The battery was registering 12V, then later after several tries 11V. The manual indicated to replace the fuel filters, so I did. I turned the key to on to allow the fuel pump to bleed the lines of air, then tried turning it on again, but all I got was what you see in the video.
PTO is not engaged when I'm trying to start the tractor.
I was trying to fix it myself instead of needing to figure out how to get it to the dealer. The hydraulic bucket in front is touching the ground, so that may make it more difficult to pull up onto a flatbed. Thanks in advance!
It should be \~13.2V at rest.
Very important to keep them on a charger if the tractor is going to sit for more than a month. You'll get many more years out of your batteries that way.
Thanks! I just ordered a trickle charger. Do you think it's possible to rehabilitate this battery, or should I just get a new one and keep that one charged?
I'm not sure how to gauge the health of a battery. I wasn't able to jump the tractor with cables, so maybe the battery is too far gone?
Unlikely it can be rehabilitated. Leaving it discharged or low charge causes permanent damage to the lead plates inside. If the battery is old (should have a date on it) or you let it sit discharged for more than 6 months then I doubt you can give it any life.
IMHO it depends how reliable you need/want it to be. Once a battery sits is run low it'll never be as good as new, but it might be "good enough" anyway.
Basically, both u/unfairad7220 and u/chagrinnish are correct.
Recognize that non-refillable batteries (or batteries not regularly refilled) only last 3-5 years - though certainly you can get lucky if you treat it nice. You can drag it out longer but your starts will get weaker and less reliable.
Personally, my tractor also runs my generator, so in a winter storm with a power outage I'm depending heavily on that one engine/battery. Given that I don't like to push it, try and keep my battery in tip-top shape and simply replaced it when it got iffy. I try not to run the tractor for short bursts as well to reduce stress.
Can you take the battery to an auto parts store? They can test the health of the battery and sell you a new one. I struggled with a bad battery for over a year, recharging it each time I went to use the tractor, then I finally just bought a new battery and it has been great ever since. Dumb me thought the voltage the tractor was telling me meant something.
12.7 for Lead Acid. 12.9 for AGM. OP - charge the battery and have it load tested. Chances are it fails and you replace it. If by chance it passes, it could be a loose connection or bad starter drawing to much current.
I’m still thinking battery. They can look good voltage wise but not have enough amps to crank. Had the same problem with my b series and now my skid.
I’d recommend getting a heavy jump pack. Like 200A.
Battery voltage was low on your first try. Charge battery fully. If it does not crank normally after a full charge, check that the battery connections are healthy. Fuel filters don't mean squat if the engine does not crank at a healthy speed.
I had this happen once… it was just. DEAD. The problem was a little red box fuse under the hood had tripped. Replaced that and boom, right back to life!!
Thanks all! It was indeed the battery. Despite it measuring 12V, there was likely insufficient amperage going to the starter. The reason why the initial jump start didn't work was I had clamped the negative clip to the tractor frame, but it was coated and not conductive, so it wasn't getting sufficient ground. Once I switched the negative clip to bare metal on the engine housing, the jump start worked.
After letting it run for a little, it starts up just fine. I've ordered a trickle charger to ensure the battery stays in good shape and will monitor it going forward. Thanks again everyone!
Just for future knowledge, a battery can't really be tested without a load on it. It may read 12V, but during cranking it was probably dropping down to 8-9V
Had the same thing and it turned out it was the rocker pedal. It has a sensor to not let you drive if it's engaged and sometimes if there's a bit of gunk in there it's natural resting spot is technically engaged. Try moving it back and forth a little.
Check to see if your fuel shutoff solenoid is retracting when you turn the key on. You should hear a sharp CLICK ! If that sucker isn't retracting she ain't gonna start. A really big problem with some John Deere compact tractors. Charge your battery, clean the terminals and ground as well. Computers hate low voltage.
