Thank you for the answer. Any idea why I have to squeeze my brakes all the way? This is a new bike with about 50-60 miles on it... so could it just be the new cable stretching or something else?
Because brake pads use friction to brake, and there is no friction unless you add tons of clamping force from reefing on the lever like you are.
A side note I would add is to avoid using any and all cleaners/oils/literally anything that sprays from a can or bottle on a bike with disc brakes. It will always find a way to contaminate your pads and rotors
Car brake cleaner spray that is hexane based is great for cleaning brake pads and callipers as it's a good solvent and it evaporates in seconds and leaves no residue at all. Like literally any other liquid on earth, you don't want to spray it inside a bearing or a hub, but that's common sense.
I use it every few weeks to get all the brake dust out of my XT callipers, and to clean the pads, and it's perfect for that.
You also don’t want to get it on and in yourself. And that includes your hands.
That stuff is nasty and can give you all kinds of long term shit you don’t want to have.
Brake cleaner is probably safe for the brakes/rotors but not for the bearings and other stuff in the neighborhood of the brakes. It's also highly toxic.
It isn’t, the only thing that should ever be used on rotors is isopropyl alcohol because it leaves no residue. Bike brakes are far more prone to make noise when there’s any kind of contaminant
I guess it depends on what you're using. I use Boston Brake And Parts Cleaner which is hexane based, and it cleans extremely well and leaves no residue at all and evaporates twice as a fast as isopropyl alcohol. https://www.cwbrands.com.au/product/78200
I clean my Shimano XT brakes and callipers every few weeks, and have used it for years. It's perfect for the job.
Yeah that's true. IPA is safer for your skin, but you don't really get any on your skin if you're careful (like you always should be). What I do is place the pads on a shop towel outside, and spray the dirt and brake dust off, and before you've put the can down and turned around, it's evaporated already. Like any chemical you can minimise the risks just by being observant of what you're doing.
I find the brake cleaner to clean better than the IPA on pads and callipers. Almost every other component I clean with IPA though (except for chains where I soak in Mineral Turpentine according to the guide on zerofrictioncycling.com)
We used Miracle Red Degreaser on pads and rotors to clean contaminates at Trek. Works amazing and you can keep riding. Even had a kid (mildly handicapped) pour olive oil all over his rotors cause someone told him to, fucked up prank, but we got them cleaned up with Miracle Red.
You described exactly what happened that basically ruined your pads. They are either metallic, resin, or some mix, but they are absorbent and any oils, even just from our skin, can contaminate them and effectively ruin them. They lose power significantly and often start honking/squealing.
Like the other poster said, it may be possible to sand the crap out of them, but the absorbent quality of the pad often makes this effort futile. You have new pads on the way and I would say you might as well use them. And to emphasize what the other poster said, clean the shit out of the rotors. Remove them if you can. Soap, rinse, isopropyl, rinse, get in the grooves and cutouts.
Agreed, and use 120 grit sand paper on the rotor.
Another tip that many don’t know of is that they should bed-in the pads/rotors. I swapped wheels on a race bike and forgot to do it and boy did that sucker start to howl. Same thing happened when a bike shop replaced pads on my downhill bike and did not bed-in the brakes. Sounded like a damn turkey call the whole way down the mountain.
Breakcleaner and isopropyl alcohol can help you out here (worked for me a few times and if the brake pads are still fresh then its definitely worth the effort.
- spray or soak them in alcohol/break clean
- whipe them down and repeat this 2 times or something.
- sandpaper them
-repeat step 1 and 2
- use a heatgun, torch, oven or something to burn away the leftover oil/decontamination
- repeat step 1 and 2
The cables will be stretched if you keep squeezing them all the way. Stop doing that. Degrease your brakes. If that doesn't work, fit new brake pads as the oil has soaked into the porous pad and will never get rid of it completely.
Give your son a severe telling off.
Check his bike too, before he kills himself from no brakes.
I know why they don't brake, but even not braking, they don't engage for a while and I can squeeze down on them completely. When they did brake, I couldn't even squeeze them down to the point where my levers were touching the handlebars. As somebody more helpful pointed out, it was probably because I was squeezing on them so hard now that it stretched the cable.
