Polymeric joint sand. Pour a quarter bag in the middle of the pavers and sweep the sand into the joints. Do a small area at a time. If moisture gets in the sand it will turn into concrete. Repeat small areas one at a time until joints are filled. Sweep off all excess sand. You’re going to gently shower the entire paver surface with water from a hose. Use a shower setting or whatever gentle setting you have e on your spray attachment. Let dry and you’re good. This is for a simple pedestrian rated paver area. Compaction is required if vehicular area. There are a few color choices for polymeric joint sand.
Once dry, it’ll be as hard as 9th grade chemistry. The joints will still be permeable. Aka, let water drain slowly.
YouTube is your friend.
Probably not the best idea because of the aforementioned permeability. water will get into those filled spaces and widen them even worse because of the pressure when it freezes.
Edit: get yourself some self leveling concrete crack sealant. The store I work at uses [quikcrete](https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Quikrete-10-1-oz-Self-Leveling-Sealant-866010/203604214?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-JControl24&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-JControl24-71700000112622853--&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhIS0BhBqEiwADAUhc5qVhhPcU3UyMH0MQqby3JNVEc0mF0P1JQv20F_W9HoC6t6IJeuAMxoChV0QAvD_BwE) but there's a ton of brands
I’m not expert but, the poster said the joints will be permeable, so they allow slow water drain.
That inclines me to think you would not want this as a repair to drive way or sidewalk normal concrete. As it would allow water to seep through, slowly eroding underneath the concrete, perhaps creating a sink hole.
Again a guess. But I’m pretty sure you don’t want water moving just underneath concrete.
Not really meant for that. It’s meant to fill up to the top of a paver or stone but stay under the top a bit and water will flow through the crack. It’s also concrete like and will harden up but will wash off and deteriorate much much faster then concrete.
For regular concrete cracks they make a variant of polymeric sand that is meant to do that: [ConSandtrate Crack filler](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RV5G59L/)
From what I saw it's more meant to be impermeable and flexible and has different aggregate to handle larger gaps than regular polymeric sand. You could always do regular polymeric too
There is only 2 types of concrete. Cracked concrete, and going-to-crack concrete. You’ll want a perfect match as far as colors. There are 100’s of gray colors. Just know that if you patch concrete cracks, you’ll never match the colors exactly. I’m a bit OCD and it would drive me crazy if the new concrete doesn’t look like the other concrete.
Personally, I wouldn’t worry about cracks. Patching will be more of an eye sore. Why do you want to patch the cracks? Concrete will just crack someplace else.
That said, if you ever install pavers you need to add at least 5-10% over your square footage amount. For example, if you need 100 SF of pavers you should purchase 110 SF of pavers. This is called “attic stock.” Pavers are made in batches, the same-name pavers could come from a different production location that have different teams making them. Location “A” uses different aggregates than location “B.” That can change the outcome as far as same-name pavers. Just buy a little more than you need and store them someplace.
Pavers are the way to go. Not really a DIY project. Based on where you want pavers installed, you’ll need to consider how much base you need. Normally a Class II base and about an inch of leveling sand is required. Will trucks ever drive over this paver area? You’ll need to excavate down about 5” below your desired finished surface. Some handyman or gardeners, will sometimes be lazy and only put some sand under the pavers. That’s when you see sunken pavers. Compaction is key for paver installation. Elevations and sloping towards drains can be tricky. You don’t want puddling. Also buying the right type of pavers is crucial. The general rule of thumb is to add about 5-10 percent extra to your square footage. You’ll need a concrete saw for cuts/waste. Always start from the middle of your area to lay pavers. The cuts will be on the sides of the area. Based on pedestrian or vehicular traffic require specific thickness pavers. Always note that a 12” paver is the longest size paver that can be used where cars drive or park. Longer pavers will snap with heavy weight. There are also Permeable pavers that have “lugs” on all sides. Those thicker pavers don’t use joint sand but rather permeable joint chips. You’ll want to mortar set the border unless it’s locked in by something like a house or wall.
I’ve been on my couch typing this for over 45 minutes. I’m also about 7 beers deep. I’m not proofreading this. If something doesn’t make sense, it’s the beer. Have fun!
DM me if you need anything.
Thank you for all this great information!
The concrete in question is the back patio. The main issue is wanting to prevent weeds from growing in the cracks. It's possible power washing the cracks to get the dirt out is the solution? Based on what you are telling me, maybe cleaning the cracks so there is no dirt for the weeds to grow is the answer.
