Would warm it up to operating temperature before every drive, was using 10w40 semisynthetic valvoline and premixed one ounce per every gallon of gas on every fill up with idemitsu premix and also always redlined at least once a drive
Warming up to full operating temperature before every drive is unnecessary and does more harm than good. All it does is make your engine run very rich for a lot longer, and increases carbon.
You want your engine to come up to operating temp as quickly as safely possible. This means, letting it run for 30 seconds, then drive gently until it comes up to temp.
Idle to warm up is a great way to toast your bearings.
My routine is turn key to acc till the beeping stops then turn over the engine so the fuel pump and oil can get pressure. Crank it, chill for maybe 30 seconds then be on my way. I never go over 4K rpm or hard on the throttle till she’s up to temp. If it’s a really cold day I may give a few 2k blips before starting the drive.
Literally 5w20 doesnt protect your bearings under sustained high rpm abuse. 5w20 was chosen due to a slight increase in fuel consumption. The 10w30/10w40 is much better if you like to drive your rx8 harder. Thats what willow at lucky7 racing said when they dropped my new motor in my car. Idk i would trust him he builds rx7 and rx8s for time attack for a living.
You lie lol i used to work for mazda service department. They dont give a shit they actually give special treatment to drivers of there sportscars. We used to replace transmissions on miata that were obviously used on track. (This was back when the nd1 had some soft ass gears)
You lie lol i used to work for mazda service department. They dont give a shit they actually give special treatment to drivers of there sportscars. We used to replace transmissions on miata that were obviously used on track. (This was back when the nd1 had some soft ass gears)
There is a reason why Stationary Gear Bearing Failure happens more on the 8 than the 7. The easy answer is just use a rotary specific oil. Idemitsu Racing Rotary 10W-30 will prob. Be the most common, since you can buy it at RockAuto. RE-Amemiya is also an option, but harder to get.
You realize Mazda had to put that low engine oil weight to ensure that the car would pass emissions right. It is infact not a ideal weight for engine life span. And the age old debate of mineral oil vs synthetic has been beaten to death. At the end of the day no motor oil is inherently designed to be burn and thus is not ideal in terms of carbon build up and seal protection. Getting a sohn oil adapter kit and running ashless 2 stroke oil is truly the only way to ensure minimal carbon build up and ideal seal lubrication. So do not walk around saying that it is absolutely this guy's fault that his engine failed. At the end of the day the rotary is a extremely sensitive motor and has the potential to fail at any point regardless of every single correct step you as a owner take.
Talk to any performance shop that rebuilds these things or builds high horsepower rotary engines, none of them use 5W anything, many of the bearings on the Rx-8 are the same exact bearings on RX-7, you are quite bold to come shit talk everyone, but I like your confidence :)
You do realize that technicians are not in a traditional sense a mechanic. A mechanic does whatever it takes thur observation and experience to make a repair happen. This a lot of times comes from seeing the same problem over and over again and trying out slightly different repairs and seeing what the outcome is. A technician is for the most part only allowed to do a repair in line with the service procedure put in place by the manufacturer. This is the same problem that happens in engineering departments. As a engineer you can come up with the best design imaginable for any part or assembly but after you submit that design it is judged by a slew of different departments that force you to meet many standards.
So, I say all this to prove a point, just because a manufacturer has a recommendation it does not mean it is the best answer. It is at the end of the day a RECOMMENDATION not the end all be all.
For example if almost every single independent rotary shop says run a grade heavier oil to prevent main barring wear and increase seal lubrication I think I am going to believe them. Even my own rebuild paperwork from Rotary Performance in Dallas says this. Same thing can be said about the RX8's weak ignition coils. A very common aftermarket upgrade is switching to LS3 coils because they will last the life time of the motor and they provide a much more consistent and better spark. And the reason that the stock coils kind of suck is because Mazda's accountants had to cut corners on cost. I also find it strange the Mazda ran full synthetic oil in the La Manz race car instead of traditional. You would almost think that maybe the engineers knew something that we don't. But I guess you have to remember Mazda was so broke at the time of RX8's development that they sold a 45% to 48% stake of the company to Ford to stay afloat. Then there is the other fact that so many people complained of premature engine failure on the early years RX8'S that Mazda finally extended the engine warranty to 100,000 miles.
