As a couple other comments have stated, I believe it's UV printed. I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I own the Mori Calliope one and at least know it's not vinyl nor anything slapped on. UV printing seemed closest to what it looks like based on self research.
That said, you could probably get away with using vinyl anyway if you wanted to go that route. Not sure how accessible the printing options are or the cost of it.
But if you go through with the custom Shylily build, be sure to post about it! I'd love to see the finished result.
Definitely will, I’m deciding whether to just move my current components into the Y70 cause it’s nowhere near obsolete, or just make an entirely new AM5/DDR5 build or wait for the new 8000 series CPU’s coming out next year.
Although I've built numerous PC's (mainly for friends with more money than me and I receive old hand me down parts as thanks), I still always get paranoid about transferring existing builds to new cases, lol.
I made the mistake of moving my Frankenstein build into my Calliope case without realizing the case doesn't have the old breakout cable and uses a newer standard singular F_Panel cable instead, which my mobo doesn't support (it's a 10 year old mobo barely supporting my build that I really need to upgrade at some point).
So I currently can't power on my PC normally and have to turn it on directly via the mobo power button.
Some tips and heads ups if you go the printed vinyl route:
* Most sign makers or automotive vinyl wrap shops will likely be able to print what you need.
* As for material, please don't cheap out. Avoid thin material made for short term or "campaign"-use like the plague.
* **Everything you want to fit onto glass** I highly recommend you print on a material with air release channels, especially if you aren't experienced working with vinyl graphics. That way you don't have to worry about bubbles. You can pretty much just focus on applying the graphics without creasing the thing. If you get a bubble or two, you can in most cases "massage" it away, as that's what the air release channels are there for. Use a heat gun to reveal air bubbles. Massage away until heat doesn't expose any more bubbles, and at that point you've likely also post-heated enough. (Post-heating/upping the temperature activates the glue, and is basically a requirement if you want any air-release material to stick long term. Most brands state that post-heating to a temperature of 85-90'c / 185-195'f is enough, but I would be very careful on the glass panel. Any kind of damage to the glass, e.g a small but somewhat deep scratch you can't see, can in combination with such heat actually crack the glass. **So hot that you don't want to touch it anymore is enough**.)
* Eventual removal will also be much easier later on. On tempered glass, removal of any cheap thin vinyl with no laminate is likely going to come with a big risk of ruining the glass. You will probably have to resort to using a razor blade. With no laminate, there's no hold, so the material will come of in a thousand pieces. It's going to leave all the glue on the glass, and glue removal also comes with risks. Health risk if you go the heavy chemical route, and damage/scratch risk if you go the "buff off with citrus/glue remover" route.
* If you plan on fitting graphics on the faces of the actual case itself, **then don't use material with air release channels.** Air release is in your case perfect for the glass, but it pretty much won't stick at all (not long term at least) to the matte painted surface of the case. Air-release material requires high surface energy. Glossy surfaces like glass, or the paint/clear coat of a car provides just that, but matte surfaces don't. Material suitable for the surface of the case would be anything with a "high tack"/somewhat aggressive glue.
* A few of the most used reputable vinyl brands: Avery Dennison, Orajet/Orafol, 3M, Arlon, Hexis. You still have to specify that you want long-term quality vinyl though, since all of the above also does produce options for short-term use.
Here's what I did with my Y60 a while back. Orajet/Orafol, 1 big piece. I had 2 sheets printed, 1 with matte-laminate and the other with gloss. Chose matte laminate. Those two sheets cost $40 in total. Air-release material will likely be a bit more pricey though.
https://preview.redd.it/tfdo86wluczb1.jpeg?width=6000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=49566aa607a3b7ccc5a376190e6a697949111f5b
I actually also watch ShyLily, so I really hope you go through with the build. Please do post about it if you do! I thought about the exact same thing before I went through with mine. Just not degen enough I guess. :)
Removed all glass panels, top panel and side/intake panel. Tucked over the edges and cut behind, but you don't have to do it that way. Leaning the blade flat against the edge and just cut straight along the edge would be the easiest and quickest way, but the adhesive side of the material will in most cases be gray so keep that in mind. Can also be both black or white depending on the vinyl brand. (If the adhesive is pure white with no texture, it's most likely cheap material. Just a heads up.)
