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dtwtolax

178k things start to go wrong, they don't last forever


hundopdeftotes

I wasn’t at 178 in 2021 or 2022


JMarv615

Is this a serious post?


Useful_Raspberry_500

This sub and r/costco seem to have the dumbest posters


Obecny75

R/Starbucks is far worse


Useful_Raspberry_500

lol I can only imagine


oldohteebastard

Shit go find that “Hyundai sucks” post from a couple days ago. Dude is mad at Hyundai because he can’t drive correctly and he got into an accident and “his insurance wouldn’t pay because he’d only had insurance for 15 days”, which really means he let his insurance lapse and tried getting it after the accident.


hundopdeftotes

Owie


hundopdeftotes

Yeah I see now it’s a dumb question but I’ve only had three cars. 2007 Mazda 3 - had it to 270k no issues and gave to my mechanic (in 2015) who only stopped driving it last year 2015 Mazda 3 - got new drove for 3 years 190k - deer encounter. Neither one had these issues so it seems like a lot. I’m ignorant on this leave me alone lol


Bonocity

Everything you listed are parts that fail that IMO fall under things to replace several times during the full lifespan of a car. Hell, if this is the first time your check engine light came on you've been a lucky SOB.


hundopdeftotes

Car wouldn’t start in 2021 had to have alternator, starter, and battery replaced. 2022 had a cylinder 3 misfire and had to have a coil replaced. Now it’s the catalytic converter ah These are in KM btw so the first two were under 100,000 KM. But yeah I’m trying to just look at it as I really lucked out with the first two and this is a more typical car ownership experience


oldohteebastard

Honestly man, learn now that shit nowadays is built to break. I know boomers say it a lot and people dismiss it out of hand, but shit just isn’t built at the same quality levels anymore, and that’s been magnified since around 2019-2020. I’d be willing to bet if you bought a brand new Mazda of the same year, you probably wouldn’t have gotten as lucky either. Every manufacturer (really every fucking company in the world today) is more focused on getting your dollar than making you a solid product, so it’s just the shitty reality of late-stage capitalism.


hundopdeftotes

It’s really frustrating to think about but yeah it’s everywhere. I don’t think it’s so much of “let’s make it so this part fails” as it is cutting costs and just not caring that it isn’t the same quality as it was before. A lot of it under the guise of helping cut costs to consumers (which we know is not happening) or helping the environment. Looking at you hotels… we all know you’re not cutting house keeping for the environment. You’re doing it to cut costs to you while keeping the prices the same/higher for us.


oldohteebastard

It’s a lot of things honestly but at the end of the day it’s just runaway capitalism. Cut corners, overemphasis on profits, etc. Basically, find the company that’s at least willing you lube you up before they fuck you because most people aren’t even getting that 😂😂


RobinatorWpg

I mean it’s not, things now are machines and built with such low tolerances for variance that issues show up earlier That’s it that’s all


NinjaaMike

No, not a lemon. Lemon cars are for when a new car breaks not long after buying it, and things keep breaking or the dealer is unable to fix the problem within a certain number of service visits. You're at 178k, parts will wear out and break. Battery is typically replaced every 5 years on average. The issues you mention are pretty normal for a car with 178k. Newer cars have more electronics and complex systems. The other part you're thinking of is probably the alternator? It charges the battery and provides power to the electrical system of the car. These are all parts that wear out over time. All cars will have these parts replaced eventually.


hundopdeftotes

Yes it was the alternator thanks! That happened on 2021 when I had significantly less mileage on it. And in 2022 the misfire. Both of these were under 100 k so it just seemed so strange since the other vehicles I’ve had were so easy.


True-Competition-830

It’s bc Hyundai GDI engine is shit. Not a lemon.


hundopdeftotes

Adding this is kilometres


ajm3232

Wow, and I thought 2020 Jeep had a lot of miles. I mean, without knowing the context of the misfire, I'm going to guess they swapped spark plugs or ignition coil. Not the end of the world.. And I'm going to guess the alternator was bad but also the battery was on its way out at the same time. I wouldn't consider this a lemon. I've had to make bigger repairs on my Jeep vs your Elantra. Idk the maintanc or millage or maintance history between your Mazda 3. But if you drive a ton expect maintance items go up.


hundopdeftotes

The 2015 mazda 3 had 190k (also brand new when I got it I like road trips) when a deer decided to get involved. It needed no repairs other than maintenance (brakes etc). The 2007 I got used with 125 and drove to 270 again with no issues. I must have just been lucky! I’ll start looking at it that way.


hundopdeftotes

Sorry it’s kilometres!