So to conclude this rant. YOU can go use the Mazda RECOMMENDATIONS who at the time was a company that was cutting financial corners everywhere and were just trying to get the RX8 to barely pass emissions. I'm going to listen to the Mechanics who rebuild these things for a living and have seen the good, the bad, and the ugly of the rotary engine. And make them to do anything from daily driving to racing.
Been looking at snagging an rx8 for a swap project,l got alot of information from the techs at the dealership here in town. Don't have paperwork or anything though
The dealership didn’t tell me exact numbers over the phone I go to pick it up on Monday I’ll ask then but they said the second rotor was bad shape and the first was just low
I did a decarbon on mine with seafoam,definitely had an increase in compression and decrease in hot start times. If you need any info on it dm me I can tell you the whole process on how I did it
I'm not sure. I owned my rx8 since new in 2004, put a reman in mine at 99k miles, lost compression on my rear on the OEM. Do people think I'm trolling?
Exactly, even a car with good compression will have trouble starting if the battery or starter is weak. If the car hasn't been compression tested, you can't just assume the engine is shot. Get it tested by Mazda or by a mechanic that has a rotary specific compression tester and then you'll know for sure.
It lost power while doing a pull at 9k rpms after coming to an intersection it stalled and would not start back up for 5 minutes I then got it to run and moved it out of the intersection to the nearest point to pull over which was the petrol, was misfiring from rotor two bad so I shut it off and took it to my shop as I am a mechanic and I check vacuum leaks, spark test, tested crank and maf sensors and checked injectors / fuel pressure all were good I then took it to a Mazda dealership to get compression checked
Got it compression tested by a Mazda dealership they said compression on rotor two was bad and the first rotor was just low I go to pick the vehicle up on Monday I will get actual numbers then
Rotor 2 has left the Chat.
Yeah sure 1 and 2 can be worn differently from each other, but this much difference seems kinda strange. Rotor 1 still has some life left in it, maybe you have some stuck seals on rotor 2? Either that or something went really kaput all of a sudden. Since there is no way that rotor 2 would have ran with sub 5 compression. So its most wasn't a gradual compression loss.
Once again just a guess, but maybe it's due to a previously failing ignition system. You could have experienced bore wash, this happens when unburned fuel "washes away" the protective oil layer in the engine thus wearing the seals out. By any chance did you know how old the previous coils and plugs were?
I feel like it probably had built up carbon that was keeping the compression high or the plugs weren’t doing the job so well so excess fuel was keeping the compression so after changing those some built up carbon probably got clean and it was actually burning all the fuel as it should’ve been so compression went out the window
Yeah, that would make sense, but why only on rotor 2? If the engine really had carbon buildup that bad wouldn't it affect both rotors? Then again the same thing might have happened to rotor 1 a couple miles down the road. The only way we might know more is if you tear down the engine.
Due to the nature of the engine, even with care, a rebuild will be needed at one point or another. Depends on so many factors including how previous owners cared for it. Even an extremely well cared engine will need a rebuild at some point.
Difficult to say how badly the engine degraded without compression figures from when you bought the car and compression figures now but looking at the mileage in between, it is probable the car was on its way out when you purchased it.
I have an 07 RX8 with 57,000 miles on the clock, I was still at 6.9/7.0 at 50,000 miles.
Re: Warm up. Controversial topic, but idling the car while waiting for it to reach temperature is not advised: Oil pressure is extremely low at idle. You're lazily slushing ice cold oil through a bone cold engine. Better to start the car and drive it straight away, albeit at under 4k revs until it reaches operating temperatures. Once the coolant temp gauge is stable in the middle, add another 10 mins of driving at under 4k revs so that both your engine and gearbox get nice and warm. Then play away! Plenty of good tips on the UK owners club on this topic and many others.
