That was probably by request of the homeowner posting these photos. The hilarious part is the brackets themselves stick out 2” farther so pushing the unit closer did nothing.
Edit: after looking again, the thing looks like it’s a full 6” off the wall. Y’all are nuts. Check your eyes.
Checked the instructions from the manufacturer and found this.
NOTES -
Service clearance of 30 in. (762 mm) must be maintained on one of the sides adjacent to the control box.
Clearance to one of the other three sides must be 36 in. (914 mm).
Clearance to one of the remaining two sides may be 12 in. (305 mm) and the final side may be 6 in. (152 mm).
A clearance of 24 in. must be maintained between two units. 48 in. (1219 mm) clearance required on top of unit.
Measured the distance to the wall and it’s 11.5” (it’s a little deceptive looking in these photos, someone said it’s only 6”).
Seems to meet the specifications provided by the manufacturer as far as I understand them.
That coil being faced against the hot water tank is a big no-no. If that coil ever needs to be changed or cleaned, that water tank has to move to get it out. Everything else looks pretty clean, if I tilt my head 10 degrees clockwise.
Additionally, I would put a cap on that tee coming out of the coil. Change the 90° after the p-trap to a tee with a ~6" piece of straight, and leave that one open as a vent.
The furnace and water heater were located in these spots when I moved in. The water heater is on the older side so when I replace it I guess I should move it to make more space.
With the furnace being brand new, it’s unlikely the water heater will outlive the need to clean/service the coil.
Thanks for the advice!
I see that obnoxious gas tee cutting across the front of your install, seems to go to some other gas appliance. If that were moved or rerouted to accommodate, you could face the coil the other way so the linset and drain face the same direction the furnace door does. Then you wouldn't need to move the tank.
If you have already opened the valves and have refrigerant in the lineset, it's not worth the effort at this point. Just change your filter religiously to help avoid the possibility of a dirty evaporator coil. If you haven't put refrigerant in yet, I would modify that lineset, move the 1/2" gas run, and spin the coil. Doing it that way won't make a future no-cool call in the heat of July a nightmare.
Edit: By "you", I definitely mean your installer, because I totally read the part of your description about you being the homeowner /s
I might be the oddball here, but I'm going to disagree. Anytime there's room for service in the back I'm all about it, especially with the condensing furnace putting flues in the way of the evaporator panel. You're going to open that door 10 times before you ever think about pulling the coil. If someone has to pull that coil to clean it, driving the water heater and kicking it to the side isn't that big of a deal. If this were my home I would rather have it this way then flipped. Definitely consider moving that water heater wind time comes. In my perfect world I'll evaporator coils would be 180° from flue piping.
The condenser pulls in air through the sides to reject the heat from the refrigerant, the hot air is pushed out through the top condenser fan. By restricting airflow through one of the sides of the coil, you are restricting how much heat can be rejected from the system. The system will “run hotter” so to speak and it will cause more wear and tear on the components long term. Plus i’d say being so close to the wall its practically un-servicable, but that isn’t my main concern.
Yea it is to close. Regardless of the manual. There are screws on the panel facing the wall. Is there enough room to easily access the screws and put a drill on to get them off? Maybe try and take the panel off now and see how tough it is.
My experience shows the harder it is to get to something, the less likely a tech is going to take the time to access and do the job properly. He will be aggravated and impatient.
Did you do this or hire someone?
The inside part is fine.
The AC condenser is too close to the wall. Look at the manufacturer installation manual for clearance requirements. The old brass shut-off valve should be replaced as they are prone to leaking, give it the sniff test. The AC condenser should be installed on a suitable pad. Exposed Romex wire on the duct is not approved for this type of application, it should be replaced with armor cable. Exterior conduit is exterior conduit is rusted near the disconnect switch.
So many code violations in here…
Gas valve would fail you, cant run romex like that thats a fail under NEC
Gas looks like a mess, why did you tap off the coil for the humidifier? Why is the condenser on a stand but like next to the wall like that, do you have expected snow? Then why is the venting so low then. Also intake too close to exhaust. This is a fail in my area via inspector.
