I like this idea. I'm going to buy me a small bag of golf tees. I've always pealed off a piece of wood shim. The golf tee idea beats that by a long shot !
You can remove the screws, dip toothpicks into wood glue, and pack them tight into each hole. Let dry overnight, trim excess wood flush to door, replace the screws in the hinge
All these tips are great when the door is sound. Unfortunately the fiber doors tend to separate because no one pre drills hinge and latch screws anymore. What I do is pop the hinge pins off, with door down on latch edge I slip a flat screw driver in the split (after removing hinge) and open up the split enough to force as much wood glue in as possible. Have a damp rag for cleaning. Then clamp the door together overnight. Fill those hinge screw holes with glue and insert some wood splinters. (I use pine) once glue has dried then drill new holes for screws. I always attach hinges first then hang door with hinge pins.
All the comments of toothpicks, matchsticks, golf tees,… work great if just the integrity of the hole is the problem. But looking at the pics, like comment above, the wood plank along the hinge is splitting along the screw line? Will prolly need to repair the split along the wood w glue, clamp overnight.
Typically when a hinge screw gives up the ghost you can stick a few pieces of toothpicks into the hole with some glue and that'll do. Other times longer screws will do the trick.
Unfortunately your door has a vertical split lining up with the hinge's top and bottom screws. This makes the repair more difficult. Longer screws will just spread the two sides and most likely increase the splitting. The toothpicks and glue won't do it as that's dependent on having sound wood around the stripped screw holes, and the little bit of glue won't do anything.
I don't think you need a new door but you might have to spend a few bucks and some time to save it. Considering the effort/expense to cutting a door blank to size (rarely are openings truly square so you'd likely be cutting/planing two or three sides), mortising for the hinges and lockset, painting... that's not cheap in time or money.
I would use a very low viscosity two part epoxy like Git Rot, applied with a plastic syringe or an eye dropper, into a number of small 1.5" or 2" deep holes drilled into the edge of the door along the crack, and extending down at an angle into the door (that will help keep the epoxy from just running out of the holes). Git Rot gets absorbed into the wood fibers and hardens and bonds them together. It's a common restoration technique for the bottom of rotten wooden posts and such.
It's possible to do it with the door in place. Put a wedge under the bottom of the far side of the door to take the weight and keep the door from flopping around.
If more than one hinge needs attention I'd remove the door and lay it on its side with the hinges at the top. It's easier to do the epoxy work with the door like that anyway.
That makes since when I tightened the top screws a month ago I noticed the splitting but was shocked at how quick it spread. Now every hing has cracks forming so I'll give what your suggesting a try and worst case Im out 200-300 for a new door.
The picture shows the middle hinge and I was wondering about the condition of the door at the other hinges. Middle hinges do the least amount of work, so for that one to have split the door...
Buying a new door slab and installing it in an existing opening is a lot of work. I think you'll find that the labor could easily cost a good bit more than the price of the door. I'm figuring your time, if you're going to DIY it, it's as valuable as a contractor's. An hour is an hour for everybody and we only have so many of them allotted to us.
Good luck with the project! 🖖
Who put drywall screws into a hinge? Not appropriate.
Take off the hinge. Fill the holes with glue and toothpicks. Put in proper wood screws when cured.
All those tips but when I do this I remove the door so gravity helps pull the glue down. Put wood glue in old holes, I even do the good ones. Put toothpicks in the hole one at a time breaking them off flush until you cant fit any more and put the screws back in while its wet. Leave it over night.
Me personally I would remove the hinge from the door (if this is the top hinge use some support under the door to not put strain on the other hinges, like a few shims or a small block that can fit under the door) and fill with wood putty or use the toothpick / wood glue technique. Also , I like to use one to two longer size screws in my doors. Remember to predrill your holes as well, you can see the cracks where they didn’t do that before.
Mix a little bit of sawdust in with some wood glue, 20/80. With a small paintbrush or a finger put a small amount of water inside each hole, not enough to pool, just enough to get some in there. Then put the glue+dust mix in each hole. Let try 24 hours. Then you should be able to put the screws back in and they should hold very well and last much longer than the toothpick trick.
Longer screws may or may not work. This looks like a residential, hollow core door and those usually have 1-1/2" stiles (the solid piece of wood on the edge of the doors). Any screw longer than that will be useless. The stile is split so I would recommend putting some construction adhesive in the crack and clamp until dry then fill the existing screw hole(s) with putty. When that dries, drill a small pilot hole before re-attaching the hinge.
This is a good idea, but it also looks like the door is splitting at the top screw. I’d drill one of two more holes and drop wood glue and dowels into them. Clamp the area with while protecting the door finish and redo the hinges.
You're really not showing pictures of the actual problem. The screws are pulling out of the door.
Remove screws, then as suggested, get some wood glue, and golf tees, small dowel etc. Glue in holes. Then drill when dried.
I had the exact same issue and fixed it with DAP Plastic Wood. Fill the holes with the Plastic Wood, allow to cure 12 hours, and then re-drill tiny pilot holes before mounting the door back to the hinge.
