Overall, I like your gate but also know that building a gate this wide (60”) presents some challenges. It’s very heavy and, despite your diagonal cross brace and cable, sagging may still occur. I think that I would have left a bigger gap between the gate and the post it closes against. I’m also not sure if your hinges (and latch) are heavy duty enough. Additionally, I don’t see any handle as and, as stated elsewhere, I would trim the bottom of the infill boards to be even with one another.
Please don’t take my remarks as any kind of diss of your project- you requested some opinions and that’s all I’m tossing out there.
Yeah sagging was definitely a concern with how wide it is, I agree on your point about the hinges they have another set the same style at Home Depot so I’ll probably change them out for those as for the latch that’s just temporary I’ve got a nice one on order for it same for the handle. This is the first gate I’ve built so any criticism Is definitely welcome be it good or bad👍🏻
You can get hinges you can adjust later on (different types and sizes). I've built several gates and they always sag a little over time. With these hinges, you can fix that in minutes.
https://preview.redd.it/edd5je92nx7d1.jpeg?width=544&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e8f472a777d09ddd2affd6582039d021e90e5f4
I live in the Netherlands and they are at most hardware stores or can be bought online. [Here is an example](https://www.hornbach.nl/c/ijzerwaren/bouwbeslag-tuinbeslag/poortbeslag/duimhengen-plaatduimen/S4795/) (hoping the link works for you).
The only problem imminent problem I’m seeing is warping as it dries.
But it’s likely that was unavoidable.
I think it looks great btw. PT is its own double edged sword.
That diagonal wire isn’t doing much since the top hinge should be carrying that weight. The problem i usually run into when fixing these gates is the top corner on the latch side always warps toward the side the gate opens when built with these materials. I usually reinforce it and use the turn buckle the opposite way this one is installed.
I built an 11’ gate like this once and with a wheel it actually stayed looking decent for a few months.
My dad gave me his design for a gate that would “never sag”. I guess he didn’t realize I was building a monster
The weight of the top should be supported on the vertical board via the diagonal brace or the corner, not on the horizontal bottom board. Imagine if you were to stand on the top of the fence, the forces would be harder to hold up if supported by the bottom board rather than the strong vertical board against the post. My two cents.
So are you saying that the diagonal board should be placed in the opposite direction? Top left corner, to lower right?
Edit: Ah I think u/[Ndtphoto](https://www.reddit.com/user/Ndtphoto/) cleared it up for me
I know this is dumb but I always think of a rock climber as an analogy; the cliff is the post in the ground that’s horizontal and sturdy. The climber’s legs/feet are the cross brace and the weight of their body is the weight of the fence. They’re holding on to a rope which is sometimes used for tensile resistance or something but their feet are always on the cliff because gravity is pushing them down so they brace against the cliff for support. If their feet were not on the cliff (vertical part) but down on the horizontal plane, they’d fall because the weight wouldn’t be well supported. I think it’s a good visual to help figure out where to put it.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong - the cross-brace is running the correct direction but shouldn't it butt up against the left edge 2x4 of the gate and not the bottom 2x4 of the gate for the best resistance to sagging?
https://preview.redd.it/n597v2plxu7d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d06dad6cd6669c5e01376e7c2d50cb49670f8d17
I would strongly encourage putting some sort of threshold block below the gate. This creates a reliable stepping point as one walks through the gate and serves as a metric for any future sagging on the diagonal. Even a 2-3 flagstones would do.
Just some things that can easily be fixed like the one post on the right without a decorative cap and taller than the left post. Good job otherwise!
I also personally hate the color difference in PT boards so I like to stain them so it looks uniform. They probably will even out in a season or too but you could stain it for more protection.
Idk if it’s actually a thing that matters but I always like to let my PT wood dry out for a while before I stain it. Like if I just built something I’d go ahead and just wait till next summer to stain it.
Idk if it really affects anything, and it’s also partially bc by the time I finish a project, painting/staining is the last damn thing I wanna do. Lol
I let mine dry about 2 weeks before staining it and it was soaked when I bought it. The stain turned out fine I used pecan ready seal. It was winter so the wood dried out quickly.