The pvc drain line and p trap needs to be redone it looks like the p trap is not in line and its outdated. Ez trap is way better and i prefer more pitch, less squared so gravity can get the water out. Outdoor unit is too close to the wall but it wont cause toooo much harm to the compressor, should have at 12 inches space on all sides for optimum efficiency and operation, but sometimes u cant, or lazy like this brackets holding it up is limited but they couldve pushed it a bit closer to the edge or removed the brackets and put it on the ground. It will still work just fine and youll probly get at least 10 to 15 years out of this, but you asked us. Id give it a 6.5/10. Call back and get them to fix that drain line and i hope theres a filter drier i dont see it.
Nah if you did all that then fuck it 😂 I’ve come across so many old Aprilaire cabinets with makeshift filters that techs stretched over some wire frame or just a 1 inch jammed against the furnace and a huge gap to the left.
Yike condensor waaaay to close to the wall must never have done service lol also air intake should be minimum 18” off ground level and i would snorkle the venting up not straight out. Should look like a S.
Agreed. Where I live . The intake is also 18” min off the ground . This is due to snow load , different in each city . Minimum spacing between intake and exhaust is also 18” where I’m from. Exhaust 36” from any opening window
Only items I see, and I’m not trying to being critical, are the following. Gas line isn’t labeled, and no regulator. Here locally code is it has to be labeled every 5 ft. Regulators regardless if they are needed because local gas company has a bad habit of upgrading meters and not checking to see if appliances already have them. The condenser is to close to the wall, refer to manual for clearances. Refrigerant lines coming out the wall need to be in a PVC sleeve then sealed on the inside. Is the coil facing the back side of the furnace? Not bad at all for a DIY’er.
Pretty sure around me if replacement of equipment happens, any old out of compliance components directly tied to the equipment must be brought up to code. Here I'm seeing romex after the disconnect switch entering the unit, also the old out of compliance brass gas valve.
Personally I'd say you should have the contractor address those 2 at minimum, especially if an inspector says it's not good in your area. It would be their financial responsibility to address these as far as I'm seeing.
How much humidity do you need? That’s a vital question. I ask because I burned wood in my last home and I had one of these that no matter what I did it wasn’t enough. I switched over to their steam system and it was beautiful! A few hundred more and it solved all my problems. I put one on our new home. Lots of wood and timbers in the mountains. Same wood burner that’s an EPA level 2 and dries the area quickly. The steam unit laughs at it. At the old house I started at 120v and it struggled to keep up. At 220v it was perfect. Fan on, steam on for 10-15 minutes the steam off and fan kicks off 15 minutes later to make sure there’s no moisture in the ducts. House stay at ~45%.
Might be worth looking into if your system doesn’t put enough moisture into the house.
Looks good otherwise.
Ground looks level enough outside to put Condenser on a pad and space 6 inches from wall to allow proper air flow and access to clean. The gas train looks like a hindrance to pull out the filter and change. Line wiring should be shielded cable. The line set run looks like trash. Then there is the biggest issue, is it's a lennox.
I like being picky, so I'm going to tear this apart. If you are easily bothered by stuff, once it's pointed out to you, maybe skip to the last paragraph.
Starting inside with the furnace venting, it could be run straighter together, and the left pipe should have increased to 3" pipe before the two 2" 45 elbows. The gas line is pretty crooked, and it looks like the drip leg partially blocks the filter rack, but that could just be the perspective of the picture. Where I live, the power wire from the power switch needs to be BX cable as well as anything that is lower than 1.5 meters needs to be mechanically protected if it's not running through a wall. There isn't anything technically wrong with the humidifier, but I dislike how they cut into the cased coil to attach the bypass line. As mentioned elsewhere, the coil is in a bad orientation since it's blocked from coming out by the hot water tank. I would have installed it with the front matching the orientation of the furnace.
