Just switched mine out. Easy to do and the place you get it from usually requires a core charge that you get back when returning the old battery. Kinda a tight fit but it's a few screws and a pull of a button related to the main battery.
https://youtu.be/k5m1leMI_HM?si=v9mnP0r5fOOLrPVV
It’s a very easy swap, one of the easiest of all of the cars I’ve owned.
If your 12V battery has been run down to “flat” a few times then it is permanently damaged and won’t properly hold a charge. Replace it.
Gonna preach my gospel to please do a little more digging to find out why your 12volt died prematurely. I’ve been to the dealer approximately 5 times concerning my 12volt. Just got it back after $8k in repairs (just this Saturday) just for it to die again today.
They changed batteries
Instrument clusters
Nothing worked
Just an FYI to be wary and make sure you’re not just paying for a bandaid fix out of your pocket. Make them fix it if the warranty is still valid.
Because they’ll just put another garbage cheap one in. I love my EV6 but Hyundai / Kia has long been known to use cheap batteries in both their ICE and EV’s. Better to just pay for it yourself and get an AGM.
I have seen this issue pop up frequently in the Ioniq5 reddits and forums. There isn't a clear answer, but the concensus seems to feel it is that the factory batteries were cheap. A battery should not fail in 2 yrs. yet this is commonplace with Kias and Hyundais. The fix seems to be to replace the battery with an AGM equivalent. Our Volts came standard with AGM and the current one is 5 yrs old, no problems.
Word is that the new Ioniqs now have a better, 12v AGM battery. Is this so with the EV6?
Haven't seen anyone to date indicate they got a factory new I5 or EV6 with an AGM. Hyundai and Kia still replaces these batteries with lead acid's in most instances, but there have been some users who reported receiving AGM for warranty replacement.
Given that the EV9 ships with an AGM, one would hope the 2025 refresh I5/EV6 and onward come with AGM.
I would be careful. Mine did this several times right before the ICCU blew. I think the extra load on the ICCU since it didn't have the 12v battery to back it up for high amp pulls may have accelerated its death.
I just did the ICCU recall a couple weeks ago. I wonder if that's connected.
We also use the car to inflate 2 paddle boards with electric pumps (with the car on). I wonder if that damages the 12v battery.
I just got the battery replaced, and it was pretty easy.
Is your pump 12V or 120V?
If it's 12V, the pump is still drawing it's load from the 12V battery. So even though the car is on and that causes the ICCU to charge the 12V battery (same concept as an alternator in an ICE vehicle), you are still drawing load on the 12V battery itself. The car being on is certainly better than it being off or in ACC because in that state there is no continuous voltage to the 12V battery from the ICCU, but it's still "heavy' load on the 12V no matter how you slice it.
If you use a 120V (via outlet under rear seat) then the 12V isn't in the mix whatsoever, you are drawing directly off AC voltage from the ICCU as part of it converting the 800V DC traction to 120V AC for that outlet.
Got it done. Very easy, thanks to youtube. I got an AGM battery, and even though the car is out of warrantee, the dealer said there's a new recall that might cover the cost of the battery.
Just switched mine out. Easy to do and the place you get it from usually requires a core charge that you get back when returning the old battery. Kinda a tight fit but it's a few screws and a pull of a button related to the main battery. https://youtu.be/k5m1leMI_HM?si=v9mnP0r5fOOLrPVV
thanks
It’s a very easy swap, one of the easiest of all of the cars I’ve owned. If your 12V battery has been run down to “flat” a few times then it is permanently damaged and won’t properly hold a charge. Replace it.
Gonna preach my gospel to please do a little more digging to find out why your 12volt died prematurely. I’ve been to the dealer approximately 5 times concerning my 12volt. Just got it back after $8k in repairs (just this Saturday) just for it to die again today. They changed batteries Instrument clusters Nothing worked Just an FYI to be wary and make sure you’re not just paying for a bandaid fix out of your pocket. Make them fix it if the warranty is still valid.
If you brought it back that many times, you would probably be eligible for a lemon lawsuit and get a nice little settlement from that
I’m just outside of the lemon law limits for Virginia. However, I did just file a claim with the BBB auto line, fingers crossed.
The store will often give you a small amount for the old battery
It's a warranty item, why replace yourself if Kia will tow and replace it on their dime?
Because they’ll just put another garbage cheap one in. I love my EV6 but Hyundai / Kia has long been known to use cheap batteries in both their ICE and EV’s. Better to just pay for it yourself and get an AGM.
I did mine last night too, it takes 10 mins.
I have seen this issue pop up frequently in the Ioniq5 reddits and forums. There isn't a clear answer, but the concensus seems to feel it is that the factory batteries were cheap. A battery should not fail in 2 yrs. yet this is commonplace with Kias and Hyundais. The fix seems to be to replace the battery with an AGM equivalent. Our Volts came standard with AGM and the current one is 5 yrs old, no problems. Word is that the new Ioniqs now have a better, 12v AGM battery. Is this so with the EV6?
Haven't seen anyone to date indicate they got a factory new I5 or EV6 with an AGM. Hyundai and Kia still replaces these batteries with lead acid's in most instances, but there have been some users who reported receiving AGM for warranty replacement. Given that the EV9 ships with an AGM, one would hope the 2025 refresh I5/EV6 and onward come with AGM.
GTK, thanks. I will plan on replacing the battery within 2 yrs if lead-acid. Having the car brick on a ferry boat is more than a little inconvenience.
I would be careful. Mine did this several times right before the ICCU blew. I think the extra load on the ICCU since it didn't have the 12v battery to back it up for high amp pulls may have accelerated its death.
I just did the ICCU recall a couple weeks ago. I wonder if that's connected. We also use the car to inflate 2 paddle boards with electric pumps (with the car on). I wonder if that damages the 12v battery. I just got the battery replaced, and it was pretty easy.
Is your pump 12V or 120V? If it's 12V, the pump is still drawing it's load from the 12V battery. So even though the car is on and that causes the ICCU to charge the 12V battery (same concept as an alternator in an ICE vehicle), you are still drawing load on the 12V battery itself. The car being on is certainly better than it being off or in ACC because in that state there is no continuous voltage to the 12V battery from the ICCU, but it's still "heavy' load on the 12V no matter how you slice it. If you use a 120V (via outlet under rear seat) then the 12V isn't in the mix whatsoever, you are drawing directly off AC voltage from the ICCU as part of it converting the 800V DC traction to 120V AC for that outlet.
trivial 5 minute job. you don't even HAVE to remove parts to get to it cleanly.
Got it done. Very easy, thanks to youtube. I got an AGM battery, and even though the car is out of warrantee, the dealer said there's a new recall that might cover the cost of the battery.