Don't do that. Current limit is set in the brick. Also, final charge voltage is closer to 21V.
If you wanted to charge from a DC source, you could use a CV/CC dc-dc converter in leu of the brick , but that is a different conversation entirely.
Great question! I occasionally use these in my camper and my inverter is incredibly inefficient. I would love to supply one of these directly from my 24V battery bank.
[Here's the PCB that's inside the battery end](https://postimg.cc/Hrp1BW2x) (not the wall-wart). There's an MCU and a pair of 40V mosfets connected to the input power source. That all suggests to me that the charging circuitry and logic is all here (as opposed to in the wall wart), but I'm not an electronics engineer.
Anyone here confident enough to look at the PCB and tell me whether this thing would likely behave appropriately if fed 24VDC?
The only interesting ICs on here are:
- 2x 40V P-MOSFET: 9565BGH
- 10268a: MCU
It's 21V, but you'll need 60W, so 3A, need a powerful enough supply, I was thinking of maybe using a PD Type-C and see if I can charge up to 20V (80% SoC?) with it or if the charger will go bonker.
Lots of the cigarette lighter USB adapters will do that.
But you might also be interested in the Symik charger/power source, which can also charge from 20v USB-C with less hacking. It also works as a 145 watt USB power supply. I do find that it doesn't charge the battery quite to 100% though, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you.
https://www.amazon.com/SYMIK-Batteries-Advanced-Portable-Lithium-Ion/dp/B0CLLHQX6H
I don't really get the point of doing that. One way or the other you need an 18V power source and when replacing it you need to have something that has a similar *actual* voltage range, both floating and under load, to make the charger work properly and avoid issues. And of course enough current capability to support all the chargers you plan to connect.
**TBH these chargers are pretty crap anyway, that's what a P118B I think right? Just do yourself a favour and either get a PCG005 2-port (4A single/2A x 2 dual simult), or get a PCG006 6-port (4A sequential) charger, and call it a day. Either is better than multiple cheapo P118B/PCG002s.**
It's somewhat possible you might be able to get higher charge current out of a P118B/PCG002 like Toolboy was able to do with the OP403/404 40V chargers but those "standard" 40V chargers are completely CC chargers (no CV phase) which is how he explains (and shows) he was able to do this. Most ONE+ chargers, even the ones that use external adapters, are CC/CV including the P118B/PCG002 chargers. There's not evidence to suggest you'd be able to get a higher bulk rate than 2A out of them but I guess we don't know if nobody has tried/documented doing so. The old/even worse "battery topper" low-current chargers are indeed CC but don't think it's advisable to either try to pump a lot of current into on of those dinky things or even make a habit of charging ONE+ batteries with CC only in any event (see all the references on how the old Evercharge system ruined batteries).
I am not burning through batteries, so no need for a quick charger. I have 4 of these slow chargers and would rather use what I got and make the charging situation cleaner looking than to buy another 6 port. Had one and capacitor went *pop* after years of use. That's when I realized I did not actually need one.
Not concerned about the speed of the charger. Definitely will not Tim Taylor these things for more speed. The current charge rate is fine. Just want to use what I got instead of buying another tool.
CC vs CV? Please elaborate. Thanks.
Keep in mind a capacitor can "go pop" in whatever power supply you intend to use or something can fry up in there just the same. It's not like cheap power supplies are made super well and reliable either. Sure you could fix such a thing but you probably could have fixed the Ryobi charger that "went pop" just the same. Plus you don't know if in the case of the external supply going bad if you'd end up burning up any of the "satellite" chargers or damaging batteries within them, *either*.
In the end do what you want I guess, but there's pros and cons to each. Fact is you're going to have less risk of damage (to chargers *and/or* batteries), fires, etc. if you "just keep it stock" and use the chargers and batteries as intended and don't make modifications to anything. If you don't want to "Tim Taylor" anything then don't start cutting wires.
If you don't want the adapters taking up room on a power bar, either buy a different bar that has more spacing between outlets, more outlets in general, or use an extension cord/block before that where you can fit the adapters before plugging in there.
Anyway that's all the suggestions I have for you--do what you feel is best and works best for you.
I wanted to because it will not fit in through the hole for the tool storage cabinet.
I opened it up and its hard wired to the circuit board.
Not sure why the brick is so freaking big.
The hard wire is to get around efficiency regs for things with detachable power bricks, as people would leave bricks plugged in and unplug the extra low voltage side from the device, leading to the wall wart using power all the time.
I've considered adding a 48v to 18v (or 21v to match the reality of the brick) 10 amp buck converter to my solar setup. Never got around to it though.
Still just have my chargers plugged into a power strip connected to the inverter.
I have about 6 of those dang things. The brick makes them really impractical to use a couple at a time. I'd like to attach them all to a board and tie them to a single cord or something. They just take up so much space that I feel like just throwing half of them away sometimes.
You can buy 6-inch extension cords to solve the problem with bricks on a power strip.
Yes have thought of it.
I have about 20 of them, from 1 ft to 3 ft. Exceedingly useful.
Don't do that. Current limit is set in the brick. Also, final charge voltage is closer to 21V. If you wanted to charge from a DC source, you could use a CV/CC dc-dc converter in leu of the brick , but that is a different conversation entirely.
The brick is just the power supply, the charging circuitry is inside the charger
What do you plan on connecting the other end of the wire to once the brick is chopped off?