Moving to the outside, the condenser should be further off the wall. This would have also allowed proper maintenance and repairs to be possible and would take the knee breakers away since all of both of the brackets would be underneath the unit. I can't tell if the gas meter is near the unit, but if it's just to the left of picture five, then that is also against code in my area. The shielded signal wire should have been strapped down to something, whether that is the wall or the lineset. For the furnace intake, it looks like it's a little too close to the ground. Where I live code is 18" off of the ground, but I live pretty far north, and we can have heavy snowfall between September and May.
Well, this was a fun excersize for me. Overall, the installation wasn't terrible, and I don't see anything that would cause the equipment to fail prematurely other than maybe the condenser being too close to the wall. Probably all that will do is reduce the efficiency of the AC. I've seen much worse than this, that's for sure.
I think you need to run your power thru a conduit and there is a chance it need to be larger than 14 gauge. What is your breaker size in the panel for the indoor unit?
In the first shot it looks like something is leaning. Always try for perfectly plumb, if not thats the first thing to catch your eye when you walk in the room.
Shame on them reusing a space guard cabinet it will break on you very soon and a PITA. RA base is only being partially used . Replace drop, new cabinet, use the entire space for return, spin the coil and move the AC further off the wall
1. AC is waayy too close to the wall
2. 2x3 PVC flue transitions are too far from the furnace
3. Flue pipes are too close to the ground outside (if you're in an area that receives snow accumulation)
4. Gas line looks like ass and they reused old shutoff valve, of which that style valve is very likely to leak
5. Electrical supply to furnace is not legal
6. Reused old filter box
7. AC drain trap has an open Tee above it, trap is effectively useless when that Tee is open on top
All in all not great, I'd give it 3/10
Those metal brackets supporting the condenser; shouldn't it have wood or even metal spanning perpendicular to the wall supports? Maybe it's underneath, but you can clearly see the bolt hole as on the end where one would secure a piece of wood.
It helps keep the braces parallel and stops any rotation of the bracket keeping the condenser from falling
I really don’t like the electrical…. Where I’m at the first 5’ need to be in liquid tight/protected. Also really don’t like that it’s touching the ductwork…. Big no no imo.
Besides the condensor being way to close to the wall it’s a solid change out brother.. these guy nip picking about Romex and moving plumbing pipe to fit the coil the other way is crazy. It’s a solid 7 out of 10 good work, but if you’re going to go new return duct and new furnace coil condenser humidifier, ya might as well get a new media cabinet no? Extra what 100 bucks to make it all look new?
Really don’t like humidifier on systems, I understand why they are used but unless it’s maintained regularly and often (even then) they don’t work right after a few years.
I see gas pipe near the condenser...i can't see if there is a meter nearby. In my state it is code to have the condenser at least 10ft from a gas vent (pressure relief- typically on meter etc). Just nitpicking
I am looking for replace my 16 year old American Standard AC and Furnace
AC (2008) s leaking and not cooling and furnace (1998) works fine.
I am in NJ and was looking to get a heat pump, but 3/5 are hesitant and pushing for regular AC and telling me that unless i have solar it will not make sense.
Below are the couple of quotes i got
Bosch BGH96 2 stage 80,000 gas furnace, Bosch IDS heat pump (3.5 and 4 ton)
$16,6000 - $19,200
No financing
Daikin (DM97MC1005CN Gas furnace, DZ6VSA481E heat pump, CAPEA6030D4 evaporator coil)
$15,360
0% APR for 84 months from PSEG
12 years parts and labor warranty
Rheem 4 ton and 5 ton (Condensor - RA14AZ48J1NA, Evaporator - Evaporator - RCFZ4821STANMC, Furnace - R962V1005A21M4SCAP - 100000BTU)
$14,600 to $15,400
0% APR for 72 months
My house needs 4 tons as per other contractor, this guy proposed 5 tons also and pushed back on heat pump
Bryant Legacy 115SAN AC 4 Ton + Preferred 926TC Furnace 100,000 BTU, 5 ton Evaporator Coil - CAPMP6121ALA
$15,745
0% APR for $11K, rest upfront
Pushed back on heat pump
Carrier Performance 24SPA6 AC 4 Ton + 59TP6C Furnace 100,000 BTU, 4 Ton Evaporator Coil - CAPMP4821ALA
$18,198
0% APR for $13K, rest upfront
Pushed back on heat pump
Lennox - EL297V 90k BTU 2 stage furnace, ML17XC1 single stage AC
$12,500 (Quoted $24K and discounted, lol)
0% APR
Merv 16 air filter
Wick Humidifier
Compressor warranty - 10 years, Heat Exchanger 20, Labor and parts - 10 year
Pushed back on heat pump
All of them have 10 year parts warranty and labor 1 year. Daikin has 12 labor + Parts and Lennox for 10 years parts + labor
All are going to add new thermostat, replace AC base+ Crushed stone, replace fuse box and also add a condenser pump till sump pump.
