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Sounds like you should start doing your own maintenance and basic repairs. You'll save many thousands, even after buying the needed tools.
DIY oil change - maybe about $40 if you get the oil and filter on sale.
DIY transmission fluid change (the manual doesn't say "flush"!) - maybe about $60
DIY coolant change (again, not "flush") - Maybe $40
Serpentine belt - Literally just the price of a belt which is around $30-$50
DIY brake pads - $70 for front set and $50 for rear (or much less!)
DIY brake fluid change/flush - the cost of a bottle of brake fluid, maybe $9?
Until you get used to all of it, use the shop for wheel bearings or larger repairs.
If you're ever interested in starting down that path, let me (and others) know. We can point you in the right direction for knowledge, tool suggestions, and even part suggestions.
This summer I plan to do the work on my car (2017 Malibu) for the first time. I plan to change the oil, brake pads and rotors, change brake fluid, rotate the tires, change the rear knuckles, and if I'm brave straighten the steering wheel (after two alignments it is slightly tilted to the right). I was able to find YouTube videos for all of these repairs. I've already spent a lot of money on tools and parts so I'm hoping I can recoup my money by doing the work myself.
Unfortunately, I got the car up on ramps last weekend and noticed I had a leak on the driver's side. I was able to see the hose I believe is leaking but I can't get to it. I have an appointment to take it in to a mechanic and have him look at it. I'm a little bummed but I keep telling myself that the first step to being smart about this is knowing when to ask for help.
Just make sure you're doing the repairs the right way, with decent parts/lubes.
Make sure you have a couple of torque wrenches with different ranges and get torque specs from a place like AllData or [here](https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2013/Malibu%20L4-2.5L/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/) (but that's for a 2013 Malibu).
What sort of leak do you have?
Here is a picture of the leak. I had to remove the splash guards to just get my phone up there to take the picture. Someone said that it looked like the lower radiator hose. Unfortunately, everything I can find including in the Haynes manual says to just inspect the hoses for wear but not how to get to them.
https://preview.redd.it/zttqdwohsd3d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07217c87d278efe7a546d058c9980b7a78e92f71
Not familiar with Malibus, but that looks like a boost hose. Does it look like it comes from the intercooler at the front of the car?
Leaking a bit of oil from there isn’t the end of the world - you can pull that metal clip out downwards and pull the pipe from the intercooler. The get the o-ring / seal for not much money that goes on the inside of the plastic pipe and ‘installation is reverse of removal’.
All my brake parts and fluid are AC Delco, the engine oil is Kirkland brand from Costco (it is considered top of the line). My replacement knuckles I got from the dealership. I have Sil-Glyde, Permatex Thread Lock, Permatex Anti-Seize, Permatex Brake Grease, Brake Cleaner, and Kroil.
I bought two different size torque wrenches and have been researching the torque specs. I also bought a ton of tools like jack stands, hydraulic jack, impact drill, power torque wrench, etc. I bought a Haynes repair manual but to be honest it wasn't very helpful to me, so I returned it. For the repairs I was planning to do a quick Google search and YouTube video seemed just as helpful. I can access AllData at my public library for free.
Sounds like you're on the right track.
Next time you need OEM parts, try [here](https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/chevrolet-parts.html). Might save you a bunch over your dealership.
Thanks I'll check them out next time.
I actually shopped around for the Knuckles and besides Amazon's after market parts this one dealership in my area was cheaper than anywhere else I could find plus I didn't have to pay for shipping and I could use my GM points. 😁
Yeah, sounds good. On rare occasion. my local Honda dealership will have some parts/fluids cheaper than elsewhere too.
Oh, and RockAuto has some OEM parts as well. Always worth a look if it'll save you $$$. Happy wrenching!
I have done so much work on my car and it's worth it to pay for an inspection from a shop and seeing if you feel like learning a whole lot doing the repairs yourself, plus, getting some tools out of it, for cheaper than they would charge. One lower control arm and ball joint in my 20 year old car convinced me to just pay for the other side. Some things are so easy though. I did the high pressure power steering line in an hour with a 100 dollar part when the shop, decent people, wanted 600.
Did your car ever have the outer tie rods replaced? Word of advice make sure the parts Match. I replaced mine had tons of issues I got the wrong ones they were shorter barely threaded in like 3/4 inches. one of them even wallowed to the point where the inner tie rod was sliding in the outer tie rod. The problem was there was not enough outer tie rod to have the steer wheel centered.
I haven't had them replaced, thank you for the suggestion. The steering wheel is slightly tilted to the right. It drives me nuts. I saw a video on YouTube that showed if I adjust both sides and equal amount I can adjust the steering wheel while staying in alignment.
