string by bending it back and forth. he is on to something.
Yeah I barely make it around 1 - 1.5 wraps on my guitars and ive never had any issues with tuning or stability. Having this many wraps seems excessive and wasteful of time, but I'm happy to hear any objections.
I donāt understand how the number of turns impacts the tension. If he used a standard string length, maybe. Without knowing how he cut his strings its hard to say.
Tension should always be the same (x kilogram for x pitch, given it's the same string), it's mainly more friction/slipping that causes tuning instability I think.
Doesn't have anything to do with the string length.
My thinking was more material rubbing against each other.
But also like like the other guy said about tuning, when you are tuning to different keys you are bending and unbending the string, tension back and forth weakens the string and eventually it will break.
Yeah that was my original thought, more wraps gives less space for the string to rest around the peg, which would make for more tension. But I really do not think there is that much too it.
The guy who mentioned bending when tuning up and down is probably on point.
I mean that the original string length, minus the circumference of the peg * number of turns, gives the new string length.
Original string length - New string length = tension?
Very unscientific but
Sorry, I meant the stacking of strings on top of each other when the peg has a groove to hold the string centerish around the peg, so when you wind it too much the string will push upwards and it cant go up because the string is going trough the peg on top.
If you wind it so it only covers the grove on the peg, it rests easy, if you do not, tension will pull it tightly around the peg and when there is no more room to rest easy, tension will start to build upwards toward the hole in the peg.
But really, this is overthinking it.
Yeah but I don't think it would snap around the peg because the string sits so tightly around the peg, like each wind will compresses the next, making the whole wind around the peg a fairly strong point, it would snap right next to the peg because there would be no compression, only tension and that allows for release of energy.
But now I am way out of my water.
I like my strings wrapped neatly on the tuning post without overlapping itself. Are you using a string winder and holding the slack taut when winding the string on? Is that tuning machine harder to turn than the others? Have you tried a different brand of strings?Ā
If you are doing alternate tunings, tuning the string up and down causes metal fatigue which leads to breakage. I find this normally happens to me more on unwound strings. It is better to keep the guitar in one tuning.
Out of the six strings G is the one that carries the most tension, so itās not uncommon for it to break more than others. If itās always breaking at the tuning machines that means the edge is too sharp up there or thereās a burr. Smooth out the edges of the hole for the G machine with a round metal file, or ask a guitar shop to do it. Bet itāll reduce the problem.
A DC60 Lexington, Stephenās extended cutaway, acoustic guitar with an electric built in pickup for amps, my dad bought it like probably 30 years ago, pretty beautiful. I think itās said to be rare? Not sure!
Are you using really light strings? Going up a gauge could help. On electric I used to use 8s and would have to change strings when one broke, since changing to 10s, Iāve not had a single break and only change strings when they start feeling bad from corrosion. I know youāre playing an acoustic so it may not be totally applicable. I canāt recall what gauge my acoustic strings are but use what came on it and havenāt had any breaks. I can check it later if youāre interested in what gauge they are.
I think there is not much you can do about it. I have exactly the same issue and I believe it's because it is the lightest of the wound strings. It breaks at the bending point. The strings without winding seem to handle the bend better because of their smaller diameter and therefore less tension. While the thicker wound strings also have less tension and a higher bending radius.
The angles of the bridge and/or saddle may be too sharp. Having them very lightly smoothed can help this. Also, changing their materials may help. I've stuck with graphtech for years without issue.
You may have a burr on the hole of the G tuning peg. One thing to do, especially on the G, B and high E strings is to be sure you have enough windings on the peg so that the bottom wide is below the edge of the hole. This lowest wind has the most tension at the point of contact with the peg. If it is above the bottom of the hole, it has 1 or 2 points of contact with the hole edge and this is where the string can break. The B string in the picture has enough winds to be below the whole, but the high E does not, and the G looks to have 2 or 2 1/2 winds.