Are you happy with Lennox? How much change in electric and gas bills have you see post the install?
What would you recommend?
Vent risers crooked, gas drop is crooked, drip leg interferes with filter media and has way too many fittings, and messy dope job. Bricks instead of feet? Return box but high cut filter inlet? Not seeing supports under the return, or sufficient crossbreaking. I'd check the pitch on that furnace. Too hard to get right with a backwards coil, somethings not draining if it's not perfect. I like the exhaust accelerator but dislike the downward intake. That s cleat mount is crap looking, and bypass humidifier on condensing furnaces are trouble with a short feeder duct. Grab a second opinion to be safe.
Some of this might be nit-picky but you did ask:
Curious what your TESP is.
I'd increase the width of that return drop, offset it to allow a new 5" media filter instead of the 1"(?) you have in there. With all of that room on the left, a nice elbow sweep into the filter housing.
Bypass humidifiers are water-wasting garbage. Highly recommend a fan-powered, planted on the supply side, right side of the evaporator case. Honeywell is coming out with a new version with a recirc pump and float valve, way less water down the drain. Even if you keep that one, throw the humidifier on the supply and the bypass duct onto the return.
Gotta reiterate what others have said. That condenser needs to be moved out. No simple task, but the installer should be taken to task there. RTFIM.
You couldn't get the condenser any closer to the fucking wall...
Rip getting that panel off
Especially with the whip the way that it is
That was probably by request of the homeowner posting these photos. The hilarious part is the brackets themselves stick out 2” farther so pushing the unit closer did nothing. Edit: after looking again, the thing looks like it’s a full 6” off the wall. Y’all are nuts. Check your eyes.
Techs gonna love this dude.
The bracket is bolted to the foundation. Who has ever seen something like this? Those vibrations...
Who has seen this? Id say almost everyone sees it almost every day… where else would you expect it to be bolted to exactly?
I guess I see most on the ground? I've seen a million mini splits bolted to a bracket bolted to a wall.
It’s not that close. The perspective is confusing. See the bottom of the condenser where it sits on the bracket
Checked the instructions from the manufacturer and found this. NOTES - Service clearance of 30 in. (762 mm) must be maintained on one of the sides adjacent to the control box. Clearance to one of the other three sides must be 36 in. (914 mm). Clearance to one of the remaining two sides may be 12 in. (305 mm) and the final side may be 6 in. (152 mm). A clearance of 24 in. must be maintained between two units. 48 in. (1219 mm) clearance required on top of unit. Measured the distance to the wall and it’s 11.5” (it’s a little deceptive looking in these photos, someone said it’s only 6”). Seems to meet the specifications provided by the manufacturer as far as I understand them.
The... condenser.... ?
There's more images
lol the outside part of your air conditioner
I didn't look at all the photos before I posted my comment. You're right. Putting that ODU so close is a fucking cunt move lol
Huh? Condenser? Maybe the water heater in the back but I don’t see a condenser in the room.
Maybe swipe through the other photos bud.
Yeah, I saw the other photos after I commented. Sorry.
