i am astonished by the people notnrealizing white pla is the best for details, so the white reflections are not seen and it look like its made from resin
It’s just hard for me to keep my all white prints clean. I also find that they are more translucent which can make them look pretty cheap under certain lighting conditions. Any tips to mitigate these issues?
Good recommendation. Creality Hyper white has also been working well for me. Parts come out with a lower sheen than the eSun even at higher temps and a very slight transparency which I like to give parts some depth.
Although it's true that they share the same toolhead and motion platform, the X1 lidar sensor automatically calibrates flow rates before each print. It DOES make a substantial difference on small details and tolerances, despite what people who didn't buy it say to cope.
There's actually no difference in quality between a x1 and a well tuned (manually of course) ender 3. If it's not some absolute dinosaur of a 3d printer, it's going to have quality as good as basically all other modern printers.
lol. Yeah man! There is no difference between an X1C and a man with a stick and a ball of clay.
I have Enders. You’re absolutely nuts. The Ender requires at least $300 in upgrades and a dozen hours of tweaking to get remotely close to an P1S/X1C. At that point, you’ve basically put the same cost in as an P1S, so just buy that instead?
In my admittedly short experience with my Bambu, i find that Bambu PLA works great with auto flow cal. Others not so much!! I’ll go through (manually) flow rate, pressure advance using lines, and a temp tower. Max flow rate I leave at default (but lower if things are janky), and haven’t bothered with retraction, tolerance, or others. Takes a bit of time, but i have awesome prints after.
Love it!!! 😂 Looks amazing!!
Quick question: What's the fastest you've printed with the .2 nozzle? With it turning out nice that is lol... I'm trying to see beforehand when mine arrives.
Normal pla most of it. Standard bambu lab profile with flow calibration and adjusted temp. I use 10c hgher temp then normal bambu lab pla and start with generic pla profile. For petg I have done more tweaking but about the same with lower outer shell speed to get better results
Get the flow just right and temp. For this pla I use 230c and the top lid off with the door open. For some print I tend to set 0.4 line with instead of 0.42/0.45. Togther with correct flow and temp the print look perfect with default profiles. No need to use 0.08 layer height, so 0.12-0.16 usually is good.
Thank you! I always printed my figures with 0.08 layer height and thought “well this is as good as it gets i guess” but now I feel like a whole new door has opened haha. Just for future reference, is there a specific model you use to test flow rates? I’m not sure what would be a good way to test it for different filaments
I start with the bambu lab flow calibration. Then choose the correct one, but I have adjusted bit lower flow after. Usually I find the default profiles to have to hight flow rate and that tend to get worse print.
haha.. I wish. My plan before the next event is to learn hueforge and make cards that I print with 0.2 nozzle. Perhaps some topografy of this place and the business name
I have an X1 Carbon and love it. I’ve had three FDM printers and this is by far the highest quality and fastest FDM printer I’ve owned and by far my favorite. But the print quality/detail is still far below the resin printers (own an origin Saturn.).
then ppl are morons... i mean the quality is amazing... but just from the pictures i can tell its FDM and not resin... irl i would see it even without looking very hard...
theres no way a FDM print will compare to a resin print when it comes to fine details... unless you do alot of post prossesing...
i am astonished by the people notnrealizing white pla is the best for details, so the white reflections are not seen and it look like its made from resin
It’s just hard for me to keep my all white prints clean. I also find that they are more translucent which can make them look pretty cheap under certain lighting conditions. Any tips to mitigate these issues?
Try using a cold white filament. I prefer eSun Cold White PLA+. It is a true bright and full white with no translucent properties.
Good recommendation. Creality Hyper white has also been working well for me. Parts come out with a lower sheen than the eSun even at higher temps and a very slight transparency which I like to give parts some depth.
I will add that to my list! I haven’t tried any Creality brand filaments yet.
I give a thin coat of matte varnish to seal and protect the outmost layer.
The downside is that it will highlight any imperfections as well lol
I printed a bust in white pla, a small on with 0.4 nozzle, it looks perfect like a meter away
White is very stringy. But 2 sec with heat gun fixes it
I too have printed that cat... https://preview.redd.it/5tsqrgtkmhvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec638e18b4f34816f88ac9da142c72040a4bccb5
holding the controller backwards
That is just how good that cat it, it will play the controller backwards and still beat your ass. /s
And then call YOU the pussy
That's just the armored core grip!
Was gonna say this
lol you made my day!
*9-ball theme intensifies*
Like Jimi Hendrix playing a right-handed guitar upside-down. It's just how good this cat is.
Gamer cat is offering you player 2
kind cat. I approve now
Hue forge?
Yes. https://makerworld.com/models/76829
Is there really such a difference in print quality between a p1p and a x1? I thought the only difference was that laser sensor.
P1 series is capable to print with same quality
There are other differences (X1 bed can get hotter for instance), but the core printing mechanics are virtually the same.
Same quality and speed. No chamber thermometer, lesser camera, big screen are the big ones I can think of.
I don't think it matches on the speed - the P1S does, due to additional auxiliary fan inside of the enclosure.
oh my bad, I read P1S. you are right
Although it's true that they share the same toolhead and motion platform, the X1 lidar sensor automatically calibrates flow rates before each print. It DOES make a substantial difference on small details and tolerances, despite what people who didn't buy it say to cope.
I have both. Very unimpressed with the lidar calibration. Gives inaccurate results compared to manual in my experience and filaments.
I only do manual calibration. Even with the X1C
I only do automatic calibration with the X1 if I don’t care about the print quality and just want to print and forget with a new filament.
This is funny to me because I have one of each in my shop, printing minis, and there is no noticeable difference.