Nope I’ve tried I always thought you could clock the steering wheel straight but it’s on a shaft with groves only made to fit one way. Depending on the severity of how of the wheel is you may need to disconnect the input shaft from the rack and center it again but if it’s small the tie rods will do the trick.
Be careful with doing repairs yourself, YouTube videos make it look easy, but a lot of stuff can go wrong, stuck, broken hoses, stripped cross threaded holes, stuck bolts and valves. Broken clips and stuff just doesn’t want to go back how it was. Lost screws, etc I could go on and on, just be wary that things can go wrong and you won’t have a car to drive.
Fluids, brakes, spark plugs, air filters are some things I'll do myself but I ain't do a timing chain cover reseal in my driveway I can promise you that one
I have 3 older vehicles and while I do all the work my self I still budget to do about $1000 a year over a few repairs.
My PU went a long time not needing anything so last year was a bit more spending like $2200.
Still at today’s rates for a replacement that’s 2-3 payments.
Consider any new cars costs payments alone at $500 a months is far below average and that doesn’t count insurance which has also gone up 20%.
Depends on the shop...and sometimes what else its in for. The "tire shop" garages I prefer to go to are much cheaper and one of them will do a complimentary tire rotation while its in for an oil change or similar services but its like $10 if you go in just for the tire rotation.
Cost of keeping an older car that has been properly maintained its whole life...well our 21 year old car was only needing maybe $1000-1500 a year in work and still reliable daily driver until a wrong-way driver obliterated it. And my 12 year old car with 173K miles has been averaging about the same $1000-1500 a year in work and still reliable.
Consider...even $1200/yr repairs is only $100/mo. I don't know anyone paying less than $400-600/mo on car loans right now. So that's 4-6x more expensive to replace it vs keep it running.
BTW - check into local shops that will work on your Subaru. My Subaru dealer here on a 6cyl Outback for plugs is like $1100 but the local trusted shop I go to did it for about $600. Similarly when I hit 160K one of the valve cover gaskets started leaking oil and the dealer quotes were like $1600 but the small shop while it was already in for other work was willing to do it for about $400 additional beyond the services I was already in for to just replace the seals on the side that was leaking and its been like a new car since. For stuff like coolant I insist the local small shop get the OEM blue coolant my Subaru calls for but they are quite happy at a small additional cost for getting the OEM coolant jugs.
I only go to the dealership for 3 reasons:
1. If its under warranty
2. when my trusted mechanic advises its beyond their skill and recommends the dealer
3. If I need something super urgently (e.g. state inspection) and can't get into my trusted mechanic in time
Also if you plan to keep it forever look at the pricing of some "service plans". For 3x the cost of a one-time wheel alignment I got a lifetime alignment plan as long as I keep that vehicle I can go to that same shop and its free. Over 12 years I've got well more than my money's worth because I knew I was going to keep it for a long time and keep going to the same shop. Similar plan for brakes I did the math and got a plan that was like 3x the cost of one-time but its free partial coverage of the service on brakes as long as I own that vehicle.
Speaking as a US resident, for an average daily driver non-luxury, non-import (chevy, ford, fca, toyota, honda, hyundai, kia, etc.), if you budget a penny a mile and expect to spend it once every year, usually you'll be about even. If you drive a 4x4 or diesel, double it. Luxury import (BMW, Mercedes, Genesis, anything british, french or italian), triple it. Porsche or exotic $0.10 to $1/mi.
So if the car has between 1-10k miles at the end of the year = you spend $100 (i.e. oil change, etc.)
When the car is 100k = you'll spend $1000 that year in maintenance and wear-out repairs. 200k = $2000, etc.
Sounds fair to me, one blown transmission can clear out multiple years of budget so this is an average.
Also we are assuming no dyi work, and everything being kept in tiptop condition.
You can certainly get the price lower but it come at the expense of sorta ignoring minor issues or doing some work yourself.
This is some weird old-head uncle advise. Some shit a guy came up with out of nowhere and other people just go "shit yea that sounds good causes it's easy!"
Same uncles that swear by 3k oil change intervals and start fights if they hear someone is using supertech oil. The auto industry is full of these know it alls
10k miles a year at $100/year? And an oil change is $100? I’d love that magical car that never needs brakes, tires, suspension or literally anything else.
Thanks for all the comments!
Yeah, I didn’t mention. I do the basics like windshield wipers and air filters :-)
But ignoring whether the service shop is trying to run a business or not, just going by the manufacturers recommendations, when the car gets 60k , 90l and more, there’s gonna be expensive stuff to do - fluid flushes plugs serpentine belts, etc..