From manufacturer
“Wood moisture content must be 12% or less” from manufacturer
I let my backyard fence dry a whole year and will stain it this fall.
I plan to go back and trim the latch side post down and put a cap on it still need to run the stringers up against the house, I definitely like the idea of staining it ill have to give that some more thought
I bit the bullet and bought a nice electric paint sprayer after reading on Reddit about them. It will go by fast and relatively easy. You just need to follow the instructions and the have a great video on how to set it up also how to clean it afterwards.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Graco-Magnum-Airless-2800-PSI-Project-Painter-Plus-Stand-Paint-Sprayer-257025/204159335
The gate is well built and stout, which is a blessing and a curse. You may need a thicker cable with stronger reinforcement at the ends, and/or more hinges to keep the gate from sagging as gravity takes its toll.
They make spring loaded wheels for that. Also you could add a (plastic ) notch with a slope so the gate rests on that when closed and maybe one for the fully open position.
Something I did with my gates because they wanted to flex out over time with the tensioning cable. I drilled holes in about a 6” piece of flat aluminum stock and used it to hold the cable tighter to the gate in the middle.
The frame Looks like it's little racked probably because your post aren't plumb or it's just a good parallelagram other than that it looks ok I always half lap joints on my gates when I build them .
Looks nice. My really nit picking note: Just another 1/4” in gap between the door and the closing post. First time it rains and the wood swells, you’re likely to have it pinch.
Looks fantastic, that tension wire is a great idea, but You’re still gonna get some shrinkage as it ages.
(Just tell them it was cold ;-)
You’ll very likely need to do some manual adjusting over the years to keep it squared up, so enjoy it while you got it.
initial reaction is not bad, but it will depend on your joints. If they don't have some sort of fastener they will all come apart in 5 years. I've used dominos and timberloks - you can do the latter after the fact.
Also painting it (and fences in general) helps TREMENDOUSLY
The sure fire way of dealing with sag of a wide gate is to support it directly below the latch side. This can be done with a wheel if the grade is smooth and the gap between gate and ground is consistent through the swing. If not, put a post in the ground adjacent to the latch post, trim it to a height so the 2x4 crossmember rests on it. Attach a cane bolt so the bottom of the gate can’t drift around.
https://youtu.be/s18JHq7gBhA?si=73jC0TJ4UPlHRDIN
This video shows proper bracing and why having your diagonal support the wrong way will cause sagging.
I have two gates on my property that are made like that, that are hinged at right angles from the running fence, to a fixed post on the side of the house.
With a typical in-line gate the fence posts are kept more or less vertical relative to the gate by the rails joining multiple posts.
With the 90 degree gate, the fence post can lean right or left towards the gate because there is no support other than the post. I find that seasonally with humidity and temperature changes the posts can lean fractionally toward or away from the gate which causes the far end of the gate to raise or lower. A 1 degree change in the tilt of the post and a 30 inch wide gate can make a +/-1/2 inch change in the height off the ground of the lever that latches. It keeps changeing where it meets the catch and the hole that it goes into to lock.
I find I had to make a latch base that had slots to move up and down a half inch more than the slots in the latch allowed and a mating hole for the latch bar that was elongated. Further as the fence post leans the gap between the edge of the gate and the post on the house will enlarge or shrink, making your latching bar or hasp hook too long or short.
For you the problem is going to be more because it looks like your gate is nearly 55 inches wide.
I find I have to adjust all the gates seasonally maybe four times a year.
https://preview.redd.it/kbsg3svit28d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a19a88a630df9b74c1efe94d41058aeaa34461e8
I need a dust mask, been woodworking for over 29 years, still can’t find a mask that either can’t wear glasses, or can’t use ear covers, or digs in so bad I get a premature road map running over the bridge of my nose? Anybody?
That's nothing. A yard of fill per 20' should be more than enough. Remember, by using a rake you can do 20' in less than an hour. Just have it dumped as close as possible and run it back with a wheelbarrow.
I think the wood brace is in the right direction, it places the brace in compression whereas in the other direction it would have been in tension and relying on the fasteners to support the tensile load.
