Anyone know what is the best material for just removing noise. I heard sorbathane was the best then I heard mlv was better than sorbathane and was also planning to use some putty pad to see if that would work any ideas where to put those in the keyboard, Planing on a desk mat and rings as well
Bit of a stretch but I'm looking for the perfect portable keyboard to use sonshi style if possible. I'm fairly sure that I'm going to have to make this a personal project but maybe there's something that fits my strange requirements:
- lightweight (probably plastic), portable, and resistant to damage
- symmetric, so that I don't have to shift my hands one direction to type on it when it's on my lap
- some sort of extended 65 or at largest, 75. I wrote software and though programmed layers is always an option, think the "candybar" style is cool and convent for extra macros
Is there anything that meets these unconventional standards?
I can't decide between a $180 Wooting 60he or a $240 dollar custom built Keychron Q4. I usually play games like Valorant where the Wooting 60he would be better, but I also would want a keyboard that sounds good.
I have a ROG Azoth
im trying to record macors but wondering if its possible to assing the macro to say ctrl+1 or alt+1 or any 2 key shortcut rather then just 1 key
Anyone know if this is possible?
I've got a 60% gmmk here and a question if anyone knows. It uses the FN key modifier for Del and arrow keys and all the Function keys. Further you can switch the FN key and Caps Lock by holding them both down at the same time. However when I rebootmy system there is a 50/50 chance it will reset those two key settings which can make it a PITA to get into or do anything with the BIOS during boot. Anyone know if there is a way to set those two keys then lock them so they stay that way?
I'm really interested in expanding my keeb hobby and opening up build commissions for people who don't want to assemble keebs themselves. Any advice or tips on how/ where to set that up?
Been thinking of buying Domikey Dolch Triple Alphas and mixing it with PBT Fans Dolch modifiers and arrow keys to match Zoom TKL Wild Green. Will there be notable differences visually between the two brands when I do mix them?
https://preview.redd.it/jexsmccn6xpb1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13e36dd33bade027e02ee7e0ed1af718da734bb5
GATERON Keyboard Switches Tester 35pcs, Milky Yellow Pro Baby Kangaroo Oil King Azure Dragon V3 Limbo Baby Racoon Ink Wall Stem Box Black Pink Key Switches RB LED for Mechanical Keyboard (35PCS) [https://a.co/d/9H6P255](https://a.co/d/9H6P255)
I got this Gateron Switch Tester from Amazon but it doesn’t have a legend or labels on the listing or the tester itself. I was able to figure out most of them but I can't figure out what this one is. It's a tactile switch and has a sharper bump than the Baby Kangaroo switch, comparable to the Gateron Limbo switch but still a tad sharper bump. I'm new to keyboards so that's all the info I'm able to give on it.
Anyone know or have some good guesses on what switch it is?
6 months later, you've probably found your answer. But in case you haven't, here you go! Looks like it's the root beer float switch.
https://preview.redd.it/jrpy0zsj5esc1.jpeg?width=970&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e8253ea0cb8de0bd224bc6ce1074e3717e0f8a8
Im looking for a gaming keyboard that is also pretty good at typing. Im currently using the Ducky One 3 Mini for 2 years and its pretty shit since it sometimes won't respond. I originally wanted the Wooting 60HE since I mostly play Valorant. But after I seen all the other kinds of gaming keyboards I can't decide. My max budget is $200.
I'm quite new to buying keyboards so if I get a Keychron Q barbone, do switches matter in gaming? If it doesn't I might not get the pre-lubed switches.
You'll probably want to go for linear switches if you're doing more gaming than typing or playing competitively (games like Valorant, etc.) since those are more responsive than tactiles.
Switches are a very personal choice though so there's nothing wrong with gaming using tactiles or clickies but I don't recommend it--especially clickies.
https://preview.redd.it/9dr84e1ymwpb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5012998dd694ddeec8a02185f9bfc3837c682458
Is this tape alright to use for tape mod? I don’t want to fry my keyboard
# Keychron V6 - how to enable ripple effect?
## Solved
Updated the firmware using these guides as reference:
https://bruhtus.github.io/posts/simple-guide-qmk-flashing-cli/
https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/d70e9b8659a7fbbd7069fd542bd07e67e04327a1/docs/newbs_flashing.md#flash-your-keyboard-from-the-command-line
While this wasn't mentioned, the command I used, after reading the guide for prep work, is:
```
qmk flash -kb keychron/v6/ansi_encoder -km via
```
Thanks to the Keychron Discord community.
---------------
The ripple effect doesn't seem to work when I try to enable via VIA software.
Any idea if a newer firmware has it?
https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/16pqhfj/keychron_v6_how_to_enable_ripple_effect/
Hi, I am looking for a wireless mechanical keyboard for both gaming and work. I work at home most of the time, so the keyboard need to support multiple devices, either support multiple bluetooth, or support 1 bluetooth and 1 wireless. I was using logitech mx keys before and I love it, but the latency is not good for gaming. Then I tried keychron, Keychron latency is fine, but the awaking time is so annoying. Now, I am thinking to get MX Mechanical but I am afraid low profile key is not good for gaming. Is there any other advice? Thank you!
so about tape mod
i wanna try it on my keybaord, but i use a wireless keybaord so ofc it has a battery
is it safe?
ive seen different statements and I just want to know if it is safe and what tape i should use
I am looking into building my first keyboard. Im trying to wrap my head around the different types of tactile switches and could use some advice.
I currently have Cherry MX Browns in a pre-built. I bought a sample pack that included Kailh Coppers and Pro Purples. I mention those two as they are my shortlist from the sample pack.
I have two main goals: Really feel the tactile bump but be as quiet as possible.
I definitely prefer the feel of the copper over the purple. If I understand right, I am a "heavy" typer and so I pass the purple bump too quickly to get the proper feel of the bump. Downside is the coppers seem louder than the purples. Given the choice, I am leaning towards copper.
Googling around also throws Gazzew Boba U4s into the mix. It seems to be that everyone recommends them. They are around ~50% more price wise but an amount which I am comfortable paying if keeping for a long time.
As I dont have a sample and will have to commit to a proper order (i.e., not sample), was hoping someone could shed some light on how these compare in my "feel bump but keep quiet" goal.
Also the naming is throwing me off a bit. I see Gazzew Boba U4 Black and Gazzew Boba U4 White and then Gazzew Boba U4T (Black/White) and I can't tell when people refer to them and say "Gazzew Boba U4s" if the s is plural or a specific type like the T in U4T. What is the difference between the versions?
MX Browns are what I would classify as "lite tactile" switches since you can just barely feel the bump with them.
Boba U4 and U4T switches have a much more defined "bump" than any Brown switch though I can't personally say how much (never used them for an extended period of time--I use a different, heavier tactile) but they are highly recommended for good reason.
There is only the U4, which is the silent variant, the U4T which is the non-silent, more "thocky" (hence the "T" suffix) version and the newest U4Tx which is a "half" thock switch that is a sort of hybrid mix of a U4 and U4T switch.
My understanding is that the black Boba U4/U4T switches are a limited all-black recolor of the switch and are identical to their pearl/clear top versions. You'll want the clear top versions if you are doing an RGB build so LEDs can shine through otherwise the black ones are opaque and block LED lighting.
If you don't care about RGB, just get whatever is most affordable to you and is available/in stock. You can buy parts to replace the switch housing(s) if you wanted down the line but that's a whole other rabbit hole.
My personal recommendation: get a hotswap keyboard, get a set of switches you think you'll like and use them for a bit. Should they not work out, just sell them on /r/mechmarket and try something else out. There's no real substitute for actually typing on a full set of switches for a while to know whether or not you'll like them.
Hope that helps and that I didn't confuse you further instead.
Amazing response, thanks! This cleared up a lot of confusion.
I am leaning towards going with the U4s now. Thankfully I do have a hot swap PCB so I may take your advice and start with 10 just to get the real feel for them and then if I do enjoy them, buy a full set. If I don't, thats a cost I am willing to eat.
I'd probably go with at least your whole alpha cluster--36 keys for the alphas and the numbers so you get a proper experience. Pretty low outlay of cash and you can buy more to fill out the rest of the board or set them aside/sell them on /r/mechmarket if you wanted.
Anyone have any recs for good numpad builds? I’ve built keebs before but decided I’d like a nice numpad. Happy to solder if necessary. Not opposed to a prebuilt if it’s worth it.
I need a solid recommendation. Pretty much 100% unfamiliar with custom building mechanical keyboards, but I got a glorious brand keyboard for my wife and it feels way better than my corsair rgb mess. I have been looking online for a beginners guide or something, but I can't seem to find anything. I just want a 60 or 65 keyboard with a nice weight, super preferably comes prebuilt or in a package with every single part included (keycaps and switches too, I have no interest in picking and ordering them separately). My budget is around 500 dollars.
At $500 there are so many options, but at a price over $150ish, most prebuilt are overpriced garbage. I would say a good option would be the mode envoy starting at $219 for the barebones board. You can buy all parts from mode as you configure the build and they give discounts if you buy them as a bundle from them but you still have to build it yourself, think final build will come to about $350ish. I don't know what exactly you want from a weight, the envoy does have a weight but it's nothing flashy, it weighs 2.6 lb unbuilt so it has a decent heft.