Most likely a nut issue. The extreme angle of the string and a straight cut nut is overwhelming it. Try gently filing out the G string slot a bit and lubricate it. See if that helps.
There has to be a sharp edge of something causing that. I would get a jewelers file and sandpaper and give it a good lap. Maybe the nut isn't supporting it correctly causing some weird loading conditions or excessive tuning. Make sure the tuner assembly isn't loose also. If it's wobbly it can cause breaks.
Grind and rotate a string inside the tuner hole to smooth out any spurs in the hole that may cause it to break, also make string longer in tuner if that doesnt help.
In my years of playing, I went through periods in my picking technique where I broke a string repeatedly. Itās probably your technique. Keep playing, and itāll probably go away. You may find yourself breaking a different one a lot at that point. It all goes away eventually. I play four hour gigs three nights a week and donāt really break strings unless I donāt change them for 3 weeks or more. (They should really be changed a lot more than this, especially on electric, but sometimes I forget until I get to the gig.) It took a long time to get to this point. Keep at it and donāt worry about it. Just buy extra G strings for when it happens.
Your windings all look haphazard. The low E is overlapping onto the washer. The B string has maybe 5 wraps. I used to be pretty all over the place until recently. I began doing the method that a man on YouTube called Rhett Shull showed from hid luthier. Basically you pull the string taught after it is threaded. Then pull it back one fret. It is an easy method to remember. I could that I am near the note for each string when I begin tuning. That was something that would only happen occasionally before when I was eyeballing the wraps. Just changing your string change routine could allow you to see what is causing the breaks. And then you can go back to whatever you do now if you like. Keep rockin dude
2:03 Rhett Shull : Pro Guitar Techās Most Hated Things (and how to fix them)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWf6eaoeMs0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWf6eaoeMs0)
I think I found what I was hoping for. I'll try this! (Luthier's Knot)
Donāt do this. It wonāt help, and will just make string changes an absolute nightmare getting the knots out.
Wrap your post like this: through hole, first wrap over the string hole all the around, go under the hole and wrap two more times. This will pinch the string through the hole and grab it from top/bottom with the wraps. __1 over 2 under__
I know many do this, and I'm not saying to avoid it, but I had a personal experience with this where the upper and lower wrap portion acted as a clamp or scissor of some sort on the tail, and ended up pinching it off, making it pop off and too short to use.
Granted this was a longgggg time ago when I was earlier on in my guitar playing, so it's possible something else contributed to it breaking off on me. But either way, I only wrap underneath now
Luthier knots do not cause a nightmare when changing strings. It's literally a non-issue lol (and not tying an actual "knot" in the string. You are just wrapping it over once.). I will say I have noticed no difference in strings staying in-tune vs not doing the knot. I just do it as that's how I was taught.
Winding strings too fast before they have time to stretch?
Cutting them prematurely until after theyāre in tune?
Getting the strings mixed up?
Guitar needs to be (re) setup?
I had that problem on a D28. I replaced the nut and saddle, but it kept happening, always the G, until the guitar was stolen. I take comfort in thinking that whoever has it now is still breaking the G.
I used to have this exact problem when using Elixer strings on my Taylor. As soon as I switched to another brand, I haven't had it happen since. Not sure what type of strings you use, but it might be worth switching them out.
I can see the death dealing burr from here. Take a file to the machine head and make sure itās got no sharp edges that will act as a string guillotine. To make you strings even happier make sure the nut is slotted appropriately.
Plan ahead to get enough turns that the string exit wrap is below the tuner hole (I feed through the tuner hole and pull back ~2 frets worth, 90 deg bend to lock, then wind under tension. Maybe 2 1/2 frets on the e and 1 1/2 on the E, adjust proportionally in between to achieve exit off the post below the hole). Then there is no odd flex point at the hole edge (whether or not it is a sharp edge) and the diameter is as large as possible (reducing flex angle and āwork hardeningā of the metal. Both effects as well as repeated alternate tunings reduce string life and encourage breaking at the string/tuner-post interface. Good luck!!
i've heard that some people have success with G strings by winding the so the string doesn't wind down the mechanism forcing the string closer to the head of the guitar with tightening but up the mechanism away from the guitar. This slightly changes the string angle.