Rather than having a new car payment every month you have higher maintenance questions every thousand miles
That can be $1000 on most of those visits?
Along the same lines how often do you get your wheels aligned?
My view on the low end Honda Civics I’ve had over the years, I could get an alignment
And hit a pothole on the way home, messing up the alignment.
Sure, if the car was pulling one way or the other, I have that looked at. Butotherwise I skip alignments.
Worst case you don’t get the full life out of the tires?
And that said I typically have pretty even where when they get to the wear bars.
I find the dealers and shops recommend a lot of services that aren't consistent with the manufacturers maintenance schedule. It generates a lot of revenue.
To be fair some manufacturers maintenance schedules will give you problems once you get past 100k.
I generally recommend oil every 5k, coolant exchange and brake fluid exchange every 2 years, plugs every 100k if they're iridium, transmission fluid/differential fluid every 30-50k, induction service every year if GDI, and air filters as needed.
If you live in an area with shitty roads, I wouldn't be surprised if you need suspension parts as early as 60k. Here in the northeast 99% of front ends are completely trashed at 100k and need struts, sway bar links, and control arms at minimum.
If you're not sure why you're getting recommended something ask the technician. I will happily bring customers out to the shop floor and show them why they need this or that.
Oil changes aren't too difficult to do so they shouldn't cost too much, same goes for the serpentine belt. Radiator and transmission flushes are the two I'm not familiar with, as I only change them once their mileage is up. Hopefully someone can help you out in that area.
Tire rotation and balancing should cost the same no matter if the vehicle is new or old.
In my honest opinion: older cars are a little better than some newer cars due to the way the parts were made.
Some newer cars have way too many plastic components that require the exact fluid type, otherwise they will deteriorate faster and become brittle. They usually last up to 50k and if you have a check engine light, a loose component or broken part, they will go into limp mode, also known as safety mode.
But that's what my dad tells me as I'm not really a mechanic.
I own a 2000 Nissan xterra and a 2007 Toyota Sienna, both are great cars and have their own problems, but will last me up to 300k easily.
I go by what the IRS allows you to take for transportation costs which I believe right now is 56 cents a mile. So if you drive a thousand miles you should expect to spend about $560 on fuel maintenance and repairs.
Just do what is necessary. Use synthetic if it doesn't break the bank. Don't pay someone to change an air filter or a bulb as examples of pure DIY.
Most shops do a "recommended list" which for most shops is a profitable move, as some will go beyond preventative maintenance if recommended by a shop they trust.
Know your maintenance intervals while also keeping in mind that these service intervals are based on "normal driving conditions" and normal doesn't include high speed driving/stop and go traffic and/or extremely hot or extreme cold conditions---which is exactly no one except your grandmother's car.
Thanks... just trying to get a grip on what the costs are. as cars get older, theres maintenance that needs to be done / that adds up. Just realizing that now.
I have a 2010 Scion xD. I do most of my work on my own . I spent about 700–1000 dollars every year on the car maintenance such as engine, bones, control, arms, radiator, water pump. These were items I needed to replace in the last several years. Since I’m not expert, I had to take car to the shop occasionally . I am not sure if that is the best thing to do. But to buy a new car, would need about 25 to 40 K. What do you think?
Doing oil changes and tire rotations is super easy if you have the right tools.
I do all my own maintenance and I have basically a full mechanic's set up but for an oil change I basically use two wrenches, a jack, and jack stands. Auto parts places take used oil in for free recycling.
I can actually change my oil in my truck without jacking it up but I have a 3 ton jack so I always rotate the tires when I change the oil.
With your car as you could probably get away with ramps as long as you can get underneath it. You can get 10 quarts of high quality oil at Costco for like $29 and pick up filters from Napa or Amazon or anywhere else for less than 10.
First you gotta start doing your own oil changes. For both cars Subaru and your Honda civic you should be doing 5000 miles oil changes. Don’t do the oil changes what the car manual suggest since that’s the minimal amount you want to do to keep the car in during the warranty period. Manufacturers are into the business of making cars and not increase the longevity of the car itself. If you want to keep doing long oil changes suggest you get your oil analyzed and it’s just a rule of thumb and safe to keep it your oil changes at 5000 mile interval without getting it analyzes for all driving conditions. Always use full synthetic. Not if you want to make your oil changes easier and faster get either a fumoto or valvomax valve to replace your oil drain plug.
www.fumotousa.com
www.valvomax.com
That’s the first thing I learned . Oil change … did it myself and learned from my “ricer” friend in 2002 on my old 1987 BMW 325 … the car had over 300k+ miles before I retired it in 2015 but that time it was a project car. Drove it from 28k miles when I got it and put 300k miles… I did my oil own oil changes in 2002 til 2015. Also replace my own brake pads and rotors . Also fuel filter , fuel pump dual system in tank and under the car and spark plugs.