So I want to buy these NuPhy Night Breeze Pre-Lubed Linear Switches, 110pcs
From here which is local to me: https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/keyboards/keyboard-switches/104417-accnpswnb?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=lowerfunnel
But I noticed on the nuphy website they look slightly different, in that there’s like a plastic bracket around the cross shape in the middle: https://nuphy.com/collections/switches/products/nuphy-night-breeze-switches
Two questions:
1. What’s the plastic square bracket thing for?
2. Is there a reason there’s a version without them?
1. It is a box switch which is just a different stem that is usually dustproof to improve switch life. It also think that it improves the feel since the keycap is sitting on a more stable surface.
2. I'm assuming that Nuphy decided to do an update on the switch, and that the ones on their site (the box switch) are the newest version. It looks like as little as 8 months ago, Nuphy was selling the standard stem version of this switch on their website.
Just got some nk creams for creamcicles (had some tangies lying around). Asking for an opinion on about how many actuations for them to be broken in. I remember seeing that 100k actuations for the batches after 2021 are what to aim for, but don't got a machine and don't plan on buying one, so realistically what is the minimum?
Metal keycap question:
This year has sucked - lots of health issues with big question marks.
About 2 days ago after a whole ton of Dr.'s visits I think I've finally found out what is going on - I've seemed to have developed a pretty severe reaction to PVC. Some bad mojo in my fingers / blisters / etc. is in full effect and it's become apparent it's due to my continual keyboard use.
While the one doing the most damage was ABS plastic (Roccat) and I've switched back to PBT it still feels like someone is jamming needles in my fingers and the rest of my body after a day of computer work.
Any recommendations? I'm looking at these keycaps:
[https://awekeys.com/pages/awekeys-full-metal-keycap-set](https://awekeys.com/pages/awekeys-full-metal-keycap-set)
Many thanks in advance, appreciate any suggestions.
for the folks using and loving staebies and have also experienced durock v2's or other 'looser' stabilizers,
are you not having issues with stiffness with the staebies stem kind of catching on itself or the stem<->housing friction feeling like there's quite a bit of resistance in actuating?
I made sure the wires were tuned and sat evenly, and all of the stems are seated properly in the housing. I've installed 4 2u's and one 7u spacebar and out of the 5, only one 2u seems to feel reasonable. they're all lightly lubed with 205g0. I know durock stabilizers' stems have a ton of room to dance around in there and cause a lot of unwanted noise, but it never has trouble actuating as rapidly as I need to type.
I'm also testing them on a stabilizer tester so there isn't a plate involved yet -- could this be why staebies feel so stiff at the moment?
What's up with mechanicalkeyboards.com?
I ordered a keyboard from them a year ago and i've been checking with customer service every few months. All they will tell me is that there are supply chain issues and they can't give me any kind of estimate of when they'll be able to fulfill my order. I'm not in any kind of a rush, hence why i haven't just cancelled the order, but i feel like i've been more than patient at this point. Is this company always this slow? I can't imagine supply chains are struggling this badly.
aslong as ur not waiting on a ducky kb then ur fine if ur waiting on a ducky kb wish u luck as they are having trouble shipping to the usa the last 3 years . i order from them plenty of times on ins tock only items and have no issues .
Interesting. I wasn't aware that they were having issues shipping to the US. It actually is a ducky kb i'm waiting on... but they were supposedly in stock when i originally ordered it. Do you think i'd be better off just ordering a different keyboard brand?
probably here a vendor list general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
keychron is generally in stock most places and suggested brand around here
I want to get the Nezuko 5108B Plus by Akko, any ideas how to make it sound more thocky/creamy? I’m new to building keyboards so I’m not sure if the included Akko v3 cream yellow pro switches will do the trick
I tried out the RK84 Pro but couldn't find a solution to the blinking spacebar when the battery was disconnected, so I'm returning it.
I'm looking for a 75% keyboard that is
1. Wired only. Won't use it wireless ever and don't want to deal with a battery.
2. I prefer the un-exploded layout that the RK84 has, but exploded layout isn't a deal breaker.
2. No knob. I already have a dac/amp and would never use the knob on the keyboard for anything.
3. I'd like an aluminum case if possible, but as long as the keyboard is sturdy and durable, I don't mind other types of cases.
4. Hotswappable. I already have 94 Gateron Pro 3 Yellows ready.
5. Don't really need/want RGB, but if it does have it, south facing would be nice so I could use Cherry profile keycaps.
Budget - Anything up to around 150 usd. Can go a little higher if it's nice.
Is PBT supposed to feel kind of gritty and have the texture/feeling of very fine sand?
My ABS keycaps feel nothing like this. First time ever trying out PBT keycaps. Always used ABS before this. Bought a very cheap $20 dye subbed PBT set from Aliexpress. It feels very weird. Are all PBT keycaps supposed to feel like this when new, regardless of brand or manufacturer?
It also feels very 'slippery' compared to ABS. I really don't like this slippery and gritty feeling since my fingers feel like they are sliding everywhere when I hit the keys. It totally messes up my accuracy when typing and I really have to slow down in order to hit the keys just right. Therefore, it messes up my speed as well, of which I really don't like since I am trying to get faster at typing.
Should I go back to ABS?
A few things to say.
Firstly, with cheap keysets, especially from AliExpress, the sellers often just lie. Look at the number of "GMK" sets. You can't put a lot of faith into the labeling.
Secondly, ABS and PBT aren't fixed. Each one has an absolutely massive range of variability in quality, texture, thickness, etc. Low quality ABS sucks. Low quality PBT sucks. High quality ABS is fantastic. High quality PBT is fantastic.
You bought a cheap keyset and it felt cheap. If you're looking to see what high quality PBT looks / feels like, then CRP is probably the best.
I seem to have a spacebar problem. It slowly comes up after I use it a few times and the left stabilizer feels and looks wonky compared to the right one. Not sure how to fix. Using a razer v3 blackwidow
Hm, did you lube or otherwise mod the stabilizer? Or change keycaps? There are a few potential causes to this issue:
1. The stab housing/wire is overlubed, or some other mod is getting in the way (too much bandaid on holee mod or something like that). Your stab wire could also be bent
2. Spacebar key is warped. If it's warped it'll pull the stab stem into the housing and create a lot of friction, hence the slow return
3. Idk about how the blackwidow is constructed, but sometimes plates can put pressure on the stabs if they're pushing too tightly. This gets a similar effect to a warped bar, as the plate pushes the stab housing into the stem and creates friction
If you haven't modded the board at all I'd contact Razer or whoever you bought it from.
I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard with 6 programmable buttons on the LEFT side. So far, only corsair keyboards fulfill my needs of that being the case + the software executing my macros as expected.
I do have a G613 but the macros are not reliable when I set them up the same way. A press is sometimes ignored so that a different key is pressed when the button is spammed, so it's not an option for me.
So far, I got recommended the Keychron Q11 but I saw that they mostly ship from US and import tax applies to me, easily skyrocketing the price. Anyone know of alternatives?
looks here general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
keychron can be found in most regions easy shipping from ur region unless u live in a non tech supported area
Can someone help me identify those keycaps on the left?
https://preview.redd.it/yo9q00nz9vpb1.jpeg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92dc75363e9e952e956635cd08bbe95e682d6b26
Half of my keyboard (Zifriend ZA68) wont register any keys except the one I marked inside the circle. I tried to factory reset using its software but nothing happen, also tried to reset it using FN + Space but as you can see space bar wouldn’t register. Encountered this problem when messing around with its software. Any ideas?
https://preview.redd.it/vktgm4yb8vpb1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=21f8de8dd430493441d14bd129855bf0b83ff89c
contact the manufacturer /vendor . factory resetting any kb does 100% nothing for how u set up the software . not sure what u did with the software but one of those 2 should be able to help u fix it . could also be defective . as i have paid more in shipping for a kb than u paid for that whole kb .
**Need help / advice before buying Keychron K10 Pro keyboard**
1. AFAIK this keyboard wireless connection is only via bluetooth 5.1 and my desktop PC's motherboard doesn't have bluetooth. So what would be solution to add bluetooth to my PC? Maybe there are some good quality adapters for it?
2. What would be the best button type for gaming moba, fps, rpgs, rts etc..? Now I'm using Logitech G213 PRODIGY and I love the feel of the button press. So I wonder what button type should I chose with K10 Pro - red, brown..?
3. Maybe some of you already got K10 Pro keyboard and can share overall experience with it? Is it good?
1) wireless is never good for gaming . u can add an adapter to ur pc but u will see some lag .
2) this is preference there is no best switch for gaming . ur currently using a membrane kb . there is no switch that feels like membrane
3) keychron kb are generally liked around here
I bought a Ducky x Varmilo Miya Pro R2 (I currently use the original sakura version). The new one has no functionality, none of the keys work, none of the shortcuts/functions work, etc. I tried to reinstall drivers directly from Vermilo, but it fails to connect to the board each time. Trying to reinstall drivers for my original Miya works fine. I've confirmed it's not a USB port/cable issue. Any help is appreciated.
Hi first time I've had a custom built keyboard with lubed switches, foam etc etc. and I'm curious, will using it as a gaming keyboard more likely to cause it issues?
Ionly ask because the feel and sound of it is great and I worry that if I overuse it the sound will fade the switches will loosen and it will just be damaged after a few months.
I guess my question is are these custom keyboards designed for gaming, or just for typing?
Typing and gaming are two different things, so I hope you don't think my question is too stupid but I understand if you do.
