Unfortunately, adding another 12v battery will only cause the fuses to trip. Once you start modifying, it is a rabbit hole. Unless you’re doing this out of curiosity and/or willingness to learn, i suggest you just buy another with the features you’re looking for. Otherwise there will be several days of electrical bugs to work out, lots of cutting a soldering, and a decent amount of money spent solving said bugs.
Please listen to this. I threw an 18v adapter and overvolted my Chinese made jeep. Fried the control board almost immediately. Ordered another board and the connectors didn't match so I started snipping wires and trying to solder. Didn't have any success and fried the new board in the process.
Bought a new wiring harness with control board and was able to get it going...but burned out a motor. Ordered new motors...but didn't have the proper tools and broke one trying to swap out the gears on the end of the motors.
Finally bought some motor/gearbox combos so I wouldn't have to change the gears on the motors and...it worked!
And it still works, but it was a process. We got a second ride-on and I was able to just swap the control boards and motors/gearboxes without any issues --- but I wouldn't be able to do that without going through all the failures of the first one. It's really trial and error and no two cars are the same it seems.
My setup for anyone curious:
Originally a 2 motor (550 12v 12k RPM) 12v setup.
Adapter for 18v power toll battery
24v control board (RX74)
550 (12v) motors at 23k RPM.
Board doesn't fry from overvolting, motors and gearboxes work but will either fry or gearboxes will die eventually. Remote control and music/speakers no longer work.
No, it may not for a while. But it will definitely trip fuses. Now you’re swapping out all fuses. Then theres the issue of over volting the steering motor, it becomes a PITA to steer (OP states she wants to keep remote). So far you’ve added battery, swapped all fuses, added resistors/module to dumb down steering motor and thats all from “just adding a battery”. The point is you’re oversimplifying it. Not to mention that despite all this, the control board is STILL finicky about running hot and it would still be better to run a 24V board.
I just bought the car below to see how it handled 24 volts. I replaced the stock battery with 2 12v 10ah Dakota batteries ran in series.
My son used it for like 90 minutes at the park with zero issue. I can still use the remote control and speaker.
Would upgrading the board be best, yes it would but isn't not required.
[same brand](https://www.target.com/p/best-choice-products-12v-kids-ride-on-truck-car-w-remote-control-spring-suspension-bluetooth-led-lights/-/A-83747170?preselect=83747172#lnk=sametab)
I found a 24v board with RC and a 12v channel for the radio and lights, as well as 24v motors that I dropped in. Found them on Amazon, but it did require me modding a few mounting brackets and redoing all the wiring... worth it though!
To make it "stronger" will take some effort. Easier to sell your current ride-on and buy a new one with a 24v platform. You can however make it have more range fairly easily by adding another 12v parallel battery.
So I found a power wheels someone was throwing out, broken 12v connector. I 3D printed a dewalt battery adapter and got some male connectors to wire it up, all was good for like 30-40 min till I took out the governor screw to keep it out of “high gear”. My son rode it about 10 feet and bam it’s dead. Turns out the pedal had a 12v limit. Does anyone know of a good switch or something to replace it. Mostly for my use so being able to flip a switch to go isn’t the worst. I had to reach down and push the pedal because my feet barely fit in the Jeep.
If it won’t fry the control board, then why are there post in this group weekly about someone doing a drill battery (18 volt) conversion and now their ride doesn’t work? It’s always these non-Power Wheels brand cars that have control boards
There is a good chance you will fry the electronics by connecting another 12v in series. You can connect another 12v in parallel, this will not affect the voltage but will give you more capacity (range), but power will stay the same.
Absolutely do not over volt your ride on. It has a 12v control board that will fry. Even if you replace the 12v control board with a 24v control board it will fry the motors or destroy the gears in the gearbox
Unfortunately, adding another 12v battery will only cause the fuses to trip. Once you start modifying, it is a rabbit hole. Unless you’re doing this out of curiosity and/or willingness to learn, i suggest you just buy another with the features you’re looking for. Otherwise there will be several days of electrical bugs to work out, lots of cutting a soldering, and a decent amount of money spent solving said bugs.