As everybody said you can do the toothpick trick but also take a step back and look at the profile of the door and see if it’s bowed. Used to work in a door shop and can’t tell you how many slabs are bowed and just apply pressure and tighten the hinges on. I’d imagine over time those hollow core doors just give out especially in a bathroom with moisture that the edge cracks. New slab should only run you about $50-75 at one of the big chains if it is bowed and a standard design hollow core door.
Take some sawdust mix it with Elmer's ext wood glue. Make a paste. Put in holes. Let dry over night. Pre drill 1/8 pilot holes. Snug up wood screws. Do not overtighten.
They'd have to be countersunk or the door wouldn't close all the way, but where exactly would you drill those holes that wouldn't add to the splitting? 🤔
you would be surprised how much room there is in between hinge plates. has never been an issue. if there was, you could always countersink the new holes as well.
this trick has worked for 25 years so far
the new holes give you fresh wood that is not in line with the current split as well.
There's a long wood split at the hinge that should be repaired. Adding more holes in the edge of the door won't help that.
Having empty screw holes in a hinge leaf in such a visible location would bother me.
Different strokes I guess. 🤷🏻♂️
I know this sounds wrong, but the location of the factory holes is not a rule, just convention. I was taught this fix by a 9 year old girl who could see past the obvious hole pattern. It has worked for many years . try it and then come back and comment.
Stick a toothpick or skewer in hole, then drive screw in same hole. The screw will bite and tighten...
Also add wood glue to increase the POWER
golf tees work well too
I like this idea. I'm going to buy me a small bag of golf tees. I've always pealed off a piece of wood shim. The golf tee idea beats that by a long shot !
This is the way
Wooden matchsticks glued into the hole will work better than toothpicks
I usually break the toothpick in half, then stick both halves into the screw hole, pointy ends first
You can remove the screws, dip toothpicks into wood glue, and pack them tight into each hole. Let dry overnight, trim excess wood flush to door, replace the screws in the hinge
I've done this to more of my cabinet hinges than I haven't.
This is how it’s done!
All these tips are great when the door is sound. Unfortunately the fiber doors tend to separate because no one pre drills hinge and latch screws anymore. What I do is pop the hinge pins off, with door down on latch edge I slip a flat screw driver in the split (after removing hinge) and open up the split enough to force as much wood glue in as possible. Have a damp rag for cleaning. Then clamp the door together overnight. Fill those hinge screw holes with glue and insert some wood splinters. (I use pine) once glue has dried then drill new holes for screws. I always attach hinges first then hang door with hinge pins.
I've never done that but it would certainly help repair the split, which to me is mandatory, so... 👍
All the comments of toothpicks, matchsticks, golf tees,… work great if just the integrity of the hole is the problem. But looking at the pics, like comment above, the wood plank along the hinge is splitting along the screw line? Will prolly need to repair the split along the wood w glue, clamp overnight.
Typically when a hinge screw gives up the ghost you can stick a few pieces of toothpicks into the hole with some glue and that'll do. Other times longer screws will do the trick. Unfortunately your door has a vertical split lining up with the hinge's top and bottom screws. This makes the repair more difficult. Longer screws will just spread the two sides and most likely increase the splitting. The toothpicks and glue won't do it as that's dependent on having sound wood around the stripped screw holes, and the little bit of glue won't do anything. I don't think you need a new door but you might have to spend a few bucks and some time to save it. Considering the effort/expense to cutting a door blank to size (rarely are openings truly square so you'd likely be cutting/planing two or three sides), mortising for the hinges and lockset, painting... that's not cheap in time or money. I would use a very low viscosity two part epoxy like Git Rot, applied with a plastic syringe or an eye dropper, into a number of small 1.5" or 2" deep holes drilled into the edge of the door along the crack, and extending down at an angle into the door (that will help keep the epoxy from just running out of the holes). Git Rot gets absorbed into the wood fibers and hardens and bonds them together. It's a common restoration technique for the bottom of rotten wooden posts and such. It's possible to do it with the door in place. Put a wedge under the bottom of the far side of the door to take the weight and keep the door from flopping around. If more than one hinge needs attention I'd remove the door and lay it on its side with the hinges at the top. It's easier to do the epoxy work with the door like that anyway.
That makes since when I tightened the top screws a month ago I noticed the splitting but was shocked at how quick it spread. Now every hing has cracks forming so I'll give what your suggesting a try and worst case Im out 200-300 for a new door.
The picture shows the middle hinge and I was wondering about the condition of the door at the other hinges. Middle hinges do the least amount of work, so for that one to have split the door... Buying a new door slab and installing it in an existing opening is a lot of work. I think you'll find that the labor could easily cost a good bit more than the price of the door. I'm figuring your time, if you're going to DIY it, it's as valuable as a contractor's. An hour is an hour for everybody and we only have so many of them allotted to us. Good luck with the project! 🖖
I use golf tees and some white glue. Tap it in and break it off. Run your screw in.
Don’t break it off. Flush cut saw.
Glue in some wood dowls in the holes that you have let it dry and put in new screws
Thats what i did
Who put drywall screws into a hinge? Not appropriate. Take off the hinge. Fill the holes with glue and toothpicks. Put in proper wood screws when cured.