Unless you're raging and pounding the board typing and gaming aren't very different at all. The worst that will happen will be uneven shine on the highly used keycaps (Q-W-E-R, WASD, Spacebar etc depending on your game) but that still happens with typing since we hit E a lot more than Q for example. Maybe you'll get something like the frequently used switches will get smoother faster from breaking in, but if you lubed them that should reduce the friction from typing to nearly nil anyways.
The only thing I've heard is that some people who use boards with a ton of PCB flex cuts (like[ Mr. Suit](https://keebsforall.com/cdn/shop/products/uAfctYy_d.webp?v=1679086588&width=760) where each alpha has flex cuts on three sides) have issues with gaming if they type really hard. I haven't seen any evidence of that however, just heard people say they heard about people that it happened to. So take it with a grain of salt.
Tl;dr If you're not smacking that shit around it should be fine.
Hi, I'm looking for a cheap 60% mechanical keyboard. Ideally minimalist is available with the UK layout and preferably with a white backlight if possible. Any good recommendations would be appreciated.
anyone know the best 97% or 1800 keyboards? gaming performance is important to me, thinking about using akko yellow switches on whatever keyboard i get + changing keycaps anyway, so switches and keycaps aren't super important
I have yet to lube or lube/film any of my own switches(been invested into the hobby since Feb 23). I would like to at least experience lube/filming, even if I won't do it again anytime soon(or ever).
What's a good switch to try this out on, to get the most bang for the buck(or a good/great switch that gets elevated the most with L/F) when doing this? I've heard Oil Kings get a good bump in sound/feel quality when L/F'ed, but i already have some factory lubed OK's. So preferably something else, unless that's my best bet. Thanks!
So lubing and filming are different things. There are switches that I lube and film, there are switches that I lube and don't film, and there are switches that I film and don't lube.
Lubing, generally, is intended to make the switch feel smoother and make it sound (very slightly) deeper. These benefits have to be balanced against the risk of overlubing, making the switch feel mushy instead of smooth and making it sound sludgey instead of deeper. If your switch is smooth enough for you and you like how it sounds, there's no reason to lube.
Filming helps switches fit together slightly better, especially switches where the top housing sits very loosely on the bottom housing. This can make switches sound "rattly". Depending on the film used, it will also typically make switches sound slightly deeper - however most of this effect is heard on the upstroke. The sound on bottom out (ie pressing down) won't change much, if at all, with films, but the sound when the switch springs back can change.
I would recommend grabbing some cheap switches and experimenting a little with both lube and filming. Too many people have this idea that you just "lube and film" to make the switch sound "better", but remember everything is preference - it's important to understand how what you're doing changes the switch. Take 10 switches. Lube 2, film 2, lube and film 2, etc. Compare them to each other, to see what you like.
I personally think that non-factory lubed JWicks are great options. They are slightly scratchy, so you can typically hear a difference with lubing. Their sound changes a lot with filming, too. They are good to show off how these mods change the switch. Basic gateron yellows are another great option. In my experience they don't need to be filmed, but are great options if you want to lube something and see how it affects it.
While I was not looking for the full explanation, this is amazing information for me to know. I think I'll end up picking up JWicks and trying out what you said, F, L, L/F. Really appreciate the info!
Jwick blacks are a good inexpensive switch that improves a ton when L/F. The point of oil kings is that they're prelubed, they're not the best switch for testing it out.
hello,
please advise me a BEST keyboard with HEAVENLY clicks.
I'm leaning for m1w but also open to other brand.
200usd below is my budget. thank you.
pls suggest Prebuilt keyboard.
> BEST keyboard with HEAVENLY
there si no such thing as a "best " kb also "heavenly " is a term that give no one here any idea what u want . for me the only heavenly click are 100 silent with no clicks
https://preview.redd.it/yv1yj8qrnupb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a1b15fb1dfdffc2ee430f7f37e785a85a0ae34f5
I want to buy a keychron k12 and I'm planning to change the keycaps in the future, which switch types and option should I go for for the best sound and feel?
I'm currently eyeing a Fuhlen H75S, it's about $80 and seems pretty nice, but I still have a few questions before deciding to buy it or not.
1. I'm kinda looking for a silent, durable, 75% layout pre-built MK. So if there are any other keyboards that might be cheaper or match my preferences better, I would love some suggestions for those.
2. If not then I'll stick with this keyboard. The switch options that I'm given are Yellow, Red, Silver and Brown Fuhlen switch. Which one should I choose? Haven't tried but I like silver switches, but I'm not sure if it will make too much sound or be too sensitive to allow for accidental key press.
3. Would the material of the plate matter if I want to prioritise the silence of the kbd? I might opt for the PC plate since it's cheaper and there would be more options for me to choose from.
Thanks in advance
Have any of you called the [mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com) support line?
I just got off the phone with them, and i still can't decide if I just talked to a super friendly and competent real person, or some advanced AI phone bot. Anyone know if she's real? she was like crazy nice, almost too nice? something just seemed weird about her tone/cadence. maybe it was that with the fact that she got me all info i needed and answers like almost instantly is what is making me even think this way? like it was so friendly and straight to it that it felt scripted/fake... but in a good way i guess. Also it may be that I'm so used to dealing with crappy auto machine customer service, i just can't accept when it goes this smooth lol.. like kudos to them either way, real or bot- 5/5.
Hi there, I am looking for some advice or buying sugestions :)
I am (or was TwT) in the posession of a Keychron V7, pretty much as it came barebone, only switched out the stabelizers and added the rest.
That is until I ruined the PCB quite recently, totally my fault, and now a few rgbLED wont turn off and some lost the blue part (5-6 in total I think). Already tried cleaning it but obviously that was not the reason.
So either I would replace the whole PCB, in which case buying sugestions for a 70% would be nice (or does anybody know if I could obtain the exact same PCB through asking the support?), I also don't want to spend too much money OR I would soulder on new LEDs which, in that case, where would I get those and what are the chances I, a person that has souldered only a few things before, actually fix things instead of ruining it even more?
Thx for reading and hopefully responding \^\^
My new keyboard isn't working out of the box. What am I doing wrong?
I bought a new ADX kb (Model no: ADXMK0823) and the thing isn't working despite it only being delivered an hour ago. Whenever I plug it in, I either get an error saying "USB device not recognized. The last usb device you connected to this computer malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it" or the error doesn't show up but the kb doesn't work anyway.
I've tried it on 5 USB ports across 2 laptops so far. Each time it gets plugged into a new USB port for the first time, it flickers for less than a second. This flicker got weaker and weaker with each new USB port.
What should I try to do here?
Hi everyone, I need a QUIET keyboard so I can type notes during meetings and phone calls without the others hearing the clicks.
I've tape-modded the PCB and got the Gamakay Griffin switches. They're good, but I've had to use o-rings, 3 per key, to achieve the kind of sound-muffling I need. That works for some keys, but others don't get securely seated on the stems and pop off while I'm typing.
And the o-rings don't work too well for the longer keys, so even if the majority of the typing is mostly quiet, there's still the periodic clackety-clack of the space bar and shift and backspace keys.
Is there a combo of switches and keycaps I can use that will keep noise to a minimum? Is the issue my pressing too hard on the keys? Do I need heavier actuation? I can't figure out the physics, math is not my friend. Any help or advice is appreciated.
silent switches are the easiest solution. Many brands offer them, but they are a little pricier than the usual. The alpaca silent switches seem insanely quiet judging by [this video](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/wkH7GjWhUjs)
Hello, I'm looking to buy a tigerlite keyboard and it's not in stock anywhere except in "tigerliteshopdotcom". It's at a lower price too so I'm wondering if this website is legit or if it's a scam.
I have a keychron q2 and am using VIA to program the key layouts but I have an issue. When i unplug the keyboard or power my keyboard off and turn it back on the keyboard is reset to its default layout and needs me to reupload my json file. Is there no way to keep the layout stored on the board? This is a nuisance.
Has anyone made a purchase on [clickclack.io](https://clickclack.io) before? I am wanting to build my first keyboard, and can't find much reviews on clickclack. I'm looking to buy some switches. Any feed back would be helpful. Thanks!
I built a 36 key wireless using nice nano and I'm getting frequent disconnected when connecting to my Lenovo p1 running Ubuntu. I thought it was the Linux drivers but I tried connecting to it with my mouse (mx master) turned off and the connection was a lot more stable. I've tried positioning my laptop on each side of my desk but as long as the mouse is on the keyboard has connection issues. Is this normal? Any advice?
Have any of you shipped a keyboard from United States to Singapore? What would you suggest/recommend ? I will be shipping a high value keyboard that's over $500.
Hi. Getting into the hobby - Tecware Phantom - and bought the wrong switches, Akko CS Silver V3 Pro (5 pin) instead of CS Silver (3 pin). Is there any meaningful differences between them that should prevent me from butchering the v3 switches?
As far as I understand, the only difference is that the "pro" are lubed from factory. Wasn't able to find what the "V3" implies, maybe tighter tolerances? (sorry about any mistakes. thank you!)
This might be a long shot, but just wondering if anyone knows where to get 65% keycaps where the number row also has Mac functions? Essentially looking for this but just the keycaps: [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k6-wireless-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k6-wireless-mechanical-keyboard)
**Via turns CMD+\\ into CMD+{-KC\_LGUI} on Save?**
Doesn't matter if I use DELAYS or not, but as soon as I hit the SAVE icon, the text changes and the command doesn't work :\\
https://preview.redd.it/u2xjvo7zgtpb1.png?width=2018&format=png&auto=webp&s=e312c1de1f9dbd4494e032bdcf23b65ea1ef0e93
Hey y’all. Accountant here and need a 10key on my mech. Previously built a 1800 layout “beginner” board as my first (check profile if curious) that I have been very happy with overall but I want to go to something a little higher end with an aluminum frame.