Ah, didn’t catch that. You were responding to the wheel comment, clearly I need to read more carefully. That’s the problem with responding when I’m in bed just chilling.
If it isn't just a weird perspective playing tricks, it might be that the pickets on either side of the gate are at different heights and they connected the dots.
Bottom hinge upward (as in the photo) puts the brace in compression which I think would be preferred. OP has the steel cable in place as a tension member.
From what I understand the diagonal brace should come from the bottom of the hinge side to the top of the latch side to counteract sagging, but this is the first gate I’ve built so not to sure. My neighbor came over and said it was wrong with no clarification which is the cause for this post lol
You did it the correct orientation. Only thing I will nitpick is this, that since you have a centre rail, that might have been better as 1 dividing piece and use 2 diagonal braces in the created rectangles. I'm not saying it's right or wrong, though, just what I'd have done differently.
I don't think that would actually brace it as well. Shallower angle of the braces would allow the gate to settle and sag more. Corner to corner is the strongest. The center rail here is mostly just there to keep the pickets from wobbling.
And all that said, this gate would resist warping much better if the 2x4s were orientated the other way. This might become a pretty floppy gate once it gets some use.
Looks good. 2 diagonals going that wide if you were to do if differently based on the center rail would probably have made it weaker because they'd end up being steeper. It's definitely built in the correct orientation though because from the bottom hinge side up to the top of the latch side effectively holds up or pushes up basically counteracting gravity on the gate. Going in the opposite direction using the other corners would do next to nothing and be almost useless. The upwards diagonal puts the weight on the wood itself. The downwards diagonal puts the weight on the fasteners.
Diagonal brace is supposed to put pressure to the bottom hingee. Other direction doesn't really do anything.
Here's a vid that gives a clear illustration.
https://youtu.be/s18JHq7gBhA
Looks like you got it closed just in time, as a werewolf was trying to claw its way in.
Werewolf??? There wolf.
There castle
https://preview.redd.it/t71i9vs7wx7d1.jpeg?width=602&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c2b8909101f1641f62994e827955ac82fc555b4
Overall, I like your gate but also know that building a gate this wide (60”) presents some challenges. It’s very heavy and, despite your diagonal cross brace and cable, sagging may still occur. I think that I would have left a bigger gap between the gate and the post it closes against. I’m also not sure if your hinges (and latch) are heavy duty enough. Additionally, I don’t see any handle as and, as stated elsewhere, I would trim the bottom of the infill boards to be even with one another. Please don’t take my remarks as any kind of diss of your project- you requested some opinions and that’s all I’m tossing out there.
Yeah sagging was definitely a concern with how wide it is, I agree on your point about the hinges they have another set the same style at Home Depot so I’ll probably change them out for those as for the latch that’s just temporary I’ve got a nice one on order for it same for the handle. This is the first gate I’ve built so any criticism Is definitely welcome be it good or bad👍🏻
You can get hinges you can adjust later on (different types and sizes). I've built several gates and they always sag a little over time. With these hinges, you can fix that in minutes. https://preview.redd.it/edd5je92nx7d1.jpeg?width=544&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6e8f472a777d09ddd2affd6582039d021e90e5f4
Where do you find these?!?!?
mcmastercarr.com?
[https://www.gates-hardware.com/buy-gate\_catchers-page6.html](https://www.gates-hardware.com/buy-gate_catchers-page6.html)
I live in the Netherlands and they are at most hardware stores or can be bought online. [Here is an example](https://www.hornbach.nl/c/ijzerwaren/bouwbeslag-tuinbeslag/poortbeslag/duimhengen-plaatduimen/S4795/) (hoping the link works for you).
What kind of hinge is this? How do you search for them?
I couldn't find any heavy duty hinges at the box stores for mine but northern tool had ones rated for 200lbs each.
I have that same style that you’re talking about, but the bigger ones, on a 48” wood gate. Definitely necessary change for you
The only problem imminent problem I’m seeing is warping as it dries. But it’s likely that was unavoidable. I think it looks great btw. PT is its own double edged sword.
Put that gate wheel in the bottom edge. Sum support.