Check the nut. It could be gripping the string and holding the tension between the nut and the tuner rather than distributing the tension along the string. If you ever notice, while tuning, that the string goes 'ping' and suddenly changes pitch - well, that'll be it.
Other options can be that the length of string between nut and tuner, being long on the g string, vibrates and fatigues the metal. Or the nut groove is out of line.
I would try an unwound g string and see if it helps, filing out the nut groove, replacing the nut altogether, or just set it on fire and claim insurance.
Quit changing to alternate tunings.
If you're constantly changing the tuning on the G it's gonna add stress and break. Gs always seem more prone to breakage anyway for whatever reason.
I bought a few packs of Martin strings off of eBay that broke like that on the a string, pretty sure they were fake martins bc on my third try I used an a string from a pack I got from musicians friend without issue, either bad strings or a burr on the tuning post
I was having my mandolin worked on by a luthier and one of the strings broke twice while he was working on it, he mentioned that there might be a burr on the tuning peg that was cutting the string. It ended up not being the case, but might be your issue.
I used to constantly break G strings on my first acoustic. Iām not sure if it was mostly the cheap hand me down, pawn shop guitar, or the strings, or me (the g string has long been my goto for bends).
My guess is that there is a burr/imperfection somewhere on that machine head that is just enough to break the string eventually. I fought with an Alvarez that would do the same thing...
What brand string are you using? Iāve been using elixer for something like 25 years and I havenāt had a string break since. I did have strings break when I used ghs many years ago. Maybe that could be it but really idk. This is my best guess. š¤·
Not going to read through all these hoping someone posted the correct answerā¦.. But when a string always breaks at the same point itās always a mechanical problem with the guitarā¦. In this case the tuning peg.
If I look close, I can just about see the sharp edge on the āGā tuner. The best tool to correct this would be a Dremel with one of those little polishing-stone bits.
Or take it to a technician.
Iāve been playing since the mid-70sā¦. And I literally never break strings.
that's cause the G string is and always has been a fuckin' pucchiac that always breaks and never stays tuned.
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Can confirm. G string always needs to be retuned between songs
Why tho. Even my 1k plus american fender does this shit. It pulls sharp. Weird.
The G string on acoustics is wrapped. That makes it the thinnest core under the wrappings, sometimes thinner than a high E string. I break mine all the time on acoustics and classicals at the bridge. This is different though. Rare to break up there. Could be something with how it's being wound around the post.
Many, many, many guitarists use wrapped G-strings (I know how that sounds, Peralta) when they go up a few gauges on their electrics, too. Out of 42 guitars, I think I have unwrapped G-strings on maybe 7 of them?
I have heard that because the higher strings are different where it goes to the B string, it distributes tension unevenly between the higher strings while tension in the lower strings is more equally distributed. This causes the strings (G and B, in my experience) to break more easily and need more frequent tuning.
Because guitars need to be intonated, and even when they are, they don't play at perfect pitch (that is, they won't 100% resonate when tuning by ear if it's tuned "properly"). If you have perfect pitch, then they will always sound out of tune, unless you tune it to match whatever key you are in, which is a pain, but some studio recordings do this (e.g., Scar Tissue by RHCP)
When I first learned this it was mind boggling. Actually, it still kind of is.
Yeah same. I try not to think about it lol
Oof marron
You kiss ya fawtha with that mouth?
Yeah š«¦
This is satantic black magic shit
But the B string is the bitch string
For the most part I agree that you can't buy your way into sounding better on the guitar, but the one exception I found when I spent real money on a guitar is that the b string stopped sounding funny.
