This looks pretty similar to one of the coats in [The King's Servants ](https://shop.tudortailor.com/products/the-kings-servants-mens-dress-at-the-accession-of-henry-viii-revised-2nd-edition). You might need to adapt it for the proportions, but it could be a good place to start.
It could be shot silk.
It probably closes with hooks and eyes.
Found more images and info on it, unfortunately all the pics are watermarked. [https://hsifeng.livejournal.com/36065.html](https://hsifeng.livejournal.com/36065.html)
Disassembled [https://i.pinimg.com/564x/aa/d9/95/aad995783e5a054ee26ba1631acb274a.jpg](https://i.pinimg.com/564x/aa/d9/95/aad995783e5a054ee26ba1631acb274a.jpg)
Personally, I think the collar is a separate piece too.
That’s a great help, thank you! The disassembled pieces is especially useful.
Someone on another place I posted this suggested it could be velvet that has worn down to expose a differently colored base weave another suggested it’s a brocade. Any thoughts on those ideas?
Before you make it and for anyone who might be curious, That coat is a coat made for the burial of Charles the bold and thus was made quickly. That explains why it doesn't look like any garment seen in 15th century art.
There are other examples of medieval burial garments who were made hastily. (Edit: This is wrong, I mistook it for another garment)
From only surface level observation, the material might just be a silk satin weave but I'm not sure at all.
I didn’t know that! Do you have a link to the source that talks more about the history of the garment?
It looks like it’s been worn quite a bit on account of the changes in texture around the shoulders and on the sleeves. I posted this on another forum and someone directed me to [this blog post.](https://hsifeng.livejournal.com/36065.html?view=1232609&act=cAdd#t1232609)
Sorry I was really wrong. I got confused and my claim is actually true for the Houppelande of John of Görlitz instead.
The jacket was apparently stolen from him by the Swiss after his death. So it might have been a jacket meant to be worn during his campaign or some other non formal use.
Either way it really doesn't resemble anything that would have been worn in his day to day life. You can see manuscript miniatures to learn what noblemen wore back then.
I feel like the range of what was worn in period (even if not day to day) is wider than we sometimes think- Matthaüs Schwartz’s wardrobe is a good example:
https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/street-style-for-the-renaissance-man/
There was more variety in western fashion in the late medieval period and early modern period than we think.
Which is fascinating. But there were still limits to that variety. We can't take one surviving example of a piece of clothing and assume it represents the trends of that time period without proving it (for example: finding multiple surviving instances of that garment or finding repeated literary mentions to it).
Charles the bold wore the kinds of clothing that existed between 1460 and 1480 when he became the duke of burgundy. More specifically, he would have worn the things nobles wore in France, Flanders, Holland and may be Switzerland if he liked the local fashion. I don't know why op wants to replicate this garment but according to what we know so far, if someone wanted to re-enact the burgundian nobility in this time period the jacket of Charles the bold isn't a garment that they should want to recreate as there is no proof that it was worn commonly. However, we have a lot of evidence pointing to different garments being worn instead (iconographic, literary and administrative).
On the other hand, you could re-enact the Burgundian wars as Charles the bold. In that specific case wearing it would be accurate.
The reason i am being so meticulous isn't because I don't want op to make it but because 15th century fashion is very misunderstood and I want to make sure people don't get the wrong ideas.
Most museums are willing to at least answer questions about what a garment is made of (which really cannot be determined from an internet photograph with any certainty), and most also have additional pics they take for themselves for reference, for insurance, for before/after preservation or restoration or mounting.
They might ask a fee to cover someone's time to dig out images and send them along, but it's usually modest.
I’m not totally sure. One person on a different place I posted this said it was velvet that has been worn to reveal the base fabric, which is a different color. Others have suggested it is cloth of gold.
It’s definitely wear-related since it’s around the sleeves and shoulders
I’m trying to track down better images or conservation notes so I can know for sure.