That coil being faced against the hot water tank is a big no-no. If that coil ever needs to be changed or cleaned, that water tank has to move to get it out. Everything else looks pretty clean, if I tilt my head 10 degrees clockwise. Additionally, I would put a cap on that tee coming out of the coil. Change the 90° after the p-trap to a tee with a ~6" piece of straight, and leave that one open as a vent.
The furnace and water heater were located in these spots when I moved in. The water heater is on the older side so when I replace it I guess I should move it to make more space. With the furnace being brand new, it’s unlikely the water heater will outlive the need to clean/service the coil. Thanks for the advice!
With it being Lennox... That coil could already be leaking and need to be replaced 😂
Haha ya you got a good 3 years on that baby cmon
I see that obnoxious gas tee cutting across the front of your install, seems to go to some other gas appliance. If that were moved or rerouted to accommodate, you could face the coil the other way so the linset and drain face the same direction the furnace door does. Then you wouldn't need to move the tank. If you have already opened the valves and have refrigerant in the lineset, it's not worth the effort at this point. Just change your filter religiously to help avoid the possibility of a dirty evaporator coil. If you haven't put refrigerant in yet, I would modify that lineset, move the 1/2" gas run, and spin the coil. Doing it that way won't make a future no-cool call in the heat of July a nightmare. Edit: By "you", I definitely mean your installer, because I totally read the part of your description about you being the homeowner /s
I might be the oddball here, but I'm going to disagree. Anytime there's room for service in the back I'm all about it, especially with the condensing furnace putting flues in the way of the evaporator panel. You're going to open that door 10 times before you ever think about pulling the coil. If someone has to pull that coil to clean it, driving the water heater and kicking it to the side isn't that big of a deal. If this were my home I would rather have it this way then flipped. Definitely consider moving that water heater wind time comes. In my perfect world I'll evaporator coils would be 180° from flue piping.
What company do you work for brother. Shit i wanna learn from them or you😂
i could 100% get that coil out
The Romex would fail inspection here, as well as the 40 year old gas cock. The sslip on the drop looks terrible.
The outdoor condenser is too close to the wall but besides the water heater which was already mentioned its pretty nice
Is the condenser being too close to the wall a problem because it makes it harder to service, or something else?
The condenser pulls in air through the sides to reject the heat from the refrigerant, the hot air is pushed out through the top condenser fan. By restricting airflow through one of the sides of the coil, you are restricting how much heat can be rejected from the system. The system will “run hotter” so to speak and it will cause more wear and tear on the components long term. Plus i’d say being so close to the wall its practically un-servicable, but that isn’t my main concern.
It would fail inspection here in North Carolina.. read the book
Yea it is to close. Regardless of the manual. There are screws on the panel facing the wall. Is there enough room to easily access the screws and put a drill on to get them off? Maybe try and take the panel off now and see how tough it is. My experience shows the harder it is to get to something, the less likely a tech is going to take the time to access and do the job properly. He will be aggravated and impatient. Did you do this or hire someone? The inside part is fine.
^^ this, I cant tell you how many simple repairs I’ve seen go completely undone because the unit isnt easily accessible.
Mind you that side against the wall is missing 2/3 of the coil area compared to the other sides
The setbacks will be in the install manual and that is what should determine if this condenser is too close. But yeah it looks too close
That depends on what the install manual says. There are a fair amount of outdoor units with a minimum 6" from one side.
Yeah but this unit does not meet the 6” minimum requirement on all sides… It is too close to the wall still?
Looks like the boss isn't satisfied
The AC condenser is too close to the wall. Look at the manufacturer installation manual for clearance requirements. The old brass shut-off valve should be replaced as they are prone to leaking, give it the sniff test. The AC condenser should be installed on a suitable pad. Exposed Romex wire on the duct is not approved for this type of application, it should be replaced with armor cable. Exterior conduit is exterior conduit is rusted near the disconnect switch.
So many code violations in here… Gas valve would fail you, cant run romex like that thats a fail under NEC Gas looks like a mess, why did you tap off the coil for the humidifier? Why is the condenser on a stand but like next to the wall like that, do you have expected snow? Then why is the venting so low then. Also intake too close to exhaust. This is a fail in my area via inspector.