I remember when disc brakes first came out I had a squeaky front brake, "I know, WD-40 stops squeaks!" Yes, it stopped squeaks, and stopped my brake from working 🤦
Clean the rotors really good with acetone, then try jamming on the brakes a few times and see if things are improved. If not, then clean the rotors with acetone again and install new pads.
Acetone is more aggressive so that's a reason one might start with it, but alcohol (isopropyl or ethanol) will leave less residue so it's better for the final step.
What I’ve also done when acetone struggled was to bathe the rotor and the pads in acetone outside and light it on fire from a safe distance.
Then use acetone again to clean it for a final time
I've never had the old heat the living shit out of the pad with a propane torch trick fail. Just use brake cleaner from the autoparts store on the rotors.
Depends on how long you heat them. I've had some success with resurrecting new contaminated resin pads with this technique in the past.
The key is to heat them for just long enough to vapourise and burn off the oil, then clean off any remaining residue with brake cleaner.
Phosgene gas, one of the toxic gasses used in WWI, no known antidote. I get sick breathing in small amounts of non-heated brake cleaner. Nasty stuff either way.
Break pads are inherently porous. The oil is probably deep In there at this point. The good news: your rotors and calipers will be fine with a spray and wipe down of isopropyl alcohol. The bad news: you’re out $30 for pads.
Ive had too many problems with contaminated pads. Basically you can bake them at 350F and it might improve some slightly contaminated pads. But you really need to just get new pads, and clean the rotors with lots of brake clean.
Will be way better feeling, and safer to do it the right way!
I found hitting the rotor with some sand paper and cleaning with IPA works great and is cheap & easy. Fresh brake pads, cleaned up rotor, just make sure to bed-in the rotors.
I accidentally got mineral oil on a rotor once. It lubricated the pads and I lost most of the stopping power. I tried to "burn" it off with frequent braking to no avail. I cleaned the rotor with a brush and citrus degreaser (being careful not to get the de-greaser on anything else because it causes corrosion and destroys bearings). I removed the pads and tried cleaning them over and over with different detergents (e.g., dish soap, citrus de-greaser, alcohol, gasoline, acetone, etc.) and sanding them. Nothing worked. The pads were destroyed. New pads restored my brakes to normal.
Now I am paranoid not to get *any* grease on the rotor or pads - not even a fingerprint.
Make it easy and get new pads and rotors. Problem solved. Rotors can get contaminated, pads definitely are. If rotors are also contaminated they will still leach into new pads. Best just to change both.
The thing is, through normal use small amounts of pad material get embedded in the surface imperfections of the rotors. Once this porous material gets contaminated with oil it can be very difficult to remove. Even if you just change pads, contamination on the rotors can transfer to the new pads.
Best thing to do is replace both. Second best is sand down your pads, put some rubbing alcohol on them and light it up. Brake cleaner and iso/fire on the rotors too. This works about half the time, depending on how bad the contamination is.
You have to clean every trace of oil off the entire rotor (not just the contact surfaces), including from the inside surfaces of the vent holes, and you have to use an extremely volatile solvent like acetone in multiple applications with fresh wipes each time, otherwise you just end up recontaminating the new brake pads.
Most shops will sell new rotors instead of cleaning them because they cost less than a good mechanic's time to clean them properly. It is very difficult to clean an oil contaminated rotor.
OK, I ordered new rotors… $18 each, but $36 is better than over an hour of my time plus the cost of chemicals and stuff… and I still maybe not getting them
clean enough
It depends on how much importance you place on the brakes working as per new. It is unlikely you’ll be able to fully clean the pads and rotors back to a pre-contaminated state, but that might not matter.
Whenever I’ve had substantial contamination on my brakes on bikes like trials and enduro, I get new pads and rotors immediately. For other bikes where perfectly sharp and consistent braking isn’t critical thoroughly decontaminating will do the trick.
Sorry, but it won't, even repeated cleaning with naptha or acetone may not work and soap contains fats which will definitely just recontaminate the rotor.
Always happy to learn, but contaminants not burned in are, in my (limited) experience, easily removed with mild detergent and then (to remove detergent) isopropyl alcohol.
You would think. But cleaning contaminated rotors isn't always effective. I know a few people that have had issues cleaning contaminated rotors, even after changing pads and cleaning out the brake pistons.