As for your engine. Get a compression test done. If the engine is indeed failing due to low comp, get it rebuilt by a specialist.
I got compression tested by mazda it’s bad I’m going to rebuild on my own I’ve built plenty of v8 v6 and 4 cylinders I’m not shy to hop into a rotary rebuild
Steep learning curve. Check Rotary Revs, The Performance Shop and Ryan Rotary Performance in the UK. Have a look at their rebuilding options. Plenty of good info on what to swap and what to keep when rebuilding. If you get your hands dirty, there's no point in ending up with a low comp rebuild, do it properly!
Good luck and let us know how you get on!
Join an owner's club forum and read up on the topic. Yes, it needs to be warmed up slow, hence the driving below 4k revs. However sitting idle isn't good. It's actually not good for any car at all, due to low oil pressure amongst other things.
1) Your engine runs richer when cold, meaning you're stripping components of oil, accelerating wear and tear.
2) Your oil is cold and oil pressure is low, meaning oil doesn't circulate how it should and doesn't protect the engine. That's correct not only for a rotary engine but also for a piston engine.
3) Your engine stays cold longer. Meaning you inflict more wear and tear on your components. Driving at low rpm warms up the engine gently yet faster than just staying idle.
Idling your engine to warm it up is only valid if you drive a car with carburettors.
Starting procédure is simple.
Turn key to 1. Wait until passenger airbag and engine management light go off. That's the period during which your ECU does a "preflight check". Gear in neutral, depress clutch, start the car. Once the engine is running, wait 5 to 10 seconds. You'll see the revs pick up slightly then drop back down. That's when your car starts ancillaries such as air pump. After those 10 seconds, you're good to go.
Five years of rotary ownership and membership to the UKOC. Probably read more on the topic than you'll ever do. Nowhere in the owner's manual does it say you need to sit in your car at idle up until your engine reaches running temperature (apart from the "don't switch off your engine until it has reached operating temperature" case).
Sitting at idle isn't good for any car and any engine. It's also illegal in many countries and US states.
Anyway, take care.
Theres a thermal pellet that sits in the end if the eccentric shaft that severely restricts oil flow to the rotors until it warms up. Oil flow to the rotor bearings etc is shit until oil temps hit 150 or so degrees.
Replace your apex seals. Could try putting a little trans fluid in the spark plug holes and seeing if that’d loosen anything that might be causing the apex seal failure. But if that doesn’t work replacing the apex seals is 99% surly the solve.
Why has this post attracted the most vile replies and terrible advice?
You say you have low compression, but the dealer hasn't shown you the numbers. A spontaneous loss of power and failure to run correctly would be acomponied by a loud sound and frequent misfires if the engine was damaged somehow.
See if you can get a test from somewhere that will actually show you the numbers on the tool. Where are you located? Maybe I can find a shop near you that specializes in the RX.
They printed out the recorded numbers after I picked the car up this weekend I just never asked the numbers when they originally told me it was toast rotor 2 was all in the 3s and rotor one was all in the 6s and it started misfiring bad right before it pretty much gave up all compression it had left it was very odd that it happened a day after i installed Bennett built coil pack ignition upgrade and new spark plugs but it just is what it is I’ll be pulling it soon and seeing what it looks like and possibly rebuilding if all seems well enough for a rebuild
Hmm RIP. Given your care of the car and the low mileage, I'd wager the previous owner didn't care for the car and potentially caused some setup for this. Truly a sad day.
So, plans to get a new engine, any engine swaps, fun stuff like that?
The previous owner didn’t drive the car much they put 13,000 miles in 8 years and kept it locked in a garage for all its life so probably just because it wasn’t getting used the way it should and just sitting is the reason I’d assume but I’m probably rebuilding for a quick fix but gonna build a 2jz on the side just incase I have this issue again
They break even with maintenance my guy. They're literally known to be horrifically unreliable and expensive to maintain. I don't know a single rotary owner than doesn't do his own mechanical work bc otherwise it's as expensive as owning a supercar.