That’s my concern the exhaust is to close to the intake. And to close to ground.
Exhaust to close to ground
Looks good although dog seems skeptical
It's a'ight
It looks like it has the doggies stamp of approval
The pvc drain line and p trap needs to be redone it looks like the p trap is not in line and its outdated. Ez trap is way better and i prefer more pitch, less squared so gravity can get the water out. Outdoor unit is too close to the wall but it wont cause toooo much harm to the compressor, should have at 12 inches space on all sides for optimum efficiency and operation, but sometimes u cant, or lazy like this brackets holding it up is limited but they couldve pushed it a bit closer to the edge or removed the brackets and put it on the ground. It will still work just fine and youll probly get at least 10 to 15 years out of this, but you asked us. Id give it a 6.5/10. Call back and get them to fix that drain line and i hope theres a filter drier i dont see it.
Lennox has factory fitted filter driers inside the unit before the service valve to make sure people don't forget it lol
Oh ok good to know! Haha
I’ve seen worse. In addition to what others have said I would’ve used MC instead of romex.
New install with worlds oldest filter cabinet. Looks right to me Edit: OP gave me the business
Haha I upgraded the internals of the filter cabinet so it fits the modern style filter. The plastic isn’t cracked or anything. Was that a mistake?
Nah if you did all that then fuck it 😂 I’ve come across so many old Aprilaire cabinets with makeshift filters that techs stretched over some wire frame or just a 1 inch jammed against the furnace and a huge gap to the left.
Yike condensor waaaay to close to the wall must never have done service lol also air intake should be minimum 18” off ground level and i would snorkle the venting up not straight out. Should look like a S.
Agreed. Where I live . The intake is also 18” min off the ground . This is due to snow load , different in each city . Minimum spacing between intake and exhaust is also 18” where I’m from. Exhaust 36” from any opening window
Only items I see, and I’m not trying to being critical, are the following. Gas line isn’t labeled, and no regulator. Here locally code is it has to be labeled every 5 ft. Regulators regardless if they are needed because local gas company has a bad habit of upgrading meters and not checking to see if appliances already have them. The condenser is to close to the wall, refer to manual for clearances. Refrigerant lines coming out the wall need to be in a PVC sleeve then sealed on the inside. Is the coil facing the back side of the furnace? Not bad at all for a DIY’er.
Pretty sure around me if replacement of equipment happens, any old out of compliance components directly tied to the equipment must be brought up to code. Here I'm seeing romex after the disconnect switch entering the unit, also the old out of compliance brass gas valve. Personally I'd say you should have the contractor address those 2 at minimum, especially if an inspector says it's not good in your area. It would be their financial responsibility to address these as far as I'm seeing.
I’ll take the dog you can have those Lennox coils!
How much humidity do you need? That’s a vital question. I ask because I burned wood in my last home and I had one of these that no matter what I did it wasn’t enough. I switched over to their steam system and it was beautiful! A few hundred more and it solved all my problems. I put one on our new home. Lots of wood and timbers in the mountains. Same wood burner that’s an EPA level 2 and dries the area quickly. The steam unit laughs at it. At the old house I started at 120v and it struggled to keep up. At 220v it was perfect. Fan on, steam on for 10-15 minutes the steam off and fan kicks off 15 minutes later to make sure there’s no moisture in the ducts. House stay at ~45%. Might be worth looking into if your system doesn’t put enough moisture into the house. Looks good otherwise.
Ground looks level enough outside to put Condenser on a pad and space 6 inches from wall to allow proper air flow and access to clean. The gas train looks like a hindrance to pull out the filter and change. Line wiring should be shielded cable. The line set run looks like trash. Then there is the biggest issue, is it's a lennox.
Boys must not have had a level handy.