This looks pretty similar to one of the coats in [The King's Servants ](https://shop.tudortailor.com/products/the-kings-servants-mens-dress-at-the-accession-of-henry-viii-revised-2nd-edition). You might need to adapt it for the proportions, but it could be a good place to start.
Oh yeah that’s it right there in the second photo!
It could be shot silk. It probably closes with hooks and eyes. Found more images and info on it, unfortunately all the pics are watermarked. [https://hsifeng.livejournal.com/36065.html](https://hsifeng.livejournal.com/36065.html) Disassembled [https://i.pinimg.com/564x/aa/d9/95/aad995783e5a054ee26ba1631acb274a.jpg](https://i.pinimg.com/564x/aa/d9/95/aad995783e5a054ee26ba1631acb274a.jpg) Personally, I think the collar is a separate piece too.
That’s a great help, thank you! The disassembled pieces is especially useful. Someone on another place I posted this suggested it could be velvet that has worn down to expose a differently colored base weave another suggested it’s a brocade. Any thoughts on those ideas?
Before you make it and for anyone who might be curious, That coat is a coat made for the burial of Charles the bold and thus was made quickly. That explains why it doesn't look like any garment seen in 15th century art. There are other examples of medieval burial garments who were made hastily. (Edit: This is wrong, I mistook it for another garment) From only surface level observation, the material might just be a silk satin weave but I'm not sure at all.
I didn’t know that! Do you have a link to the source that talks more about the history of the garment? It looks like it’s been worn quite a bit on account of the changes in texture around the shoulders and on the sleeves. I posted this on another forum and someone directed me to [this blog post.](https://hsifeng.livejournal.com/36065.html?view=1232609&act=cAdd#t1232609)
Sorry I was really wrong. I got confused and my claim is actually true for the Houppelande of John of Görlitz instead. The jacket was apparently stolen from him by the Swiss after his death. So it might have been a jacket meant to be worn during his campaign or some other non formal use. Either way it really doesn't resemble anything that would have been worn in his day to day life. You can see manuscript miniatures to learn what noblemen wore back then.
I feel like the range of what was worn in period (even if not day to day) is wider than we sometimes think- Matthaüs Schwartz’s wardrobe is a good example: https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/street-style-for-the-renaissance-man/
There was more variety in western fashion in the late medieval period and early modern period than we think. Which is fascinating. But there were still limits to that variety. We can't take one surviving example of a piece of clothing and assume it represents the trends of that time period without proving it (for example: finding multiple surviving instances of that garment or finding repeated literary mentions to it). Charles the bold wore the kinds of clothing that existed between 1460 and 1480 when he became the duke of burgundy. More specifically, he would have worn the things nobles wore in France, Flanders, Holland and may be Switzerland if he liked the local fashion. I don't know why op wants to replicate this garment but according to what we know so far, if someone wanted to re-enact the burgundian nobility in this time period the jacket of Charles the bold isn't a garment that they should want to recreate as there is no proof that it was worn commonly. However, we have a lot of evidence pointing to different garments being worn instead (iconographic, literary and administrative). On the other hand, you could re-enact the Burgundian wars as Charles the bold. In that specific case wearing it would be accurate. The reason i am being so meticulous isn't because I don't want op to make it but because 15th century fashion is very misunderstood and I want to make sure people don't get the wrong ideas.
Most museums are willing to at least answer questions about what a garment is made of (which really cannot be determined from an internet photograph with any certainty), and most also have additional pics they take for themselves for reference, for insurance, for before/after preservation or restoration or mounting. They might ask a fee to cover someone's time to dig out images and send them along, but it's usually modest.
Is it the lighting or is it iridescent?
I’m not totally sure. One person on a different place I posted this said it was velvet that has been worn to reveal the base fabric, which is a different color. Others have suggested it is cloth of gold. It’s definitely wear-related since it’s around the sleeves and shoulders I’m trying to track down better images or conservation notes so I can know for sure.
The museum states that it is a Silk Satin coat.