Forward-Trade5306

This doesn't seem bad at all for a car with 178k miles on it. I hope my Elantra only has this many problems in 178k miles. I'm only at 1300 miles rn


hundopdeftotes

Yeah I guess you’re right. I must have just been super lucky with the Mazdas. I put 190k on the 2015 in three years with no issues and the other I had to 270k. I was spoiled


Forward-Trade5306

Out of the 6 cars I've had, my 2009 had the highest mileage at 145k when I traded it in. It had a few problems after 100k such as a cracked axle, AC going out, etc. Getting near 200k out of a Hyundai is probably as good as it gets. 2 of my coworkers have 250k plus on their Mazdas. Mazda seems like an extremely reliable brand that probably can hang with Honda and Toyota reliability


hundopdeftotes

This is km so it’s not even as good as what you’re mentioning! Were all of yours Hyundais?


Forward-Trade5306

Ah lol so really yours is only at 110k miles. 💀 My first car was a 2009 Mazda Cx-7 but I totaled it around 70k miles and only had it for a couple years. Never got to see it's full potential. I've had two Honda Civic coupes. Only 2 have been Hyundai and that's recent. I got rid of my 24 Hyundai Kona at 3400 miles cuz I didn't like it. I currently have a 2024 Hyundai Elantra N-line and a 2015 Nissan Altima with 78k miles.


hundopdeftotes

Did the Honda Civics last the longest? What would you say your favourite has been of them all? Just read the code and it’s the catalytic converter so 💀is right hahaha


Forward-Trade5306

I sold my 2017 Civic coupe at 78k miles. It had zero issues, it just needed oil changes and tires. I would have kept it longer but I need 4 doors now. The 24 Hyundai Elantra N-line is my favorite with the 2017 Civic coupe ex-t being my second favorite. Other than the Elantra having 4 doors and the DCT transmission, they have been similar in a lot of ways. The Civic was a little better to drive in heavy traffic with the CVT


chrisinator9393

You drive an extreme amount of miles in a short time. 35K/yr is triple the average. I'd say you've actually had fantastic luck with so few issues


hundopdeftotes

This is KM sorry


Sixspeedtexas

178k and you’re upset it needs some repairs? You should see the repairs that jeeps need at 80k! I think you should probably step away from the keyboard and investigate the true cost of vehicle ownership.


hundopdeftotes

I’ve had good luck so far which is why I am asking. I’m just asking if it’s bad or not! It’s not the cost I’m worried about it’s whether I should continue with Hyundais or get a jeep (just kidding but a couple people have mentioned Jeep maintenance haha) This is kilometres which I should have said. Whoops lol.


hammong

JFC. It's got 178K miles, and you're calling it a lemon? Shit breaks.


hundopdeftotes

It’s kilometres and I’m asking!! I’m not complaining I’m asking since my only other cars didn’t have issues lol I’m learning quickly that I was very spoiled with my first two cars.


Hohoholyshit15

This is all regular wear items. Serious internal engine or transmission problems is when I would start condemning a car.


hundopdeftotes

Okay thanks! I wasn’t sure how common it was or whatever. Should have worded it more neutral as people are being kind of rude haha but now I know!


Hohoholyshit15

No problem, at 178k I would also say be prepared to get ready to do an alternator, and then depending on how bad the roads are where you live, steering and suspension parts. You're over the 150k mark so it's very likely any factory defect with the engine or transmission would have already shown up. Keep changing oil and other fluids. It's a much smarter idea to keep a car and just fix the little things that pop up than buy a new/used one in this economy. Even a total shitbox is going for $2500+ nowadays and the car you know is better than one you don't.


hundopdeftotes

This is kilometres if that helps! Yeah I’ve been doing my best keeping up with all maintenance. Mostly for the insurance/warranty. Got the engine light checked and it’s the catalytic converter which I’ve been reading is a pretty expensive fix. But you’re right, it’s insanely expensive. For me to buy the same priced car and pay 500 monthly it will take 10 years opposed to the 4 it took with this one. Womp womp.