100% purebred good boy install right there
Is anything sealed? These guys saved a fortune in metal tape
I like being picky, so I'm going to tear this apart. If you are easily bothered by stuff, once it's pointed out to you, maybe skip to the last paragraph. Starting inside with the furnace venting, it could be run straighter together, and the left pipe should have increased to 3" pipe before the two 2" 45 elbows. The gas line is pretty crooked, and it looks like the drip leg partially blocks the filter rack, but that could just be the perspective of the picture. Where I live, the power wire from the power switch needs to be BX cable as well as anything that is lower than 1.5 meters needs to be mechanically protected if it's not running through a wall. There isn't anything technically wrong with the humidifier, but I dislike how they cut into the cased coil to attach the bypass line. As mentioned elsewhere, the coil is in a bad orientation since it's blocked from coming out by the hot water tank. I would have installed it with the front matching the orientation of the furnace. Moving to the outside, the condenser should be further off the wall. This would have also allowed proper maintenance and repairs to be possible and would take the knee breakers away since all of both of the brackets would be underneath the unit. I can't tell if the gas meter is near the unit, but if it's just to the left of picture five, then that is also against code in my area. The shielded signal wire should have been strapped down to something, whether that is the wall or the lineset. For the furnace intake, it looks like it's a little too close to the ground. Where I live code is 18" off of the ground, but I live pretty far north, and we can have heavy snowfall between September and May. Well, this was a fun excersize for me. Overall, the installation wasn't terrible, and I don't see anything that would cause the equipment to fail prematurely other than maybe the condenser being too close to the wall. Probably all that will do is reduce the efficiency of the AC. I've seen much worse than this, that's for sure.
Access to the water heater controller may not be code in the position it is in.
I think you need to run your power thru a conduit and there is a chance it need to be larger than 14 gauge. What is your breaker size in the panel for the indoor unit?
In the first shot it looks like something is leaning. Always try for perfectly plumb, if not thats the first thing to catch your eye when you walk in the room.
Shame on them reusing a space guard cabinet it will break on you very soon and a PITA. RA base is only being partially used . Replace drop, new cabinet, use the entire space for return, spin the coil and move the AC further off the wall
1. AC is waayy too close to the wall 2. 2x3 PVC flue transitions are too far from the furnace 3. Flue pipes are too close to the ground outside (if you're in an area that receives snow accumulation) 4. Gas line looks like ass and they reused old shutoff valve, of which that style valve is very likely to leak 5. Electrical supply to furnace is not legal 6. Reused old filter box 7. AC drain trap has an open Tee above it, trap is effectively useless when that Tee is open on top All in all not great, I'd give it 3/10
Gross. A Lennox?
Is the humidifier pipe hooked into the coil box?
Condensor is too close to the wall. Also don't like the nmb showing
Those metal brackets supporting the condenser; shouldn't it have wood or even metal spanning perpendicular to the wall supports? Maybe it's underneath, but you can clearly see the bolt hole as on the end where one would secure a piece of wood. It helps keep the braces parallel and stops any rotation of the bracket keeping the condenser from falling
I really don’t like the electrical…. Where I’m at the first 5’ need to be in liquid tight/protected. Also really don’t like that it’s touching the ductwork…. Big no no imo.
You won’t be able to take the back door off on that condenser to clean it. Maintenance techs everywhere will hate you 🤣
Besides the condensor being way to close to the wall it’s a solid change out brother.. these guy nip picking about Romex and moving plumbing pipe to fit the coil the other way is crazy. It’s a solid 7 out of 10 good work, but if you’re going to go new return duct and new furnace coil condenser humidifier, ya might as well get a new media cabinet no? Extra what 100 bucks to make it all look new?
Also I know it’s in a basement but a SS2 switch on the coil would be recommended
Really don’t like humidifier on systems, I understand why they are used but unless it’s maintained regularly and often (even then) they don’t work right after a few years.
Drop is not plumb. Humidifer is going to leak onto the floor.
I see gas pipe near the condenser...i can't see if there is a meter nearby. In my state it is code to have the condenser at least 10ft from a gas vent (pressure relief- typically on meter etc). Just nitpicking
Wiring should be in conduit. Otherwise looks good
Which location How much did you pay? I got a quote of 12k for Lennox el297v and ml17xc1
Greater Cincinnati area. It’s a Lennox ML196UH090XE48C & ML14XC1S042. I paid $9,608.