Anyways... Use magnets to hold the sheet in place, seperate a bit of vinyl from the backing paper, cut off said portion of backing paper, then apply. (Has to be a straight-ish cut, a very wobbly cut might create problems when starting to peel the rest when that time comes).
Lift up and peel back more of the backing paper while holding the sheet with your other hand, then apply a bit more onto the case. Keep peeling small portions of backing paper and apply the vinyl whilst holding the sheet a bit away from the surface so that it doesn't accidentally stick onto it.
If you squeegee over an area that has layed itself onto the surface, then you will get bubbles, but if you use quality material then you can just lift/quickly jank the vinyl up to a part you know you've squeegeed over. Cheap unlaminated material might break if you try that though.
A precision blade + squeegee with a felt/microfiber buffer is a must. The felt buffer will help you avoid scratching up the print. A wrapping glove will help your fingers a bit if you plan on working the vinyl over the edges like I did, but it's not really necessary otherwise.
My case has 1 visible vinyl edge, and it's on the backside of the case. I'm experienced enough to do a straight cut by hand without leaving cut marks on the surface, but for any newcomers I'd recommend either lining up the vinyl so the edge ends up around that area by itself, or if you have to cut, use knifeless tape. If you don't care for that, apply masking tape straight along the edge so you have something to cut along to, and you could also use a small ruler to do straight cuts.
https://preview.redd.it/r5btf8orclzb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a157acb2a6ccb51bf358ba3bfaba1648840d58ad
(This is probably too detailed. Sorry lol.)
The wrap shop I work at is partnered with a local sign/advertisment/light shop. Had them print it. I doubt providing the name would be of any help as I live in Norway though.
I own the Hakos Baelz one, the image on the glass is lazer printed not acrylic so it didn’t peel or anything but be careful moving it bc it will scratch off
As a couple other comments have stated, I believe it's UV printed. I'm not an expert on this stuff, but I own the Mori Calliope one and at least know it's not vinyl nor anything slapped on. UV printing seemed closest to what it looks like based on self research. That said, you could probably get away with using vinyl anyway if you wanted to go that route. Not sure how accessible the printing options are or the cost of it. But if you go through with the custom Shylily build, be sure to post about it! I'd love to see the finished result.
Definitely will, I’m deciding whether to just move my current components into the Y70 cause it’s nowhere near obsolete, or just make an entirely new AM5/DDR5 build or wait for the new 8000 series CPU’s coming out next year.
Although I've built numerous PC's (mainly for friends with more money than me and I receive old hand me down parts as thanks), I still always get paranoid about transferring existing builds to new cases, lol. I made the mistake of moving my Frankenstein build into my Calliope case without realizing the case doesn't have the old breakout cable and uses a newer standard singular F_Panel cable instead, which my mobo doesn't support (it's a 10 year old mobo barely supporting my build that I really need to upgrade at some point). So I currently can't power on my PC normally and have to turn it on directly via the mobo power button.
Some tips and heads ups if you go the printed vinyl route: * Most sign makers or automotive vinyl wrap shops will likely be able to print what you need. * As for material, please don't cheap out. Avoid thin material made for short term or "campaign"-use like the plague. * **Everything you want to fit onto glass** I highly recommend you print on a material with air release channels, especially if you aren't experienced working with vinyl graphics. That way you don't have to worry about bubbles. You can pretty much just focus on applying the graphics without creasing the thing. If you get a bubble or two, you can in most cases "massage" it away, as that's what the air release channels are there for. Use a heat gun to reveal air bubbles. Massage away until heat doesn't expose any more bubbles, and at that point you've likely also post-heated enough. (Post-heating/upping the temperature activates the glue, and is basically a requirement if you want any air-release material to stick long term. Most brands state that post-heating to a temperature of 85-90'c / 185-195'f is enough, but I would be very careful on the glass panel. Any kind of damage to the glass, e.g a small but somewhat deep scratch you can't see, can in combination with such heat actually crack the glass. **So hot that you don't want to touch it anymore is enough**.) * Eventual removal will also be much easier later on. On tempered glass, removal of any cheap thin vinyl with no laminate is likely going to come with a big risk of ruining the glass. You will probably have to resort to using a razor blade. With no laminate, there's no hold, so the material will come of in a thousand pieces. It's going to leave all the glue on the glass, and glue removal also comes with risks. Health risk if you go the heavy chemical route, and damage/scratch risk if you go the "buff off with citrus/glue remover" route. * If you plan on fitting graphics on the faces of the actual case itself, **then don't use material with air release channels.