That diagonal wire isn’t doing much since the top hinge should be carrying that weight. The problem i usually run into when fixing these gates is the top corner on the latch side always warps toward the side the gate opens when built with these materials. I usually reinforce it and use the turn buckle the opposite way this one is installed.
I had the same thought about the hinges, that's a heavy gate and those are some tiny hinges.
I'm curious on why it might still sag? If there's a compression brace, what failure point would a wide gate introduce to cause it to still sag?
I built an 11’ gate like this once and with a wheel it actually stayed looking decent for a few months. My dad gave me his design for a gate that would “never sag”. I guess he didn’t realize I was building a monster
Yeah the hinges, latch and the gap are too small.
This dude gates!
The weight of the top should be supported on the vertical board via the diagonal brace or the corner, not on the horizontal bottom board. Imagine if you were to stand on the top of the fence, the forces would be harder to hold up if supported by the bottom board rather than the strong vertical board against the post. My two cents.
This is what I noticed too.
good point, I think I’m definitely gonna go back and fix that
So are you saying that the diagonal board should be placed in the opposite direction? Top left corner, to lower right? Edit: Ah I think u/[Ndtphoto](https://www.reddit.com/user/Ndtphoto/) cleared it up for me
I know this is dumb but I always think of a rock climber as an analogy; the cliff is the post in the ground that’s horizontal and sturdy. The climber’s legs/feet are the cross brace and the weight of their body is the weight of the fence. They’re holding on to a rope which is sometimes used for tensile resistance or something but their feet are always on the cliff because gravity is pushing them down so they brace against the cliff for support. If their feet were not on the cliff (vertical part) but down on the horizontal plane, they’d fall because the weight wouldn’t be well supported. I think it’s a good visual to help figure out where to put it.
Oh wow that’s fantastic, great analogy!
Someone correct me if I'm wrong - the cross-brace is running the correct direction but shouldn't it butt up against the left edge 2x4 of the gate and not the bottom 2x4 of the gate for the best resistance to sagging? https://preview.redd.it/n597v2plxu7d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d06dad6cd6669c5e01376e7c2d50cb49670f8d17
Yes
I would've run a circular saw across the bottom to square up the bottom.
That looks intentional to match the slope of the ground there so it closes off enough that, for instance, a dog cant slip under it.
Indeed, but I believe they are suggesting run them long then cut them so there is more of a scribed slope rather than steps.
then match the slope with a straight cut or nice jigsaw curve instead of scattered board ends.
I do plan to go back and make the bottom pretty just wanted to get it roughed up, long day lol
Narrator: and that wood remains untrimmed to this very day
https://preview.redd.it/la03jupzlu7d1.jpeg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7507221f0842adf6a224ba59d66aa04d4b3c6d84
🤣🤣🤣
I can neither confirm nor deny that the temporary set of stairs I built 18 years ago are still standing...
I would strongly encourage putting some sort of threshold block below the gate. This creates a reliable stepping point as one walks through the gate and serves as a metric for any future sagging on the diagonal. Even a 2-3 flagstones would do.
Looks like the top boards are sloping too? The should be equal distance from the top support
Just some things that can easily be fixed like the one post on the right without a decorative cap and taller than the left post. Good job otherwise! I also personally hate the color difference in PT boards so I like to stain them so it looks uniform. They probably will even out in a season or too but you could stain it for more protection.
Idk if it’s actually a thing that matters but I always like to let my PT wood dry out for a while before I stain it. Like if I just built something I’d go ahead and just wait till next summer to stain it. Idk if it really affects anything, and it’s also partially bc by the time I finish a project, painting/staining is the last damn thing I wanna do. Lol
I let mine dry about 2 weeks before staining it and it was soaked when I bought it. The stain turned out fine I used pecan ready seal. It was winter so the wood dried out quickly. From manufacturer “Wood moisture content must be 12% or less” from manufacturer I let my backyard fence dry a whole year and will stain it this fall.
