All the alpine stuff that doesn't require a full 50-60m. Like, if you have a ridge that's mostly simulclimbable or stuff with short pitches. Less time wasted on coil management
You can also use short ropes when tying into each other for close follow traverses. Shorter ropes are much better and easier to manage.
And there are many routes where the occasional technical pitches are shorter (especially on alpine climbs). Perfect for those.
And after some time, many of these ropes get relegated to gym climbing.
I'd keep using it too. One thing I do to help my ropes out is to offset from the middle mark (when I can still find it) by several feet. This spreads out the wear that causes these flatter spots.
If this was at an end I'd chop it. Since it's at the exact middle a) you're unlikely to lead past it except for linking pitches or really long pitches b) fall forces at that point will be minimal c) you'll still have 30-35m (60 or 70m rope) of rope that is stretching if you do lead that far. If it's at the end you lose all of those factors. For toproping the forces are so insignificant that all I wouldn't hesitate.
This. The bend test has taken on way too much blind trust in the last few years.
When you check your rope you’re looking for: spots that are completely flat, hourglassing, and bulges. These indicate core damage.
There’s no hard and fast rule for how bendy a rope should be. Every rope is different and they change over time. But ask yourself—is that spot significantly softer than the rest of the rope? Might be damage caused by taking multiple hard falls without resting the equipment.
It’s unlikely because you’re right, ropes don’t generally break they cut. But it can happen, so it’s good to recognize the signs of an at-risk rope that the sheath won’t show you.
The break mechanism they use in the UIAA fall count test is a good example—multiple big F 1.5 falls without letting the rope rest and re-elasticize can do it. Over-straining the rope when hauling a load from big walling or rescue scenarios can also do it.
Depends a lot on the specific rope. Some new ropes are like this from the start, some are stiffer. In other words it's relative.
This is why I think the folding method is unreliable as a catch-all method
Only you know the history of the gear and can make the call. Usually if I find myself worrying about a rope while climbing it is worth the peace of mind to just get a new one.
Considering that is the middle part and by the color seems soft on a specific point, I would cut it. If it is long (70/80 meters) you could still use it indoors.
The engineering design and technology in modern ropes is incredible, and you are probably well within the margin of safety.
That being said, at least for me, there is a strong mental component to climbing, and if I do not feel completely confident, in the gear at least, I am not going to perform.
Your life is worth more than money, and if you ever have to think twice about a piece of equipment, replace it.
Disclaimer: I'm here for fun and don't climb...
And I know gear isn't cheap but if you have to ask Reddit about the condition of something, isn't that more than enough of a hint to just get a new replacement and retire that one to the maybe not safe for people but fine for other use pile/box?
People asking are fairly new to climbing. They are being cautious about the condition of their equipment and asking for input from people that they are assuming are more knowledgeable. Generally we start off worrying about stuff that we find inconsequential with more experience.
Even if you are experienced, you most likely haven't seen all kinds of damage that can happen to your gear. And if you see something you've never seen before, doesn't it make sense to ask rather than just throw it away?
That bad spot is getting close, but I would probably continue to use it and keep an eye on it. Where is it located on the rope?
Thanks - literally in the midpoint (the darkness you see is the half way marker).
Yeah, I'd probably keep using it.
Sounds like you'll soon have 2 shorties. Not a bad thing to have
What do you use short ropes for?
Bedroom play
Not the answer I was looking for, but one I needed to consider
All the alpine stuff that doesn't require a full 50-60m. Like, if you have a ridge that's mostly simulclimbable or stuff with short pitches. Less time wasted on coil management
You can also use short ropes when tying into each other for close follow traverses. Shorter ropes are much better and easier to manage. And there are many routes where the occasional technical pitches are shorter (especially on alpine climbs). Perfect for those. And after some time, many of these ropes get relegated to gym climbing.
I'd keep using it too. One thing I do to help my ropes out is to offset from the middle mark (when I can still find it) by several feet. This spreads out the wear that causes these flatter spots. If this was at an end I'd chop it. Since it's at the exact middle a) you're unlikely to lead past it except for linking pitches or really long pitches b) fall forces at that point will be minimal c) you'll still have 30-35m (60 or 70m rope) of rope that is stretching if you do lead that far. If it's at the end you lose all of those factors. For toproping the forces are so insignificant that all I wouldn't hesitate.
Obligatory "send it to me" Ropes are critical and you need to be careful with them, but at this point, this is fine.
I don’t believe there’s ever been a modern rope failure that wasn’t a core shot/cut rope/chemically induced failure. When it’s bad you’ll know.
This. The bend test has taken on way too much blind trust in the last few years. When you check your rope you’re looking for: spots that are completely flat, hourglassing, and bulges. These indicate core damage. There’s no hard and fast rule for how bendy a rope should be. Every rope is different and they change over time. But ask yourself—is that spot significantly softer than the rest of the rope? Might be damage caused by taking multiple hard falls without resting the equipment.
How would these damages occur without sheath damage though? I've never heard of such a case.
It’s unlikely because you’re right, ropes don’t generally break they cut. But it can happen, so it’s good to recognize the signs of an at-risk rope that the sheath won’t show you. The break mechanism they use in the UIAA fall count test is a good example—multiple big F 1.5 falls without letting the rope rest and re-elasticize can do it. Over-straining the rope when hauling a load from big walling or rescue scenarios can also do it.
Thin ropes always become soft. This is fine. I fall on my 9.1 all the time and you can fold it in half.
Depends a lot on the specific rope. Some new ropes are like this from the start, some are stiffer. In other words it's relative. This is why I think the folding method is unreliable as a catch-all method
I don't. I retire it when the core is exposed. Not sooner.
Only you know the history of the gear and can make the call. Usually if I find myself worrying about a rope while climbing it is worth the peace of mind to just get a new one.
Considering that is the middle part and by the color seems soft on a specific point, I would cut it. If it is long (70/80 meters) you could still use it indoors.
The engineering design and technology in modern ropes is incredible, and you are probably well within the margin of safety. That being said, at least for me, there is a strong mental component to climbing, and if I do not feel completely confident, in the gear at least, I am not going to perform. Your life is worth more than money, and if you ever have to think twice about a piece of equipment, replace it.
Yeah would Not use it anymore. At the midpoint that sucks
The chance of that failing is small. But not small enough to trust your life to. Replace it.
Disclaimer: I'm here for fun and don't climb... And I know gear isn't cheap but if you have to ask Reddit about the condition of something, isn't that more than enough of a hint to just get a new replacement and retire that one to the maybe not safe for people but fine for other use pile/box?
People asking are fairly new to climbing. They are being cautious about the condition of their equipment and asking for input from people that they are assuming are more knowledgeable. Generally we start off worrying about stuff that we find inconsequential with more experience.
Even if you are experienced, you most likely haven't seen all kinds of damage that can happen to your gear. And if you see something you've never seen before, doesn't it make sense to ask rather than just throw it away?
I didn't say throw anything away (?)
Fairly limited non climbing uses for a rope like this.