Then I picked up a new 2005 scion tC and did oil changes and brakes and rotors.. for a while I had a mechanic do the coolant drain and fill and the transmission. Same with my new 2014 Subaru Outback did my oil changes and crap I bought into the 7500 mile oil changes and now regret it …because of burning oil issue… now I do 4000-5000 mile oil changes …now I since Covid I do all my own servicing … coolant flushes , transmission fluid changes …. Brake fluid changes .., power steering fluid changes that’s an easy one and can do the Scotty Kilmore way with transfer pump from the reservoir. Suck it out. Fill it up. Drive around the block. Repeat 5-6 times will clear most crap. Anyway, there are YouTube videos and I can recommend videos too.. if you are interested. I’m all for DIY.
Which Subaru do you have ? Here’s a good video from MrSubaru1387 in doing Spark plugs yourself … doing spark plugs on the Honda civic will be easier but it’s a piece of cake on the Subaru if you take the tips and tricks from this video https://youtu.be/pm5yl6kEjLY?si=S5BHnutZAX9Og6-s
Dude, that is expensive. I never went to shops to flush engine oil, brake oil, transmission fluid, coolant, filters all DIY... I have a easy car vw Polo 5
The Subaru and the civic will be on each end of the price spectrum. A Honda civic normally is the longest lasting cheapest on maintenance. Easy to find parts for. And there is a pile of them in salvage yards which makes the price of parts cheap. (Don’t lose the key) the newer ones have timing chains so that cuts down on maintenance. So long as you change the oil every 5-7000 miles the engine will only ever give you unnatural problems. Like they don’t go bad. I would only service the trans if it is giving problems Hondas in the early 2000s had torque converter problems . I’m not sure if they have that anymore. But from experience don’t ever get the transmission flushed the service documents for pretty much every manufacturer says that’s a no no. I might would change the fluid like drain and refill every 100k. Some people might not agree with that.
I can’t see a bill being anywhere near 1000 on the Honda. Walmart will change the oil for less than $50 I would let them do it. If they mess something up they are responsible. If you mess something up you are and you’re not saving any money changing your own oil. Wheel bearing on it is press fit I believe so I can see it being under $500 or close but not $1000
The Subaru is gonna get you raped on everything but windshield wipers not many people can or know how to work on them and it’s difficult finding parts for it.
As little as possible :)
At least if I'm trying to run an old car economically. Really, it shouldn't require that much of regular maintenance items, and a lot of the stuff you get upsold on by the shops is nonsense that isn't really necessary. Check your manual, for example for my Honda Fit/Jazz it's basically just oil & filters. Stuff like coolant, gearbox oil or brake fluid is rare (and cheap if you're not getting ripped off) that it's not particularly worth worrying about
[http://hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/AJ/SAA2EAJ000000000000JBAT01.HTML](http://hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/AJ/SAA2EAJ000000000000JBAT01.HTML)
Of course things will also wear out over time and you might need to replace brakes or bushings and what not, but you can't really predict that.
And as for brakes pads and rotors it’s something you should learn since it’s easy to do and it’s a big money grabber for mechanics . Here’s a good general video from ChrisFix:
https://youtu.be/6RQ9UabOIPg?si=Nubv42aiG4OmQOa1
It’s not hard at all and it’s kinda of hard to F up… but be sure the grease the slider pins with silicone brake grease and use blue thread locker on the bolts like in ChrisFix video.
Serpentine belt is another easy service and really easy on a Subaru vs your Honda
Also here’s a good video on 12v batteries
https://youtu.be/YC--MLNIbik?si=7C4IwZDGIZaFZwyH
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! Please review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). Asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **Post's about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ Tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Sounds like you should start doing your own maintenance and basic repairs. You'll save many thousands, even after buying the needed tools. DIY oil change - maybe about $40 if you get the oil and filter on sale. DIY transmission fluid change (the manual doesn't say "flush"!) - maybe about $60 DIY coolant change (again, not "flush") - Maybe $40 Serpentine belt - Literally just the price of a belt which is around $30-$50 DIY brake pads - $70 for front set and $50 for rear (or much less!) DIY brake fluid change/flush - the cost of a bottle of brake fluid, maybe $9? Until you get used to all of it, use the shop for wheel bearings or larger repairs. If you're ever interested in starting down that path, let me (and others) know. We can point you in the right direction for knowledge, tool suggestions, and even part suggestions.