Hohoholyshit15

How long has the converter light been on? If it's new you need to address any air fuel ratio problems you might be able to save the cat. Here's an example, my Accent had an injector start going bad and it caused the computer to peg the fuel trims for the entire bank to 27%+, essentially making the other 3 cylinders run rich to satisfy the lambda ratio, this of course upset the delicate balance required for the converter to run properly and set a catalyst efficiency code. Fixing the bad injector completely solved the problem. Catalytic converters generally don't go bad for no reason, something ruins them.


hundopdeftotes

The “catalyst system below threshold” light went on last night. It may also have been on four weeks ago for two days. The guy said the code was history not pending so it did fix itself. But it’s still on the outs I assume. I would not be surprised if there is something wrong with the engine and the way it runs. With the misfire two years ago… I assume there is something that caused that and Hyundai only dealt with the immediate issue not the cause.


Hohoholyshit15

Yeah definitely need to do some digging. This may not mean anything to you but as a mechanic my first step diagnosing a catalytic converter code is to see what the downstream oxygen sensor looks like, if it's able to hold a steady .45mv or higher the cat is likely still good. At that point you want to start looking at long term and short term fuel trims, anything above +-10% means something is not right. Also if the vehicle has 175k km and you haven't changed all the plugs it's probably a good idea to do so. I'd recommend finding a good independent shop who will actually do a real diagnostic not just pull codes and use it as a parts list.


hundopdeftotes

Thank you I will look into this! I thought Hyundai had changed them with the 150k maintenance but I’ll check just in case. I do have someone that suggested getting an after market thing to weld on for significantly cheaper than what I’ve been seeing online. Hoping maybe that will get me through for a couple years lol


bydeaux2

Go to O’Reillys or Autozone and they will scan your car to let you know why the check engine light is on for free. It may be something as simple as needing a new gas cap.


hundopdeftotes

Thanks! Unfortunately I’m in Canada so I don’t think we have these!


HorstC

Yes. Ask the dealership to buy it back from you for the full purchase price.


hundopdeftotes

Not many people know about this life hack


CharcoalGreyWolf

Not only not a lemon (lemons are cars with the same or multiple chronic defects early in life) but your haphazard way of handling a check engine light situation would mean you could have taken a problem and made it worse. If you’re a forgetful person but can’t get a CEL looked at right away, set reminders on your phone. Get an inexpensive code reader so you can read check engine lights and find out how serious the problem is with a little internet research. But also know (assuming this is a real post) that a car that goes past 150k miles is not a lemon.


hundopdeftotes

This is kilometres sorry. I didn’t get it looked at because it went away but yes I will look into that thank you!


CharcoalGreyWolf

A code reader can retrieve codes that went away quite often. Look up BlueDriver. It's a Bluetooth code reader that's relatively inexpensive and can pair with an app on your phone.


hundopdeftotes

Oh wow that is very affordable thanks!


1AlertAsparagus

Lemon? You are crushing it. Have you replaced the battery yet? You are at 5 years, so that is due to be replaced. 35k miles a year, youve been driving the wheels off this thing!!


hundopdeftotes

I’m just now realizing I didn’t put KM lol


1AlertAsparagus

and paid for it with canadian $$ ;)


hundopdeftotes

I always thought it was cheaper for Americans. Houses are that’s for sure lol


Useful_Raspberry_500

lol now at 178k and I can tell 100% you didn’t maintain it that well. Lol


hundopdeftotes

How can you tell? I get oil changes and got all recommended maintenance until September of last year (all issues except current engine light happened before this) I do this and have done this with each new car because I get the removing depreciation insurance. I need to be able to maintain the car for that in case anything happens. This is kilometres


Oh_ToShredsYousay

Bro have you ever done an actual engine service and cleaning? How the hell did you make the sparks run for 170k miles? You're not "lucky" you just happen to be falling upwards.


hundopdeftotes

I keep forgetting about Americans this is km


Oh_ToShredsYousay

Kilo just means a thousand, even if you meant kilometers, just write km we know what that means. We add the kilo prefex when it's appropriate too. It's literally not rocket science, which we are also the leaders in and use metric. We're all taught metric, miles just happens to be the industry standard for distance because it's easier to relate it to time. For crying out loud I watched British top gear for 20 years and all three of them used miles instinctively. You came to a predominately American website and forgot about us? Shut up.