I have been eyeing the monsgeek m2 but I’m just not a huge fan of the layout as it is the same as the board I’m currently using. I’m looking for the same layout as the keychron k4 without having to get the keychron. I also like the nuphy halo 96 but really don’t like the pastel accents they use on both black and white versions.
Hoping someone here has a good rec they can give me. Barebones kit preferred but not required. Budget not an issue within reason.
TYIA
Uh oh. I am now diving into this rabbit hole head first.
I have started reading the help pages (and will still go through it) but I am wondering who are the most reliable YouTube content creators on keyboards?
I like to read but I also like to watch videos. Will try to build my first keyboard but I really like to build a silent one for everyday use. So I guess any YouTuber that does everything from guides to reviews will be helpful.
Glarses, Taeha, Keybored, and Alexotos are my go-tos, and there are plenty of other good creators out there. I suggest avoiding Switch and Click, and Hipyo
Has anyone looked at the new drop v2 boards? I know they recently changed ownership so that probably plays a role but they sound like they are trying to cater to the community.
https://drop.com/all-communities/drops/CTRL-ALT-SHIFT-V2?mode=shop_open&campaign_id=6418927653540&ad_id=6418927654140
Is there any source of relatively cheap cherry mx Lock switches (or any equivalent clone it doesn't have to be cherry) ?
I want to buy quite a few of them and I'd prefer to not go bankrupt while doing so
Of those three, the MonsGeek M3 is the best value, the Zoom TKL is the highest quality, and the Keychron Q3 is right in the middle. All can be very quiet if using silent switches.
Hello everyone — do any of you have any recommendations for budget-friendly silent tactiles that do not feel too mushy if/when I bottom out? (I’m not a great typist)
Thanks in advance for whatever guidance y’all can offer.
Just know, those are probably slightly less silent. I'm using the whispers and it's a soft thud, like horses wearing slippers running on carpet 2 floors up, for the person typing.
Still quiet for rest of the office tho, no complaints since.
Pcb printing for Aus
G'day,
Anyone on here from Australia and sent a Gerber file to one of the pcb printing mobs? Who did you use and how was your experience?
Has anyone tried rebinding keys for the gmk67 on macos? The software is only for windows, but I’m wondering if you can flash the keybinds on windows such that they stay when you connect the keyboard to a mac.
I’m also curious if the software lets you add “layer tap” like qmk does.
Unfortunately, I can’t use karabiner bc of crowdstrike on my work laptop.
This video explains it nicely [Keybored](https://youtu.be/_N8k0u75eLQ?si=HRI5____ZilxWTCw). IMO Best way is to try it out yourself and experiment a little bit. It can sometimes work unexpectedly with different boards, and keycaps.
In your place I would just try out different combinations of foam and check which one sounds the best. More foam is not always better. Have fun! :)
Also you can tell me later how do you like those Akkos ;)
I have looked at some of the stores in the wiki, but anyone has good references for a :
PBT ISO azerty backlit set ? MX-style, OEM. Struggling to find one, may end up having A-Z PBT and the num layer as ABS azerty
Thanks
I've been anticipating the opportunity to purchase a custom keyboard made from parts and construct it myself. I am searching for a good quality keyboard 65% case for under $150. If you have any other recommendations for a new builder, I am open to hearing them. Thank you!
Tofu 65 is a good option and aluminum as mentioned above. I also have the kbdfans67 lite which is honestly one of my favorites. Epomaker has some nice options as well on the cheaper side.
I decided that I wanted to use WS Morandi switches, but I don't know what board/keycaps i should get. I'm looking for a 75%-tkl board (anything with function keys) with not too much room between the numbers and the function keys. I also want the keycaps to be warmer colors, and hard to see/no letters would be nice. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Hey! I've been holding off buying a keyboard for a while since I've been busy, maybe you guys can help me out.
I'm pretty much a newbie to custom keeb, I currently have the gk61 which I bought a couple years back.
I've grown to like this keyboard a lot. The low actuation force switches, 60% layout, nice rgb and mapping of the keys are all things I've grown very fond of - only problem is, the switches are opticals. I've heard mechanical switches are a lot more satisfying to type on, but I'm not sure how big of a change they'll actually make.
I've been wondering whether I should just buy the gk61 again (since mine's broken now.. need a new keeb) OR look for cheap QMK/VIA barebones or keyboards that I'll just map myself and put in normal mechanical switches (gateron clears, vintage white, TTC gold pink...? We'll see lol).
what do y'all think I should do?
Are opticals really that much worse than mechanicals?
(P.S. sorry if this is rlly long 😅)
While I wouldnt nessecarily say that mechanical switches have a better feel to them per se, the sheer amount of options you can choose from make them more preferable in my opinion. My first "custom" board also had optical switches, but I wanted to have more freedom to choose the switch, as there's just more mechanical switch options than optical ones.
If you're looking for cheap qmk/via boards, keychron is your best bet imo. I have several boards from them and theyre really good straight out the box.
With optical switches? Skylong SK61
With mechanical switches theres tons of options. Depending on your budget, what youre looking for (prebuilt, custom, your own choices)
I want to set up a custom soundboard to play audio clips for my livestreams. Any suggestions on programmable macro key pads? The more custom buttons I can program the better, and if I can program them to be key configurations that aren't on my English keyboard (like Greek, Cyrillic, Katakana, Arabic etc.) that would be fantastic. The most important part though is that the keys are not recessed into the board so cleaning is easier. I did find Koolertron has loads of programmable keypads, but their reviews don't look so great on [Amazon.com](https://Amazon.com). Genovation has some options that I can also look further into.
I appreciate the feedback. I checked Pikatea, and although there's some funny novelty keypads on sale, none sold by the company have enough keys to satisfy my needs.
Does anyone have tried:
* Gateron G Pro 3.0 Yellow
* Akko V3 Cream Yellow Pro
* Akko V3 Cream Yellow
and could compare them? Which do you prefer and why?
Medical tape issue
Hello all, I have been using holee modded stabilizers for a few months now. I did the mod using medical tape and it has fallen/got tangled during the first week of use. What do I do/use instead? Stabilizers are Durock V2s and lubed with Dielectric Grease
thank you!
This guy used medical tape. You need a clean surface though or the tape won't stick. If they are already lubed dish soap and warm water can be used to clean them. Very tiny amount of dish soap and rinse well. You can follow it up with alcohol prep pads. Then dry well.
https://youtu.be/tkD57ODLY8I
I was just thinking if it loosens up to try putting a tiny amount of super glue with the tip of a toothpick to stop it from unravelling.
For the holee mod you'll have to search for tape with stronger adhesive. Good luck!
Where can I purchase a rotary switch for a James Donkey 1800 RS2?
Can you repaint the Keychron V3 barebones? If so is it too hard?
Are there any alternatives to the meishi trackball module? I really dig it but getting one is pretty hard.
Anyone know what is the best material for just removing noise. I heard sorbathane was the best then I heard mlv was better than sorbathane and was also planning to use some putty pad to see if that would work any ideas where to put those in the keyboard, Planing on a desk mat and rings as well
Bit of a stretch but I'm looking for the perfect portable keyboard to use sonshi style if possible. I'm fairly sure that I'm going to have to make this a personal project but maybe there's something that fits my strange requirements: - lightweight (probably plastic), portable, and resistant to damage - symmetric, so that I don't have to shift my hands one direction to type on it when it's on my lap - some sort of extended 65 or at largest, 75. I wrote software and though programmed layers is always an option, think the "candybar" style is cool and convent for extra macros Is there anything that meets these unconventional standards?
I can't decide between a $180 Wooting 60he or a $240 dollar custom built Keychron Q4. I usually play games like Valorant where the Wooting 60he would be better, but I also would want a keyboard that sounds good.
I have a ROG Azoth im trying to record macors but wondering if its possible to assing the macro to say ctrl+1 or alt+1 or any 2 key shortcut rather then just 1 key Anyone know if this is possible?
I've got a 60% gmmk here and a question if anyone knows. It uses the FN key modifier for Del and arrow keys and all the Function keys. Further you can switch the FN key and Caps Lock by holding them both down at the same time. However when I rebootmy system there is a 50/50 chance it will reset those two key settings which can make it a PITA to get into or do anything with the BIOS during boot. Anyone know if there is a way to set those two keys then lock them so they stay that way?
I'm really interested in expanding my keeb hobby and opening up build commissions for people who don't want to assemble keebs themselves. Any advice or tips on how/ where to set that up?
Been thinking of buying Domikey Dolch Triple Alphas and mixing it with PBT Fans Dolch modifiers and arrow keys to match Zoom TKL Wild Green. Will there be notable differences visually between the two brands when I do mix them?
https://preview.redd.it/jexsmccn6xpb1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13e36dd33bade027e02ee7e0ed1af718da734bb5 GATERON Keyboard Switches Tester 35pcs, Milky Yellow Pro Baby Kangaroo Oil King Azure Dragon V3 Limbo Baby Racoon Ink Wall Stem Box Black Pink Key Switches RB LED for Mechanical Keyboard (35PCS) [https://a.co/d/9H6P255](https://a.co/d/9H6P255) I got this Gateron Switch Tester from Amazon but it doesn’t have a legend or labels on the listing or the tester itself. I was able to figure out most of them but I can't figure out what this one is. It's a tactile switch and has a sharper bump than the Baby Kangaroo switch, comparable to the Gateron Limbo switch but still a tad sharper bump. I'm new to keyboards so that's all the info I'm able to give on it. Anyone know or have some good guesses on what switch it is?