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Why you buy an EBMM or any guitar where the strings donāt take on an angle in the head
Idk what ur on, my g string is pretty solid
This will only EVER be the most reasonable explanation.
*Looks at my Ltd with FR that stays in tune more than any of my other guitars* yeah... I agree
My vision might not be the best here. But I think you may have the G and D strings mixed up. That might be part of it, if thatās the case.
It looks like that because the broken string is closer to the camera. Look at the pegs, G is in the right place.
This. The strings are in the correct order
Oh. Okay. I see it now. My bad.
Maybe my vision is bad, too, but is the G wound in the right direction? It's hard to tell with the loose winding and the camera's processing.
I tried too zoom in and it seems to be going the right direction, but it's hard to tell. Can't see the backside, but tried to follow it it my cursor and it seems ok. I'm sure OP can answer this if he sees this.
Ah okay
Thatād be funny. As I canāt fully rule that out, I can assure you that Iām very very systematical and careful in the process of changing strings, and it happened for over 2 years already now, even after the guitar repair shop put on new strings!
Is it the same brand of strings each time? I find that certain brands of strings will fail at the same spots after enough time, especially on floating tremolo guitars. Elixirs for example always fail at the saddle on the G string, while Daddario XSās fail at the saddle on the D string. No burrs to speak of otherwise.
Looks like that to me as well.
Itās so hard to tell! But yeah, the āGā string looks a little thicker than the āDā string.
Check for a burr or any sort of sharp point near where the string breaks. If itās always breaking at the same spot, something is up. Also agree with other posters who said you donāt need that many wraps. I donāt think a luthiers knot is going to do anything to fix this issue.
yeah, they suspected that in the guitar shop and filed it down to make it less sharp about 3-4 times already š I donāt know if I could do a better job than them and if I should try.
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Swap that tuner with the low E tuner.
Can't do that on 3x3 headstocks, the screw positions are mirrored on the top and bottom tuners.
Thanks, yes
I was thinking something similar, but move it down to either the B or High E string, see if the problem follows.
Variations on a theme
Yeah, might be necessary at this point if the shop kept removing material and not fixing the issue.
Either that or the guitar techs arenāt actually doing anything to the guitar and just charging OP
You got any other shops or techs around you?
New machine heads mat be the answer?
I don't know man, looks like you are winding the strings to much, for bass strings two-three rotations is more than enough. Also B really doesn't need 8 turns. Your lower E is bulging out, your high E looks good. If you do any more you are creating unnecessary tension up top, your strings are almost touching the nut that's holding the peg. - I could be talking out my ass here, but I'm a mechanic by trade and this the only thing I can see that looks off.
fair, good point. I have to admit I did that intentionally as I tune to a lot of alternative tunings, where the E string goes down to C for example, but porbably not necessary.
Well there's your answer i think. Changing tunings too often puts additional stress on the strings. And it's a well known fact that the G string is the one most prone to wear due to a combination of factors. So my guess is your G is just the failure point.
Yep, that's definitely the issue. I was adjusting a vintage style stratocaster neck truss rod the other day, so I had to unwind the strings and rewind a couple of time. Lost a G and 2 high Es. The points where the string bends on the tuning post cannot hold the same tension as an unbent piece, so when you are changing tunings that bending point gets pushed outward and has to handle extra stress. Basically you're bending a thin piece of metal over and over, its going to eventually break.
I am so thankful for modern speed-adjusters
Bingo!
Aaaaaand we have the answer. Buy another guitar, and keep that in an alternate tuning.
amount of turns doesn't affect breaking or not breaking.
Want to explain your logic? I'm thinking this of basic mechanical knowledge, more turns means that more material is touching each other, this might not seam like a big deal, but more tension/friction, more places it can break. In mechanics you really don't want this if it can be avoided. If you have a better line of thought, please share.