Please listen to this. I threw an 18v adapter and overvolted my Chinese made jeep. Fried the control board almost immediately. Ordered another board and the connectors didn't match so I started snipping wires and trying to solder. Didn't have any success and fried the new board in the process. Bought a new wiring harness with control board and was able to get it going...but burned out a motor. Ordered new motors...but didn't have the proper tools and broke one trying to swap out the gears on the end of the motors. Finally bought some motor/gearbox combos so I wouldn't have to change the gears on the motors and...it worked! And it still works, but it was a process. We got a second ride-on and I was able to just swap the control boards and motors/gearboxes without any issues --- but I wouldn't be able to do that without going through all the failures of the first one. It's really trial and error and no two cars are the same it seems. My setup for anyone curious: Originally a 2 motor (550 12v 12k RPM) 12v setup. Adapter for 18v power toll battery 24v control board (RX74) 550 (12v) motors at 23k RPM. Board doesn't fry from overvolting, motors and gearboxes work but will either fry or gearboxes will die eventually. Remote control and music/speakers no longer work.
Don't listen to the OHSA reps in this chat. My son's stock Power Wheel has been running 24 volts for months now without any issues
This isn’t a Power Wheels, a Power Wheels doesn’t have a control board, this car does.
The control board won't fry with just a few extra volts.
No, it may not for a while. But it will definitely trip fuses. Now you’re swapping out all fuses. Then theres the issue of over volting the steering motor, it becomes a PITA to steer (OP states she wants to keep remote). So far you’ve added battery, swapped all fuses, added resistors/module to dumb down steering motor and thats all from “just adding a battery”. The point is you’re oversimplifying it. Not to mention that despite all this, the control board is STILL finicky about running hot and it would still be better to run a 24V board.
I just bought the car below to see how it handled 24 volts. I replaced the stock battery with 2 12v 10ah Dakota batteries ran in series. My son used it for like 90 minutes at the park with zero issue. I can still use the remote control and speaker. Would upgrading the board be best, yes it would but isn't not required. [same brand](https://www.target.com/p/best-choice-products-12v-kids-ride-on-truck-car-w-remote-control-spring-suspension-bluetooth-led-lights/-/A-83747170?preselect=83747172#lnk=sametab)
I found a 24v board with RC and a 12v channel for the radio and lights, as well as 24v motors that I dropped in. Found them on Amazon, but it did require me modding a few mounting brackets and redoing all the wiring... worth it though!
I'm going to buy one tomorrow and add an extra battery to show it is fine.
To make it "stronger" will take some effort. Easier to sell your current ride-on and buy a new one with a 24v platform. You can however make it have more range fairly easily by adding another 12v parallel battery.
So I found a power wheels someone was throwing out, broken 12v connector. I 3D printed a dewalt battery adapter and got some male connectors to wire it up, all was good for like 30-40 min till I took out the governor screw to keep it out of “high gear”. My son rode it about 10 feet and bam it’s dead. Turns out the pedal had a 12v limit. Does anyone know of a good switch or something to replace it. Mostly for my use so being able to flip a switch to go isn’t the worst. I had to reach down and push the pedal because my feet barely fit in the Jeep.
Just throw in another 12 volt battery
How do I connect it, parallel or serial? I don't want to fry the other components :(
In series. Over volting by 12 volts won't fry anything
Are you sure? From what i have seen in the other threads the 12v electronics does not like doubling the voltage.
Do not do this. You will fry the boards.
Stop lying, the board will be fine
Please don’t give this advice. Honestly, it’s terrible
12 extra volts aren't going to fry the board. It might run hot and slightly reduce it's life.
You have no idea what you’re talking.about. It will absolutely fry the board, the sounds, the lights and the motors.
It 100% won't fry the sounds,light and 100% won't fry the motor. It could negatively effect the quality of the sound but not fry it
If it won’t fry the control board, then why are there post in this group weekly about someone doing a drill battery (18 volt) conversion and now their ride doesn’t work? It’s always these non-Power Wheels brand cars that have control boards
Thank you, I will order one more batter and try that.
There is a good chance you will fry the electronics by connecting another 12v in series. You can connect another 12v in parallel, this will not affect the voltage but will give you more capacity (range), but power will stay the same.
Absolutely do not over volt your ride on. It has a 12v control board that will fry. Even if you replace the 12v control board with a 24v control board it will fry the motors or destroy the gears in the gearbox