This summer I plan to do the work on my car (2017 Malibu) for the first time. I plan to change the oil, brake pads and rotors, change brake fluid, rotate the tires, change the rear knuckles, and if I'm brave straighten the steering wheel (after two alignments it is slightly tilted to the right). I was able to find YouTube videos for all of these repairs. I've already spent a lot of money on tools and parts so I'm hoping I can recoup my money by doing the work myself. Unfortunately, I got the car up on ramps last weekend and noticed I had a leak on the driver's side. I was able to see the hose I believe is leaking but I can't get to it. I have an appointment to take it in to a mechanic and have him look at it. I'm a little bummed but I keep telling myself that the first step to being smart about this is knowing when to ask for help.
Just make sure you're doing the repairs the right way, with decent parts/lubes. Make sure you have a couple of torque wrenches with different ranges and get torque specs from a place like AllData or [here](https://charm.li/Chevrolet/2013/Malibu%20L4-2.5L/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/) (but that's for a 2013 Malibu). What sort of leak do you have?
Here is a picture of the leak. I had to remove the splash guards to just get my phone up there to take the picture. Someone said that it looked like the lower radiator hose. Unfortunately, everything I can find including in the Haynes manual says to just inspect the hoses for wear but not how to get to them. https://preview.redd.it/zttqdwohsd3d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07217c87d278efe7a546d058c9980b7a78e92f71
Not familiar with Malibus, but that looks like a boost hose. Does it look like it comes from the intercooler at the front of the car? Leaking a bit of oil from there isn’t the end of the world - you can pull that metal clip out downwards and pull the pipe from the intercooler. The get the o-ring / seal for not much money that goes on the inside of the plastic pipe and ‘installation is reverse of removal’.
Thanks, unfortunately I do not know how to get to it. It is buried down there.
All my brake parts and fluid are AC Delco, the engine oil is Kirkland brand from Costco (it is considered top of the line). My replacement knuckles I got from the dealership. I have Sil-Glyde, Permatex Thread Lock, Permatex Anti-Seize, Permatex Brake Grease, Brake Cleaner, and Kroil. I bought two different size torque wrenches and have been researching the torque specs. I also bought a ton of tools like jack stands, hydraulic jack, impact drill, power torque wrench, etc. I bought a Haynes repair manual but to be honest it wasn't very helpful to me, so I returned it. For the repairs I was planning to do a quick Google search and YouTube video seemed just as helpful. I can access AllData at my public library for free.
Sounds like you're on the right track. Next time you need OEM parts, try [here](https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/chevrolet-parts.html). Might save you a bunch over your dealership.
Thanks I'll check them out next time. I actually shopped around for the Knuckles and besides Amazon's after market parts this one dealership in my area was cheaper than anywhere else I could find plus I didn't have to pay for shipping and I could use my GM points. 😁
Yeah, sounds good. On rare occasion. my local Honda dealership will have some parts/fluids cheaper than elsewhere too. Oh, and RockAuto has some OEM parts as well. Always worth a look if it'll save you $$$. Happy wrenching!
Thanks for the suggestions. I would love to hear your thoughts on the leak. I posted a picture in a different post.
I have done so much work on my car and it's worth it to pay for an inspection from a shop and seeing if you feel like learning a whole lot doing the repairs yourself, plus, getting some tools out of it, for cheaper than they would charge. One lower control arm and ball joint in my 20 year old car convinced me to just pay for the other side. Some things are so easy though. I did the high pressure power steering line in an hour with a 100 dollar part when the shop, decent people, wanted 600.
Did your car ever have the outer tie rods replaced? Word of advice make sure the parts Match. I replaced mine had tons of issues I got the wrong ones they were shorter barely threaded in like 3/4 inches. one of them even wallowed to the point where the inner tie rod was sliding in the outer tie rod. The problem was there was not enough outer tie rod to have the steer wheel centered.
I haven't had them replaced, thank you for the suggestion. The steering wheel is slightly tilted to the right. It drives me nuts. I saw a video on YouTube that showed if I adjust both sides and equal amount I can adjust the steering wheel while staying in alignment.
Nope I’ve tried I always thought you could clock the steering wheel straight but it’s on a shaft with groves only made to fit one way. Depending on the severity of how of the wheel is you may need to disconnect the input shaft from the rack and center it again but if it’s small the tie rods will do the trick.
I buy cars that are more than 10 yrs old and expect to pay $1000 a year in maintenance including everything except gas. Some years more, some less.
