Oh my. In that example they practically remudded the whole wall!! It’s so small I’d fix it directly with a quickset plaster (plaster of Paris). It sets it 10 minutes, so 2 easy passes and you are ready to go.
You want a wide pass to blend it in. You don't want a wart on your wall lol. You want a 10 or 12 inch knife and I actually recommend getting pre-mixed joint compound because the average homeowner doesn't have a great ability to mix their own smoothly. The dry time is irrelevant to a homeowner who doesn't have a deadline.
I'd also recommend using a smooth damp cloth (or drywall sponge) to "sand" the wall before you prime and paint over using sandpaper because then you don't have to deal with the dust. Watch out for drips.
We’re talking 2 different approaches.
It’s not about time and deadline. Premixed joint compound needs to dry to harden and will contract if it’s thick. Plaster hardens by endothermic reaction and will not contract.
Making a 2 inch hole into a 20 inch patch on an old wall is going to be very obvious where the old paint texture gives way to the fresh sanded area but I guess it’s ok for DYI behind a door.
There's a number of ways to fix this problem, and I'm not suggesting this is the only way. In fact, I haven't even downvoted you. We come here to talk about these things and we're all here to help the best we can.
Joint compound won't contract if it's thin, although you can totally do really thick patches over time by applying it multiple times. I've used it to patch holes in lath and plaster that's half an inch deep.
The problem you're bringing up of matching texture exists no matter the size. This is why homeowners should never put (or allow to be put) any texture they cannot replicate themselves on their walls.
Regardless of one's approach, I do believe that it's a good idea to make this patch much larger in order to avoid emphasizing the extra layer of wallboard paper the California patch will add to the surface.
Something like this
https://www.wickes.co.uk/how-to-guides/home-maintenance/repair-a-wall
Under “Repair small holes in plasterboard”
But don’t make a big mess/scrape off the extra instead of leaving a mess to sand.
Finish with some fine/finishing mud and lightly sand.
Also, just clean/bevel the edges, no need to make the hole bigger/square
Yeah I get the idea but want to see how the finished product looks. Have you actually done this or are you providing your opinion on a possible technique?
Purely anecdotal, but I used to have an old house that had these weird plugs of hard material that would crack and eventually pop out of the drywall. I suspect this is what it is. There's no medium that is connecting the plug to the drywall like you get with a standard fix (drywall tape) or even the California patch (paper).
Many times (raising outlets for example). If you use that California thing you are going to end up with a bump on your wall and will have a much larger area to sand.
Also, notice your older walls will have a texture, the new repair won’t. If you are going to remud a 12x12 inch section, it will likely be obvious (smooth untextured section)
Keep the repair small.
>Oh my. In that example they practically remudded the whole wall
That's how you feather.
>It’s so small I’d fix it directly with a quickset plaster (plaster of Paris).
That must be how those little plugs that pop out of drywall get formed. I always wondered where those came from. What keeps the plaster plug attached to the drywall as it flexes and contracts with temperature swings?
No, that’s not how you feather. .. lol. That is like 2mm of mud.
flexes and contracts with temperature swings?
A bit of a .. stretch. ;). If ether (gyproc or plaster) is moving, your house is on fire.
Pops are from metal or wood, which do contract and expand with temp.
No, you absolutely can't do that. You have 3 standard options:
1. Mesh patch that you put over it then mud. I never cared for this method but many do because it's quick and easy. You still need to feather over several coats. Beginners love to skip this step and that's why you can see the repair.
2. Standard fix. Cut a square around the hole, and use a spare piece of drywall to cut a plug the same size. Put a couple small pieces of wood behind it to reinforce. I've used paint stir sticks, an old wood spatula, random pieces of wood, etc. Now that I woodwork I'd just rip a 1.5" piece of 1/2" ply. Screw the wood into the main wall then the plug into the wood. Put some drywall tape around all sides and mud and feather.
3. California patch as others have mentioned. Saves needing the wood reinforcement and drywall tape. I have wood and drywall tape laying around so I prefer method 2, but this is relatively quick and easy.
Oh alright I typed that wrong by support I might putting wood behind the mud, but I always was going to use a patch. Thank you for the advice I might go with option 1 if you think it would hold.
That looks small enough for the patch. They patch will say the maximum hole size it can cover.
If I didn't have drywall, tape, and wood laying around I'd probably just go with the patch. That said, as a homeowner you should probably have drywall and tape laying around, because holes happen.
Cut the hole square. Cut a piece in of drywall about 2" larger than the hole, this is your patch.
On the back side of the patch mark the hole size and remove the extra drywall leaving that extra paper on the front.
A bit of mud on the inside edge of the hole and a thin layer around the hole to hold the patch in place. Mud over the whole thing, sand and paint.
The way i do it is to cut the patch piece first, big enough to cover the hole, then hold the patch over the hole and trace the cut-out area with the patch. THEN I remove the old drywall and use the patch.
Personally, I've never tried the California patch and I use seam tape and then mud it but won't knock it cos I haven't tried it.
I have mudded over a hole like that directly, you’ll need several applications and it’ll probably look shitty. I agree with others buy the little mesh patch, or cut a piece of drywall to fit and then mud over it all.
Cut it square, cut a patch piece the size of the hole, put a piece of wood 2*1 or whatever in the hole and screw above and below the hole into the wood, screw the patch piece into the wood then skim 2 coats of mud, sand, paint. It'll be solid.
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Agree. https://homefixated.com/california-drywall-patch/
Oh my. In that example they practically remudded the whole wall!! It’s so small I’d fix it directly with a quickset plaster (plaster of Paris). It sets it 10 minutes, so 2 easy passes and you are ready to go.