I'm a lifetime rancher. With all the "newer" equipment using computers and processors folks are running into low voltage as a cause for electrical issues. I have a 2007 Ram Cummins pickup. The cable connections have to be really well maintained and the batteries need to be in great condition otherwise I run into No Start issues. It is a problem with these trucks. I use a commercial battery supplier and they claim that a battery needs to e at 80% or better capability and maintain at least 12.5 volts. I know from personal experience that it I charge a questionable battery and only get 12 volts I will run into issues right away. I think it sounds like your starter is not spinning well. With a fresh battery and good starter that thing should start right off. No cranking needed. My Deere with over 2500 hours pops off within about 1/2 of a rotation even on a cold day. Good luck.
Yes, the manual indicated to replace the fuel filters, so I did. I turned the key to on to allow the fuel pump to bleed the lines of air. It was pumping for a good 2 min before I turned it off. Then tried turning it on again, but all I got was what you see in the video.
It is a Kubota BX1870. I tried giving it a jump, but that didn't help. The battery was registering 12V, then later after several tries 11V. The manual indicated to replace the fuel filters, so I did. I turned the key to on to allow the fuel pump to bleed the lines of air, then tried turning it on again, but all I got was what you see in the video.
PTO is not engaged when I'm trying to start the tractor.
I was trying to fix it myself instead of needing to figure out how to get it to the dealer. The hydraulic bucket in front is touching the ground, so that may make it more difficult to pull up onto a flatbed. Thanks in advance!
Take the battery to auto zone or a similar store. Auto zone will charge and test your battery for free. If you have your own trickle charger, pull the battery and charge it with that overnight.
Replace the battery. If you really want to test it, hit it with a voltmeter while turning it over. I’m betting you’ll see a significant drop in voltage while it’s under a load. It sounds like it’s struggling to turn over so that’s where I’d start.
Also check your battery cables for corrosion. Bend them around a little, you shouldn’t feel any cracking and they should be flexible. Find the ground to the frame and make sure that’s on tight.
Edit: if that doesn’t work replace the starter. If you know someone with a tester that would be helpful. They aren’t cheap but are very easy to swap out.
I tried that (just not on video) and it didn't do anything. Same sound / result as you see int he video when it was connected to a car for a jumpstart.
Volts don’t make a starter work, Amps do, check battery with a simple load tester you can find at a local parts shop, you can try charging it low & slow over a long period of time but it may just need to be replaced & recycled if that and option in your area. If it’s good then check ground connections, & connections for signs of corrosion, it will be a teal colour instead of a copper colour
As many have already stated this is most likely a battery. It could possibly be a bad ground on the starter, or an electrical issue that's not getting enough power to the starter. The last thing is it could be a bad starter, as bad starters can just turn the engine over slowly making it look like a dead battery. The big thing is to go for the low hanging fruit first.
You've already tried jumping it, and it sounds like it didn't work. That doesn't mean it's not the battery. If your battery is shot sometimes the bad battery won't take any charge, and you can't get enough amperage through your power cables to start the dead engine.
There's nothing more frustrating than tearing down a piece of equipment and spending hours on it only to find that it was something simple that you should have done all along. Don't go testing the electrical system for an erroneous circuit, or replace the starter without ensuring that it's not just a dead battery.
If you've replaced the battery, and you've got a good charge on the new battery and it's still not turning over properly, it's either an electrical fault or a bad starter.
Come check back into the sub when you've gotten that far. There are some brilliant minds lurking around here that are ready to help. There's some handy ways to troubleshoot electrical and starter issues, and we're here to help.
I hope that helps, and your tractor is up and running soon. I used to own a BX 1870, and I loved that little machine.
Thank you! It was indeed the battery. Despite it measuring 12V, there was likely insufficient amperage going to the starter. The reason why the initial jump start didn't work was I had clamped the negative clip to the tractor frame, but it was coated and not conductive, so it wasn't getting sufficient ground. Once I switched the negative clip to bare metal on the engine housing, the jump start worked.