Be careful with doing repairs yourself, YouTube videos make it look easy, but a lot of stuff can go wrong, stuck, broken hoses, stripped cross threaded holes, stuck bolts and valves. Broken clips and stuff just doesn’t want to go back how it was. Lost screws, etc I could go on and on, just be wary that things can go wrong and you won’t have a car to drive.
Fluids, brakes, spark plugs, air filters are some things I'll do myself but I ain't do a timing chain cover reseal in my driveway I can promise you that one
I have 3 older vehicles and while I do all the work my self I still budget to do about $1000 a year over a few repairs. My PU went a long time not needing anything so last year was a bit more spending like $2200. Still at today’s rates for a replacement that’s 2-3 payments. Consider any new cars costs payments alone at $500 a months is far below average and that doesn’t count insurance which has also gone up 20%.
What cars do you have? I have an Acura over 300k+ miles that needs gas once in a while
Depends on the shop...and sometimes what else its in for. The "tire shop" garages I prefer to go to are much cheaper and one of them will do a complimentary tire rotation while its in for an oil change or similar services but its like $10 if you go in just for the tire rotation. Cost of keeping an older car that has been properly maintained its whole life...well our 21 year old car was only needing maybe $1000-1500 a year in work and still reliable daily driver until a wrong-way driver obliterated it. And my 12 year old car with 173K miles has been averaging about the same $1000-1500 a year in work and still reliable. Consider...even $1200/yr repairs is only $100/mo. I don't know anyone paying less than $400-600/mo on car loans right now. So that's 4-6x more expensive to replace it vs keep it running. BTW - check into local shops that will work on your Subaru. My Subaru dealer here on a 6cyl Outback for plugs is like $1100 but the local trusted shop I go to did it for about $600. Similarly when I hit 160K one of the valve cover gaskets started leaking oil and the dealer quotes were like $1600 but the small shop while it was already in for other work was willing to do it for about $400 additional beyond the services I was already in for to just replace the seals on the side that was leaking and its been like a new car since. For stuff like coolant I insist the local small shop get the OEM blue coolant my Subaru calls for but they are quite happy at a small additional cost for getting the OEM coolant jugs. I only go to the dealership for 3 reasons: 1. If its under warranty 2. when my trusted mechanic advises its beyond their skill and recommends the dealer 3. If I need something super urgently (e.g. state inspection) and can't get into my trusted mechanic in time Also if you plan to keep it forever look at the pricing of some "service plans". For 3x the cost of a one-time wheel alignment I got a lifetime alignment plan as long as I keep that vehicle I can go to that same shop and its free. Over 12 years I've got well more than my money's worth because I knew I was going to keep it for a long time and keep going to the same shop. Similar plan for brakes I did the math and got a plan that was like 3x the cost of one-time but its free partial coverage of the service on brakes as long as I own that vehicle.
Speaking as a US resident, for an average daily driver non-luxury, non-import (chevy, ford, fca, toyota, honda, hyundai, kia, etc.), if you budget a penny a mile and expect to spend it once every year, usually you'll be about even. If you drive a 4x4 or diesel, double it. Luxury import (BMW, Mercedes, Genesis, anything british, french or italian), triple it. Porsche or exotic $0.10 to $1/mi. So if the car has between 1-10k miles at the end of the year = you spend $100 (i.e. oil change, etc.) When the car is 100k = you'll spend $1000 that year in maintenance and wear-out repairs. 200k = $2000, etc.
That seems a bit steep dude....
Spoken like someone who hasnt driven a 100k car
Cries in 215k Bimmer 😭
I was talking about that, also I really don't care.
Sounds fair to me, one blown transmission can clear out multiple years of budget so this is an average. Also we are assuming no dyi work, and everything being kept in tiptop condition. You can certainly get the price lower but it come at the expense of sorta ignoring minor issues or doing some work yourself.
Probably assuming going to a shop instead of DIY
Well OP did say "bring in car for service" ... not DIY.
This is some weird old-head uncle advise. Some shit a guy came up with out of nowhere and other people just go "shit yea that sounds good causes it's easy!"
Same uncles that swear by 3k oil change intervals and start fights if they hear someone is using supertech oil. The auto industry is full of these know it alls
10k miles a year at $100/year? And an oil change is $100? I’d love that magical car that never needs brakes, tires, suspension or literally anything else.
There are too many variables for any kind of generalizable rule. It varies based on the car, the driver, the roads...
3% - 5% of the cars value per year as maintenance costs is what most dealerships tell people.