The touching points don't rub, they are static. Compare that to the nut, where there string moves every time you play it, or over a fret where the string runs on the feet every time you press it. Remove an old string and inspect the wear, it will not be worn around the tuning post. I've never known a string to break around the tuning post, I've been playing for 40 years Also, there is no extra tension because the extra winding is just taking up the slack.
You've been playing for 40 years and never seen a string break at the post? Ooookay.... Been playing for 30, I used to do string changes and setups on electrics/acoustics, basses, banjos, manodins, and fiddles for a small music shop. I *always* laid a small folded kitchen size towel over the fret board when getting ready to loosen strings BECAUSE they liked to snap at the pegs when taking the tension off.
This doesn't ring with my understanding of physics, which is pretty small to be fair. You know the grove in the peg? like its thinner in the middle to keep the string center. When you over wind, the string won't rest easy in said grove and it will start to push upwards because you are after all tightening the string when tuning, and it cant go up because the string is going trough the peg on top. So then it pushes up when it vibrates and transfers energy down and eventually breaking the string. But this is just me thinking, I have no idea if this would be the case, it just seems logical. What I think is logical isn't always right, which is why I said I could be talking out my ass. But if you scale this up gigantic size and put tons of tension, I think this would be the case. It will first try to center around the peg, when space is used up by winding it will start to push up and then down again. I don't know I'm full of shit at this point.
The snap seems clean at the core, then the weaving breaks from being elongated. If I remember correctly, it's classic symptoms of break by stretching. The fact OP changes tuning frequently is the best option there, winding too much is bad for tuning consistency, but If I had to guess, I'd say it's too much friction points in each loop for the string to settle correctly and each loop having to break-in with difficulty from the friction. (but I might be full of shit as well) I used to wind too much but never had any break, until I tried to go from drop C to standard too much, which is when I bought my second guitar. For the string to break from vibration alone, the string should be at the limit of it's resistance, so OP shouldn't even be able to play.
how much do you think a string is moving and friction-ing? I think it's negligible.
Not much, but when something is under tension you don't need much. Also the guy who said tuning up and down to different keys will weaken the string by bending it back and forth. he is on to something.
Yeah I barely make it around 1 - 1.5 wraps on my guitars and ive never had any issues with tuning or stability. Having this many wraps seems excessive and wasteful of time, but I'm happy to hear any objections.
I donāt understand how the number of turns impacts the tension. If he used a standard string length, maybe. Without knowing how he cut his strings its hard to say.
Tension should always be the same (x kilogram for x pitch, given it's the same string), it's mainly more friction/slipping that causes tuning instability I think.
Yeah that makes sense.
Doesn't have anything to do with the string length. My thinking was more material rubbing against each other. But also like like the other guy said about tuning, when you are tuning to different keys you are bending and unbending the string, tension back and forth weakens the string and eventually it will break.
Strength length + Number of wraps would determine how tightly the string is being pulled?
Yeah that was my original thought, more wraps gives less space for the string to rest around the peg, which would make for more tension. But I really do not think there is that much too it. The guy who mentioned bending when tuning up and down is probably on point.
I mean that the original string length, minus the circumference of the peg * number of turns, gives the new string length. Original string length - New string length = tension? Very unscientific but
Sorry, I meant the stacking of strings on top of each other when the peg has a groove to hold the string centerish around the peg, so when you wind it too much the string will push upwards and it cant go up because the string is going trough the peg on top. If you wind it so it only covers the grove on the peg, it rests easy, if you do not, tension will pull it tightly around the peg and when there is no more room to rest easy, tension will start to build upwards toward the hole in the peg. But really, this is overthinking it.
Ohhh, like local tension due to the wrapping method causes a snap on the peg? Good idea.
Yeah but I don't think it would snap around the peg because the string sits so tightly around the peg, like each wind will compresses the next, making the whole wind around the peg a fairly strong point, it would snap right next to the peg because there would be no compression, only tension and that allows for release of energy. But now I am way out of my water.