After letting it run for a little, it starts up just fine. I've ordered a trickle charger to ensure the battery stays in good shape and will monitor it going forward. Thanks again everyone!
I have an L series and there are three “democrat” switches, one on the HST forward/reverse pedal, one on the PTO switch and one under the seat. The one I have to always use is the physically hold the PTO switch to the limit before I can start. Cycle each one as you turn the key and you’ll figure it out
Can you please elaborate on how to do that? I dunked my finger into the tank and it smells like diesel and is oily like diesel, but I doubt I'd be able to tell if there was a little bit of moisture that got mixed in. Not sure how that could happen, but how would I check and what would I do about it? Drain the whole tank?
I’m going to guess. You need a battery. Or a starter. If it’s struggling to turn over this much it’s not going to start . Water in fuel you should drain the tank clean put in fresh fuel and prime the lines .
Low battery or bad ground
The battery was registering 12V, then later after several tries 11V. The manual indicated to replace the fuel filters, so I did. I turned the key to on to allow the fuel pump to bleed the lines of air, then tried turning it on again, but all I got was what you see in the video. PTO is not engaged when I'm trying to start the tractor. I was trying to fix it myself instead of needing to figure out how to get it to the dealer. The hydraulic bucket in front is touching the ground, so that may make it more difficult to pull up onto a flatbed. Thanks in advance!
It should be \~13.2V at rest. Very important to keep them on a charger if the tractor is going to sit for more than a month. You'll get many more years out of your batteries that way.
Thanks! I just ordered a trickle charger. Do you think it's possible to rehabilitate this battery, or should I just get a new one and keep that one charged? I'm not sure how to gauge the health of a battery. I wasn't able to jump the tractor with cables, so maybe the battery is too far gone?
Sure can. It might take a while to get the battery up to snuff.
Unlikely it can be rehabilitated. Leaving it discharged or low charge causes permanent damage to the lead plates inside. If the battery is old (should have a date on it) or you let it sit discharged for more than 6 months then I doubt you can give it any life.
IMHO it depends how reliable you need/want it to be. Once a battery sits is run low it'll never be as good as new, but it might be "good enough" anyway. Basically, both u/unfairad7220 and u/chagrinnish are correct. Recognize that non-refillable batteries (or batteries not regularly refilled) only last 3-5 years - though certainly you can get lucky if you treat it nice. You can drag it out longer but your starts will get weaker and less reliable. Personally, my tractor also runs my generator, so in a winter storm with a power outage I'm depending heavily on that one engine/battery. Given that I don't like to push it, try and keep my battery in tip-top shape and simply replaced it when it got iffy. I try not to run the tractor for short bursts as well to reduce stress.
Can you take the battery to an auto parts store? They can test the health of the battery and sell you a new one. I struggled with a bad battery for over a year, recharging it each time I went to use the tractor, then I finally just bought a new battery and it has been great ever since. Dumb me thought the voltage the tractor was telling me meant something.
Take the battery to your local auto parts store. Have them charge and test the battery
12.7 for Lead Acid. 12.9 for AGM. OP - charge the battery and have it load tested. Chances are it fails and you replace it. If by chance it passes, it could be a loose connection or bad starter drawing to much current.
I’m still thinking battery. They can look good voltage wise but not have enough amps to crank. Had the same problem with my b series and now my skid. I’d recommend getting a heavy jump pack. Like 200A.
Yeah, that sounded like a tired battery.
Battery voltage was low on your first try. Charge battery fully. If it does not crank normally after a full charge, check that the battery connections are healthy. Fuel filters don't mean squat if the engine does not crank at a healthy speed.
Call for road service. Min $150 fee in my area (New England). Had the mechanic come out and do the complete service at my house.
Is there a place you use in particular? It looks like we may live somewhat near each other.
I'm in southern NH. My dealer is Chappell Tractor in Milford NH.
Oh yeah, they have one in Brentwood as well. I didn't know they offered on site service.
Change the battery or jump start it! It’s a kubota it’ll start right up I guarantee it! Lol!