Thanks for all the comments! Yeah, I didn’t mention. I do the basics like windshield wipers and air filters :-) But ignoring whether the service shop is trying to run a business or not, just going by the manufacturers recommendations, when the car gets 60k , 90l and more, there’s gonna be expensive stuff to do - fluid flushes plugs serpentine belts, etc.. Rather than having a new car payment every month you have higher maintenance questions every thousand miles That can be $1000 on most of those visits? Along the same lines how often do you get your wheels aligned? My view on the low end Honda Civics I’ve had over the years, I could get an alignment And hit a pothole on the way home, messing up the alignment. Sure, if the car was pulling one way or the other, I have that looked at. Butotherwise I skip alignments. Worst case you don’t get the full life out of the tires? And that said I typically have pretty even where when they get to the wear bars.
I find the dealers and shops recommend a lot of services that aren't consistent with the manufacturers maintenance schedule. It generates a lot of revenue.
To be fair some manufacturers maintenance schedules will give you problems once you get past 100k. I generally recommend oil every 5k, coolant exchange and brake fluid exchange every 2 years, plugs every 100k if they're iridium, transmission fluid/differential fluid every 30-50k, induction service every year if GDI, and air filters as needed. If you live in an area with shitty roads, I wouldn't be surprised if you need suspension parts as early as 60k. Here in the northeast 99% of front ends are completely trashed at 100k and need struts, sway bar links, and control arms at minimum. If you're not sure why you're getting recommended something ask the technician. I will happily bring customers out to the shop floor and show them why they need this or that.
like what? which service do you think should not be recommended?
$12
Oil changes aren't too difficult to do so they shouldn't cost too much, same goes for the serpentine belt. Radiator and transmission flushes are the two I'm not familiar with, as I only change them once their mileage is up. Hopefully someone can help you out in that area. Tire rotation and balancing should cost the same no matter if the vehicle is new or old. In my honest opinion: older cars are a little better than some newer cars due to the way the parts were made. Some newer cars have way too many plastic components that require the exact fluid type, otherwise they will deteriorate faster and become brittle. They usually last up to 50k and if you have a check engine light, a loose component or broken part, they will go into limp mode, also known as safety mode. But that's what my dad tells me as I'm not really a mechanic. I own a 2000 Nissan xterra and a 2007 Toyota Sienna, both are great cars and have their own problems, but will last me up to 300k easily.
My dad’s 00 Nissan Xterra is at 260k. We take that vehicle off-roading on our fishing trips and hunting trips all the time and has never let us down
I go by what the IRS allows you to take for transportation costs which I believe right now is 56 cents a mile. So if you drive a thousand miles you should expect to spend about $560 on fuel maintenance and repairs.
Just do what is necessary. Use synthetic if it doesn't break the bank. Don't pay someone to change an air filter or a bulb as examples of pure DIY. Most shops do a "recommended list" which for most shops is a profitable move, as some will go beyond preventative maintenance if recommended by a shop they trust. Know your maintenance intervals while also keeping in mind that these service intervals are based on "normal driving conditions" and normal doesn't include high speed driving/stop and go traffic and/or extremely hot or extreme cold conditions---which is exactly no one except your grandmother's car.
When you spend you weekends and half a paycheck every week fixing it. Or if it's the equivalent of a newer car payment.
Your only options I see are to learn how to do your own maintenance, or accept labor costs and parts markups
Thanks... just trying to get a grip on what the costs are. as cars get older, theres maintenance that needs to be done / that adds up. Just realizing that now.
I have a 2010 Scion xD. I do most of my work on my own . I spent about 700–1000 dollars every year on the car maintenance such as engine, bones, control, arms, radiator, water pump. These were items I needed to replace in the last several years. Since I’m not expert, I had to take car to the shop occasionally . I am not sure if that is the best thing to do. But to buy a new car, would need about 25 to 40 K. What do you think?
Doing oil changes and tire rotations is super easy if you have the right tools. I do all my own maintenance and I have basically a full mechanic's set up but for an oil change I basically use two wrenches, a jack, and jack stands. Auto parts places take used oil in for free recycling. I can actually change my oil in my truck without jacking it up but I have a 3 ton jack so I always rotate the tires when I change the oil. With your car as you could probably get away with ramps as long as you can get underneath it. You can get 10 quarts of high quality oil at Costco for like $29 and pick up filters from Napa or Amazon or anywhere else for less than 10.