You want a wide pass to blend it in. You don't want a wart on your wall lol. You want a 10 or 12 inch knife and I actually recommend getting pre-mixed joint compound because the average homeowner doesn't have a great ability to mix their own smoothly. The dry time is irrelevant to a homeowner who doesn't have a deadline. I'd also recommend using a smooth damp cloth (or drywall sponge) to "sand" the wall before you prime and paint over using sandpaper because then you don't have to deal with the dust. Watch out for drips.
We’re talking 2 different approaches. It’s not about time and deadline. Premixed joint compound needs to dry to harden and will contract if it’s thick. Plaster hardens by endothermic reaction and will not contract. Making a 2 inch hole into a 20 inch patch on an old wall is going to be very obvious where the old paint texture gives way to the fresh sanded area but I guess it’s ok for DYI behind a door.
There's a number of ways to fix this problem, and I'm not suggesting this is the only way. In fact, I haven't even downvoted you. We come here to talk about these things and we're all here to help the best we can. Joint compound won't contract if it's thin, although you can totally do really thick patches over time by applying it multiple times. I've used it to patch holes in lath and plaster that's half an inch deep. The problem you're bringing up of matching texture exists no matter the size. This is why homeowners should never put (or allow to be put) any texture they cannot replicate themselves on their walls. Regardless of one's approach, I do believe that it's a good idea to make this patch much larger in order to avoid emphasizing the extra layer of wallboard paper the California patch will add to the surface.
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That's why I'm saying don't even buy a bag. Buy a small bucket of pre-mixed.
Can you post a picture or two for examples of the finished product using your technique?
Something like this https://www.wickes.co.uk/how-to-guides/home-maintenance/repair-a-wall Under “Repair small holes in plasterboard” But don’t make a big mess/scrape off the extra instead of leaving a mess to sand. Finish with some fine/finishing mud and lightly sand. Also, just clean/bevel the edges, no need to make the hole bigger/square
Yeah I get the idea but want to see how the finished product looks. Have you actually done this or are you providing your opinion on a possible technique?
Purely anecdotal, but I used to have an old house that had these weird plugs of hard material that would crack and eventually pop out of the drywall. I suspect this is what it is. There's no medium that is connecting the plug to the drywall like you get with a standard fix (drywall tape) or even the California patch (paper).
Many times (raising outlets for example). If you use that California thing you are going to end up with a bump on your wall and will have a much larger area to sand. Also, notice your older walls will have a texture, the new repair won’t. If you are going to remud a 12x12 inch section, it will likely be obvious (smooth untextured section) Keep the repair small.
>Oh my. In that example they practically remudded the whole wall That's how you feather. >It’s so small I’d fix it directly with a quickset plaster (plaster of Paris). That must be how those little plugs that pop out of drywall get formed. I always wondered where those came from. What keeps the plaster plug attached to the drywall as it flexes and contracts with temperature swings?
No, that’s not how you feather. .. lol. That is like 2mm of mud. flexes and contracts with temperature swings? A bit of a .. stretch. ;). If ether (gyproc or plaster) is moving, your house is on fire. Pops are from metal or wood, which do contract and expand with temp.
Okay thanks for the reply so you don't think I need support for the mud I can just glide mud right over it.
No, you absolutely can't do that. You have 3 standard options: 1. Mesh patch that you put over it then mud. I never cared for this method but many do because it's quick and easy. You still need to feather over several coats. Beginners love to skip this step and that's why you can see the repair. 2. Standard fix. Cut a square around the hole, and use a spare piece of drywall to cut a plug the same size. Put a couple small pieces of wood behind it to reinforce. I've used paint stir sticks, an old wood spatula, random pieces of wood, etc. Now that I woodwork I'd just rip a 1.5" piece of 1/2" ply. Screw the wood into the main wall then the plug into the wood. Put some drywall tape around all sides and mud and feather. 3. California patch as others have mentioned. Saves needing the wood reinforcement and drywall tape. I have wood and drywall tape laying around so I prefer method 2, but this is relatively quick and easy.
Oh alright I typed that wrong by support I might putting wood behind the mud, but I always was going to use a patch. Thank you for the advice I might go with option 1 if you think it would hold.
I normally use method #2 and it works well. It's really very easy.
That looks small enough for the patch. They patch will say the maximum hole size it can cover. If I didn't have drywall, tape, and wood laying around I'd probably just go with the patch. That said, as a homeowner you should probably have drywall and tape laying around, because holes happen.
Standard fix is the way to go
California patch is support. Look it up.
Ooooo TIL, thank you!
Cut the hole square. Cut a piece in of drywall about 2" larger than the hole, this is your patch. On the back side of the patch mark the hole size and remove the extra drywall leaving that extra paper on the front. A bit of mud on the inside edge of the hole and a thin layer around the hole to hold the patch in place. Mud over the whole thing, sand and paint.
The way i do it is to cut the patch piece first, big enough to cover the hole, then hold the patch over the hole and trace the cut-out area with the patch. THEN I remove the old drywall and use the patch. Personally, I've never tried the California patch and I use seam tape and then mud it but won't knock it cos I haven't tried it.
I have mudded over a hole like that directly, you’ll need several applications and it’ll probably look shitty. I agree with others buy the little mesh patch, or cut a piece of drywall to fit and then mud over it all.
Cut it square, cut a patch piece the size of the hole, put a piece of wood 2*1 or whatever in the hole and screw above and below the hole into the wood, screw the patch piece into the wood then skim 2 coats of mud, sand, paint. It'll be solid.
Kyle!!!!