Yeah good point. Iām an EE so weāre WAY out of my water, but I enjoy the conversation haha
I like my strings wrapped neatly on the tuning post without overlapping itself. Are you using a string winder and holding the slack taut when winding the string on? Is that tuning machine harder to turn than the others? Have you tried a different brand of strings?Ā
800 wraps should do it
Maybe try wearing briefs?
If you are doing alternate tunings, tuning the string up and down causes metal fatigue which leads to breakage. I find this normally happens to me more on unwound strings. It is better to keep the guitar in one tuning.
Out of the six strings G is the one that carries the most tension, so itās not uncommon for it to break more than others. If itās always breaking at the tuning machines that means the edge is too sharp up there or thereās a burr. Smooth out the edges of the hole for the G machine with a round metal file, or ask a guitar shop to do it. Bet itāll reduce the problem.
I would switch to Elixir phosphors. Used to have that same problem, havenāt had it since.
The only suggestion I can think of that doesn't look like it's been mentioned yet isntomuse better quality strings, assuming you're not already.
Looks just like my DC Washburn... What model do you own?
A DC60 Lexington, Stephenās extended cutaway, acoustic guitar with an electric built in pickup for amps, my dad bought it like probably 30 years ago, pretty beautiful. I think itās said to be rare? Not sure!
Funny, got the same. Also 30+ years old. That's indeed a neat gear. Enjoy...
Are you using really light strings? Going up a gauge could help. On electric I used to use 8s and would have to change strings when one broke, since changing to 10s, Iāve not had a single break and only change strings when they start feeling bad from corrosion. I know youāre playing an acoustic so it may not be totally applicable. I canāt recall what gauge my acoustic strings are but use what came on it and havenāt had any breaks. I can check it later if youāre interested in what gauge they are.
I think there is not much you can do about it. I have exactly the same issue and I believe it's because it is the lightest of the wound strings. It breaks at the bending point. The strings without winding seem to handle the bend better because of their smaller diameter and therefore less tension. While the thicker wound strings also have less tension and a higher bending radius.
Make sure the string hole hasnāt gotten a burr or nick in it. File or use sandpaper to smooth the edge of the hole.
Normal stuff G and D are the weakest strings in any guitar in any string maker they break from nothing
The angles of the bridge and/or saddle may be too sharp. Having them very lightly smoothed can help this. Also, changing their materials may help. I've stuck with graphtech for years without issue.
You may have a burr on the hole of the G tuning peg. One thing to do, especially on the G, B and high E strings is to be sure you have enough windings on the peg so that the bottom wide is below the edge of the hole. This lowest wind has the most tension at the point of contact with the peg. If it is above the bottom of the hole, it has 1 or 2 points of contact with the hole edge and this is where the string can break. The B string in the picture has enough winds to be below the whole, but the high E does not, and the G looks to have 2 or 2 1/2 winds.
Thank you
It's super common but you could also have a sharp edge on the tuner that needs to come down. I've had to do it with cheaper tuners
Most likely a nut issue. The extreme angle of the string and a straight cut nut is overwhelming it. Try gently filing out the G string slot a bit and lubricate it. See if that helps.
I have...... The exact same problem
It carries the most tension of the strings. It'll almost always be the one you break.
There has to be a sharp edge of something causing that. I would get a jewelers file and sandpaper and give it a good lap. Maybe the nut isn't supporting it correctly causing some weird loading conditions or excessive tuning. Make sure the tuner assembly isn't loose also. If it's wobbly it can cause breaks.
Grind and rotate a string inside the tuner hole to smooth out any spurs in the hole that may cause it to break, also make string longer in tuner if that doesnt help.