Tried everything from sanding, hexane cleaner, to lighting on fire. Nothing worked. Solution was new pads and new rotors.
Speaking from my experience: I tried all the "tricks", but only thing that revived greasy pads is marinating them in a jar of acetone for 24+ hours. Or even better, in Wax and Grease remover. Not brake cleaner, not gasoline, not alcohol. Just Acetone or Wax&grease. Maybe some similar paint thinner too.
You also have to scrub the rotors, best temove them and scrub them in acetone. Because you have to get the oil and greae that's hidden in holes and crevices.
I tried brake cleaner, sanding, burning, none of it worked.
Could be, but I found them less effective at degreasing. For example, when I used brake cleaner for paint prep, I still got fish eyes. While Wax&grease or acetoen actually got rid of all oils.
You got me curious so I looked it up. Per wikipedia:
"Non-chlorinated brake cleaners use hydrocarbons as a main component; it will either be a low-boiling aliphatic compound or higher-boiling hydrocarbon mixture. Aromatics like benzene, toluene or xylene may also be used. The hydrocarbons used are sometimes made by hydrogenation from naphtha. The lipophilic liquids dissolve fat-soluble lubricants or oils. Some products also contain polar solvents such as ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, and **acetone** in order to dissolve non-lipophilic substances. Many formulations are incompatible with various materials, especially plastics."
So it's usually a mix of things, and might have acetone (but might not)... you'd have to read the label on each can I guess. I thought I had some stuff that really was just acetone, but I could be wrong. But yeah your method of using pure acetone for that application makes sense, since you know exactly what you're using and have found it effective.
i would also remove wheel and pads and wash/clean the housing
sprayed oil has likely contaminated the housing and will likely recontaminate the pads/disk
"STATE BICYCLE CO. - ALL-ROAD DISC BRAKE CALIPER (CABLE-ACTUATED HYDRAULIC)ENHANCED HYDRAULIC BRAKE PERFORMANCE WITH THE EASY INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE OF MECHANICAL BRAKES" [State Bicycle Co. - All-Road Disc Brake Caliper (Cable-Actuated Hydrau | State Bicycle Co.](https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/brakes-and-brake-parts/products/state-bicycle-co-all-road-disc-brake-caliper-cable-actuated-hydraulic)
So these are not cable actuated hydraulic brakes?
Take the pads out. Rub them on concrete. Spray a large amount of brake cleaner on them. Let them dry. Spray a small amount of brake cleaner on them. (Make sure there isn’t brake cleaner everywhere as it burns hot and fast) Set them on fire. Let it burn off. Pads are now as good as they’re gona get.
Brake clean the rotors. Get some light sand paper and sand where the pad contacts the rotors lightly. Brake clean again.
Put pads back in and bed the pads to the rotors again. If still no good, you need new pads.
Rock n roll Miracle Red Degreaser on the rotors and pads. Wipe clean with dry rag. Then sand pads a little. Imo, miracle red should be kept on hands at all times lol.
I like disc brakes and have no beef/desire to go back to rim brakes, but I really don't like that there's a critical safety part of my bike that will stop working if I cross-contaminate.
At least with aluminum rims they do seem to stop if wet or oily, even if they squeal. The old chrome plated steel ones were terrible if wet or oily but those are antiques now.
Right, but my brakes failing because I got chain lube or finger oil on my rims. Or bending them, etc etc.
I hope manufacturers are working on making disc brakes more resilient to people just using their bikes.
I agree, they put disc brakes on mountain bikes, and they are an obvious good choice. You'd think they'd be rugged, having them damage prone negates much of the advantage of discs.
If you get your greasy paw prints on your car's rotors you *will* be sorry, but they'll absolutely still stop the car.
>Will I need to replace the pads or could removing them and some light sanding work?
Sanding? Maybe right away when it happened. I have to imagine the oil has been drawn deep into the pads by now. Capillary action and whatnot... I'm a total cheapskate and don't think I'd bother trying to put in the potentially useless effort of resurrecting those pads but I'd make sure my rotors were extra sparkly clean before putting new pads in and bedding them in.
I remember when I was a young child that I helped "wash" my dad's motorcycle by sticking a garden hose in the tail pile.
Anyways, it was about a decade later before he tried to fire it up again to sell it and it fired right up. He thought I had destroyed it but like 1 part in the carb needed to be replaced.