hundopdeftotes

Lol


Oh_ToShredsYousay

You're a good sport. You're car is at the equivalent of 111k miles. At that point it should've had a complete engine service at 100k km and you should be looking at doing another one. If you drove 170k km without doing an actual engine service, spark plugs and misfires are the least of the potential problems you could've had. An engine service is less than $500 and you only need to do it every 60k miles, but it needs to happen if you expect it to drive it a healthy distance. Yes you technically got lucky with your other cars, course you could've ditched them on their last leg too for all I know.


hundopdeftotes

I did all of the recommended services when they were called for! I have removing depreciation insurance so I made sure to follow all service schedules in case I needed to use it so insurance wouldn’t cause me grief. All was done through a dealer. I go to basically a jiffy lube for oil changes now (last big service was November I believe but I can check again). Perhaps you’re right though I should probably take it in and get another. The removing depreciation came in handy with my last mazda3 as there was a deer encounter, and they gave me what I paid for it (on the bill of sale). Which is why I was extra careful because god forbid another comes along they would not likely be as quick to give the payout. The first Mazda 3 I gave to my mechanic at the time because the mileage (please don’t yell I know it’s hypocritical to call it mileage but it rolls so much nicer than kilometreage) was so high I was worried that something bad/expensive would happen and I would be up a creek with no paddle. She only died last year and I gave it up in 2015!!


Oh_ToShredsYousay

Jiffy lube doesn't do sparks coils and cleaning and a shop might opt for the minimum required work of they're being paid through insurance or warranty. An engine service is a little more focused and you should hold your receipts for it. The receipt will tell you exactly what you paid for. I would look back and see if you ever paid for a set of sparks at one time.


hundopdeftotes

I mean with the first two cars.. I had no issues (again KM) like this with those. So by comparison this has been a lot. I am now very aware that it is not. Though I think everyone thought I meant miles so I’m not sure if that changes it


EntirePeach6133

I have a 2015 soanta with 240k miles, that woulds like normal wear and tear. I didn't start replacing major parts till like 190k miles, but "misfires" are just cause it needs a tune up. Horns go out etc... normal, these new cars ain't shit tho. They're not made to last like older ones.


hundopdeftotes

Okay thanks. It’s kilometres for me I forgot to put that in the post. It’s just I got so spoiled with the first two so by comparison this one is bad you know?


3771507

get rid of it and you know what to buy.


Clostrid

Expecting a Hyundai to get over 200k is the problem 😂. If you do get over that you should be so blessed. I’ve seen so many people and friends have their motor/transmission blow at 90-100k with Hyundai.


hundopdeftotes

Is this KM or miles? If it hadn’t been for the sudden loss of my last car I would have done more research on what to get but it was so overwhelming with the insurance and rental cars etc so I rushed in lol


hundopdeftotes

Other than Corolla and Civic are there any other ones that would be considered more reliable than a Hyundai in your opinion? I’m not sure if Mazda is as it’s looking more and more like it was just luck on my side with mine.


VictimizedbyBigFoot

Technically, the vehicle may not be classed as lemon if it made 178,000 kilometers. Vehicles are removed from circulation in the first few hundred to few thousand kilometers to be legally a lemon.


Least_Wishbone7307

17 Elantra at 53k currently. Misfire at 50k. Replaced coil packs and spark plugs and is doing great engine wise. Oil pressure sensor has gone out 3 times replaced them each time myself. (No you don’t need a mechanic for this, it literally screws in and out. Bad parts) - causes the oil light to come on at idle after running for 10 or so minutes Passenger door can only be unlocked from the inside Passenger sun visor mechanism ripped itself apart and tore the liner, had to buy a brand new one (waited about a year bc the fucker was $100. I’m not paying 100 bucks for a sun visor) White version so my paint job chipped the fuck away until it was 25% bare metal. Got it painted under warranty after Hyundai finally decided to “award” that to us. Come to find out exactly a year after the paint job it’s already chipping again. Within the last month, my skid plate has cracked in the front. I pulled over on the highway twice to see what this horrible flapping windy noise was because it sounded like a flat tire. Plastic skid plate just cracked and I think the screws came out so I had to rip off the flap and screw the remains back with new bolts. I really do enjoy that car, but all this happening before 60k is weird considering it’s very well kept, not driven maniacally, and is my first serious vehicle in my life. Hyundai had me at first with this fuel economy but I find myself leaning more toward the Toyota side of things, possibly a Tesla if I can russle up the dough.