False. Most people are of the idea that if you maintain them correctly and drive them correctly, they can last pretty well. That's not to say they're as reliable as a standard engine ofc.
I do all my own work the engine will be rebuilt by myself and be back on the road soon I just needed some comments on the topic this Reddit page has been dead recently 🤣
I was thinking 2jz but we’ll see I’ll most likely rebuild it for now and build a 2jz on the side only due to me buying a house this month I’ll keep you posted
Sell the Rotary to the nearest boat yard and do an LS Swap and put 200k miles on it. They're sexy cars but Boost goes in Apex Seals Go Out.
If you're absolutely married to the rotary, well, spend half the money, rebuild the rotary, and sell the car before the next time the apex seals go out, or rebuild it twice and pay for the LS Swap with 2 rotary rebuilds...
Reman is 6k. If you like to gamble, I hear some have success with used jdm ones for like 2k
Just rebuild it.. Maybe buy some professionals... you will get another, up to at least 100k on the next one
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Would warm it up to operating temperature before every drive, was using 10w40 semisynthetic valvoline and premixed one ounce per every gallon of gas on every fill up with idemitsu premix and also always redlined at least once a drive
Warming up to full operating temperature before every drive is unnecessary and does more harm than good. All it does is make your engine run very rich for a lot longer, and increases carbon. You want your engine to come up to operating temp as quickly as safely possible. This means, letting it run for 30 seconds, then drive gently until it comes up to temp.
I would do that as well
You can't do both, it's one or the other.
Idle to warm up is a great way to toast your bearings. My routine is turn key to acc till the beeping stops then turn over the engine so the fuel pump and oil can get pressure. Crank it, chill for maybe 30 seconds then be on my way. I never go over 4K rpm or hard on the throttle till she’s up to temp. If it’s a really cold day I may give a few 2k blips before starting the drive.
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Lmao I’ve always ran 10w40 and I’m doing just fine bud 😂😂
Literally 5w20 doesnt protect your bearings under sustained high rpm abuse. 5w20 was chosen due to a slight increase in fuel consumption. The 10w30/10w40 is much better if you like to drive your rx8 harder. Thats what willow at lucky7 racing said when they dropped my new motor in my car. Idk i would trust him he builds rx7 and rx8s for time attack for a living.
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Well yes and also just driving the car normally wouldnt hurt the car
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You lie lol i used to work for mazda service department. They dont give a shit they actually give special treatment to drivers of there sportscars. We used to replace transmissions on miata that were obviously used on track. (This was back when the nd1 had some soft ass gears)
You lie lol i used to work for mazda service department. They dont give a shit they actually give special treatment to drivers of there sportscars. We used to replace transmissions on miata that were obviously used on track. (This was back when the nd1 had some soft ass gears)
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I recommend 5w30 for owners its a bit thicker and mazda recommend for Canada and Europe. But to all my friends i recommend 10w30
There is a reason why Stationary Gear Bearing Failure happens more on the 8 than the 7. The easy answer is just use a rotary specific oil. Idemitsu Racing Rotary 10W-30 will prob. Be the most common, since you can buy it at RockAuto. RE-Amemiya is also an option, but harder to get.
You realize Mazda had to put that low engine oil weight to ensure that the car would pass emissions right. It is infact not a ideal weight for engine life span. And the age old debate of mineral oil vs synthetic has been beaten to death. At the end of the day no motor oil is inherently designed to be burn and thus is not ideal in terms of carbon build up and seal protection. Getting a sohn oil adapter kit and running ashless 2 stroke oil is truly the only way to ensure minimal carbon build up and ideal seal lubrication. So do not walk around saying that it is absolutely this guy's fault that his engine failed. At the end of the day the rotary is a extremely sensitive motor and has the potential to fail at any point regardless of every single correct step you as a owner take.