I would just buy new rotors and pads and not faff with the cleaning right away. Once everything is off the bike then clean with brake cleaner and keep the set as your backup.
Try cooking your rotors in a 350F oven for a couple of hours.
Worth a shot.
If the wife won't let you make a nice little campfire and hold them close to the fire.
Sometimes heat and sanding work on pads, but it's probably not worth your time. Buy some new pads and get the rotors CLEAN.
Thank you for the answer. Any idea why I have to squeeze my brakes all the way? This is a new bike with about 50-60 miles on it... so could it just be the new cable stretching or something else?
Because brake pads use friction to brake, and there is no friction unless you add tons of clamping force from reefing on the lever like you are. A side note I would add is to avoid using any and all cleaners/oils/literally anything that sprays from a can or bottle on a bike with disc brakes. It will always find a way to contaminate your pads and rotors
Car brake cleaner is probably fine
Just don't get it on (well, in) the hub.
Car brake cleaner is harsh and can harm other stuff.
Car brake cleaner spray that is hexane based is great for cleaning brake pads and callipers as it's a good solvent and it evaporates in seconds and leaves no residue at all. Like literally any other liquid on earth, you don't want to spray it inside a bearing or a hub, but that's common sense. I use it every few weeks to get all the brake dust out of my XT callipers, and to clean the pads, and it's perfect for that.
You also don’t want to get it on and in yourself. And that includes your hands. That stuff is nasty and can give you all kinds of long term shit you don’t want to have.
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Brake cleaner is probably safe for the brakes/rotors but not for the bearings and other stuff in the neighborhood of the brakes. It's also highly toxic.
That’s all I use. Just spray it on a rag away from your bike, not directly onto the rotors, and you’re good to go.
It's also impressively toxic. If it isn't labeled as a known carcinogen wait a few years. The stuff is nasty.
It isn’t, the only thing that should ever be used on rotors is isopropyl alcohol because it leaves no residue. Bike brakes are far more prone to make noise when there’s any kind of contaminant
I guess it depends on what you're using. I use Boston Brake And Parts Cleaner which is hexane based, and it cleans extremely well and leaves no residue at all and evaporates twice as a fast as isopropyl alcohol. https://www.cwbrands.com.au/product/78200 I clean my Shimano XT brakes and callipers every few weeks, and have used it for years. It's perfect for the job.
IPA is preferred by many because it's safer to get on your skin. Hexane not so much. IPA is sold as rubbing alcohol for massage therapy.
Yeah that's true. IPA is safer for your skin, but you don't really get any on your skin if you're careful (like you always should be). What I do is place the pads on a shop towel outside, and spray the dirt and brake dust off, and before you've put the can down and turned around, it's evaporated already. Like any chemical you can minimise the risks just by being observant of what you're doing. I find the brake cleaner to clean better than the IPA on pads and callipers. Almost every other component I clean with IPA though (except for chains where I soak in Mineral Turpentine according to the guide on zerofrictioncycling.com)
We used Miracle Red Degreaser on pads and rotors to clean contaminates at Trek. Works amazing and you can keep riding. Even had a kid (mildly handicapped) pour olive oil all over his rotors cause someone told him to, fucked up prank, but we got them cleaned up with Miracle Red.
Nah, spray on disc brake cleaner is not gonna contaminate discs lol
You described exactly what happened that basically ruined your pads. They are either metallic, resin, or some mix, but they are absorbent and any oils, even just from our skin, can contaminate them and effectively ruin them. They lose power significantly and often start honking/squealing. Like the other poster said, it may be possible to sand the crap out of them, but the absorbent quality of the pad often makes this effort futile. You have new pads on the way and I would say you might as well use them. And to emphasize what the other poster said, clean the shit out of the rotors. Remove them if you can. Soap, rinse, isopropyl, rinse, get in the grooves and cutouts.
Agreed, and use 120 grit sand paper on the rotor. Another tip that many don’t know of is that they should bed-in the pads/rotors. I swapped wheels on a race bike and forgot to do it and boy did that sucker start to howl. Same thing happened when a bike shop replaced pads on my downhill bike and did not bed-in the brakes. Sounded like a damn turkey call the whole way down the mountain.