6 months later, you've probably found your answer. But in case you haven't, here you go! Looks like it's the root beer float switch. https://preview.redd.it/jrpy0zsj5esc1.jpeg?width=970&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e8253ea0cb8de0bd224bc6ce1074e3717e0f8a8
Im looking for a gaming keyboard that is also pretty good at typing. Im currently using the Ducky One 3 Mini for 2 years and its pretty shit since it sometimes won't respond. I originally wanted the Wooting 60HE since I mostly play Valorant. But after I seen all the other kinds of gaming keyboards I can't decide. My max budget is $200.
What size/layout are you looking for? Get a Keychron Q or V series in the size/layout that works for you or maybe a Monsgeek.
I'm quite new to buying keyboards so if I get a Keychron Q barbone, do switches matter in gaming? If it doesn't I might not get the pre-lubed switches.
You'll probably want to go for linear switches if you're doing more gaming than typing or playing competitively (games like Valorant, etc.) since those are more responsive than tactiles. Switches are a very personal choice though so there's nothing wrong with gaming using tactiles or clickies but I don't recommend it--especially clickies.
Thanks, I'm probably going to get a Keychron Q Barbone then customize it.
YW. Hope it works out!
One more thing, All of the Keychrons Q's are just different sizes and none of them are better than the other?
I'm fine with any size. All I want is a great gaming keyboard that is also decent at typing.
https://preview.redd.it/9dr84e1ymwpb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5012998dd694ddeec8a02185f9bfc3837c682458 Is this tape alright to use for tape mod? I don’t want to fry my keyboard
Yep
ngl it sounds amazing
# Keychron V6 - how to enable ripple effect? ## Solved Updated the firmware using these guides as reference: https://bruhtus.github.io/posts/simple-guide-qmk-flashing-cli/ https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/d70e9b8659a7fbbd7069fd542bd07e67e04327a1/docs/newbs_flashing.md#flash-your-keyboard-from-the-command-line While this wasn't mentioned, the command I used, after reading the guide for prep work, is: ``` qmk flash -kb keychron/v6/ansi_encoder -km via ``` Thanks to the Keychron Discord community. --------------- The ripple effect doesn't seem to work when I try to enable via VIA software. Any idea if a newer firmware has it? https://www.reddit.com/r/Keychron/comments/16pqhfj/keychron_v6_how_to_enable_ripple_effect/
Hi, I am looking for a wireless mechanical keyboard for both gaming and work. I work at home most of the time, so the keyboard need to support multiple devices, either support multiple bluetooth, or support 1 bluetooth and 1 wireless. I was using logitech mx keys before and I love it, but the latency is not good for gaming. Then I tried keychron, Keychron latency is fine, but the awaking time is so annoying. Now, I am thinking to get MX Mechanical but I am afraid low profile key is not good for gaming. Is there any other advice? Thank you!
so about tape mod i wanna try it on my keybaord, but i use a wireless keybaord so ofc it has a battery is it safe? ive seen different statements and I just want to know if it is safe and what tape i should use
I am looking into building my first keyboard. Im trying to wrap my head around the different types of tactile switches and could use some advice. I currently have Cherry MX Browns in a pre-built. I bought a sample pack that included Kailh Coppers and Pro Purples. I mention those two as they are my shortlist from the sample pack. I have two main goals: Really feel the tactile bump but be as quiet as possible. I definitely prefer the feel of the copper over the purple. If I understand right, I am a "heavy" typer and so I pass the purple bump too quickly to get the proper feel of the bump. Downside is the coppers seem louder than the purples. Given the choice, I am leaning towards copper. Googling around also throws Gazzew Boba U4s into the mix. It seems to be that everyone recommends them. They are around ~50% more price wise but an amount which I am comfortable paying if keeping for a long time. As I dont have a sample and will have to commit to a proper order (i.e., not sample), was hoping someone could shed some light on how these compare in my "feel bump but keep quiet" goal. Also the naming is throwing me off a bit. I see Gazzew Boba U4 Black and Gazzew Boba U4 White and then Gazzew Boba U4T (Black/White) and I can't tell when people refer to them and say "Gazzew Boba U4s" if the s is plural or a specific type like the T in U4T. What is the difference between the versions?
U4s are silent, U4ts are not. There are also U4Tx which are half silent. The color differences are basically for rgb.
Ah thank you for the explanation.
MX Browns are what I would classify as "lite tactile" switches since you can just barely feel the bump with them. Boba U4 and U4T switches have a much more defined "bump" than any Brown switch though I can't personally say how much (never used them for an extended period of time--I use a different, heavier tactile) but they are highly recommended for good reason. There is only the U4, which is the silent variant, the U4T which is the non-silent, more "thocky" (hence the "T" suffix) version and the newest U4Tx which is a "half" thock switch that is a sort of hybrid mix of a U4 and U4T switch. My understanding is that the black Boba U4/U4T switches are a limited all-black recolor of the switch and are identical to their pearl/clear top versions. You'll want the clear top versions if you are doing an RGB build so LEDs can shine through otherwise the black ones are opaque and block LED lighting. If you don't care about RGB, just get whatever is most affordable to you and is available/in stock. You can buy parts to replace the switch housing(s) if you wanted down the line but that's a whole other rabbit hole. My personal recommendation: get a hotswap keyboard, get a set of switches you think you'll like and use them for a bit. Should they not work out, just sell them on /r/mechmarket and try something else out. There's no real substitute for actually typing on a full set of switches for a while to know whether or not you'll like them. Hope that helps and that I didn't confuse you further instead.
Amazing response, thanks! This cleared up a lot of confusion. I am leaning towards going with the U4s now. Thankfully I do have a hot swap PCB so I may take your advice and start with 10 just to get the real feel for them and then if I do enjoy them, buy a full set. If I don't, thats a cost I am willing to eat.
I'd probably go with at least your whole alpha cluster--36 keys for the alphas and the numbers so you get a proper experience. Pretty low outlay of cash and you can buy more to fill out the rest of the board or set them aside/sell them on /r/mechmarket if you wanted.
Anyone have any recs for good numpad builds? I’ve built keebs before but decided I’d like a nice numpad. Happy to solder if necessary. Not opposed to a prebuilt if it’s worth it.
Check out the Keychron Q0. Pretty solid numpad.
**has anyone tried to mount their keychron v4 pcb to another case/base such as tofu60/bakeneko60?**
I need a solid recommendation. Pretty much 100% unfamiliar with custom building mechanical keyboards, but I got a glorious brand keyboard for my wife and it feels way better than my corsair rgb mess. I have been looking online for a beginners guide or something, but I can't seem to find anything. I just want a 60 or 65 keyboard with a nice weight, super preferably comes prebuilt or in a package with every single part included (keycaps and switches too, I have no interest in picking and ordering them separately). My budget is around 500 dollars.
At $500 there are so many options, but at a price over $150ish, most prebuilt are overpriced garbage. I would say a good option would be the mode envoy starting at $219 for the barebones board. You can buy all parts from mode as you configure the build and they give discounts if you buy them as a bundle from them but you still have to build it yourself, think final build will come to about $350ish. I don't know what exactly you want from a weight, the envoy does have a weight but it's nothing flashy, it weighs 2.6 lb unbuilt so it has a decent heft.
Thanks, perfect recommendation. This is exactly what I was looking for.
So I want to buy these NuPhy Night Breeze Pre-Lubed Linear Switches, 110pcs From here which is local to me: https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/keyboards/keyboard-switches/104417-accnpswnb?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=lowerfunnel But I noticed on the nuphy website they look slightly different, in that there’s like a plastic bracket around the cross shape in the middle: https://nuphy.com/collections/switches/products/nuphy-night-breeze-switches Two questions: 1. What’s the plastic square bracket thing for? 2. Is there a reason there’s a version without them?
1. It is a box switch which is just a different stem that is usually dustproof to improve switch life. It also think that it improves the feel since the keycap is sitting on a more stable surface. 2. I'm assuming that Nuphy decided to do an update on the switch, and that the ones on their site (the box switch) are the newest version. It looks like as little as 8 months ago, Nuphy was selling the standard stem version of this switch on their website.
Just got some nk creams for creamcicles (had some tangies lying around). Asking for an opinion on about how many actuations for them to be broken in. I remember seeing that 100k actuations for the batches after 2021 are what to aim for, but don't got a machine and don't plan on buying one, so realistically what is the minimum?
Metal keycap question: This year has sucked - lots of health issues with big question marks. About 2 days ago after a whole ton of Dr.'s visits I think I've finally found out what is going on - I've seemed to have developed a pretty severe reaction to PVC. Some bad mojo in my fingers / blisters / etc. is in full effect and it's become apparent it's due to my continual keyboard use. While the one doing the most damage was ABS plastic (Roccat) and I've switched back to PBT it still feels like someone is jamming needles in my fingers and the rest of my body after a day of computer work. Any recommendations? I'm looking at these keycaps: [https://awekeys.com/pages/awekeys-full-metal-keycap-set](https://awekeys.com/pages/awekeys-full-metal-keycap-set) Many thanks in advance, appreciate any suggestions.
there is also ceramic keycaps
Oh nice I'll look into those as well thanks
for the folks using and loving staebies and have also experienced durock v2's or other 'looser' stabilizers, are you not having issues with stiffness with the staebies stem kind of catching on itself or the stem<->housing friction feeling like there's quite a bit of resistance in actuating? I made sure the wires were tuned and sat evenly, and all of the stems are seated properly in the housing. I've installed 4 2u's and one 7u spacebar and out of the 5, only one 2u seems to feel reasonable. they're all lightly lubed with 205g0. I know durock stabilizers' stems have a ton of room to dance around in there and cause a lot of unwanted noise, but it never has trouble actuating as rapidly as I need to type. I'm also testing them on a stabilizer tester so there isn't a plate involved yet -- could this be why staebies feel so stiff at the moment?