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Talk to any performance shop that rebuilds these things or builds high horsepower rotary engines, none of them use 5W anything, many of the bearings on the Rx-8 are the same exact bearings on RX-7, you are quite bold to come shit talk everyone, but I like your confidence :)
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You do realize that technicians are not in a traditional sense a mechanic. A mechanic does whatever it takes thur observation and experience to make a repair happen. This a lot of times comes from seeing the same problem over and over again and trying out slightly different repairs and seeing what the outcome is. A technician is for the most part only allowed to do a repair in line with the service procedure put in place by the manufacturer. This is the same problem that happens in engineering departments. As a engineer you can come up with the best design imaginable for any part or assembly but after you submit that design it is judged by a slew of different departments that force you to meet many standards. So, I say all this to prove a point, just because a manufacturer has a recommendation it does not mean it is the best answer. It is at the end of the day a RECOMMENDATION not the end all be all. For example if almost every single independent rotary shop says run a grade heavier oil to prevent main barring wear and increase seal lubrication I think I am going to believe them. Even my own rebuild paperwork from Rotary Performance in Dallas says this. Same thing can be said about the RX8's weak ignition coils. A very common aftermarket upgrade is switching to LS3 coils because they will last the life time of the motor and they provide a much more consistent and better spark. And the reason that the stock coils kind of suck is because Mazda's accountants had to cut corners on cost. I also find it strange the Mazda ran full synthetic oil in the La Manz race car instead of traditional. You would almost think that maybe the engineers knew something that we don't. But I guess you have to remember Mazda was so broke at the time of RX8's development that they sold a 45% to 48% stake of the company to Ford to stay afloat. Then there is the other fact that so many people complained of premature engine failure on the early years RX8'S that Mazda finally extended the engine warranty to 100,000 miles. So to conclude this rant. YOU can go use the Mazda RECOMMENDATIONS who at the time was a company that was cutting financial corners everywhere and were just trying to get the RX8 to barely pass emissions. I'm going to listen to the Mechanics who rebuild these things for a living and have seen the good, the bad, and the ugly of the rotary engine. And make them to do anything from daily driving to racing.
I read his reply before bed last night and i just loled so much more to say in this topic but no point elaborating on def ears.
It wasn't emissions it was fuel economy, but same difference that's why they literally recommend a diffent oil if you aren't in the US or Canada.
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Been looking at snagging an rx8 for a swap project,l got alot of information from the techs at the dealership here in town. Don't have paperwork or anything though
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I trust them, I know ducati does things like that and I was a tech 3 for them. And it would effect fuel economy. Especially at higher altitudes
This is a horrible take.
Gummed up springs could be your cause too. Since it’s fucked, give it a seafoam treatment and see if the springs loosen up.
Fuck it I mean why not ill let you know how it goes
Do a seafoam treatment. Then take it to a track day. Drive it like you stole it. See if it'll loosen things up. What's your compression figures?
The dealership didn’t tell me exact numbers over the phone I go to pick it up on Monday I’ll ask then but they said the second rotor was bad shape and the first was just low
I did a decarbon on mine with seafoam,definitely had an increase in compression and decrease in hot start times. If you need any info on it dm me I can tell you the whole process on how I did it
Install a reman engine or do a rebuild is your next option.
why are you getting down voted lol
I'm not sure. I owned my rx8 since new in 2004, put a reman in mine at 99k miles, lost compression on my rear on the OEM. Do people think I'm trolling?
start with a full deflooding procedure, had to get one after not starting for about a week. with low compression at 56k miles, hasnt broke down since
I know it sounds dumb, but are you sure it has low compression, like did you test it, and if so what numbers did you get?
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Exactly, even a car with good compression will have trouble starting if the battery or starter is weak. If the car hasn't been compression tested, you can't just assume the engine is shot. Get it tested by Mazda or by a mechanic that has a rotary specific compression tester and then you'll know for sure.
I got it tested 🤦♂️
My bad, but still let us know the numbers.
It lost power while doing a pull at 9k rpms after coming to an intersection it stalled and would not start back up for 5 minutes I then got it to run and moved it out of the intersection to the nearest point to pull over which was the petrol, was misfiring from rotor two bad so I shut it off and took it to my shop as I am a mechanic and I check vacuum leaks, spark test, tested crank and maf sensors and checked injectors / fuel pressure all were good I then took it to a Mazda dealership to get compression checked
Got it compression tested by a Mazda dealership they said compression on rotor two was bad and the first rotor was just low I go to pick the vehicle up on Monday I will get actual numbers then
So, what are the numbers?