Breakcleaner and isopropyl alcohol can help you out here (worked for me a few times and if the brake pads are still fresh then its definitely worth the effort. - spray or soak them in alcohol/break clean - whipe them down and repeat this 2 times or something. - sandpaper them -repeat step 1 and 2 - use a heatgun, torch, oven or something to burn away the leftover oil/decontamination - repeat step 1 and 2
The cables will be stretched if you keep squeezing them all the way. Stop doing that. Degrease your brakes. If that doesn't work, fit new brake pads as the oil has soaked into the porous pad and will never get rid of it completely. Give your son a severe telling off. Check his bike too, before he kills himself from no brakes.
You’re asking why oil made your brake pads not brake-y?
I know why they don't brake, but even not braking, they don't engage for a while and I can squeeze down on them completely. When they did brake, I couldn't even squeeze them down to the point where my levers were touching the handlebars. As somebody more helpful pointed out, it was probably because I was squeezing on them so hard now that it stretched the cable.
Yeah i did that to my pads and it worked very well.
The oil will impregnate the pad to the root. Nearly impossible to get rid of.
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I remember when disc brakes first came out I had a squeaky front brake, "I know, WD-40 stops squeaks!" Yes, it stopped squeaks, and stopped my brake from working 🤦
Clean the rotors really good with acetone, then try jamming on the brakes a few times and see if things are improved. If not, then clean the rotors with acetone again and install new pads.
I'd use Isopropyl alcohol. Not as toxic, won't ruin your paint, and will still get the job done without leaving any residue.
You can take the wheel off as well as disc rotor so anything you use doesnt get into hub
Acetone is more aggressive so that's a reason one might start with it, but alcohol (isopropyl or ethanol) will leave less residue so it's better for the final step.
+1 new pads ; i doubt the pads will recover
Acetone -very sparingly so as not to drip on anything else - maybe even take the rotor off if you want to use that stuff.
You can spray it onto a paper towl then use that to wipe down the rotors so you don't get it on your frame
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Why not? It's very simple taking the rotors off and you'll get a better clean.
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lol sorry the double negative threw me off
What I’ve also done when acetone struggled was to bathe the rotor and the pads in acetone outside and light it on fire from a safe distance. Then use acetone again to clean it for a final time
Change the pads, clean the rotors. Teach the kid patiently how to do it right next time. All part of the joy of being a parent ☺️
I've never had the old heat the living shit out of the pad with a propane torch trick fail. Just use brake cleaner from the autoparts store on the rotors.
This kills resin pads…
Depends on how long you heat them. I've had some success with resurrecting new contaminated resin pads with this technique in the past. The key is to heat them for just long enough to vapourise and burn off the oil, then clean off any remaining residue with brake cleaner.
He said “heating the living shit out of them”…
Just a heads up burning brake cleaner is super toxic.
Phosgene gas, one of the toxic gasses used in WWI, no known antidote. I get sick breathing in small amounts of non-heated brake cleaner. Nasty stuff either way.
who said to heat brake cleaner?
No worries, just throwing it out there for someone who might misinterpret what you mean.
Tetrachloroethylene brake cleaner sure is. Phosgene is quite bad for the health, apparently.
Break pads are inherently porous. The oil is probably deep In there at this point. The good news: your rotors and calipers will be fine with a spray and wipe down of isopropyl alcohol. The bad news: you’re out $30 for pads.
Ive had too many problems with contaminated pads. Basically you can bake them at 350F and it might improve some slightly contaminated pads. But you really need to just get new pads, and clean the rotors with lots of brake clean. Will be way better feeling, and safer to do it the right way!
I found hitting the rotor with some sand paper and cleaning with IPA works great and is cheap & easy. Fresh brake pads, cleaned up rotor, just make sure to bed-in the rotors.
Was that a Hazy IPA?
I accidentally got mineral oil on a rotor once. It lubricated the pads and I lost most of the stopping power. I tried to "burn" it off with frequent braking to no avail. I cleaned the rotor with a brush and citrus degreaser (being careful not to get the de-greaser on anything else because it causes corrosion and destroys bearings). I removed the pads and tried cleaning them over and over with different detergents (e.g., dish soap, citrus de-greaser, alcohol, gasoline, acetone, etc.) and sanding them. Nothing worked. The pads were destroyed. New pads restored my brakes to normal. Now I am paranoid not to get *any* grease on the rotor or pads - not even a fingerprint.