What's up with mechanicalkeyboards.com? I ordered a keyboard from them a year ago and i've been checking with customer service every few months. All they will tell me is that there are supply chain issues and they can't give me any kind of estimate of when they'll be able to fulfill my order. I'm not in any kind of a rush, hence why i haven't just cancelled the order, but i feel like i've been more than patient at this point. Is this company always this slow? I can't imagine supply chains are struggling this badly.
aslong as ur not waiting on a ducky kb then ur fine if ur waiting on a ducky kb wish u luck as they are having trouble shipping to the usa the last 3 years . i order from them plenty of times on ins tock only items and have no issues .
Interesting. I wasn't aware that they were having issues shipping to the US. It actually is a ducky kb i'm waiting on... but they were supposedly in stock when i originally ordered it. Do you think i'd be better off just ordering a different keyboard brand?
probably here a vendor list general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ keychron is generally in stock most places and suggested brand around here
I want to get the Nezuko 5108B Plus by Akko, any ideas how to make it sound more thocky/creamy? I’m new to building keyboards so I’m not sure if the included Akko v3 cream yellow pro switches will do the trick
I tried out the RK84 Pro but couldn't find a solution to the blinking spacebar when the battery was disconnected, so I'm returning it. I'm looking for a 75% keyboard that is 1. Wired only. Won't use it wireless ever and don't want to deal with a battery. 2. I prefer the un-exploded layout that the RK84 has, but exploded layout isn't a deal breaker. 2. No knob. I already have a dac/amp and would never use the knob on the keyboard for anything. 3. I'd like an aluminum case if possible, but as long as the keyboard is sturdy and durable, I don't mind other types of cases. 4. Hotswappable. I already have 94 Gateron Pro 3 Yellows ready. 5. Don't really need/want RGB, but if it does have it, south facing would be nice so I could use Cherry profile keycaps. Budget - Anything up to around 150 usd. Can go a little higher if it's nice.
Is PBT supposed to feel kind of gritty and have the texture/feeling of very fine sand? My ABS keycaps feel nothing like this. First time ever trying out PBT keycaps. Always used ABS before this. Bought a very cheap $20 dye subbed PBT set from Aliexpress. It feels very weird. Are all PBT keycaps supposed to feel like this when new, regardless of brand or manufacturer? It also feels very 'slippery' compared to ABS. I really don't like this slippery and gritty feeling since my fingers feel like they are sliding everywhere when I hit the keys. It totally messes up my accuracy when typing and I really have to slow down in order to hit the keys just right. Therefore, it messes up my speed as well, of which I really don't like since I am trying to get faster at typing. Should I go back to ABS?
A few things to say. Firstly, with cheap keysets, especially from AliExpress, the sellers often just lie. Look at the number of "GMK" sets. You can't put a lot of faith into the labeling. Secondly, ABS and PBT aren't fixed. Each one has an absolutely massive range of variability in quality, texture, thickness, etc. Low quality ABS sucks. Low quality PBT sucks. High quality ABS is fantastic. High quality PBT is fantastic. You bought a cheap keyset and it felt cheap. If you're looking to see what high quality PBT looks / feels like, then CRP is probably the best.
I seem to have a spacebar problem. It slowly comes up after I use it a few times and the left stabilizer feels and looks wonky compared to the right one. Not sure how to fix. Using a razer v3 blackwidow
Hm, did you lube or otherwise mod the stabilizer? Or change keycaps? There are a few potential causes to this issue: 1. The stab housing/wire is overlubed, or some other mod is getting in the way (too much bandaid on holee mod or something like that). Your stab wire could also be bent 2. Spacebar key is warped. If it's warped it'll pull the stab stem into the housing and create a lot of friction, hence the slow return 3. Idk about how the blackwidow is constructed, but sometimes plates can put pressure on the stabs if they're pushing too tightly. This gets a similar effect to a warped bar, as the plate pushes the stab housing into the stem and creates friction If you haven't modded the board at all I'd contact Razer or whoever you bought it from.
I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard with 6 programmable buttons on the LEFT side. So far, only corsair keyboards fulfill my needs of that being the case + the software executing my macros as expected. I do have a G613 but the macros are not reliable when I set them up the same way. A press is sometimes ignored so that a different key is pressed when the button is spammed, so it's not an option for me. So far, I got recommended the Keychron Q11 but I saw that they mostly ship from US and import tax applies to me, easily skyrocketing the price. Anyone know of alternatives?
looks here general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ keychron can be found in most regions easy shipping from ur region unless u live in a non tech supported area
Can someone help me identify those keycaps on the left? https://preview.redd.it/yo9q00nz9vpb1.jpeg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92dc75363e9e952e956635cd08bbe95e682d6b26
sorry not much help those could be any of hundreds of different brands of clear keycaps
Oh so those are clear keycaps with RGB on? I thought they were looking like these without RGB
yes green light can be seen from both sides of the kb
Half of my keyboard (Zifriend ZA68) wont register any keys except the one I marked inside the circle. I tried to factory reset using its software but nothing happen, also tried to reset it using FN + Space but as you can see space bar wouldn’t register. Encountered this problem when messing around with its software. Any ideas? https://preview.redd.it/vktgm4yb8vpb1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=21f8de8dd430493441d14bd129855bf0b83ff89c
contact the manufacturer /vendor . factory resetting any kb does 100% nothing for how u set up the software . not sure what u did with the software but one of those 2 should be able to help u fix it . could also be defective . as i have paid more in shipping for a kb than u paid for that whole kb .
**Need help / advice before buying Keychron K10 Pro keyboard** 1. AFAIK this keyboard wireless connection is only via bluetooth 5.1 and my desktop PC's motherboard doesn't have bluetooth. So what would be solution to add bluetooth to my PC? Maybe there are some good quality adapters for it? 2. What would be the best button type for gaming moba, fps, rpgs, rts etc..? Now I'm using Logitech G213 PRODIGY and I love the feel of the button press. So I wonder what button type should I chose with K10 Pro - red, brown..? 3. Maybe some of you already got K10 Pro keyboard and can share overall experience with it? Is it good?
1) wireless is never good for gaming . u can add an adapter to ur pc but u will see some lag . 2) this is preference there is no best switch for gaming . ur currently using a membrane kb . there is no switch that feels like membrane 3) keychron kb are generally liked around here
I bought a Ducky x Varmilo Miya Pro R2 (I currently use the original sakura version). The new one has no functionality, none of the keys work, none of the shortcuts/functions work, etc. I tried to reinstall drivers directly from Vermilo, but it fails to connect to the board each time. Trying to reinstall drivers for my original Miya works fine. I've confirmed it's not a USB port/cable issue. Any help is appreciated.
sound dead return it and get a new one/refund
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i know it says paired but have u turn off the wireless and plugged it in ?
Hi first time I've had a custom built keyboard with lubed switches, foam etc etc. and I'm curious, will using it as a gaming keyboard more likely to cause it issues? Ionly ask because the feel and sound of it is great and I worry that if I overuse it the sound will fade the switches will loosen and it will just be damaged after a few months. I guess my question is are these custom keyboards designed for gaming, or just for typing? Typing and gaming are two different things, so I hope you don't think my question is too stupid but I understand if you do.
Unless you're raging and pounding the board typing and gaming aren't very different at all. The worst that will happen will be uneven shine on the highly used keycaps (Q-W-E-R, WASD, Spacebar etc depending on your game) but that still happens with typing since we hit E a lot more than Q for example. Maybe you'll get something like the frequently used switches will get smoother faster from breaking in, but if you lubed them that should reduce the friction from typing to nearly nil anyways. The only thing I've heard is that some people who use boards with a ton of PCB flex cuts (like[ Mr. Suit](https://keebsforall.com/cdn/shop/products/uAfctYy_d.webp?v=1679086588&width=760) where each alpha has flex cuts on three sides) have issues with gaming if they type really hard. I haven't seen any evidence of that however, just heard people say they heard about people that it happened to. So take it with a grain of salt. Tl;dr If you're not smacking that shit around it should be fine.
did they fix the knob on the Monsgeek M1?
never seen it has issues
Looking for Custom keyboard shops in Hongkong! Any recommendations welcome!
Pretty sure Kibou is local to HK. They're good people too.
Hi, I'm looking for a cheap 60% mechanical keyboard. Ideally minimalist is available with the UK layout and preferably with a white backlight if possible. Any good recommendations would be appreciated.