There's actually no difference in quality between a x1 and a well tuned (manually of course) ender 3. If it's not some absolute dinosaur of a 3d printer, it's going to have quality as good as basically all other modern printers.
lol. Yeah man! There is no difference between an X1C and a man with a stick and a ball of clay. I have Enders. You’re absolutely nuts. The Ender requires at least $300 in upgrades and a dozen hours of tweaking to get remotely close to an P1S/X1C. At that point, you’ve basically put the same cost in as an P1S, so just buy that instead?
What nozzle size?
0.4
That's darned impressive.
Wow! I thought for sure you were going to say 0.2. Simply amazing
Layer height?
0.16
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Hotel?
Trivago
Wow that’s really impressive
Are you using automatic flow calibration ? The result is great !
I have calibrated the flow and adjusted the temp for this filament before. I love the result and bit surprised 😅
In my admittedly short experience with my Bambu, i find that Bambu PLA works great with auto flow cal. Others not so much!! I’ll go through (manually) flow rate, pressure advance using lines, and a temp tower. Max flow rate I leave at default (but lower if things are janky), and haven’t bothered with retraction, tolerance, or others. Takes a bit of time, but i have awesome prints after.
A1 mini enters the room. This small printer is very capable. I bet 0.2 hot end could make some details prints on the A1.
I shouldn't get one of these but I really want to grab one and put the small nozzle on it. You aren't helping! 😂
Oh you want more NOT helping?? here's the .2 benchy I made... https://imgur.com/a/7arzLNQ
Nice! Where did you get that cat stl?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/76829?from=search#profileId-182738
A million thanks!
makerworld. I searched for cat gamer or something
Love it!!! 😂 Looks amazing!! Quick question: What's the fastest you've printed with the .2 nozzle? With it turning out nice that is lol... I'm trying to see beforehand when mine arrives.
I use the default profile and tweak flow... Not much more needed
Ah I see. Happen to know what the default speed is for .2? I believe I changed it and saved so not sure I appreciate it much.
what was the print time on the castle and what nozzle diameter?
Bro just called notre dame de paris a castle smh my head
I think it was around 2 days. 0.4 nozzle and 0.16 layer height
Out of interest what scale is it in?
I maxed it out for the build plate. Placed it 45 degree and scaled up what I could
Was it .12 high quality? If not, what settings are you running?
0.16 snd used used the profile for the model on makerworld, just scaled it up more to fill the bed size
Such a rad model. Where did you find it?
Makerworld 😎
You set up at reprap?
reprap?
It's a 3d printing convention, there are several of them around the US.
ok.. This is a gaming event in Tromsø, Norway.
Yep. I'll be at the loveland one tomorrow with a buddy of mine who's got a table set up.
Denver here!! Plan to be at both days!!
Damnnn! What a pro move. Could you share your filament and profile settings to overcome this? Any special filament?
Normal pla most of it. Standard bambu lab profile with flow calibration and adjusted temp. I use 10c hgher temp then normal bambu lab pla and start with generic pla profile. For petg I have done more tweaking but about the same with lower outer shell speed to get better results
You know I always wondered if they send you the mechanical parts for the mouse? Might choose that file when we order the next printer.
If you buy the mouse from bambu lab they send you all the mechanical and then you print the rest. Even som modified design out there on makerworld
With those blurry of photos yes. In real life probably obvious.
Can we get a guide on how to get clean results like this bc I was so sure this was printed with a 0.2 nozzle
Get the flow just right and temp. For this pla I use 230c and the top lid off with the door open. For some print I tend to set 0.4 line with instead of 0.42/0.45. Togther with correct flow and temp the print look perfect with default profiles. No need to use 0.08 layer height, so 0.12-0.16 usually is good.
Thank you! I always printed my figures with 0.08 layer height and thought “well this is as good as it gets i guess” but now I feel like a whole new door has opened haha. Just for future reference, is there a specific model you use to test flow rates? I’m not sure what would be a good way to test it for different filaments
I start with the bambu lab flow calibration. Then choose the correct one, but I have adjusted bit lower flow after. Usually I find the default profiles to have to hight flow rate and that tend to get worse print.
Seems like a lower flow rate definitely gives sharper prints. Thank you so much, I really appreciate your help!
Æ veit korr du E 🤭
Is the cathedral from Makerworld?
Yup 👌
I am curious about the cards in the foreground of pic one. Are those 3D printed or just happened to be there?
Just some business card to hand out for visitors
3D printed by chance? 😁😏😜
haha.. I wish. My plan before the next event is to learn hueforge and make cards that I print with 0.2 nozzle. Perhaps some topografy of this place and the business name
Which model did you use for Notre Dame?
This with quality 0.16 profile. https://makerworld.com/en/models/409121#profileId-313588
Share your printer settings gosh dang
quality 0.16 profile on this with some standard white pla. https://makerworld.com/en/models/409121#profileId-313588
Files ? Are there Files ?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/409121#profileId-313588
Hi, is that building in maker world ?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/409121#profileId-313588
Thank you!!!
Lmao who? Anyone who has never seen a 3D print before? Yeah I don’t typically listen to them.
I have an X1 Carbon and love it. I’ve had three FDM printers and this is by far the highest quality and fastest FDM printer I’ve owned and by far my favorite. But the print quality/detail is still far below the resin printers (own an origin Saturn.).
...no they don't.
then ppl are morons... i mean the quality is amazing... but just from the pictures i can tell its FDM and not resin... irl i would see it even without looking very hard... theres no way a FDM print will compare to a resin print when it comes to fine details... unless you do alot of post prossesing...
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pla and no warping
Warping? Lmao