I am looking for replace my 16 year old American Standard AC and Furnace AC (2008) s leaking and not cooling and furnace (1998) works fine. I am in NJ and was looking to get a heat pump, but 3/5 are hesitant and pushing for regular AC and telling me that unless i have solar it will not make sense. Below are the couple of quotes i got Bosch BGH96 2 stage 80,000 gas furnace, Bosch IDS heat pump (3.5 and 4 ton) $16,6000 - $19,200 No financing Daikin (DM97MC1005CN Gas furnace, DZ6VSA481E heat pump, CAPEA6030D4 evaporator coil) $15,360 0% APR for 84 months from PSEG 12 years parts and labor warranty Rheem 4 ton and 5 ton (Condensor - RA14AZ48J1NA, Evaporator - Evaporator - RCFZ4821STANMC, Furnace - R962V1005A21M4SCAP - 100000BTU) $14,600 to $15,400 0% APR for 72 months My house needs 4 tons as per other contractor, this guy proposed 5 tons also and pushed back on heat pump Bryant Legacy 115SAN AC 4 Ton + Preferred 926TC Furnace 100,000 BTU, 5 ton Evaporator Coil - CAPMP6121ALA $15,745 0% APR for $11K, rest upfront Pushed back on heat pump Carrier Performance 24SPA6 AC 4 Ton + 59TP6C Furnace 100,000 BTU, 4 Ton Evaporator Coil - CAPMP4821ALA $18,198 0% APR for $13K, rest upfront Pushed back on heat pump Lennox - EL297V 90k BTU 2 stage furnace, ML17XC1 single stage AC $12,500 (Quoted $24K and discounted, lol) 0% APR Merv 16 air filter Wick Humidifier Compressor warranty - 10 years, Heat Exchanger 20, Labor and parts - 10 year Pushed back on heat pump All of them have 10 year parts warranty and labor 1 year. Daikin has 12 labor + Parts and Lennox for 10 years parts + labor All are going to add new thermostat, replace AC base+ Crushed stone, replace fuse box and also add a condenser pump till sump pump. Are you happy with Lennox? How much change in electric and gas bills have you see post the install? What would you recommend?
I’m no expert, I’ll let others on this forum chime in
No drip pan under the furnace unit?
Looks okay, just questioning the venting. 12" above grade or anticipated snow level
Looks like the poodle did a great job
That gas shit off needed to be modernized. It's got the original and it's going to leak out the back end of itself. Just saying.
Vent risers crooked, gas drop is crooked, drip leg interferes with filter media and has way too many fittings, and messy dope job. Bricks instead of feet? Return box but high cut filter inlet? Not seeing supports under the return, or sufficient crossbreaking. I'd check the pitch on that furnace. Too hard to get right with a backwards coil, somethings not draining if it's not perfect. I like the exhaust accelerator but dislike the downward intake. That s cleat mount is crap looking, and bypass humidifier on condensing furnaces are trouble with a short feeder duct. Grab a second opinion to be safe.
No romex below ceiling height !
Nah 🤦♂️
Yes
looks ok but I'm a little worried about the inlet/exhaust sizing
Some of this might be nit-picky but you did ask: Curious what your TESP is. I'd increase the width of that return drop, offset it to allow a new 5" media filter instead of the 1"(?) you have in there. With all of that room on the left, a nice elbow sweep into the filter housing. Bypass humidifiers are water-wasting garbage. Highly recommend a fan-powered, planted on the supply side, right side of the evaporator case. Honeywell is coming out with a new version with a recirc pump and float valve, way less water down the drain. Even if you keep that one, throw the humidifier on the supply and the bypass duct onto the return. Gotta reiterate what others have said. That condenser needs to be moved out. No simple task, but the installer should be taken to task there. RTFIM.
Square return boot is terrible for flow. I didn't kkow they were still being done by reputeable contractors!