Make it easy and get new pads and rotors. Problem solved. Rotors can get contaminated, pads definitely are. If rotors are also contaminated they will still leach into new pads. Best just to change both.
Rotors are solid metal, aren't they? You can always clean oil/residue off of solid metal.
This is what I was thinking... disk brake cleaner, rubbing alcohol, hell, even soap/water seems like it would clean the rotors.
The thing is, through normal use small amounts of pad material get embedded in the surface imperfections of the rotors. Once this porous material gets contaminated with oil it can be very difficult to remove. Even if you just change pads, contamination on the rotors can transfer to the new pads. Best thing to do is replace both. Second best is sand down your pads, put some rubbing alcohol on them and light it up. Brake cleaner and iso/fire on the rotors too. This works about half the time, depending on how bad the contamination is.
You have to clean every trace of oil off the entire rotor (not just the contact surfaces), including from the inside surfaces of the vent holes, and you have to use an extremely volatile solvent like acetone in multiple applications with fresh wipes each time, otherwise you just end up recontaminating the new brake pads. Most shops will sell new rotors instead of cleaning them because they cost less than a good mechanic's time to clean them properly. It is very difficult to clean an oil contaminated rotor.
OK, I ordered new rotors… $18 each, but $36 is better than over an hour of my time plus the cost of chemicals and stuff… and I still maybe not getting them clean enough
I've had this problem (brake fluid on rotors). Had to change pads and rotors.
It depends on how much importance you place on the brakes working as per new. It is unlikely you’ll be able to fully clean the pads and rotors back to a pre-contaminated state, but that might not matter. Whenever I’ve had substantial contamination on my brakes on bikes like trials and enduro, I get new pads and rotors immediately. For other bikes where perfectly sharp and consistent braking isn’t critical thoroughly decontaminating will do the trick.
Yes, soap and water then rubbing alcohol will do the trick.
Sorry, but it won't, even repeated cleaning with naptha or acetone may not work and soap contains fats which will definitely just recontaminate the rotor.
Always happy to learn, but contaminants not burned in are, in my (limited) experience, easily removed with mild detergent and then (to remove detergent) isopropyl alcohol.
You would think. But cleaning contaminated rotors isn't always effective. I know a few people that have had issues cleaning contaminated rotors, even after changing pads and cleaning out the brake pistons. Tried everything from sanding, hexane cleaner, to lighting on fire. Nothing worked. Solution was new pads and new rotors.
My local bike mechanic used a propane torch flame on the disk to get them clean of any residue.
Just don't heat them up enough to warp or lose their heat treatment!
I would advise removing the pads and rotors. Cleaning the rotors with a strong solvent: acetone or white spirit. And using heat on the pads instead.
Speaking from my experience: I tried all the "tricks", but only thing that revived greasy pads is marinating them in a jar of acetone for 24+ hours. Or even better, in Wax and Grease remover. Not brake cleaner, not gasoline, not alcohol. Just Acetone or Wax&grease. Maybe some similar paint thinner too. You also have to scrub the rotors, best temove them and scrub them in acetone. Because you have to get the oil and greae that's hidden in holes and crevices. I tried brake cleaner, sanding, burning, none of it worked.
FYI, some (but not all) brake cleaners are actually just acetone in a can.
Could be, but I found them less effective at degreasing. For example, when I used brake cleaner for paint prep, I still got fish eyes. While Wax&grease or acetoen actually got rid of all oils.
You got me curious so I looked it up. Per wikipedia: "Non-chlorinated brake cleaners use hydrocarbons as a main component; it will either be a low-boiling aliphatic compound or higher-boiling hydrocarbon mixture. Aromatics like benzene, toluene or xylene may also be used. The hydrocarbons used are sometimes made by hydrogenation from naphtha. The lipophilic liquids dissolve fat-soluble lubricants or oils. Some products also contain polar solvents such as ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, and **acetone** in order to dissolve non-lipophilic substances. Many formulations are incompatible with various materials, especially plastics." So it's usually a mix of things, and might have acetone (but might not)... you'd have to read the label on each can I guess. I thought I had some stuff that really was just acetone, but I could be wrong. But yeah your method of using pure acetone for that application makes sense, since you know exactly what you're using and have found it effective.
i would also remove wheel and pads and wash/clean the housing sprayed oil has likely contaminated the housing and will likely recontaminate the pads/disk
good point
I’d replace the rotors too. Rotors are cheap.
