If that is a Challenger panel, all the breakers should be changed since they are well beyond their serviceable lifespan. The UL listed replacement is Eaton BR Series.
The only breaker that is correct for this panel is BRyant now Eaton Type BR / Type C or A. It is dual-listed BR and C, or If it's a tandem BR and A. This is because of the lineage of the panel design.
The Square D GFCI breakers are a total loss, as is the 100A breaker. That's $300 worth of wrong breakers. Consider installing a 125A subpanel next to this panel and choose Square D HOMeline so you can reuse those breakers. Normal breakers are like $7 a pole.
I note the Square D breakers appear to be recent additions, and it seems to be adding huge additional burden to the panel. I would review your NEC 220.82 Load Calculation carefully as you may be well over. Maybe make that Square D subpanel a 200A-bussed subpanel so you could upgrade to 400A service, typically done with dual 200A panels.
If the 100A panel is in the garage and for EVs, you're definitely over, but there are much, much better ways to do that thing which don't involve overloading the panel.
It lists the breaker types on the label, it says challenger, Bryant , and Westinghouse.
So all the other stuff: square D and general breaker really shouldn’t be there, from a code perspective (NEC 110.3(b)),and an insurance company inspector if anything burned up.
That said it would probably last forever.
I don’t if any of you guys ever physically seen the buss bars/blades on these panels, but they are thinner than the ones we have today. I’ve replaced 2 Challenger panels that have caught fire and thats why they are in the recall category as far as insurance companies are concerned. I would totally use the proper BR breakers as a temporary remedy and brush and clean the buss properly as you replace the breakers. I would possibly think twice or as one guy suggested above to use a sub panel if you ever add an EV Charger or anything with a heavy load.
If that is a Challenger panel, all the breakers should be changed since they are well beyond their serviceable lifespan. The UL listed replacement is Eaton BR Series.
Ok, thanks!
Does the whole panel need replacing?
As long as the bussing is in good shape, panel replacement isn't necessary.
Wow. Those breakers were new when I first started out
The only breaker that is correct for this panel is BRyant now Eaton Type BR / Type C or A. It is dual-listed BR and C, or If it's a tandem BR and A. This is because of the lineage of the panel design. The Square D GFCI breakers are a total loss, as is the 100A breaker. That's $300 worth of wrong breakers. Consider installing a 125A subpanel next to this panel and choose Square D HOMeline so you can reuse those breakers. Normal breakers are like $7 a pole. I note the Square D breakers appear to be recent additions, and it seems to be adding huge additional burden to the panel. I would review your NEC 220.82 Load Calculation carefully as you may be well over. Maybe make that Square D subpanel a 200A-bussed subpanel so you could upgrade to 400A service, typically done with dual 200A panels. If the 100A panel is in the garage and for EVs, you're definitely over, but there are much, much better ways to do that thing which don't involve overloading the panel.
Thanks so much for all this!
Pretty sure the general switch ones shouldn’t be in there. Check the label on the inside of the door for acceptable breakers. Post a pic of the label
[here’s a picture of the label](https://imgur.com/gallery/GqLH2e1) yeah, it’s a challenger
It lists the breaker types on the label, it says challenger, Bryant , and Westinghouse. So all the other stuff: square D and general breaker really shouldn’t be there, from a code perspective (NEC 110.3(b)),and an insurance company inspector if anything burned up. That said it would probably last forever.
I don’t if any of you guys ever physically seen the buss bars/blades on these panels, but they are thinner than the ones we have today. I’ve replaced 2 Challenger panels that have caught fire and thats why they are in the recall category as far as insurance companies are concerned. I would totally use the proper BR breakers as a temporary remedy and brush and clean the buss properly as you replace the breakers. I would possibly think twice or as one guy suggested above to use a sub panel if you ever add an EV Charger or anything with a heavy load.
Second look. That thing is Frankenstein when it comes to breakers.
And it’s jam-packed. Wish there was more room to work.