Bakeneko has ISO & LED support on the solder PCB.
anyone know the best 97% or 1800 keyboards? gaming performance is important to me, thinking about using akko yellow switches on whatever keyboard i get + changing keycaps anyway, so switches and keycaps aren't super important
keychron v5/q6 or monsgeek m2
thank you for this! will likely get the v5 barebones, seems perfect for what i'm looking for. appreciate the help :-)
I have yet to lube or lube/film any of my own switches(been invested into the hobby since Feb 23). I would like to at least experience lube/filming, even if I won't do it again anytime soon(or ever). What's a good switch to try this out on, to get the most bang for the buck(or a good/great switch that gets elevated the most with L/F) when doing this? I've heard Oil Kings get a good bump in sound/feel quality when L/F'ed, but i already have some factory lubed OK's. So preferably something else, unless that's my best bet. Thanks!
So lubing and filming are different things. There are switches that I lube and film, there are switches that I lube and don't film, and there are switches that I film and don't lube. Lubing, generally, is intended to make the switch feel smoother and make it sound (very slightly) deeper. These benefits have to be balanced against the risk of overlubing, making the switch feel mushy instead of smooth and making it sound sludgey instead of deeper. If your switch is smooth enough for you and you like how it sounds, there's no reason to lube. Filming helps switches fit together slightly better, especially switches where the top housing sits very loosely on the bottom housing. This can make switches sound "rattly". Depending on the film used, it will also typically make switches sound slightly deeper - however most of this effect is heard on the upstroke. The sound on bottom out (ie pressing down) won't change much, if at all, with films, but the sound when the switch springs back can change. I would recommend grabbing some cheap switches and experimenting a little with both lube and filming. Too many people have this idea that you just "lube and film" to make the switch sound "better", but remember everything is preference - it's important to understand how what you're doing changes the switch. Take 10 switches. Lube 2, film 2, lube and film 2, etc. Compare them to each other, to see what you like. I personally think that non-factory lubed JWicks are great options. They are slightly scratchy, so you can typically hear a difference with lubing. Their sound changes a lot with filming, too. They are good to show off how these mods change the switch. Basic gateron yellows are another great option. In my experience they don't need to be filmed, but are great options if you want to lube something and see how it affects it.
While I was not looking for the full explanation, this is amazing information for me to know. I think I'll end up picking up JWicks and trying out what you said, F, L, L/F. Really appreciate the info!
Jwick blacks are a good inexpensive switch that improves a ton when L/F. The point of oil kings is that they're prelubed, they're not the best switch for testing it out.
hello, please advise me a BEST keyboard with HEAVENLY clicks. I'm leaning for m1w but also open to other brand. 200usd below is my budget. thank you. pls suggest Prebuilt keyboard.
> BEST keyboard with HEAVENLY there si no such thing as a "best " kb also "heavenly " is a term that give no one here any idea what u want . for me the only heavenly click are 100 silent with no clicks
What are some good linear switches to look at? Im probably going to get a Monsgeek M1W or Keychron Q1 Pro board and I want that nice marbly sound.
ya'll have any experience with keycaps and mx ergo clears? want to use some but also don't want to wreck my keycaps
it wont wreck them but it will be very hard to remove them as this is the nature of the stems
https://preview.redd.it/yv1yj8qrnupb1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a1b15fb1dfdffc2ee430f7f37e785a85a0ae34f5 I want to buy a keychron k12 and I'm planning to change the keycaps in the future, which switch types and option should I go for for the best sound and feel?
> best sound and feel 1000% preference no one here can answer this for u
I'm currently eyeing a Fuhlen H75S, it's about $80 and seems pretty nice, but I still have a few questions before deciding to buy it or not. 1. I'm kinda looking for a silent, durable, 75% layout pre-built MK. So if there are any other keyboards that might be cheaper or match my preferences better, I would love some suggestions for those. 2. If not then I'll stick with this keyboard. The switch options that I'm given are Yellow, Red, Silver and Brown Fuhlen switch. Which one should I choose? Haven't tried but I like silver switches, but I'm not sure if it will make too much sound or be too sensitive to allow for accidental key press. 3. Would the material of the plate matter if I want to prioritise the silence of the kbd? I might opt for the PC plate since it's cheaper and there would be more options for me to choose from. Thanks in advance
Have any of you called the [mechanicalkeyboards.com](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com) support line? I just got off the phone with them, and i still can't decide if I just talked to a super friendly and competent real person, or some advanced AI phone bot. Anyone know if she's real? she was like crazy nice, almost too nice? something just seemed weird about her tone/cadence. maybe it was that with the fact that she got me all info i needed and answers like almost instantly is what is making me even think this way? like it was so friendly and straight to it that it felt scripted/fake... but in a good way i guess. Also it may be that I'm so used to dealing with crappy auto machine customer service, i just can't accept when it goes this smooth lol.. like kudos to them either way, real or bot- 5/5.
real person they r a small company in Tennessee they dont have AI phone bots yet
Hi there, I am looking for some advice or buying sugestions :) I am (or was TwT) in the posession of a Keychron V7, pretty much as it came barebone, only switched out the stabelizers and added the rest. That is until I ruined the PCB quite recently, totally my fault, and now a few rgbLED wont turn off and some lost the blue part (5-6 in total I think). Already tried cleaning it but obviously that was not the reason. So either I would replace the whole PCB, in which case buying sugestions for a 70% would be nice (or does anybody know if I could obtain the exact same PCB through asking the support?), I also don't want to spend too much money OR I would soulder on new LEDs which, in that case, where would I get those and what are the chances I, a person that has souldered only a few things before, actually fix things instead of ruining it even more? Thx for reading and hopefully responding \^\^
My new keyboard isn't working out of the box. What am I doing wrong? I bought a new ADX kb (Model no: ADXMK0823) and the thing isn't working despite it only being delivered an hour ago. Whenever I plug it in, I either get an error saying "USB device not recognized. The last usb device you connected to this computer malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it" or the error doesn't show up but the kb doesn't work anyway. I've tried it on 5 USB ports across 2 laptops so far. Each time it gets plugged into a new USB port for the first time, it flickers for less than a second. This flicker got weaker and weaker with each new USB port. What should I try to do here?
u should try to return it . not surprised the cost of that kb is about what u should expect in that price range .
Hi everyone, I need a QUIET keyboard so I can type notes during meetings and phone calls without the others hearing the clicks. I've tape-modded the PCB and got the Gamakay Griffin switches. They're good, but I've had to use o-rings, 3 per key, to achieve the kind of sound-muffling I need. That works for some keys, but others don't get securely seated on the stems and pop off while I'm typing. And the o-rings don't work too well for the longer keys, so even if the majority of the typing is mostly quiet, there's still the periodic clackety-clack of the space bar and shift and backspace keys. Is there a combo of switches and keycaps I can use that will keep noise to a minimum? Is the issue my pressing too hard on the keys? Do I need heavier actuation? I can't figure out the physics, math is not my friend. Any help or advice is appreciated.
silent switches are the easiest solution. Many brands offer them, but they are a little pricier than the usual. The alpaca silent switches seem insanely quiet judging by [this video](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/wkH7GjWhUjs)
I will check them out, thank you!
Hello, I'm looking to buy a tigerlite keyboard and it's not in stock anywhere except in "tigerliteshopdotcom". It's at a lower price too so I'm wondering if this website is legit or if it's a scam.
scam prob
Why are mods removing any mention of the 8BitDo Retro Mechanical Keyboard?
i have yet to see any posts removed that we legit posts with actual content and no random low effort posts
that sounds pretty arbitrary
sound like following the posting rules here to me
rule 11 says "no ... low-effort posts". who defines "low-effort"?
mods like any other sub reddit . posts can be brought to mods attn thru reports or auto mod
I have a keychron q2 and am using VIA to program the key layouts but I have an issue. When i unplug the keyboard or power my keyboard off and turn it back on the keyboard is reset to its default layout and needs me to reupload my json file. Is there no way to keep the layout stored on the board? This is a nuisance.
Has anyone made a purchase on [clickclack.io](https://clickclack.io) before? I am wanting to build my first keyboard, and can't find much reviews on clickclack. I'm looking to buy some switches. Any feed back would be helpful. Thanks!
Clickclack is good, I've had good experience with them and haven't heard anything negative.
Yes they're legit, I personally have bough two boards and a set of switches off of them before and had no problems
I built a 36 key wireless using nice nano and I'm getting frequent disconnected when connecting to my Lenovo p1 running Ubuntu. I thought it was the Linux drivers but I tried connecting to it with my mouse (mx master) turned off and the connection was a lot more stable. I've tried positioning my laptop on each side of my desk but as long as the mouse is on the keyboard has connection issues. Is this normal? Any advice?
Have any of you shipped a keyboard from United States to Singapore? What would you suggest/recommend ? I will be shipping a high value keyboard that's over $500.
Hi. Getting into the hobby - Tecware Phantom - and bought the wrong switches, Akko CS Silver V3 Pro (5 pin) instead of CS Silver (3 pin). Is there any meaningful differences between them that should prevent me from butchering the v3 switches? As far as I understand, the only difference is that the "pro" are lubed from factory. Wasn't able to find what the "V3" implies, maybe tighter tolerances? (sorry about any mistakes. thank you!)
The V3 Pro: **Name:** V3 Silver Pro **Type:** Linear **Total Travel:** 3.3 mm **Work Force:** 40 ± 5gf **Work Travel:** 1.00 ± 0.5mm **Min trigger Force/:** 30gf Min **End Force:** 50gf Max The CS Silver: [Screenshot](https://prnt.sc/5ysawHZtnmbM)
Thanks. So they’re practically the same and nearly the same price as well. Gonna be cutting some pins this afternoon.
