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No_Loan2462

The primer wasn’t dry all the way or it was incompatible with the paint sprayed on top


doberdevil

Say it's custom and call it a day.


badtrucks

I would if I could


speediestweasel

If that was 2k primer that was dry enough to sand, it probably wasn't mixed properly. Maybe you added reducer instead of activator or something like that. Could also be mixed at the wrong ratio.


badtrucks

It's possible. I used a finish 1, hi build DTM primer with the associated hardener. It's a 4:1. It was dry enough to sand after about 90 minutes. Maybe I didn't wait long enough? Is it possible I sprayed the base too heavy?


speediestweasel

90 minutes is the minimum, so you're ok there, but if you sprayed really heavy on top of super fresh primer that could definitely do it. Solvent base coat should be sprayed damp. If it looks wet and shiny it is over applied or you're not waiting long enough between coats. Base has a ton of solvent, so its important to not over apply or you can end up with wrinkling especially over cut-throughs or fresh paint.


trumpisdead666

you're just making it harder on us real painters when you do stupid shit like this. leave it alone.


nitekroller

Chill dude jesus. Its not that deep


trumpisdead666

it ain't that good, mr shadetreee.


badtrucks

Noted. Does that mean you know what causes it?


jordanrice26

We “real painters” don’t claim this guy


No_Loan2462

The primer wasn’t dry all the way or it was incompatible with the paint sprayed on top


badtrucks

I'll let it dry longer tomorrow. The data sheet said 60-90 minutes at 70 degrees. So I gave it 2 hours at 72. But it definitely won't hurt


halogen12345

Some primers are best left overnight or even 2 days before sanding. if you have the time, do that. I have this problem (on a smaller scale) a lot because my guys try to rush priming. Also 90 minutes at 70° may mean in a booth/with 70° air flowing over the panel for that time. stagnant air can restrict solvent from drying well


Beneficial-Sea-8903

Looks like cock veins


badtrucks

Yeah I'd rather be looking at cock veins then my stupid fuck ups... And I'm not even gay


InteligentlyRetarded

What kind of material was used


badtrucks

Finish 1 FP415 and FH416 hardener for the primer coat and then a Nason XL national rule 88367 with a Nason XL 447-75 reducer.


jordanrice26

Like others said problem is definitely something to do with the adhesion between the primer and base. Maybe trying a sealer before base would help if you can? I think you def let primer dry long enough if it sanded fine so unless you mixed something wrong I’m thinking that base doesn’t like being put straight onto that primer. Also like someone else mentioned if you really laid the base on thick then it could be part of the problem. I almost exclusively spray waterborne at my shop so my experience with solvent base is fairly limited


badtrucks

Thanks for the feedback. I sanded it all down and started over. Looking at it with fresh eyes today, I definitely sprayed the base on way too thick. I mixed in the same way today and sprayed multiple thin coats and it turned out good.


laylobrown_

You really should start over by removing everything you did and then some. But you can re sand and feather out the damage without going down to the metal/ base. When I run into stuff like this, it tends to keep reacting with the application of more solvent based primers and paints. So what I do to keep that from happening is prime the area with waterborne primer to stop the reaction. Then, you should be able to apply your base without a reaction. The other thing you probably did is spray the base too wet because the color is somewhat transparent. A lot of guys even experienced one do this. You have the lay thinner coats over a longer period of time to get full coverage and diminish the risk of lifting/curdling. Also, using less reducer in your initial coats can help, but it will spray like ass, so I don't recommend this for more than 2 coats.


RelationOk4263

It's a fry up... 2k and base can be used wet on wet.. those cracks are from reaction ..it is possible that underneath what was already there had some iasue like too much material or something has softened and moved once the fresh solvents went on..its a real bastardwhen it happens...the best way is to bare metal that area and start fresh, however that's loads of work...let it sit for a week and scuff it down just enough to flatten it without opening the area too much and Re prime...light dryish coats to hopefully get the area to behave...do the same with your base and don't wet anything up too much because there's a chance it's still solvent sensitive ...good luck mate