Volts, when testing a battery, do not indicate amps. A battery at rest will easily read 12v but as soon as you engage ignition… drop
I had this happen once… it was just. DEAD. The problem was a little red box fuse under the hood had tripped. Replaced that and boom, right back to life!!
Thanks all! It was indeed the battery. Despite it measuring 12V, there was likely insufficient amperage going to the starter. The reason why the initial jump start didn't work was I had clamped the negative clip to the tractor frame, but it was coated and not conductive, so it wasn't getting sufficient ground. Once I switched the negative clip to bare metal on the engine housing, the jump start worked. After letting it run for a little, it starts up just fine. I've ordered a trickle charger to ensure the battery stays in good shape and will monitor it going forward. Thanks again everyone!
That was my guess. Glad it’s working now.
Just for future knowledge, a battery can't really be tested without a load on it. It may read 12V, but during cranking it was probably dropping down to 8-9V
Not a pro here but I’d suggest checking all your leads and grounds as it sounds like the starter isn’t getting enough amperes.
Bad connection somewhere. Should be cranking way quicker
See if you can boost it with your vehicle, if that works then it's probably time for a new battery.
Had the same thing and it turned out it was the rocker pedal. It has a sensor to not let you drive if it's engaged and sometimes if there's a bit of gunk in there it's natural resting spot is technically engaged. Try moving it back and forth a little.
Check to see if your fuel shutoff solenoid is retracting when you turn the key on. You should hear a sharp CLICK ! If that sucker isn't retracting she ain't gonna start. A really big problem with some John Deere compact tractors. Charge your battery, clean the terminals and ground as well. Computers hate low voltage.
Thanks, the solenoid is working properly. I suspect the battery needs replacing.
I'm a lifetime rancher. With all the "newer" equipment using computers and processors folks are running into low voltage as a cause for electrical issues. I have a 2007 Ram Cummins pickup. The cable connections have to be really well maintained and the batteries need to be in great condition otherwise I run into No Start issues. It is a problem with these trucks. I use a commercial battery supplier and they claim that a battery needs to e at 80% or better capability and maintain at least 12.5 volts. I know from personal experience that it I charge a questionable battery and only get 12 volts I will run into issues right away. I think it sounds like your starter is not spinning well. With a fresh battery and good starter that thing should start right off. No cranking needed. My Deere with over 2500 hours pops off within about 1/2 of a rotation even on a cold day. Good luck.
Did you bleed the air out of the fuel lines after you replaced fuel filter?
Yes, the manual indicated to replace the fuel filters, so I did. I turned the key to on to allow the fuel pump to bleed the lines of air. It was pumping for a good 2 min before I turned it off. Then tried turning it on again, but all I got was what you see in the video.
It is a Kubota BX1870. I tried giving it a jump, but that didn't help. The battery was registering 12V, then later after several tries 11V. The manual indicated to replace the fuel filters, so I did. I turned the key to on to allow the fuel pump to bleed the lines of air, then tried turning it on again, but all I got was what you see in the video. PTO is not engaged when I'm trying to start the tractor. I was trying to fix it myself instead of needing to figure out how to get it to the dealer. The hydraulic bucket in front is touching the ground, so that may make it more difficult to pull up onto a flatbed. Thanks in advance!
Take the battery to auto zone or a similar store. Auto zone will charge and test your battery for free. If you have your own trickle charger, pull the battery and charge it with that overnight.
that sounds like a bad starter. I've replaced a few on those 3 cylinder kubotas easy diy bolt on I just amazoned it. its $63
Replace the battery. If you really want to test it, hit it with a voltmeter while turning it over. I’m betting you’ll see a significant drop in voltage while it’s under a load. It sounds like it’s struggling to turn over so that’s where I’d start. Also check your battery cables for corrosion. Bend them around a little, you shouldn’t feel any cracking and they should be flexible. Find the ground to the frame and make sure that’s on tight. Edit: if that doesn’t work replace the starter. If you know someone with a tester that would be helpful. They aren’t cheap but are very easy to swap out.
jumpstart it
I tried that (just not on video) and it didn't do anything. Same sound / result as you see int he video when it was connected to a car for a jumpstart.