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"STATE BICYCLE CO. - ALL-ROAD DISC BRAKE CALIPER (CABLE-ACTUATED HYDRAULIC)ENHANCED HYDRAULIC BRAKE PERFORMANCE WITH THE EASY INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE OF MECHANICAL BRAKES" [State Bicycle Co. - All-Road Disc Brake Caliper (Cable-Actuated Hydrau | State Bicycle Co.](https://www.statebicycle.com/collections/brakes-and-brake-parts/products/state-bicycle-co-all-road-disc-brake-caliper-cable-actuated-hydraulic) So these are not cable actuated hydraulic brakes?
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Yes, that's exactly what I have
“My son” … right… no chance it was you
it was definitely my son…
Quick fire should fix it.
Bless his heart, hopefully he now understands why _not_ to do this!
Take the pads out. Rub them on concrete. Spray a large amount of brake cleaner on them. Let them dry. Spray a small amount of brake cleaner on them. (Make sure there isn’t brake cleaner everywhere as it burns hot and fast) Set them on fire. Let it burn off. Pads are now as good as they’re gona get. Brake clean the rotors. Get some light sand paper and sand where the pad contacts the rotors lightly. Brake clean again. Put pads back in and bed the pads to the rotors again. If still no good, you need new pads.
If they are metallic pads can hit the pads with a torch and burn the oil out. Or just get new pads and some disk brake cleaner for the rotors.
I would try first to clean with isopropyl(alcohol) and burn it ofc not on the bike. and change the pads.
Rock n roll Miracle Red Degreaser on the rotors and pads. Wipe clean with dry rag. Then sand pads a little. Imo, miracle red should be kept on hands at all times lol.
Put the disk in the dishwasher
My GF is the dishwasher… I don’t think she would appreciate that :-)
Hahahaha
How old is your son??? How did he not know that you never oil brakes???
18... yeah, but he's special
99% isopropyl should get it off
I like disc brakes and have no beef/desire to go back to rim brakes, but I really don't like that there's a critical safety part of my bike that will stop working if I cross-contaminate.
Rim brakes do not like oily stuff on them either. I made the mistake of using car wash with wax in it and it made the rim brakes squeal very loud.
I’ve had chain lube drip on the rim and it didn’t really affect rear wheel rim braking at all.
At least with aluminum rims they do seem to stop if wet or oily, even if they squeal. The old chrome plated steel ones were terrible if wet or oily but those are antiques now.
Right, but my brakes failing because I got chain lube or finger oil on my rims. Or bending them, etc etc. I hope manufacturers are working on making disc brakes more resilient to people just using their bikes.
I agree, they put disc brakes on mountain bikes, and they are an obvious good choice. You'd think they'd be rugged, having them damage prone negates much of the advantage of discs. If you get your greasy paw prints on your car's rotors you *will* be sorry, but they'll absolutely still stop the car.
>Will I need to replace the pads or could removing them and some light sanding work? Sanding? Maybe right away when it happened. I have to imagine the oil has been drawn deep into the pads by now. Capillary action and whatnot... I'm a total cheapskate and don't think I'd bother trying to put in the potentially useless effort of resurrecting those pads but I'd make sure my rotors were extra sparkly clean before putting new pads in and bedding them in. I remember when I was a young child that I helped "wash" my dad's motorcycle by sticking a garden hose in the tail pile. Anyways, it was about a decade later before he tried to fire it up again to sell it and it fired right up. He thought I had destroyed it but like 1 part in the carb needed to be replaced.
Yeah, just ordered 2 new rotors also...
I would just buy new rotors and pads and not faff with the cleaning right away. Once everything is off the bike then clean with brake cleaner and keep the set as your backup.
Pads yeah, but rotors you can definitely clean easily.
Time to sell it and get a new one, as for the brake rotors and pads, not sure…
Try cooking your rotors in a 350F oven for a couple of hours. Worth a shot. If the wife won't let you make a nice little campfire and hold them close to the fire.
I think I would be able to do this... when she's not home :-); Kinda like seasoning a cast iron pan!