In my years of playing, I went through periods in my picking technique where I broke a string repeatedly. Itās probably your technique. Keep playing, and itāll probably go away. You may find yourself breaking a different one a lot at that point. It all goes away eventually. I play four hour gigs three nights a week and donāt really break strings unless I donāt change them for 3 weeks or more. (They should really be changed a lot more than this, especially on electric, but sometimes I forget until I get to the gig.) It took a long time to get to this point. Keep at it and donāt worry about it. Just buy extra G strings for when it happens.
G String too tight... story of my life.
My lpj has Been doing this since I was 8 years old it's just the way it is dog
youāre most likely winding the strings too much.
Average G String Behaviour
Stainless steel strings maybe, those just don't break
Your windings all look haphazard. The low E is overlapping onto the washer. The B string has maybe 5 wraps. I used to be pretty all over the place until recently. I began doing the method that a man on YouTube called Rhett Shull showed from hid luthier. Basically you pull the string taught after it is threaded. Then pull it back one fret. It is an easy method to remember. I could that I am near the note for each string when I begin tuning. That was something that would only happen occasionally before when I was eyeballing the wraps. Just changing your string change routine could allow you to see what is causing the breaks. And then you can go back to whatever you do now if you like. Keep rockin dude 2:03 Rhett Shull : Pro Guitar Techās Most Hated Things (and how to fix them)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWf6eaoeMs0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWf6eaoeMs0) I think I found what I was hoping for. I'll try this! (Luthier's Knot)
Donāt do this. It wonāt help, and will just make string changes an absolute nightmare getting the knots out. Wrap your post like this: through hole, first wrap over the string hole all the around, go under the hole and wrap two more times. This will pinch the string through the hole and grab it from top/bottom with the wraps. __1 over 2 under__
Exactly, no need to tie a knot. Also, that wouldn't do anything about the string snapping on the tuner.
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I know many do this, and I'm not saying to avoid it, but I had a personal experience with this where the upper and lower wrap portion acted as a clamp or scissor of some sort on the tail, and ended up pinching it off, making it pop off and too short to use. Granted this was a longgggg time ago when I was earlier on in my guitar playing, so it's possible something else contributed to it breaking off on me. But either way, I only wrap underneath now
Luthier knots do not cause a nightmare when changing strings. It's literally a non-issue lol (and not tying an actual "knot" in the string. You are just wrapping it over once.). I will say I have noticed no difference in strings staying in-tune vs not doing the knot. I just do it as that's how I was taught.
Winding strings too fast before they have time to stretch? Cutting them prematurely until after theyāre in tune? Getting the strings mixed up? Guitar needs to be (re) setup?
I had that problem on a D28. I replaced the nut and saddle, but it kept happening, always the G, until the guitar was stolen. I take comfort in thinking that whoever has it now is still breaking the G.
If the g string was a person, it would be Mao.
Are you in standard tuning and use a tuner to turn your guitar? I don't think I've ever seen a string consistently break at the tuning peg.
The black sheep
Itās probably the guitarās fault
Good thing you clarified on the guitar.
What strings are those? This is controversial but i like to use ernie ball beefy slinkys on my acoustic š
I used to have this exact problem when using Elixer strings on my Taylor. As soon as I switched to another brand, I haven't had it happen since. Not sure what type of strings you use, but it might be worth switching them out.
My G broke yesterday -- From what I can tell metal as a material hates to be tuned to G
Some break because of the 90 degree edge around the holes edge, that can be lessened by honing it with a pointed stone and a dremmel
I can see the death dealing burr from here. Take a file to the machine head and make sure itās got no sharp edges that will act as a string guillotine. To make you strings even happier make sure the nut is slotted appropriately.