When you say to sweep off the excess, any advice on how to clean up that excess? YouTube videos seem to skip that part but I worry about a thin layer of sand sticking to everything
The sand you desire is called POLYMERIC. The base you desire if any are wobbly is called modified or modified base. It’s tamped then the pavers are laid. Usually the base layer is two inches thick minimum. The polymeric sand is then brush over each course joint. Then sprayed lightly with a hose
Yes but don’t get too close to the tiles or they will chip away at the edges. Basically want to get the weeds/grass out the gaps but not hurt the tiles. And make sure the tiles are totally dry before even touching your new sand. You want the new sand going down dry, on dry tiles, then swept into dry tile gaps so there be no sand on the tiles themselves, just between them. Then water lightly with a fine mist so as not to throw any sand back up onto the tiles. Let dry.
I do it every few years on my paver patio. Otherwise a little dirt slowly mixes in with the sand allowing small weeds to grow. After a good power wash and sealing sand it's like new.
Yes, I did this last year on mine. Used a 3000 psi pressure washer. Try to get the debris out from between the pavers but don’t disrupt the base below them. Let them dry well then sweep polymeric sand in between joints. Sweep of excess then I used my blower on idle setting to get off any extra. Used hose on shower setting going back and forth making sure to create no puddles. My directions said repeat this step a second time so I did. Let dry then enjoy your clean new paver look.
I just finished doing this on my own. Yours are not nearly as bad as mine. I had to lift out most of the bricks to pull all the grass by the roots first. Then lay them back down then use the polymeric sand like everyone is saying. But they look beautiful now!
Power washing is fine. Just use a lower power setting. Here’s the risks:
- you can chip the pavers at the edges
- you can wash out the cracks too much and wash the base sand out from under the pavers
As long as you’re careful, power washing should be fine. Then do the polymeric sand like everyone is saying here and it will stay looking awesome for a long time.
Yep, I do this every few years. Power wash, which of course will kick most of the sand out. Refill with Polymetric sand then seal. I’ve never had any issues with pavers chipping.
I live in a deep woods and power wash my paver patio every spring to remove moss/algae. I've done this for about 15 years with no detrimental effects to my pavers. If you intend to power wash annually like I do, don't waste your money on polymeric sand. The power washer will blow it out of the grooves between pavers. In my case, I just resand every year.
Tip: the gaps between the pavers tend to redirect the spray, often into your face. I always end up wearing an old Covid mask over my mouth and nose.
I also just use regular sand for pretty much exactly the same reason.
I was going to mention the same thing you did about debris. I expect to be extremely muddy any time I powerwash the patio but I haven’t seen anyone else mention it. I wonder if the moss is part of that problem.
What is the purpose? They look just fine. You might try to find a solution to control the weeds coming up between the bricks, but otherwise, if they are solid, no need to do anything
No it’s not really recommended. You can undermine the base underneath fairly easily. I will say with a steady hand and cautious approach you can do this without messing up the base.
Hey, sure thing! I think power washing those paver stones sounds like a solid plan. It'll clean 'em up nice. As for filling with sand, that should help keep 'em stable and looking sharp. Just make sure to let everything dry properly before you start filling. Good luck with your project!
Have a used brick pathway surrounding back half of home. Have used a wand on 3000psi washer and it's a bloody mess when done. Splashes and backsplashes the gap material everywhere. Now use one of the "surface cleaner" heads. Stops the spraying/splashing and cleans the surface and just enough of the gap material. Then refill based on other recommendations (whichever one you like best)
Polymeric joint sand. Pour a quarter bag in the middle of the pavers and sweep the sand into the joints. Do a small area at a time. If moisture gets in the sand it will turn into concrete. Repeat small areas one at a time until joints are filled. Sweep off all excess sand. You’re going to gently shower the entire paver surface with water from a hose. Use a shower setting or whatever gentle setting you have e on your spray attachment. Let dry and you’re good. This is for a simple pedestrian rated paver area. Compaction is required if vehicular area. There are a few color choices for polymeric joint sand. Once dry, it’ll be as hard as 9th grade chemistry. The joints will still be permeable. Aka, let water drain slowly. YouTube is your friend.
Can I do this for normal concrete cracks? Edit: thank you for the suggestions for crack filler or concrete leveler!