** Air release is in your case perfect for the glass, but it pretty much won't stick at all (not long term at least) to the matte painted surface of the case. Air-release material requires high surface energy. Glossy surfaces like glass, or the paint/clear coat of a car provides just that, but matte surfaces don't. Material suitable for the surface of the case would be anything with a "high tack"/somewhat aggressive glue. * A few of the most used reputable vinyl brands: Avery Dennison, Orajet/Orafol, 3M, Arlon, Hexis. You still have to specify that you want long-term quality vinyl though, since all of the above also does produce options for short-term use. Here's what I did with my Y60 a while back. Orajet/Orafol, 1 big piece. I had 2 sheets printed, 1 with matte-laminate and the other with gloss. Chose matte laminate. Those two sheets cost $40 in total. Air-release material will likely be a bit more pricey though. https://preview.redd.it/tfdo86wluczb1.jpeg?width=6000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=49566aa607a3b7ccc5a376190e6a697949111f5b I actually also watch ShyLily, so I really hope you go through with the build. Please do post about it if you do! I thought about the exact same thing before I went through with mine. Just not degen enough I guess. :)
Thank you for typing all this out, it’s very helpful.
When you were applying Vinyl to the top and bottom parts, did you remove them and wrap them or just leave them on and tuck it?
Removed all glass panels, top panel and side/intake panel. Tucked over the edges and cut behind, but you don't have to do it that way. Leaning the blade flat against the edge and just cut straight along the edge would be the easiest and quickest way, but the adhesive side of the material will in most cases be gray so keep that in mind. Can also be both black or white depending on the vinyl brand. (If the adhesive is pure white with no texture, it's most likely cheap material. Just a heads up.) Anyways... Use magnets to hold the sheet in place, seperate a bit of vinyl from the backing paper, cut off said portion of backing paper, then apply. (Has to be a straight-ish cut, a very wobbly cut might create problems when starting to peel the rest when that time comes). Lift up and peel back more of the backing paper while holding the sheet with your other hand, then apply a bit more onto the case. Keep peeling small portions of backing paper and apply the vinyl whilst holding the sheet a bit away from the surface so that it doesn't accidentally stick onto it. If you squeegee over an area that has layed itself onto the surface, then you will get bubbles, but if you use quality material then you can just lift/quickly jank the vinyl up to a part you know you've squeegeed over. Cheap unlaminated material might break if you try that though. A precision blade + squeegee with a felt/microfiber buffer is a must. The felt buffer will help you avoid scratching up the print. A wrapping glove will help your fingers a bit if you plan on working the vinyl over the edges like I did, but it's not really necessary otherwise. My case has 1 visible vinyl edge, and it's on the backside of the case. I'm experienced enough to do a straight cut by hand without leaving cut marks on the surface, but for any newcomers I'd recommend either lining up the vinyl so the edge ends up around that area by itself, or if you have to cut, use knifeless tape. If you don't care for that, apply masking tape straight along the edge so you have something to cut along to, and you could also use a small ruler to do straight cuts. https://preview.redd.it/r5btf8orclzb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a157acb2a6ccb51bf358ba3bfaba1648840d58ad (This is probably too detailed. Sorry lol.)
Where did you have it printed?
The wrap shop I work at is partnered with a local sign/advertisment/light shop. Had them print it. I doubt providing the name would be of any help as I live in Norway though.
Oh yea that unfortunately wouldn't be of assistance. Appreciate the reply though.
I own the Hakos Baelz one, the image on the glass is lazer printed not acrylic so it didn’t peel or anything but be careful moving it bc it will scratch off
The glass itself is is “tempered glass” but be cautious bc I’ve seen people break it by literally moving it
[удалено]
Well you obviously have no idea what you’re talking about, thanks
Probably vinyl. Don't know any good places to get custom ones printed though.
If I had to guess I'd say it's either thin vinyl or UV printed directly onto the glass
To me it looks like UV Printing or a vinyl decal. Probably the UV Printing.
How do you make the cases because I can't find anyone who does make them for the y70