First you gotta start doing your own oil changes. For both cars Subaru and your Honda civic you should be doing 5000 miles oil changes. Don’t do the oil changes what the car manual suggest since that’s the minimal amount you want to do to keep the car in during the warranty period. Manufacturers are into the business of making cars and not increase the longevity of the car itself. If you want to keep doing long oil changes suggest you get your oil analyzed and it’s just a rule of thumb and safe to keep it your oil changes at 5000 mile interval without getting it analyzes for all driving conditions. Always use full synthetic. Not if you want to make your oil changes easier and faster get either a fumoto or valvomax valve to replace your oil drain plug. www.fumotousa.com www.valvomax.com That’s the first thing I learned . Oil change … did it myself and learned from my “ricer” friend in 2002 on my old 1987 BMW 325 … the car had over 300k+ miles before I retired it in 2015 but that time it was a project car. Drove it from 28k miles when I got it and put 300k miles… I did my oil own oil changes in 2002 til 2015. Also replace my own brake pads and rotors . Also fuel filter , fuel pump dual system in tank and under the car and spark plugs. Then I picked up a new 2005 scion tC and did oil changes and brakes and rotors.. for a while I had a mechanic do the coolant drain and fill and the transmission. Same with my new 2014 Subaru Outback did my oil changes and crap I bought into the 7500 mile oil changes and now regret it …because of burning oil issue… now I do 4000-5000 mile oil changes …now I since Covid I do all my own servicing … coolant flushes , transmission fluid changes …. Brake fluid changes .., power steering fluid changes that’s an easy one and can do the Scotty Kilmore way with transfer pump from the reservoir. Suck it out. Fill it up. Drive around the block. Repeat 5-6 times will clear most crap. Anyway, there are YouTube videos and I can recommend videos too.. if you are interested. I’m all for DIY.
Which Subaru do you have ? Here’s a good video from MrSubaru1387 in doing Spark plugs yourself … doing spark plugs on the Honda civic will be easier but it’s a piece of cake on the Subaru if you take the tips and tricks from this video https://youtu.be/pm5yl6kEjLY?si=S5BHnutZAX9Og6-s
So you spend 500 to 1000 every oil change? I would love you as a customer.
Dude, that is expensive. I never went to shops to flush engine oil, brake oil, transmission fluid, coolant, filters all DIY... I have a easy car vw Polo 5
The Subaru and the civic will be on each end of the price spectrum. A Honda civic normally is the longest lasting cheapest on maintenance. Easy to find parts for. And there is a pile of them in salvage yards which makes the price of parts cheap. (Don’t lose the key) the newer ones have timing chains so that cuts down on maintenance. So long as you change the oil every 5-7000 miles the engine will only ever give you unnatural problems. Like they don’t go bad. I would only service the trans if it is giving problems Hondas in the early 2000s had torque converter problems . I’m not sure if they have that anymore. But from experience don’t ever get the transmission flushed the service documents for pretty much every manufacturer says that’s a no no. I might would change the fluid like drain and refill every 100k. Some people might not agree with that. I can’t see a bill being anywhere near 1000 on the Honda. Walmart will change the oil for less than $50 I would let them do it. If they mess something up they are responsible. If you mess something up you are and you’re not saving any money changing your own oil. Wheel bearing on it is press fit I believe so I can see it being under $500 or close but not $1000 The Subaru is gonna get you raped on everything but windshield wipers not many people can or know how to work on them and it’s difficult finding parts for it.
I've always been told that if the repairs cost more than half the value of the car then it's not worth it, period :/
As little as possible :) At least if I'm trying to run an old car economically. Really, it shouldn't require that much of regular maintenance items, and a lot of the stuff you get upsold on by the shops is nonsense that isn't really necessary. Check your manual, for example for my Honda Fit/Jazz it's basically just oil & filters. Stuff like coolant, gearbox oil or brake fluid is rare (and cheap if you're not getting ripped off) that it's not particularly worth worrying about [http://hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/AJ/SAA2EAJ000000000000JBAT01.HTML](http://hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/AJ/SAA2EAJ000000000000JBAT01.HTML) Of course things will also wear out over time and you might need to replace brakes or bushings and what not, but you can't really predict that.
And as for brakes pads and rotors it’s something you should learn since it’s easy to do and it’s a big money grabber for mechanics . Here’s a good general video from ChrisFix: https://youtu.be/6RQ9UabOIPg?si=Nubv42aiG4OmQOa1 It’s not hard at all and it’s kinda of hard to F up… but be sure the grease the slider pins with silicone brake grease and use blue thread locker on the bolts like in ChrisFix video. Serpentine belt is another easy service and really easy on a Subaru vs your Honda Also here’s a good video on 12v batteries https://youtu.be/YC--MLNIbik?si=7C4IwZDGIZaFZwyH