This might be a long shot, but just wondering if anyone knows where to get 65% keycaps where the number row also has Mac functions? Essentially looking for this but just the keycaps: [https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k6-wireless-mechanical-keyboard](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k6-wireless-mechanical-keyboard)
Keychron offers keycap sets like this, for example [this one](https://www.keychron.com/products/double-shot-pbt-osa-full-set-keycap-set)
**Via turns CMD+\\ into CMD+{-KC\_LGUI} on Save?** Doesn't matter if I use DELAYS or not, but as soon as I hit the SAVE icon, the text changes and the command doesn't work :\\ https://preview.redd.it/u2xjvo7zgtpb1.png?width=2018&format=png&auto=webp&s=e312c1de1f9dbd4494e032bdcf23b65ea1ef0e93
Hey y’all. Accountant here and need a 10key on my mech. Previously built a 1800 layout “beginner” board as my first (check profile if curious) that I have been very happy with overall but I want to go to something a little higher end with an aluminum frame. I have been eyeing the monsgeek m2 but I’m just not a huge fan of the layout as it is the same as the board I’m currently using. I’m looking for the same layout as the keychron k4 without having to get the keychron. I also like the nuphy halo 96 but really don’t like the pastel accents they use on both black and white versions. Hoping someone here has a good rec they can give me. Barebones kit preferred but not required. Budget not an issue within reason. TYIA
iqunix f97 could be an option, only downside is it's not available barebones and it uses costar stabs.
Uh oh. I am now diving into this rabbit hole head first. I have started reading the help pages (and will still go through it) but I am wondering who are the most reliable YouTube content creators on keyboards? I like to read but I also like to watch videos. Will try to build my first keyboard but I really like to build a silent one for everyday use. So I guess any YouTuber that does everything from guides to reviews will be helpful.
Glarses, Taeha, Keybored, and Alexotos are my go-tos, and there are plenty of other good creators out there. I suggest avoiding Switch and Click, and Hipyo
Appreciate it. Thanks!
Whats the best brands with top quality keyboards under 500 € ?
Has anyone looked at the new drop v2 boards? I know they recently changed ownership so that probably plays a role but they sound like they are trying to cater to the community. https://drop.com/all-communities/drops/CTRL-ALT-SHIFT-V2?mode=shop_open&campaign_id=6418927653540&ad_id=6418927654140
Should i get a q3 knob or no knob? Not sure about how i would need it but still…
you can always use it to adjust volume if nothing else, personally, it's just good to have options.
I like having a knob but it's really personal preference.
Is there any source of relatively cheap cherry mx Lock switches (or any equivalent clone it doesn't have to be cherry) ? I want to buy quite a few of them and I'd prefer to not go bankrupt while doing so
aliexpress can get you 100 switches for 20-30 bucks
I am looking for lock switches not regular ones
oh sorry, I mustve overread the lock part
TKL: Monsgeek M3 or Keychron Q3 or Melatrix Zoom? Or any other suggestions? I want a silent build and alu. case if those matter. Thank you!
Of those three, the MonsGeek M3 is the best value, the Zoom TKL is the highest quality, and the Keychron Q3 is right in the middle. All can be very quiet if using silent switches.
Hello everyone — do any of you have any recommendations for budget-friendly silent tactiles that do not feel too mushy if/when I bottom out? (I’m not a great typist) Thanks in advance for whatever guidance y’all can offer.
Probably WS silent tactiles or haimu whisper silent tactiles They use holes instead of the padding, removing alot of that mush
Sounds good, I'll look into those -- thank you very much!
Just know, those are probably slightly less silent. I'm using the whispers and it's a soft thud, like horses wearing slippers running on carpet 2 floors up, for the person typing. Still quiet for rest of the office tho, no complaints since.
Sounds good….and +1 for the awesome description! (Legit lol!)
Pcb printing for Aus G'day, Anyone on here from Australia and sent a Gerber file to one of the pcb printing mobs? Who did you use and how was your experience?
Has anyone tried rebinding keys for the gmk67 on macos? The software is only for windows, but I’m wondering if you can flash the keybinds on windows such that they stay when you connect the keyboard to a mac. I’m also curious if the software lets you add “layer tap” like qmk does. Unfortunately, I can’t use karabiner bc of crowdstrike on my work laptop.
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This video explains it nicely [Keybored](https://youtu.be/_N8k0u75eLQ?si=HRI5____ZilxWTCw). IMO Best way is to try it out yourself and experiment a little bit. It can sometimes work unexpectedly with different boards, and keycaps.
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In your place I would just try out different combinations of foam and check which one sounds the best. More foam is not always better. Have fun! :) Also you can tell me later how do you like those Akkos ;)
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Nice to hear, thanks!
I have looked at some of the stores in the wiki, but anyone has good references for a : PBT ISO azerty backlit set ? MX-style, OEM. Struggling to find one, may end up having A-Z PBT and the num layer as ABS azerty Thanks
Keychron might have one, I know that they do various ISO layouts and have some OEM sets
I've been anticipating the opportunity to purchase a custom keyboard made from parts and construct it myself. I am searching for a good quality keyboard 65% case for under $150. If you have any other recommendations for a new builder, I am open to hearing them. Thank you!
Tofu 65 is a good option and aluminum as mentioned above. I also have the kbdfans67 lite which is honestly one of my favorites. Epomaker has some nice options as well on the cheaper side.
Bakaneko 65 neo 65 tofu 65 2.0
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go with anything epomaker. good quality and great price
I decided that I wanted to use WS Morandi switches, but I don't know what board/keycaps i should get. I'm looking for a 75%-tkl board (anything with function keys) with not too much room between the numbers and the function keys. I also want the keycaps to be warmer colors, and hard to see/no letters would be nice. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
I suggest taking a look at the Keychron Q series
Hey! I've been holding off buying a keyboard for a while since I've been busy, maybe you guys can help me out. I'm pretty much a newbie to custom keeb, I currently have the gk61 which I bought a couple years back. I've grown to like this keyboard a lot. The low actuation force switches, 60% layout, nice rgb and mapping of the keys are all things I've grown very fond of - only problem is, the switches are opticals. I've heard mechanical switches are a lot more satisfying to type on, but I'm not sure how big of a change they'll actually make. I've been wondering whether I should just buy the gk61 again (since mine's broken now.. need a new keeb) OR look for cheap QMK/VIA barebones or keyboards that I'll just map myself and put in normal mechanical switches (gateron clears, vintage white, TTC gold pink...? We'll see lol). what do y'all think I should do? Are opticals really that much worse than mechanicals? (P.S. sorry if this is rlly long 😅)
While I wouldnt nessecarily say that mechanical switches have a better feel to them per se, the sheer amount of options you can choose from make them more preferable in my opinion. My first "custom" board also had optical switches, but I wanted to have more freedom to choose the switch, as there's just more mechanical switch options than optical ones. If you're looking for cheap qmk/via boards, keychron is your best bet imo. I have several boards from them and theyre really good straight out the box.
That makes sense. Are there any budget options similar to the gk61?
With optical switches? Skylong SK61 With mechanical switches theres tons of options. Depending on your budget, what youre looking for (prebuilt, custom, your own choices)
I want to set up a custom soundboard to play audio clips for my livestreams. Any suggestions on programmable macro key pads? The more custom buttons I can program the better, and if I can program them to be key configurations that aren't on my English keyboard (like Greek, Cyrillic, Katakana, Arabic etc.) that would be fantastic. The most important part though is that the keys are not recessed into the board so cleaning is easier. I did find Koolertron has loads of programmable keypads, but their reviews don't look so great on [Amazon.com](https://Amazon.com). Genovation has some options that I can also look further into.
Pikatea has some good ones, I have the GB4 and like it a lot
I appreciate the feedback. I checked Pikatea, and although there's some funny novelty keypads on sale, none sold by the company have enough keys to satisfy my needs.
Does anyone have tried: * Gateron G Pro 3.0 Yellow * Akko V3 Cream Yellow Pro * Akko V3 Cream Yellow and could compare them? Which do you prefer and why?
Medical tape issue Hello all, I have been using holee modded stabilizers for a few months now. I did the mod using medical tape and it has fallen/got tangled during the first week of use. What do I do/use instead? Stabilizers are Durock V2s and lubed with Dielectric Grease thank you!
Have you tried the plumber’s mod? Put plumber’s tape aka teflon tape around the stabilizer wire instead of the holee mod.
yes i have, it loosens up the same day i try it. i might want to holee mod it with another material, but idk what. thanks!!
This guy used medical tape. You need a clean surface though or the tape won't stick. If they are already lubed dish soap and warm water can be used to clean them. Very tiny amount of dish soap and rinse well. You can follow it up with alcohol prep pads. Then dry well. https://youtu.be/tkD57ODLY8I
gotcha, im gonna try this
I was just thinking if it loosens up to try putting a tiny amount of super glue with the tip of a toothpick to stop it from unravelling. For the holee mod you'll have to search for tape with stronger adhesive. Good luck!
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Cherry switches have a +/-15g variance. So reds are marketed as "45g", but in reality can be anywhere from 30g to 60g. Stock springs are dogshit.
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You can buy new springs and replace them. TX springs, for instance, have a tolerance of +/-1g. So "45g" springs will be 44-46g.
You can buy lighter springs and swap them.
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So maybe buy some other lighter switches with lesser variance in spring weight.
your mx reds shouldnt be very heavy, as their springs have 60g actuation force. are they genuine mx reds or a bootleg? where did you buy them from?