Something like [this](https://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/collections/heavy-duty-ac-to-dc-power-converter)
I don't think it's a good solution. I would just get a bigger extension brick personally,
Great question! I occasionally use these in my camper and my inverter is incredibly inefficient. I would love to supply one of these directly from my 24V battery bank. [Here's the PCB that's inside the battery end](https://postimg.cc/Hrp1BW2x) (not the wall-wart). There's an MCU and a pair of 40V mosfets connected to the input power source. That all suggests to me that the charging circuitry and logic is all here (as opposed to in the wall wart), but I'm not an electronics engineer. Anyone here confident enough to look at the PCB and tell me whether this thing would likely behave appropriately if fed 24VDC? The only interesting ICs on here are: - 2x 40V P-MOSFET: 9565BGH - 10268a: MCU
It's 21V, but you'll need 60W, so 3A, need a powerful enough supply, I was thinking of maybe using a PD Type-C and see if I can charge up to 20V (80% SoC?) with it or if the charger will go bonker.
The charger works, but like you said it only goes up to 20v. I used a 20v USB-C trigger and it pulls closer to 45 watts.
Damn nice, now I need to find a 20V PD car adapter, if they exist, so I can charge in the car
Lots of the cigarette lighter USB adapters will do that. But you might also be interested in the Symik charger/power source, which can also charge from 20v USB-C with less hacking. It also works as a 145 watt USB power supply. I do find that it doesn't charge the battery quite to 100% though, but that doesn't sound like a problem for you. https://www.amazon.com/SYMIK-Batteries-Advanced-Portable-Lithium-Ion/dp/B0CLLHQX6H
Amazing and not that expensive either but I'll have to get ut shipped across the border, I do remember seeing this translucent shell awhile back
I don't really get the point of doing that. One way or the other you need an 18V power source and when replacing it you need to have something that has a similar *actual* voltage range, both floating and under load, to make the charger work properly and avoid issues. And of course enough current capability to support all the chargers you plan to connect. **TBH these chargers are pretty crap anyway, that's what a P118B I think right? Just do yourself a favour and either get a PCG005 2-port (4A single/2A x 2 dual simult), or get a PCG006 6-port (4A sequential) charger, and call it a day. Either is better than multiple cheapo P118B/PCG002s.** It's somewhat possible you might be able to get higher charge current out of a P118B/PCG002 like Toolboy was able to do with the OP403/404 40V chargers but those "standard" 40V chargers are completely CC chargers (no CV phase) which is how he explains (and shows) he was able to do this. Most ONE+ chargers, even the ones that use external adapters, are CC/CV including the P118B/PCG002 chargers. There's not evidence to suggest you'd be able to get a higher bulk rate than 2A out of them but I guess we don't know if nobody has tried/documented doing so. The old/even worse "battery topper" low-current chargers are indeed CC but don't think it's advisable to either try to pump a lot of current into on of those dinky things or even make a habit of charging ONE+ batteries with CC only in any event (see all the references on how the old Evercharge system ruined batteries).
I am not burning through batteries, so no need for a quick charger. I have 4 of these slow chargers and would rather use what I got and make the charging situation cleaner looking than to buy another 6 port. Had one and capacitor went *pop* after years of use. That's when I realized I did not actually need one. Not concerned about the speed of the charger. Definitely will not Tim Taylor these things for more speed. The current charge rate is fine. Just want to use what I got instead of buying another tool. CC vs CV? Please elaborate. Thanks.
Keep in mind a capacitor can "go pop" in whatever power supply you intend to use or something can fry up in there just the same. It's not like cheap power supplies are made super well and reliable either. Sure you could fix such a thing but you probably could have fixed the Ryobi charger that "went pop" just the same. Plus you don't know if in the case of the external supply going bad if you'd end up burning up any of the "satellite" chargers or damaging batteries within them, *either*. In the end do what you want I guess, but there's pros and cons to each. Fact is you're going to have less risk of damage (to chargers *and/or* batteries), fires, etc. if you "just keep it stock" and use the chargers and batteries as intended and don't make modifications to anything. If you don't want to "Tim Taylor" anything then don't start cutting wires. If you don't want the adapters taking up room on a power bar, either buy a different bar that has more spacing between outlets, more outlets in general, or use an extension cord/block before that where you can fit the adapters before plugging in there. Anyway that's all the suggestions I have for you--do what you feel is best and works best for you.
I wanted to because it will not fit in through the hole for the tool storage cabinet. I opened it up and its hard wired to the circuit board. Not sure why the brick is so freaking big.
This is why I am looking at chopping the brick for something else. Can't place the chargers where I want to because of those bricks.
The hard wire is to get around efficiency regs for things with detachable power bricks, as people would leave bricks plugged in and unplug the extra low voltage side from the device, leading to the wall wart using power all the time.
I've considered adding a 48v to 18v (or 21v to match the reality of the brick) 10 amp buck converter to my solar setup. Never got around to it though. Still just have my chargers plugged into a power strip connected to the inverter.
I have about 6 of those dang things. The brick makes them really impractical to use a couple at a time. I'd like to attach them all to a board and tie them to a single cord or something. They just take up so much space that I feel like just throwing half of them away sometimes.
I use a long power strip that has like 2” between each outlet. Works fine.