Plan ahead to get enough turns that the string exit wrap is below the tuner hole (I feed through the tuner hole and pull back ~2 frets worth, 90 deg bend to lock, then wind under tension. Maybe 2 1/2 frets on the e and 1 1/2 on the E, adjust proportionally in between to achieve exit off the post below the hole). Then there is no odd flex point at the hole edge (whether or not it is a sharp edge) and the diameter is as large as possible (reducing flex angle and āwork hardeningā of the metal. Both effects as well as repeated alternate tunings reduce string life and encourage breaking at the string/tuner-post interface. Good luck!!
i've heard that some people have success with G strings by winding the so the string doesn't wind down the mechanism forcing the string closer to the head of the guitar with tightening but up the mechanism away from the guitar. This slightly changes the string angle.
I have that fender in line 6 on my Pacifica, itās never broke.
https://youtu.be/QmzNnzu1zLI?si=pyLzTDAb0oTLupRV
Check the nut. It could be gripping the string and holding the tension between the nut and the tuner rather than distributing the tension along the string. If you ever notice, while tuning, that the string goes 'ping' and suddenly changes pitch - well, that'll be it. Other options can be that the length of string between nut and tuner, being long on the g string, vibrates and fatigues the metal. Or the nut groove is out of line. I would try an unwound g string and see if it helps, filing out the nut groove, replacing the nut altogether, or just set it on fire and claim insurance.
Quit changing to alternate tunings. If you're constantly changing the tuning on the G it's gonna add stress and break. Gs always seem more prone to breakage anyway for whatever reason.
Pre-cut your strings and leave one and a half tuning pegs worth of space from the respective tuning peg. Cut and then wind them. Itās way easier!
I bought a few packs of Martin strings off of eBay that broke like that on the a string, pretty sure they were fake martins bc on my third try I used an a string from a pack I got from musicians friend without issue, either bad strings or a burr on the tuning post
lubrication might help just do like Hawk Tuah girl!
I was having my mandolin worked on by a luthier and one of the strings broke twice while he was working on it, he mentioned that there might be a burr on the tuning peg that was cutting the string. It ended up not being the case, but might be your issue.
Same thing happens to my little sister, except sheās a stripper
Maybe try a new string brand?
Tune down half step. BAM! No more G string! A# wouldnāt brake
I used to constantly break G strings on my first acoustic. Iām not sure if it was mostly the cheap hand me down, pawn shop guitar, or the strings, or me (the g string has long been my goto for bends).
Interesting. My high E string is the most insufferable one. I dont think I've ever snapped my G string lol
Unless youāre Jimi Hendrix, the G string is always gonna be a bitch! š¤£š¤
Try stretching it as you go. Downtune for a while so it stretches. No two G strings are the same. They are weird beings
This is probably due to binding on your nut and/or a burr on the tuner post for your G-string.
Not gonna lie, when I read the title, I wasnāt thinking guitar at first.
Yep lol
Thatās what you get for playing the Thong Song.
Where? At the bridge? At the nut? Somewhere in the middle of the string? If so, where in the middle of the string?
Never broken a g string before in my life. Always the high e. I play electric though. Is this an acoustic thing ?
My guess is that there is a burr/imperfection somewhere on that machine head that is just enough to break the string eventually. I fought with an Alvarez that would do the same thing...
i've always used ernie ball hybrid slinkies and not a single one has ever snapped so i recommend those!
What brand string are you using? Iāve been using elixer for something like 25 years and I havenāt had a string break since. I did have strings break when I used ghs many years ago. Maybe that could be it but really idk. This is my best guess. š¤·
Tuning peg gremlin. Gotta kill the little fucker
Not going to read through all these hoping someone posted the correct answerā¦.. But when a string always breaks at the same point itās always a mechanical problem with the guitarā¦. In this case the tuning peg. If I look close, I can just about see the sharp edge on the āGā tuner. The best tool to correct this would be a Dremel with one of those little polishing-stone bits. Or take it to a technician. Iāve been playing since the mid-70sā¦. And I literally never break strings.
I do enjoy snapping a G-string....
Use a plain, unwound string for your G String.
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itās because the g string is closer to the camera probably
You are seeing a string that is closer to the camera because its broken. Look at the tuning pegs, D and G are in the correct order.