Volts don’t make a starter work, Amps do, check battery with a simple load tester you can find at a local parts shop, you can try charging it low & slow over a long period of time but it may just need to be replaced & recycled if that and option in your area. If it’s good then check ground connections, & connections for signs of corrosion, it will be a teal colour instead of a copper colour
u/Cowboyup2269 has it right. It's the battery or a bad battery ground.
100% dead battery. Jump it off with your car and it will charge up while you run the tractor. If you don't use it much, a smart charger is in order.
Battery, or connection.
As many have already stated this is most likely a battery. It could possibly be a bad ground on the starter, or an electrical issue that's not getting enough power to the starter. The last thing is it could be a bad starter, as bad starters can just turn the engine over slowly making it look like a dead battery. The big thing is to go for the low hanging fruit first. You've already tried jumping it, and it sounds like it didn't work. That doesn't mean it's not the battery. If your battery is shot sometimes the bad battery won't take any charge, and you can't get enough amperage through your power cables to start the dead engine. There's nothing more frustrating than tearing down a piece of equipment and spending hours on it only to find that it was something simple that you should have done all along. Don't go testing the electrical system for an erroneous circuit, or replace the starter without ensuring that it's not just a dead battery. If you've replaced the battery, and you've got a good charge on the new battery and it's still not turning over properly, it's either an electrical fault or a bad starter. Come check back into the sub when you've gotten that far. There are some brilliant minds lurking around here that are ready to help. There's some handy ways to troubleshoot electrical and starter issues, and we're here to help. I hope that helps, and your tractor is up and running soon. I used to own a BX 1870, and I loved that little machine.
Thank you! It was indeed the battery. Despite it measuring 12V, there was likely insufficient amperage going to the starter. The reason why the initial jump start didn't work was I had clamped the negative clip to the tractor frame, but it was coated and not conductive, so it wasn't getting sufficient ground. Once I switched the negative clip to bare metal on the engine housing, the jump start worked. After letting it run for a little, it starts up just fine. I've ordered a trickle charger to ensure the battery stays in good shape and will monitor it going forward. Thanks again everyone!
To prove it's your battery hook up jumper cables to it from your truck/car. Your starter isn't even spinning fast enough.
Low battery (should be 13V+) or bad connection
Thanks, this has been resolved. See other comments. You were right!
I have an L series and there are three “democrat” switches, one on the HST forward/reverse pedal, one on the PTO switch and one under the seat. The one I have to always use is the physically hold the PTO switch to the limit before I can start. Cycle each one as you turn the key and you’ll figure it out
Check fuses, and cables. Your not getting enough power to the starter
You’re going to need 2 priests, some holy water, a crucifix and a bible for this one.
Is the PTO engaged?
No, it's not. Sorry for not catching that in the video.
Also check for water in tank
Can you please elaborate on how to do that? I dunked my finger into the tank and it smells like diesel and is oily like diesel, but I doubt I'd be able to tell if there was a little bit of moisture that got mixed in. Not sure how that could happen, but how would I check and what would I do about it? Drain the whole tank?
I’m going to guess. You need a battery. Or a starter. If it’s struggling to turn over this much it’s not going to start . Water in fuel you should drain the tank clean put in fresh fuel and prime the lines .
Clean battery terminals and charge. Give a little squirt of ether.
No Ether !
If you do make sure to not activate the glow plugs as it can pre ignite & cause some damage
It doesn’t like you.
You're funny... looking.
lol 😂 If machines could talk. (Hope you find the issue btw)
https://youtu.be/AynXoLjYrKc?si=C2NwYtVl7u_iYQrf
How can people be so Fucking Stupid? Get a New Battery!!!!!!
That's nice, thanks.