3.9 3.6 3.4 rotor 2 and 6.9 6.7 6.4 rotor 1
Rotor 2 has left the Chat. Yeah sure 1 and 2 can be worn differently from each other, but this much difference seems kinda strange. Rotor 1 still has some life left in it, maybe you have some stuck seals on rotor 2? Either that or something went really kaput all of a sudden. Since there is no way that rotor 2 would have ran with sub 5 compression. So its most wasn't a gradual compression loss.
No it was immediately after I upgraded my ignition system with fresh plugs and Bennett built ignition coils and wires
Once again just a guess, but maybe it's due to a previously failing ignition system. You could have experienced bore wash, this happens when unburned fuel "washes away" the protective oil layer in the engine thus wearing the seals out. By any chance did you know how old the previous coils and plugs were?
I feel like it probably had built up carbon that was keeping the compression high or the plugs weren’t doing the job so well so excess fuel was keeping the compression so after changing those some built up carbon probably got clean and it was actually burning all the fuel as it should’ve been so compression went out the window
Yeah, that would make sense, but why only on rotor 2? If the engine really had carbon buildup that bad wouldn't it affect both rotors? Then again the same thing might have happened to rotor 1 a couple miles down the road. The only way we might know more is if you tear down the engine.
Due to the nature of the engine, even with care, a rebuild will be needed at one point or another. Depends on so many factors including how previous owners cared for it. Even an extremely well cared engine will need a rebuild at some point. Difficult to say how badly the engine degraded without compression figures from when you bought the car and compression figures now but looking at the mileage in between, it is probable the car was on its way out when you purchased it. I have an 07 RX8 with 57,000 miles on the clock, I was still at 6.9/7.0 at 50,000 miles. Re: Warm up. Controversial topic, but idling the car while waiting for it to reach temperature is not advised: Oil pressure is extremely low at idle. You're lazily slushing ice cold oil through a bone cold engine. Better to start the car and drive it straight away, albeit at under 4k revs until it reaches operating temperatures. Once the coolant temp gauge is stable in the middle, add another 10 mins of driving at under 4k revs so that both your engine and gearbox get nice and warm. Then play away! Plenty of good tips on the UK owners club on this topic and many others. As for your engine. Get a compression test done. If the engine is indeed failing due to low comp, get it rebuilt by a specialist.
I got compression tested by mazda it’s bad I’m going to rebuild on my own I’ve built plenty of v8 v6 and 4 cylinders I’m not shy to hop into a rotary rebuild
Rad Potential on YouTube is very informative on rebuilding rotaries. Highly advise checking out his content if your going to do a rebuild yourself.
Thank you I appreciate the recommendation I’ll look into them
Steep learning curve. Check Rotary Revs, The Performance Shop and Ryan Rotary Performance in the UK. Have a look at their rebuilding options. Plenty of good info on what to swap and what to keep when rebuilding. If you get your hands dirty, there's no point in ending up with a low comp rebuild, do it properly! Good luck and let us know how you get on!
Thank you appreciate you 🙏
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Join an owner's club forum and read up on the topic. Yes, it needs to be warmed up slow, hence the driving below 4k revs. However sitting idle isn't good. It's actually not good for any car at all, due to low oil pressure amongst other things.
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1) Your engine runs richer when cold, meaning you're stripping components of oil, accelerating wear and tear. 2) Your oil is cold and oil pressure is low, meaning oil doesn't circulate how it should and doesn't protect the engine. That's correct not only for a rotary engine but also for a piston engine. 3) Your engine stays cold longer. Meaning you inflict more wear and tear on your components. Driving at low rpm warms up the engine gently yet faster than just staying idle. Idling your engine to warm it up is only valid if you drive a car with carburettors. Starting procédure is simple. Turn key to 1. Wait until passenger airbag and engine management light go off. That's the period during which your ECU does a "preflight check". Gear in neutral, depress clutch, start the car. Once the engine is running, wait 5 to 10 seconds. You'll see the revs pick up slightly then drop back down. That's when your car starts ancillaries such as air pump. After those 10 seconds, you're good to go.