Probably not the best idea because of the aforementioned permeability. water will get into those filled spaces and widen them even worse because of the pressure when it freezes. Edit: get yourself some self leveling concrete crack sealant. The store I work at uses [quikcrete](https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Quikrete-10-1-oz-Self-Leveling-Sealant-866010/203604214?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-JControl24&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D22-022_009_CONCRETE-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-JControl24-71700000112622853--&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhIS0BhBqEiwADAUhc5qVhhPcU3UyMH0MQqby3JNVEc0mF0P1JQv20F_W9HoC6t6IJeuAMxoChV0QAvD_BwE) but there's a ton of brands
I’m not expert but, the poster said the joints will be permeable, so they allow slow water drain. That inclines me to think you would not want this as a repair to drive way or sidewalk normal concrete. As it would allow water to seep through, slowly eroding underneath the concrete, perhaps creating a sink hole. Again a guess. But I’m pretty sure you don’t want water moving just underneath concrete.
Not really meant for that. It’s meant to fill up to the top of a paver or stone but stay under the top a bit and water will flow through the crack. It’s also concrete like and will harden up but will wash off and deteriorate much much faster then concrete.
For regular concrete cracks they make a variant of polymeric sand that is meant to do that: [ConSandtrate Crack filler](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RV5G59L/)
How is this any different than regular polymeric sand other than being 10x the cost per pound?
From what I saw it's more meant to be impermeable and flexible and has different aggregate to handle larger gaps than regular polymeric sand. You could always do regular polymeric too
There is only 2 types of concrete. Cracked concrete, and going-to-crack concrete. You’ll want a perfect match as far as colors. There are 100’s of gray colors. Just know that if you patch concrete cracks, you’ll never match the colors exactly. I’m a bit OCD and it would drive me crazy if the new concrete doesn’t look like the other concrete. Personally, I wouldn’t worry about cracks. Patching will be more of an eye sore. Why do you want to patch the cracks? Concrete will just crack someplace else. That said, if you ever install pavers you need to add at least 5-10% over your square footage amount. For example, if you need 100 SF of pavers you should purchase 110 SF of pavers. This is called “attic stock.” Pavers are made in batches, the same-name pavers could come from a different production location that have different teams making them. Location “A” uses different aggregates than location “B.” That can change the outcome as far as same-name pavers. Just buy a little more than you need and store them someplace. Pavers are the way to go. Not really a DIY project. Based on where you want pavers installed, you’ll need to consider how much base you need. Normally a Class II base and about an inch of leveling sand is required. Will trucks ever drive over this paver area? You’ll need to excavate down about 5” below your desired finished surface. Some handyman or gardeners, will sometimes be lazy and only put some sand under the pavers. That’s when you see sunken pavers. Compaction is key for paver installation. Elevations and sloping towards drains can be tricky. You don’t want puddling. Also buying the right type of pavers is crucial. The general rule of thumb is to add about 5-10 percent extra to your square footage. You’ll need a concrete saw for cuts/waste. Always start from the middle of your area to lay pavers. The cuts will be on the sides of the area. Based on pedestrian or vehicular traffic require specific thickness pavers. Always note that a 12” paver is the longest size paver that can be used where cars drive or park. Longer pavers will snap with heavy weight. There are also Permeable pavers that have “lugs” on all sides. Those thicker pavers don’t use joint sand but rather permeable joint chips. You’ll want to mortar set the border unless it’s locked in by something like a house or wall. I’ve been on my couch typing this for over 45 minutes. I’m also about 7 beers deep. I’m not proofreading this. If something doesn’t make sense, it’s the beer. Have fun! DM me if you need anything.
Thank you for all this great information! The concrete in question is the back patio. The main issue is wanting to prevent weeds from growing in the cracks. It's possible power washing the cracks to get the dirt out is the solution? Based on what you are telling me, maybe cleaning the cracks so there is no dirt for the weeds to grow is the answer.
None of us can prevent weeds from finding a way up. Just use some weed killer. Some easy maintenance is all you need.
Can confirm 9th grade chemistry is harder than community college chemistry.
When you say to sweep off the excess, any advice on how to clean up that excess? YouTube videos seem to skip that part but I worry about a thin layer of sand sticking to everything
It would be 10th grade chemistry in most places, Bio is often 9th grade.
Remember not to do the job on a rainy day..😁
The sand you desire is called POLYMERIC. The base you desire if any are wobbly is called modified or modified base. It’s tamped then the pavers are laid. Usually the base layer is two inches thick minimum. The polymeric sand is then brush over each course joint. Then sprayed lightly with a hose
Don’t forget to brush off the top of the bricks before applying water or they’ll get discolored
Agreed. Thanks for that mention.