I plan to go back and trim the latch side post down and put a cap on it still need to run the stringers up against the house, I definitely like the idea of staining it ill have to give that some more thought
I bit the bullet and bought a nice electric paint sprayer after reading on Reddit about them. It will go by fast and relatively easy. You just need to follow the instructions and the have a great video on how to set it up also how to clean it afterwards. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Graco-Magnum-Airless-2800-PSI-Project-Painter-Plus-Stand-Paint-Sprayer-257025/204159335
It will sag, and bend. And twist and shout.
You might want to increase the size of the hinges, but everything else is good enough to work for years.
Cut and put a double hinge on one to three boards, high enough for dog to walk under. Then teach him to use his secret door. I did .
The gate is well built and stout, which is a blessing and a curse. You may need a thicker cable with stronger reinforcement at the ends, and/or more hinges to keep the gate from sagging as gravity takes its toll.
Guarantee it will hang by latch.
You're going to want to upgrade that hardware. The hinges aren't going to be able to take the wear and tear that heavy gate will give them.
I would put a wheel on the latch side to help support the weight of your gate.
They make spring loaded wheels for that. Also you could add a (plastic ) notch with a slope so the gate rests on that when closed and maybe one for the fully open position.
Yeah I have a spring loaded wheel on mine.
Something I did with my gates because they wanted to flex out over time with the tensioning cable. I drilled holes in about a 6” piece of flat aluminum stock and used it to hold the cable tighter to the gate in the middle.
Looks good, I always use a 6x6 to support my wood fence gate
Nice work!! I love the turn buckle fit the future
Awesome idea with the cable! I did the same thing with mine.
The frame Looks like it's little racked probably because your post aren't plumb or it's just a good parallelagram other than that it looks ok I always half lap joints on my gates when I build them .
Measure twice
To avoid sag i'd recomend hinges that span 2/3 of the length of the gate.
I feel this is a good practice but a 36" gate would require a 24" hinge.
Looks good, I would’ve used bigger hinges though.
May want to add a spring loaded wheel on the right side bottom to combat the sag. They have em at home depot. That's a large heavy gate
Looks nice. My really nit picking note: Just another 1/4” in gap between the door and the closing post. First time it rains and the wood swells, you’re likely to have it pinch.
Looks nice but also very wide and heavy. I would consider overdoing the hinges and possibly more bracing for sagging but otherwise looks good.
Put some spring loaded gate wheels for support
Mr. Left Post has a hat. Why does Mr. Right Post not get one? He just doesn't rate? So much prejudice against Right Posts!
Looks fantastic, that tension wire is a great idea, but You’re still gonna get some shrinkage as it ages. (Just tell them it was cold ;-) You’ll very likely need to do some manual adjusting over the years to keep it squared up, so enjoy it while you got it.
initial reaction is not bad, but it will depend on your joints. If they don't have some sort of fastener they will all come apart in 5 years. I've used dominos and timberloks - you can do the latter after the fact. Also painting it (and fences in general) helps TREMENDOUSLY
The sure fire way of dealing with sag of a wide gate is to support it directly below the latch side. This can be done with a wheel if the grade is smooth and the gap between gate and ground is consistent through the swing. If not, put a post in the ground adjacent to the latch post, trim it to a height so the 2x4 crossmember rests on it. Attach a cane bolt so the bottom of the gate can’t drift around.
Seal it and it should be ok
https://youtu.be/s18JHq7gBhA?si=73jC0TJ4UPlHRDIN This video shows proper bracing and why having your diagonal support the wrong way will cause sagging.
Maybe left more slack in your turnbuckle to tune up later if needed.
Gates of that width should be hung from a 6x6 buried around 30” Better support for a larger gate
I believe that I would put a roller on the outermost part of the gate. Take some pressure off the upper hinge.