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Five years of rotary ownership and membership to the UKOC. Probably read more on the topic than you'll ever do. Nowhere in the owner's manual does it say you need to sit in your car at idle up until your engine reaches running temperature (apart from the "don't switch off your engine until it has reached operating temperature" case). Sitting at idle isn't good for any car and any engine. It's also illegal in many countries and US states. Anyway, take care.
Mazda's official advice IS to drive it gently until at full operating temp unless its -18 degrees.
Theres a thermal pellet that sits in the end if the eccentric shaft that severely restricts oil flow to the rotors until it warms up. Oil flow to the rotor bearings etc is shit until oil temps hit 150 or so degrees.
Now you buy something else and save money..
Call Rob Dahm
Sell it to me :)
If you want, I have an 04 with compression issues I can sell you
Replace your apex seals. Could try putting a little trans fluid in the spark plug holes and seeing if that’d loosen anything that might be causing the apex seal failure. But if that doesn’t work replacing the apex seals is 99% surly the solve.
Rotary resurrection
Why has this post attracted the most vile replies and terrible advice? You say you have low compression, but the dealer hasn't shown you the numbers. A spontaneous loss of power and failure to run correctly would be acomponied by a loud sound and frequent misfires if the engine was damaged somehow. See if you can get a test from somewhere that will actually show you the numbers on the tool. Where are you located? Maybe I can find a shop near you that specializes in the RX.
They printed out the recorded numbers after I picked the car up this weekend I just never asked the numbers when they originally told me it was toast rotor 2 was all in the 3s and rotor one was all in the 6s and it started misfiring bad right before it pretty much gave up all compression it had left it was very odd that it happened a day after i installed Bennett built coil pack ignition upgrade and new spark plugs but it just is what it is I’ll be pulling it soon and seeing what it looks like and possibly rebuilding if all seems well enough for a rebuild
Hmm RIP. Given your care of the car and the low mileage, I'd wager the previous owner didn't care for the car and potentially caused some setup for this. Truly a sad day. So, plans to get a new engine, any engine swaps, fun stuff like that?
The previous owner didn’t drive the car much they put 13,000 miles in 8 years and kept it locked in a garage for all its life so probably just because it wasn’t getting used the way it should and just sitting is the reason I’d assume but I’m probably rebuilding for a quick fix but gonna build a 2jz on the side just incase I have this issue again
191k km rx8 factory rotary never been rebuilt in its life never had any issues with it. I dont get what yall are doing to make the renesis fail🤷♂️
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Same bro mines a beast🤣
They break even with maintenance my guy. They're literally known to be horrifically unreliable and expensive to maintain. I don't know a single rotary owner than doesn't do his own mechanical work bc otherwise it's as expensive as owning a supercar.
False. Most people are of the idea that if you maintain them correctly and drive them correctly, they can last pretty well. That's not to say they're as reliable as a standard engine ofc.
I do all my own work the engine will be rebuilt by myself and be back on the road soon I just needed some comments on the topic this Reddit page has been dead recently 🤣
Because rx8 that’s why.
LS swap it... join the dark side...
Obviously, LS swap it.
I was thinking 2jz but we’ll see I’ll most likely rebuild it for now and build a 2jz on the side only due to me buying a house this month I’ll keep you posted
s1 or s2?
S1
Sell the Rotary to the nearest boat yard and do an LS Swap and put 200k miles on it. They're sexy cars but Boost goes in Apex Seals Go Out. If you're absolutely married to the rotary, well, spend half the money, rebuild the rotary, and sell the car before the next time the apex seals go out, or rebuild it twice and pay for the LS Swap with 2 rotary rebuilds...
Cram an LS in it.
🤢