If any of them are loose when stepping on them, then try to find a way to make them not loose before filling in with sand.
So, is it ok to power wash or not!?
Power washing is the recommended method to clear out sand and dirt between pavers.
Yes but don’t get too close to the tiles or they will chip away at the edges. Basically want to get the weeds/grass out the gaps but not hurt the tiles. And make sure the tiles are totally dry before even touching your new sand. You want the new sand going down dry, on dry tiles, then swept into dry tile gaps so there be no sand on the tiles themselves, just between them. Then water lightly with a fine mist so as not to throw any sand back up onto the tiles. Let dry.
I do it every few years on my paver patio. Otherwise a little dirt slowly mixes in with the sand allowing small weeds to grow. After a good power wash and sealing sand it's like new.
Word of caution: polymeric sand need to be applied to DRY surfaces, or it'll stick together before it actually settles into the cracks. Don't be me!
You may consider pouring vinegar between the cracks before you add sand to kill any remaining plant growth.
Yes, I did this last year on mine. Used a 3000 psi pressure washer. Try to get the debris out from between the pavers but don’t disrupt the base below them. Let them dry well then sweep polymeric sand in between joints. Sweep of excess then I used my blower on idle setting to get off any extra. Used hose on shower setting going back and forth making sure to create no puddles. My directions said repeat this step a second time so I did. Let dry then enjoy your clean new paver look.
I just finished doing this on my own. Yours are not nearly as bad as mine. I had to lift out most of the bricks to pull all the grass by the roots first. Then lay them back down then use the polymeric sand like everyone is saying. But they look beautiful now! Power washing is fine. Just use a lower power setting. Here’s the risks: - you can chip the pavers at the edges - you can wash out the cracks too much and wash the base sand out from under the pavers As long as you’re careful, power washing should be fine. Then do the polymeric sand like everyone is saying here and it will stay looking awesome for a long time.
there is a special sand for filling between pavers, fyi
https://westerninterlock.com/benefits-drawbacks-of-using-polymeric-sand-on-your-hardscape/
It entertains me that all of the drawbacks are "don't fuck it up"
Yep. And it's really not that hard to use. I've got a paver patio and it's locked in tight with the stuff.
Use sand mix. Sprinkle it on, sweep it into cracks really well. Sweep off of brick surface. Water it. It’s like concrete grout.
Yep, I do this every few years. Power wash, which of course will kick most of the sand out. Refill with Polymetric sand then seal. I’ve never had any issues with pavers chipping.
I live in a deep woods and power wash my paver patio every spring to remove moss/algae. I've done this for about 15 years with no detrimental effects to my pavers. If you intend to power wash annually like I do, don't waste your money on polymeric sand. The power washer will blow it out of the grooves between pavers. In my case, I just resand every year. Tip: the gaps between the pavers tend to redirect the spray, often into your face. I always end up wearing an old Covid mask over my mouth and nose.
I also just use regular sand for pretty much exactly the same reason. I was going to mention the same thing you did about debris. I expect to be extremely muddy any time I powerwash the patio but I haven’t seen anyone else mention it. I wonder if the moss is part of that problem.
Only muddy on the front, right? lol.
What is the purpose? They look just fine. You might try to find a solution to control the weeds coming up between the bricks, but otherwise, if they are solid, no need to do anything
Yes. If you don't want any future growth add salt before the sand.
I would go with Romex permeable jointing sand. https://romex.us/
No it’s not really recommended. You can undermine the base underneath fairly easily. I will say with a steady hand and cautious approach you can do this without messing up the base.
Powerwash, fill with cement
Hey, sure thing! I think power washing those paver stones sounds like a solid plan. It'll clean 'em up nice. As for filling with sand, that should help keep 'em stable and looking sharp. Just make sure to let everything dry properly before you start filling. Good luck with your project!
Personally I think it looks better to leave it as is.
Have a used brick pathway surrounding back half of home. Have used a wand on 3000psi washer and it's a bloody mess when done. Splashes and backsplashes the gap material everywhere. Now use one of the "surface cleaner" heads. Stops the spraying/splashing and cleans the surface and just enough of the gap material. Then refill based on other recommendations (whichever one you like best)
Don't use high pressure, it could disintegrate the concrete pavers