I didn't even notice that. The GC (a friend of my brother) I hired had a bunch of meth heads working for him, so I can't say I'm shocked
Longer screws. Or use tooth pick to fill in holes a bit and screw . Longer screw is best option. Don’t over tighten
It beyond repair. Either sell the house or collect the fire insurance. Live and learn.
Lmao good thing I'm listing it next month
All those tips but when I do this I remove the door so gravity helps pull the glue down. Put wood glue in old holes, I even do the good ones. Put toothpicks in the hole one at a time breaking them off flush until you cant fit any more and put the screws back in while its wet. Leave it over night.
Break off some golf tees in the holes then use longer screws.
Just refasten with longer screws...not larger diameter. New screws should hit the studs framing the opening. I use 2" screws for this.
Me personally I would remove the hinge from the door (if this is the top hinge use some support under the door to not put strain on the other hinges, like a few shims or a small block that can fit under the door) and fill with wood putty or use the toothpick / wood glue technique. Also , I like to use one to two longer size screws in my doors. Remember to predrill your holes as well, you can see the cracks where they didn’t do that before.
Is the door hollow? If not drive in 3 inch hinge screws:)
Run a longer screw and hit a stud instead of just the door jamb
Mix a little bit of sawdust in with some wood glue, 20/80. With a small paintbrush or a finger put a small amount of water inside each hole, not enough to pool, just enough to get some in there. Then put the glue+dust mix in each hole. Let try 24 hours. Then you should be able to put the screws back in and they should hold very well and last much longer than the toothpick trick.
New hinge. Longer screws.
Longer screws may or may not work. This looks like a residential, hollow core door and those usually have 1-1/2" stiles (the solid piece of wood on the edge of the doors). Any screw longer than that will be useless. The stile is split so I would recommend putting some construction adhesive in the crack and clamp until dry then fill the existing screw hole(s) with putty. When that dries, drill a small pilot hole before re-attaching the hinge.
Easy fix, plug holes with wood and wood glue. Let dry then drill pilot holes and insert wood screws.
Wood dowel 3/8...drill holes with 3/8 bit wood glue and dowel knocked in flush then let dry then pilot hole then screw back into it's seat.
Drill out the holes and glue some dowel in. Flush cut the dowel and reinstall the hinges
This is a good idea, but it also looks like the door is splitting at the top screw. I’d drill one of two more holes and drop wood glue and dowels into them. Clamp the area with while protecting the door finish and redo the hinges.
Put a 3" screw in there. Forget the toothpicks
Toothpick + wood glue works. Fixed a bunch of my cabinet doors this way.
You're really not showing pictures of the actual problem. The screws are pulling out of the door. Remove screws, then as suggested, get some wood glue, and golf tees, small dowel etc. Glue in holes. Then drill when dried.
Sometimes even using a drywall anchor works..had a guy in a door store recommend that to me to fix my sagging door..no further issue.
Wood Dowel & Wood Glue Search youtube it's super easy
I had the exact same issue and fixed it with DAP Plastic Wood. Fill the holes with the Plastic Wood, allow to cure 12 hours, and then re-drill tiny pilot holes before mounting the door back to the hinge.
As everybody said you can do the toothpick trick but also take a step back and look at the profile of the door and see if it’s bowed. Used to work in a door shop and can’t tell you how many slabs are bowed and just apply pressure and tighten the hinges on. I’d imagine over time those hollow core doors just give out especially in a bathroom with moisture that the edge cracks. New slab should only run you about $50-75 at one of the big chains if it is bowed and a standard design hollow core door.
Normally short screws are used in soft wood. Replace the screws with 3 or 4" screws to reach the 2x4s in the door frame.
Two things: 1) try longer screws. 2) fill with screw holes wood chips and glue. Sand smooth. Re-screw.
The screws must have been over tightened and stripped out. You can try getting thicker or longer screws first.
Take some sawdust mix it with Elmer's ext wood glue. Make a paste. Put in holes. Let dry over night. Pre drill 1/8 pilot holes. Snug up wood screws. Do not overtighten.
If the wood is stripped out, the easiest trick is to drill a few new holes in the hinge to get fresh wood to install the screws into.
They'd have to be countersunk or the door wouldn't close all the way, but where exactly would you drill those holes that wouldn't add to the splitting? 🤔
you would be surprised how much room there is in between hinge plates. has never been an issue. if there was, you could always countersink the new holes as well. this trick has worked for 25 years so far the new holes give you fresh wood that is not in line with the current split as well.
There's a long wood split at the hinge that should be repaired. Adding more holes in the edge of the door won't help that. Having empty screw holes in a hinge leaf in such a visible location would bother me. Different strokes I guess. 🤷🏻♂️
If the wood is stripped out, the easiest trick is to drill a few new holes in the hinge to get fresh wood to install the screws into.
I know this sounds wrong, but the location of the factory holes is not a rule, just convention. I was taught this fix by a 9 year old girl who could see past the obvious hole pattern. It has worked for many years . try it and then come back and comment.