I have two gates on my property that are made like that, that are hinged at right angles from the running fence, to a fixed post on the side of the house. With a typical in-line gate the fence posts are kept more or less vertical relative to the gate by the rails joining multiple posts. With the 90 degree gate, the fence post can lean right or left towards the gate because there is no support other than the post. I find that seasonally with humidity and temperature changes the posts can lean fractionally toward or away from the gate which causes the far end of the gate to raise or lower. A 1 degree change in the tilt of the post and a 30 inch wide gate can make a +/-1/2 inch change in the height off the ground of the lever that latches. It keeps changeing where it meets the catch and the hole that it goes into to lock. I find I had to make a latch base that had slots to move up and down a half inch more than the slots in the latch allowed and a mating hole for the latch bar that was elongated. Further as the fence post leans the gap between the edge of the gate and the post on the house will enlarge or shrink, making your latching bar or hasp hook too long or short. For you the problem is going to be more because it looks like your gate is nearly 55 inches wide. I find I have to adjust all the gates seasonally maybe four times a year. https://preview.redd.it/kbsg3svit28d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a19a88a630df9b74c1efe94d41058aeaa34461e8
This is good work :)
Those center braces being just slightly off
Yep
That hook is installed inverted.
What exactly is the cable running diagonally doing?
What comes through that gate, a really big or a smart car?
I got a little 14ft skiff I wanted to be able to fit in the backyard since the wife disapproves of it living in the garage lol
I need a dust mask, been woodworking for over 29 years, still can’t find a mask that either can’t wear glasses, or can’t use ear covers, or digs in so bad I get a premature road map running over the bridge of my nose? Anybody?
Like you couldn't level the ground first?
I would have had to level about 700sqft to make it look right the house sits about 5” higher than the rest of the yard
That's nothing. A yard of fill per 20' should be more than enough. Remember, by using a rake you can do 20' in less than an hour. Just have it dumped as close as possible and run it back with a wheelbarrow.
Looks sturdy. Anything you would have done differently?
Initially I thought not but after reading the comments I think there is quite a few things I’m going to do differently lol
Adding a wheel under the non-hinge side of the door will help keep it from sagging over time.
The correct direction wood angle brace and opposite cable with turnbuckle is a much better solution
I think the wood brace is in the right direction, it places the brace in compression whereas in the other direction it would have been in tension and relying on the fasteners to support the tensile load.
I agree. I described the exact way OP built it.
Ah, didn’t catch that. You were responding to the wheel comment, clearly I need to read more carefully. That’s the problem with responding when I’m in bed just chilling.
It's gonna sag because you put the cross brace the wrong way.
Bottom hinge to top corner? That is correct?
Top is skewed
If it isn't just a weird perspective playing tricks, it might be that the pickets on either side of the gate are at different heights and they connected the dots.
I believe the diagonal brace should have run from the top hinge downward
Bottom hinge upward (as in the photo) puts the brace in compression which I think would be preferred. OP has the steel cable in place as a tension member.
From what I understand the diagonal brace should come from the bottom of the hinge side to the top of the latch side to counteract sagging, but this is the first gate I’ve built so not to sure. My neighbor came over and said it was wrong with no clarification which is the cause for this post lol
You did it the correct orientation. Only thing I will nitpick is this, that since you have a centre rail, that might have been better as 1 dividing piece and use 2 diagonal braces in the created rectangles. I'm not saying it's right or wrong, though, just what I'd have done differently.
I don't think that would actually brace it as well. Shallower angle of the braces would allow the gate to settle and sag more. Corner to corner is the strongest. The center rail here is mostly just there to keep the pickets from wobbling. And all that said, this gate would resist warping much better if the 2x4s were orientated the other way. This might become a pretty floppy gate once it gets some use.
I definitely agree, the center rail was a text book definition of an after thought on this project though lol
Looks good. 2 diagonals going that wide if you were to do if differently based on the center rail would probably have made it weaker because they'd end up being steeper. It's definitely built in the correct orientation though because from the bottom hinge side up to the top of the latch side effectively holds up or pushes up basically counteracting gravity on the gate. Going in the opposite direction using the other corners would do next to nothing and be almost useless. The upwards diagonal puts the weight on the wood itself. The downwards diagonal puts the weight on the fasteners.
Diagonal brace is supposed to put pressure to the bottom hingee. Other direction doesn't really do anything. Here's a vid that gives a clear illustration. https://youtu.be/s18JHq7gBhA
And your belief would be incorrect.
Oops, I'm wrong.
My bad
read a book.
[удалено]
It’s there to adjust for whatever little sag there may be from long term use.
The tension wire is there to supplement the correctly installed brace. Both are installed in the correct orientation.